the  Slipnlngira; 


PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


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. 35V/5 

Section 


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in  2017  with  funding  from 
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SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 


SIKHIM  & BHUTAN 


TWENTY-ONE  YEARS  ON  THE 
NORTH-EAST  FRONTIER 


J.  CLAUDE  WHITE,  C.I.E. 


WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS  AND  MAP 


NEW  YORK 

LONGMANS,  GREEN  & CO. 
LONDON  : EDWARD  ARNOLD 


I9°9 

[All  Rights  Reserved ] 


A.  W.  PAUL,  Esq.,  C.I.E. 

TO  WHOM  I OWE  MUCH  FOR  THE 
ASSISTANCE  HE  HAS  ALWAYS 


GIVEN  ME  IN  MY  WORK 


PREFACE 


My  Indian  career  has  extended  to  nearly  thirty-two  years 
of  active  service,  and  of  that  more  than  twenty  years  were 
spent  on  the  North-East  Frontier  in  the  administration, 
as  well  as  the  political  charge,  of  the  little-known  State  of 
Sikhim,  and  latterly  in  political  charge  of  the  even  less- 
known  State  of  Bhutan  and  certain  portions,  including 
Chumbi  and  Gyantse,  of  South-East  Tibet ; and  as  I had 
in  addition  spent  over  a year  in  Khatmandu,  the  capital  of 
Nepal,  I may  lay  claim  to  an  intimate  knowledge  of  this 
Frontier,  which  is  my  excuse  for  putting  my  experiences  in 
print. 

When  I first  visited  Darjeeling  in  1881  I used  to  look 
across  the  valleys  of  the  Rungeet  and  the  Teesta  rivers 
and  long  to  penetrate  into  those  stupendous  mountains 
and  valleys,  with  their  magnificent  forests  and  rivers,  to 
explore  the  everlasting  snows  and  glaciers,  and  to  come 
in  contact  with  their  interesting  people.  An  added  fas- 
cination for  me  was  the  fact  that  beyond  these  mountains 
lay  the  mysterious,  unknown  land  of  Tibet,  about  which 
all  manner  of  things  were  conjured  up  in  my  imagination, 
and  which  I fondly  hoped  I might  some  day  reach. 

The  Fates  were  propitious,  beyond  my  most  sanguine 
expectations,  for  on  the  outbreak  of  the  Sikhim-Tibet 
War  in  1888  I was  sent  as  Assistant  Political  Officer  with 
the  expeditionary  force,  and  on  the  conclusion  of  peace  the 

vii 


PREFACE 

following  year,  I was  offered  the  post  of  Political  Officer  in 
administrative  charge  of  the  State  of  Sikhim.  Naturally 
I gladly  accepted  an  appointment  which  would  give  me  an 
opportunity  of  living  in  a country  I was  so  anxious  to  see 
more  of,  and  I have  never  regretted  my  decision ; although, 
in  consequence  of  the  view  taken  by  the  Government  of 
India  of  my  special  employment  on  the  Frontier,  and  the 
fact  that  I left  the  Public  Works  Department  to  take  up 
this  appointment,  I have  been  a loser  from  a pecuniary 
point  of  view  to  a very  large  extent. 

In  1903,  when  it  was  decided  to  send  a Mission  to  Lhasa, 
I was  appointed  one  of  the  Commissioners,  and  on  the  con- 
clusion of  the  Mission  I was  placed  in  charge  of  our  political 
relations  with  Bhutan,  as  well  as  that  portion  of  Tibet 
which  came  under  the  sphere  of  influence  of  the  Government 
of  India,  in  addition  to  my  political  and  administrative 
work  in  Sikhim. 

Owing  to  the  friendly  relations  which  had  been 
established  by  Mr.  A.  W.  Paul,  and  which  I had  kept  up 
with  Bhutan  ever  since  I came  to  this  part  of  the  country, 
I found  the  Tongsa  Penlop  and  the  Bhutanese  officials 
who  accompanied  us  to  Lhasa  most  anxious  to  make 
friends  with  me,  and  I was  able  to  become  on  very  inti- 
mate terms  with  them,  a circumstance  of  great  advantage 
to  me  later  on. 

My  new  appointment  afforded  many  opportunities  of 
visiting  Bhutan  and  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the 
country  and  its  officials  and  people,  and  through  my 
friendship  with  the  Tongsa  I was  given  many  facilities 
never  before  extended  to  any  European. 

During  those  twenty-one  years  my  duties  took  me  to 
almost  every  corner  of  the  beautiful  mountain  countries  of 
Sikhim  and  Bhutan,  with  their  heterogeneous  population 

viii 


PREFACE 

of'Lepchas,  Bhuteas,  Tibetans,  Bhutanese,  and  Paharias, 
about  the  greater  number  of  whom  very  little  was 
known. 

In  climate  every  variation  was  to  be  found,  from 
arctic  to  subtropical,  with  scenery  unparalleled  anywhere 
in  the  world  for  magnificence  and  grandeur  and  the  bright- 
ness and  softness  of  its  colouring,  the  bold,  snow-clad 
and  desolate  expanses  contrasting  sharply  with  the  rich 
and  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  deep-cut  valleys  close  at 
hand. 

I was  brought  into  close  contact  with  the  people  and 
their  rulers,  whom  the  more  you  know  the^more  you  like, 
in  spite  of  all  their  faults.  During  my  long  sojourn  amongst 
them  I had  an  unique  experience  not  often  met  with  in 
India  in  these  days,  when  officials  are  moved  from  place  to 
place  so  constantly  that  they  learn  nothing  of  the  districts 
they  govern  and  still  less  of  the  people,  who  think  an 
attempt  to  know  their  officials  is  not  worth  while,  as  they 
are  sure  to  be  changed  in  a few  months,  and  the  task  would 
have  to  be  begun  again.  It  is  a grave  mistake  in  the  present 
system  of  government,  and  one  which  is  responsible  for 
much  of  the  unrest  and  anarchy  in  India. 

I have  often  been  urged  by  my  friends  to  write  an 
account  of  my  experiences,  but  as  long  as  I remained  in 
Government  service  I refused,  and  I now,  with  some  reluct- 
ance, have  tried  in  this  book  to  give  a short  account  of 
these  countries  both  geographical  and  historical,  as  well 
as  of  my  personal  experiences  during  my  various  tours, 
and  to  bring  before  my  readers  some  pictures  of  these  two 
most  delightful  countries  ; but  writing  does  not  come  easily 
to  me,  and  I must  crave  my  readers’  indulgence. 

Of  Bhutan  I have  given  the  more  detailed  historical 
account,  as  nothing  of  the  kind  exists,  and  information  on 

ix 


PREFACE 


the  subject  can  only  be  gained  by  research  into  many 
books,  Government  records,  and  old  Tibetan  manuscripts. 
I have  also  given  very  full  accounts  of  my  missions  and 
explorations  in  this  beautiful  and  interesting  country,  in 
the  hope  of  removing  the  stigma  under  which  it  has  for 
so  long  lain — a country  about  which  so  little  is  known, 
and  of  which  as  recently  as  1894  Risley  wrote  in  his  intro- 
duction to  the  “Sikhim  Gazetteer”:  “No  one  wishes  to 
explore  that  tangle  of  jungle-clad  and  fever-stricken  hills, 
infested  with  leeches  and  the  pipsa  fly,  and  offering  no 
compensating  advantage  to  the  most  enterprising  pioneer. 
Adventure  looks  beyond  Bhutan.  Science  passes  it  by 
as  a region  not  sufficiently  characteristic  to  merit  special 
exploration.” 


September,  1909 


J.C.  w. 


CONTENTS 


CHAP. 

I.  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION  AND  GENERAL  FEA- 
TURES OF  THE  STATES  OF  SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 


II.  THE  PEOPLE:  THEIR  MORALS,  RELIGION,  AND  LAN- 
GUAGE 


III.  A SHORT  HISTORY  OF  SIKHIM 


IV.  EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

First  visit  to  Sikhim,  1887.  The  brothers  Khangsa  Dewan 
and  Phodong  Lama,  the  Shoe  Dewan  and  Kazis.  Return  to 
Gangtak  with  the  Entchi  Column,  1888.  First  meeting  with 
Their  Highnesses  the  Maharaja  and  Maharani  of  Sikhim 


V.  MORE  EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

My  appointment  to  Sikhim.  Departure  of  the  Maharaja  to 
Kurseong.  Inspection  of  the  country  with  Phodong  Lama 
and  Shoe  Dewan.  Opening  up  by  means  of  roads  and  bridges. 
Sources  of  revenue.  Mineral  wealth.  Visit  to  Yatung, 
so-called  Trade  Mart 


VI.  MORE  EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

Building  a house.  Lepcha  servants.  Supplies.  A garden 
party.  The  Residency  garden.  Roses  and  lilies.  A wave  of 
colour.  Orchids.  Visit  to  Tumlong.  Worship  of  Kangchen- 
junga.  Lama  dance.  Missionaries.  Difficulties  of  travelling. 
Crossing  the  Teesta  in  flood.  Landslips.  Leeches 


CONTENTS 


CHAP. 

VII.  THE  DELHI  DURBAR  AND  VISIT  OF  THE  CHIEFS  TO 
CALCUTTA  TO  MEET  THEIR  ROYAL  HIGHNESSES 
THE  PRINCE  AND  PRINCESS  OF  WALES 

VIII.  EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SIKHIM 

From  Gangtak  over  the  Giucha-la  to  Ringen.  Loss  of  a coolie. 
Camp  amongst  glaciers  and  moraines.  A snow  leopard.  Alpine 
flowers.  Avalanches  and  ice  caves.  Crossing  a difficult 
gorge.  Lepchas  and  wild  bees.  The  Rungnu.  Sakhyong 


IX.  EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SIKHIM— con- 
tinued 

From  Gangtak  to  the  Zemu  glacier,  Lonak  Valley,  Lachen 
and  Lachung.  Mr.  Hoffmann.  Cloud  effects.  Cane  bridges. 
Hot  springs.  Talung  Monastery  and  its  treasures.  Grazing 
land  and  Tibetan  herdsmen.  Yak  transport.  Locusts.  The 
Sebu  Pass.  Snow-blindness.  Lachung.  Goral-shooting 


X.  EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SIKHIM— con- 
tinued 

Demarcation  of  the  northern  boundary  between  Sikhim  and 
Tibet.  Difficulties  of  transport.  Mountain  sickness.  Survey 
work.  Caught  in  a storm.  Durkey  Sirdar.  Ovis  ammon. 
Photographing  the  glaciers.  A ride  at  21,600  feet.  Evidence 
of  former  size  of  the  glaciers 


XI.  DEPARTURE  FROM  SIKHIM 


XII.  HISTORY  OF  THE  FOUNDING  OF  BHUTAN 

XIII.  MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

From  Gangtak  to  Tashi-cho-jong.  Choice  of  routes.  The 
Natu-la  in  bad  weather.  Deputation  in  the  Chumbi  Valley. 
Entering  Bhutan.  The  Hah-la  and  Meru-la.  Punishment 
for  murder.  Leather  cannon.  Paro.  The  Penlop’s  wives. 
Paro-jong.  Turner’s  description.  Eden’s  description.  Dug- 
gye.  Weeping  cypress  at  Chalimaphe.  The  quarrel  between 
Ugyen  Wang-chuk  and  Aloo  Dorji.  Murder  of  Poonakha 
Jongpen.  Tashi-cho-jong 


CONTENTS 


,CHAP,  PAGE 

XIV.  MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN — continued 

From  Tashi-cho-jong  to  Tongsa-jong.  Simtoka-jong.  Entry 
into  Poonakha.  The  Deb  Raja.  Presentation  of  K.C.I.E. 
Description  of  Poonakha  Fort.  Expedition  to  Norbugang 
and  Talo  Monasteries.  Visit  of  the  Tango  Lama.  So-na-ga- 
sa  the  Zemri-gatchie  of  Turner.  Farewell  visit  to  the  Deb. 
Angdu-phodang.  Death  of  my  dog  Nari.  The  Pele-la. 
Tongsa-jong.  Bad  roads.  Water-power  prayer-wheels. 

The  ceremony  of  blessing  the  rice-fields  137 


XV.  MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN — continued 

From  Tongsa-jong  to  Bya-gha,  Lingzi,  and  Phari.  Hos- 
pitality of  the  Tongsa  and  Tongsa’s  sister  at  Bya-gha.  Old 
monasteries  near  Bya-gha.  Ancient  traditions.  Carvers  and 
carpenters  at  the  Champa  Lhakhang  Monastery.  Regret  at 
leaving  Bya-gha.  Lama  dances.  Farewell  to  Sir  Ugyen. 
Reception  at  Tashi-cho-jong.  Last  interview  with  the  Deb 
Raja.  Ta-tshang  lamas.  Cheri  Monastery.  Magnificent 
scenery.  Incorrect  maps.  Exposure  of  the  dead  to  lammer- 
geiers.  View  of  Tibet  from  the  Ling-shi  Pass.  Break-up  of 
the  Mission  161 


XVI.  AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN  AND  A 
PORTION  OF  TIBET  IN  1906 

From  Gangtak  vii  Dewangiri  to  Tashigong  and  Tashi- 
yangtsi,  and  on  to  Tsekang.  Horse-flies.  Dorunga.  Cypri- 
pedium  Fairianum.  Sudden  rise  of  the  river.  Tigers  near 
the  camp.  Chungkhar.  Borshang  iron-mines.  Tashigong. 

Stick  lac  cultivation.  Suspension  bridges.  Source  of  the 
Dongma-chhu.  Tashi-yangtsi.  Prayer-wheels.  Old  roads. 
Chorten  Kara.  New  flowering  trees  184 


XVII.  AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN  AND  A 
PORTION  OF  TIBET  IN  1906 — continued 

From  Tsekang  to  Lhakhang-jong.  Lhalung  Monastery  and 
Pho-mo-chang-thang  Lake  to  Gyantse.  Crossing  the  Bod-la 
between  Bhutan  and  Tibet.  Riding  yaks.  Welcome  in  Tibet. 
Meeting  with  Sir  Ugyen.  Wild  gooseberries.  Old  gold- 
workings.  Friendliness  of  Tibetans.  Lhakhang-jong.  Tuwa- 
jong.  Dekila,  widow  of  Norbu  Sring.  Lhalung  Monastery. 

Ovis  ammon.  Source  of  the  Nyeru-chhu  197 

xiii 


CONTENTS 


CHAT.  PAGE 

XVIII.  MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

Severe  weather.  Shau.  A frozen  torrent.  Dug-gye-jong. 

A visit  to  Paro  Ta-tshang  Monastery.  Sang-tog-peri.  Paro- 
jong  burnt  down.  Arrival  at  Poonakha.  The  Tongsa’s  band  211 


XIX.  MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN — continued 

Installation  of  Sir  Ugyen  as  Maharaja  of  Bhutan.  Presen- 
tation of  gifts.  Tea  ceremony.  Oath  of  allegiance.  Seal  of  the 
Dharma  Raja.  Chinese  influence  on  the  frontier.  Christmas 
Day.  Feeding  the  poor.  Return  of  escort.  Discussion  of 
State  affairs  with  Maharaja  and  council.  I leave  for  Jaigaon. 

A Takin.  Inspection  of  frontier.  Wild  animals  224 

XX.  BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

Bogle,  1774.  Hamilton,  1775  and  1777.  Turner,  1783.  Pem- 
berton, 1838.  Eden,  1864.  White,  1905.  White,  1907  237 

XXI.  BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN  FROM  1772 

Nepalese  invasion  of  Tibet,  1792.  The  Athara  Duars.  Fric- 
tion with  Bhutan.  Our  occupation  of  the  Bengal  Duars. 
Expedition  against  Bhutan.  Loss  of  guns.  Treaty  of  Rawa 
Pani.  Whole  of  Duars  taken  by  us.  Tongsa  Penlop  accom- 
panies expedition  to  Lhasa.  Sir  Ugyen’s  visit  to  Calcutta. 

Sir  Ugyen  elected  Maharaja  264 

XXII.  FOREIGN  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

China.  Tibet.  Nepal.  Sikhim.  Cooch  Behar  285 

XXIII.  ARTS  AND  INDUSTRIES  OF  SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Chinese  and  Indian  influence.  Metal-work  in  Sikhim. 
Method  of  casting.  Sikhim  knives.  Aniline  dyes.  Weaving 
school  in  Lachung.  Carpet  factory  in  Gangtak.  Apple 
orchards  in  Lachung  and  Chumbi.  Cheese  and  butter  making. 
Bhutan  metal-work.  A wonderful  pan-box.  Beaten  copper 
and  silver  work.  Bells.  Swords  and  daggers.  Weaving. 
Needlework  pictures.  Basket-work.  Influence  of  the  feudal 
system.  Inferiority  of  Tibetan  work.  Wood-carving  in 
Sikhim,  Bhutan,  and  Nepal  294 


xiv 


CONTENTS 


APPENDICES 

I.  THE  LAWS  OF  BHUTAN  301 

II.  THE  LAWS  OF  SIKHIM  AND  MARRIAGE  CUSTOMS  311 

III.  A LIST  OF  SOME  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  ANIMALS  AND 

BIRDS  TO  BE  FOUND  IN  THESE  COUNTRIES,  AND 
THEIR  HABITAT  323 

IV.  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  THE  ART  SPECIMENS  ILLUSTRATED 

IN  CHAPTER  XXIII.  325 

INDEX  327 


xv 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING 

PAGE 

J.  Claude  White,  C.I.E.  ( photogravure ) Frontispiece 

The  Source  of  the  Teesta  River  ( photogravure ) 4 

H.H.  The  Maharani  of  Sikhim  22 

The  Residency,  Gangtak  28 

Residency  Garden,  Gangtak  34 

Wallichianum  Lilies  in  the  Residency  Garden  38 

Lower  Teesta  Valley  42 

Group  at  Hastings  House,  Calcutta,  1906  48 

Kangchenjunga  58 

Bamboo  Roadway  60 

Sanklan  Sampo  64 

Old  Vestments,  Talung  Monastery  66 

Siniolchu  photogravure')  68 

Yaks  70 

Upper  Lonak  Valley  photogravure')  72 

Typical  Sikhim  Scenery  80 

Nuns  from  the  Ta-tshang  Nunnery  86 

Lonak  Valley  90 

Glacial  Lake,  Lonak  Valley  photogravure ) 92 

Bridge  over  the  Am-mo-chhu  at  Pema,  in  the  Chumbi  Valley 

photo gr a vure)  108 

Chorten  at  Gorina  Monastery  122. 

Paro-jong  126 

Paro  Ta-tshang  Monastery  128 

Dug-gye-jong  130 

Poonakha-jong  138 

Tongsa-jong  158 

xvii  b 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


FACING 

PAGE 

Bhutanese  Houses  186 

Lhalung  Monastery  198 

Tuwa-jong  202 

Interior  of  Lhalung  Monastery  206 

Interior  of  Dug-gye-jong  212 

Bridge  at  Shana  214 

Paro  Ta-tshang  Monastery  ( photogravure ) 218 

Group  at  Poonakha,  1908  222 

Oath  of  Allegiance  signed  at  Poonakha  at  the  Installation  or  Sir 

Ugyen  Wang-chuk  as  Maharaja  of  Bhutan,  1907  226 

H.H.  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  K.C.I.E.,  Maharaja  of  Bhutan  234 

Impressions  of  Seals  given  to  Bhutan  by  China,  Nepal,  and  Tibet  286 

Art  Specimens — I 294 

Art  Specimens — II  296 

Art  Specimens — III  298 

Art  Specimens — IV  300 

The  illustrations  facing  pages  60,  64,  66,  and  68  by  the  kind  permission  of  Mr.  Hoffmann. 


Map  of  Sikhim  and  Bhutan 


At  end 


AUTHORITIES  CONSULTED 


Tibetan  Manuscript 

The  Lho-cho-jung 

History  of  the  Sindhu  Raja 

Bogle’s  Mission,  1774 

Turner’s  Mission,  1783 

Reports  of  Kishen  Kant,  1815 

Pemberton’s  Mission,  1837 

Griffiths’  Journal,  1837 

Eden’s  Mission,  1864 

Rennie’s  History  of  the  Bhutan  War 

Macgregor’s  Military  Report  on  Bhutan,  1866 

Aitcheson’s  Treaties 

Government  Records 

Sikhim  Gazetteer 


xix 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 


CHAPTER  I 

THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION  AND  GENERAL  FEATURES 
OF  THE  STATES  OF  SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Sikhim  and  Bhutan  are  two  adjoining  countries  covering 
between  them  an  area  of  about  22,000  square  miles,  lying 
to  the  north  and  east  of  Darjeeling,  and  to  the  north  of  the 
British  districts  of  Jalpaiguri,  Goalpara,  and  Kamrup. 
Their  northern  boundary  is  that  portion  of  the  Himalayas 
which  forms  the  watershed  between  the  Tibetan  province 
of  U and  India ; on  the  east  boundary  is  the  State  of 
Tawang,  subject  to  Tibet,  and  on  the  west  that  of  Nepal. 
Both  countries  lie  entirely  in  the  heart  of  the  Himalayas 
between  26°  30'  and  28°  30'  north  latitude  and  88°  o'  and 
92 0 15'  east  longitude. 

The  northern  boundary  of  Bhutan  has  hitherto  been 
defined  by  an  imaginary  line  drawn  eastward  from  Chomo- 
lhari  to  Kulu-Kangri,  but  my  explorations  prove  that 
Bhutan  extends  much  further  to  the  north ; as  far  as  the 
snow  ranges  east  of  Kala-tsho  and  south  of  the  Nelung 
Valley  with  the  Wagya-la  situated  on  the  frontier,  and  in 
my  map  I have  shown  the  correct  boundary. 

The  Chumbi  Valley,  formerly  a part  of  Sikhim,  but  now 
belonging  to  Tibet,  forms  a wedge  which  divides  the  northern 
portion  of  Sikhim  from  Bhutan,  while  Sikhim  itself  lies 
within  the  watershed  of  the  river  Teesta. 

Western  and  Central  Bhutan  may  conveniently  be 
divided  into  three  zones  : 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

(1)  The  outer  or  foot  hills,  adjoining  the  plains  of 
India. 

(2)  The  central  belt  lying  between  these  hills,  and — 

(3)  The  uplands  immediately  under  the  high  snow 
ranges  on  the  Tibetan  frontier. 

The  first  zone  includes  the  whole  of  the  outer  ranges 
for  a depth  of  twenty  to  thirty  miles.  They  rise  sharply 
and  abruptly  out  of  the  plains  and  are  cut  into  deep  valleys 
or  gorges  by  rivers  liable  to  sudden  floods,  sometimes  rising 
40  feet  to  50  feet.  The  annual  rainfall  is  excessive,  from 
200  inches  to  250  inches,  and  the  hill-sides  are  densely 
clothed  with  vegetation,  forests  as  well  as  undergrowth. 
In  this  zone  the  valleys  are  unhealthy  and  very  feverish  in 
the  rainy  season,  hot  and  steamy,  while  the  higher  hills 
rising  in  places  to  an  altitude  of  12,000  feet  are  cold,  wet 
and  misty. 

The  second,  or  central  zone,  consists  mainly  of  valleys 
of  an  elevation  varying  from  3500  feet  to  10,000  feet 
which,  with  their  dividing  ridges,  extend  northward  behind 
the  first  zone  for  about  forty  miles.  These  valleys  are 
healthy,  comparatively  broad  and  flat,  with  a moderate 
rainfall  and  fairly  well  populated  and  cultivated.  They 
have  not  yet  been  worn  into  the  narrow  gorges  so  notice- 
able in  the  outer  hills,  and  still  bear  evidence  of  their 
glacial  origin  ; the  rise  of  the  rivers  is  moderate,  according 
to  the  marks  on  the  banks  not  more  than  four  feet  to  six 
feet,  and  the  slopes  of  the  mountains  are  much  more  gradual 
and  to  a certain  extent,  cultivated. 

The  third  zone  comprises  the  high  valleys,  of  an  eleva- 
tion of  12,000  feet  to  18,000  feet,  running  down  from  the 
great  northern  barrier  of  snow,  with  snow  ranges  between 
them,  the  peaks  of  which  attain  occasionally  a height  of 
24,000  feet.  These  valleys  are  only  used  for  grazing  in 
the  summer  months,  when  the  hardy  Bhutan  cattle  are 
taken  up  to  12,000  and  14,000  feet  and  yaks  and  sheep 
even  higher. 

This  division  is  particularly  noticeable  in  the  tract 


THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION 

where  the  outer  hills,  rising  to  high  elevations  near  the 
plains,  intercept  the  south-east  monsoon,  and  is  markedly 
exemplified  in  the  valleys  of  Hah,  Paro,  Tashi-cho-jong  and 
Bya-gha  (otherwise  known  as  Pumthang)  in  Bhutan  and  in 
Chumbi. 

But  in  the  deep-cut  valleys  of  the  River  Teesta  in 
Sikhim,  and  the  Lobrak  or  Kuru  River  in  Bhutan,  the 
above  division  does  not  apply.  The  outer  hills  are  lower, 
the  monsoon  current  penetrates  much  further  north, 
through  deep  valleys  which  run  nearly  to  the  foot  of  the 
highest  mountains,  and  consequently  the  wet  zone  extends 
as  far  as  the  snows.  In  the  case  of  the  Teesta  the  elevation 
of  the  valley  a few  miles  from  Kangchen  is  not  more  than 
2400  feet  above  mean  sea  level,  while  the  Lobrak  cuts 
through  the  barrier  of  the  Himalayas,  at  an  elevation  of 
only  10,000  feet.  * 

Sikhim,  owing  to  its  proximity  to  Kangchen junga,  to 
the  fact  that  it  lies  in  the  direct  path  of  the  monsoon  and 
to  the  direction  of  its  valleys,  is  much  the  wettest  portion 
of  the  whole  area,  and  has  a heavy  annual  rainfall,  about 
50  inches  even  in  the  dry  upper  valleys  of  Lachung  and 
Lachen,  increasing  to  about  140  inches  in  other  districts. 

In  eastern  Bhutan  the  rainfall  is  appreciably  less  as  the 
monsoon  current  is  diverted  up  the  Assam  Valley  and  does 
not  strike  the  hills  directly.  Consequently  there  is  a 
diminished  rainfall,  and  the  effect  is  noticeable  in  the 
vegetation  which  is  not  nearly  so  dense. 

These  hill  states  are  drained  : 

Sikhim  by  the  Teesta  and  its  tributaries,  the  chief  of 
which  are  the  Rungeet,  the  Rungnu-chhu  joining  at 
Ringen,  and  the  Lachen  and  Lachung  rivers. 

Bhutan  by  : 

(1)  The  Am-mo-chhu  or  Torsa  draining  the  Chumbi 
Valley ; 

(2)  The  Wang-chhu  or  Raydak  with  its  tributaries  the 
Hah-chhu  and  the  Par-chhu  draining  the  valleys  of  Hah, 
Paro,  and  Tashi-cho-jong; 


3 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

(3)  The  Mo-chhu  or  Sankos,  which  with  its  numerous 
tributaries,  drains  the  valley  of  Poonakha  ; one  branch 
taking  its  rise  on  the  southern  slopes  of  Chomolhari  and 
another  in  the  snows  to  the  east  of  Kala-tsho  ; 

(4)  The  Monass,  by  far  the  largest  river  in  this  part  of 
the  world,  with  two  main  branches  of  which  the  Lobrak 
or  Kuru-chhu  rises  in  Tibet,  its  main  source  being  in 
glaciers  on  the  northern  slopes  of  the  Kulu-Kangri  and  its 
adjacent  snows,  while  the  second,  the  Dongma-chhu,  rises 
in  the  snowy  range  to  the  east  of  Tawang.  Other  tribu- 
taries are  the  Madu-chhu,  running  past  Tongsa  and  the 
Pumthang,  draining  the  Bya-gha  Valley. 

^ I can  best  describe  the  Mountain  System  as  a series  of 
parallel  ranges  running  in  a general  direction  from  north  to 
south,  springing  from  the  vast  snow-range  which  forms  the 
southern  buttress  of  the  great  Tibetan  Plateau.  These 
parallel  ranges  are  again  cut  into  innumerable  smaller 
ranges  forming  a vast  labyrinth  of  valleys  running  in  every 
direction,  while  the  main  ranges,  running  down  to  the 
plains,  divide  the  river  systems  I have  already  mentioned, 
and,  as  they  have  no  distinctive  local  names,  I have 
called  them  after  certain  peaks  or  passes. 

Beginning  from  the  extreme  west  there  is — 

(a)  The  Singli-la  range,  the  crest  of  which  forms  the 
boundary  between  Sikhim  and  Nepal.  This  range  runs 
from  Kangchenjunga  and  on  it  are  the  well-known  and 
often  visited  peaks  of  Sandukphu  and  Phallut,  as  well  as 
the  hill  stations  of  Darjeeling  and  Kurseong.  The  principal 
pass  between  Sikhim  and  Nepal  is  the  Chiabhanjan-la. 

(b)  Further  to  the  east  is  the  Chola  range  descending 
from  Powhunri  to  the  east  of  the  Donkia-la  and  forming 
the  water  parting  between  the  Teesta  and  the  Am-mo-chhu. 
There  are  numerous  passes  on  this  range,  the  most  generally 
used  being  the  Jeylap-la  and  Natu-la,  although,  before  the 
present  roads  were  made,  the  Cho-la  was  much  used,  and  I 
have  crossed  it  myself  as  well  by  four  others,  the  Yak-la, 
the  Sibu-la,  the  Thanka-la  and  another. 

4 


THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION 

(c)  Next  the  Massong-chung-dong  range  which  runs 
down  from  Chomolhari,  past  Hah,  to  Buxa  Duar  in  the 
plains  forming  the  watershed  between  the  Am-mo-chhu  and 
the  Wang-chhu.  The  passes  on  this  range  over  which  I have 
crossed  are  the  Temo-la  above  Phari,  the  Hah-la  on  the 
main  road  through  Central  Bhutan  and  the  Lome-la  on 
the  Paro-Dungna-jong  road,  while  to  the  south  there  are 
many  others. 

(d)  The  Dokyong-la  range,  which,  as  I discovered  in 
1905,  also  runs  down  from  Chomolhari,  is  the  water  parting 
between  the  Wang-chhu  and  the  Mo-chhu.  The  pass  on 
the  main  road  crossing  the  range  is  the  Dokyong-la,  after 
which  I have  called  the  range.  Other  passes  are  the 
Zadu-la  to  the  north  of  the  Dokyong-la,  the  Biafu-la  to  the 
south,  the  Taga-la  and  many  others  as  these  lower  hills  can 
be  easily  crossed  almost  everywhere,  and  paths  are  numerous. 

(e)  The  Black  Mountain  range,  which  divides  the  waters 
of  the  Mo-chhu  from  the  river  system  of  the  Monass,  has 
its  rise  in  the  snows  near  Kulu-Kangri ; and  practically 
divides  Bhutan  into  two  portions  both  administratively 
and  ethnographically.  The  people  to  the  east,  who  origin- 
ally came  from  the  hills  to  the  north-east  of  Assam,  are 
directly  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  while 
on  the  west  they  are  of  almost  pure  Tibetan  origin  and  under 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  Thimboo  Jongpen  and  Paro  Penlop. 
The  main  pass  is  the  Pele-la,  but  there  are  many  others 
both  on  the  north  and  south. 

(f)  The  Tawang  range,  to  the  east  of  the  Monass  river 
system,  which  probably  has  its  origin  in  the  snow  ranges 
to  the  north-east  of  Tawang  and  south-east  of  Dongma- 
chhu.  One  of  its  many  ramifications  forms  the  eastern 
boundary  of  Bhutan  and  ends  in  the  hills  to  the  east  of 
Dewangiri. 

The  minor  ranges,  or  those  which  terminate  before 
reaching  the  plains,  are  too  numerous  to  mention,  but  the 
principal  ones  are  the  Moinam  range  between  the  Teesta 
and  the  Rungeet ; the  Chiu-li-la  dividing  the  Hah-chhu 

5 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

and  the  Pa-chhu  ; the  Bei-la  range  between  Pa-chhu  and 
thelWang-chhu  ; the  Yoto-la  range  which  springs  from  the 
snows  to  the  east  of  Kulu-Kangri,  dividing  the  Madu-chhu 
and  the  Pumthang-chhu ; the  Radung-la  between  the 
Pumthang-chhu  and  Kuru-chhu:;  and  the  Dang-la  range 
springing  from  the  snows  near  the  Kar-chhu  Pass  and 
dividing  the  Kuru-chhu  from  the  Dongma-chhu. 


6 


CHAPTER  II 


THE  PEOPLE:  THEIR  MORALS,  RELIGION 
AND  LANGUAGE 

SIKHIM 

The  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  Sikhim  are  the  Lepchas, 
and  the  language  they  use  is  Lepcha.  Their  origin  is 
doubtful,  as  they  did  not  enter  Sikhim  from  across  the 
Himalayas  or  from  Tibet,  but  are  supposed  to  have  come 
from  the  East  along  the  foot  hills  from  the  direction  of 
Assam  and  Upper  Burmah.  They  bear  little  resemblance 
to  the  Tibetans,  they  are  smaller  and  slighter  in  build  with 
finer  cut  features,  in  many  cases  almost  Jewish,  and  their 
language  is  a distinct  one,  not  a dialect  of  Tibetan.  They 
only  number  about  6000.  They  are  people  of  a mild, 
quiet  and  indolent  disposition,  loving  solitude,  and  their 
homes  are  found  in  the  most  inaccessible  places,  in  the 
midst  of  forests  if  possible,  and  seldom  above  an  elevation 
of  4000  feet.  They  are  also  very  improvident,  living  from 
hand  to  mouth  ; with  abundance  when  the  crops  are  good, 
but  once  the  supply  is  eaten  up  going  often  in  the  direst 
straits,  picking  up  what  they  can  in  the  jungle  till  the 
next  crop  ripens.  They  are  great  nature  lovers  and  good 
entomologists  and  botanists,  and  have  their  own  names 
for  every  animal,  insect  and  plant,  and  are,  I should  think, 
unequalled  anywhere  as  collectors.  They  make  most 
excellent  and  trustworthy  servants  and  are  a quite  ex- 
ceptional people,  amongst  whom  it  is  a pleasure  to  live. 
I speak  from  a very  intimate  knowledge  of  their  ways  and 

7 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

habits  after  having  spent  a very  happy  twenty  years  amongst 
them  with  friends  in  every  degree,  from  the  Maharaja 
himself  to  some  of  the  humblest  coolies. 

They  now  profess  Buddhism  and  are  generally  very 
devotional,  although  they  originally  worshipped  the  spirits 
of  the  mountains,  rivers  and  forests,  a natural  outcome  of 
their  surroundings.  Leading  solitary,  isolated  lives,  every- 
thing would  tend  to  foster  such  beliefs  in  a country  where 
the  mighty  snows  appear  immortal,  the  raging  torrents 
irresistible,  as  though  impelled  by  some  unseen  avenging 
spirit,  combined  with  the  curious  shapes  taken  by  every- 
thing when  veiled  in  grey  mist  and  the  ghostlike  and  awe- 
some forms  to  be  met  in  the  shadows  of  the  damp  dripping 
forests  full  of  phosphorescent  stumps  of  old  trees  scattered 
round  in  strange  contortions,  with  the  accompaniment  of 
the  weird  sound  of  the  wind,  as  it  moans  round  some  pro- 
jecting crag  or  through  some  giant  tree,  and  where  even 
the  melancholy  cry  of  the  birds  is  pitched  in  a minor  key, 
all  must  encourage  such  beliefs  and  leave  a deep  impression 
on  the  character  of  the  people  who  live  amidst  it. 

A few  Lepcha  families  are  to  be  found  in  the  lower 
valleys  of  Western  Bhutan,  and  also  in  Eastern  Nepal, 
where  they  apparently  settled  at  the  time  they  came  to 
Sikhim. 

The  next  race  to  enter  Sikhim,  probably  long  before  the 
time  of  the  accession  of  the  Sikhim  Rajas,  were  the  Bhuteas 
who  are  of  Tibetan  origin  and  who  spread  at  the  same  time 
into  Bhutan.  In  Sikhim  they  number  a little  over  6000 
and  are  more  traders  and  herdsmen  than  agriculturists, 
although  they  cultivate  small  areas  round  their  houses. 
They  are  for  the  most  part  of  good  physique,  big  and 
sturdy  with  a Mongolian  type  of  features,  and  are  not  so 
reserved  or  so  fond  of  isolation  as  the  Lepchas.  Their 
houses  are  substantially  built  at  elevations  always  above 
4000  feet  and  never  in  the  hot  steamy  valleys.  The  whole 
family,  sons  and  sons’  wives,  live  together  under  one  roof 
in  patriarchal  fashion,  instead  of  each  man  having  his  own 

8 


THE  PEOPLE 


house  and  establishment.  Their  religion  is  Buddhism  or 
Lamaism,  and  their  language  is  a dialect  of  Tibetan. 

By  far  the  greater  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  Sikhim, 
however,  are  the  Paharias,  who  number  nearly  50,00a. 
They  have  migrated  from  the  neighbouring  densely  popu- 
lated State  of  Nepal,  and  are  slowly  but  surely  pushing 
their  way  eastward.  They  are  almost  all  Hindus  by 
religion,  with  innumerable  castes,  the  few  exceptions 
being  the  tribes  coming  from  the  north-east  of  Nepal,  who 
still  profess  Buddhism.  They  are  on  the  whole  a steady, 
industrious  and  thrifty  people,  very  pushing,  and  eager  to 
take  up  new  employments,  they  make  excellent  settlers, 
pay  their  rent  regularly,  and  give  no  trouble  in  that  way. 
But  they  require  a strong  hand  over  them,  and  some  of  the 
castes  are  most  litigious  and  quarrelsome.  Many  of  their 
head  men  are  excellent  managers,  thoroughly  to  be  trusted, 
and  will  carry  out  anything  they  undertake  to  do  to  the 
best  of  their  ability.  In  more  than  one  case  I have  known 
Nepalese  settlers  in  Sikhim,  by  dint  of  hard  work  and 
perseverance,  rise  to  important  positions  which  they  have 
successfully  filled,  in  marked  contrast  to  the  Lepchas,  whose 
indolent  temperament  always  acts  as  a deterrent  and 
causes  them  to  be  outdistanced  by  more  energetic  races. 

The  only  plainsmen  from  India  to  be  found  in  Sikhim 
are  a few  Marwaris  and  men  of  the  Bunia  or  shopkeeper 
class,  who  have  come  for  trading  purposes  and  settled  under 
the  protection  of  the  British  Raj  since  the  expedition  of 
1888. 


BHUTAN 

The  population  of  Bhutan,  numbering,  perhaps,  400,000 
may  be  roughly  divided  into  two,  those  living  on  the 
West  and  those  living  on  the  East  of  the  Pele-la. 

The  people  of  the  West  are  for  the  most  part  of  Tibetan 
origin  who  came  into  the  country  centuries  ago.  They  are 
of  the  same  original  stock  as  the  Bhuteas  in  Sikhim,  but 

9 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

have  developed  in  Bhutan  into  a magnificent  race  of  men 
physically.  Why  there  should  be  this  marked  contrast  I 
cannot  say,  it  may  be  due  to  the  difference  in  climate,  but 
there  is  no  comparison  between  the  two,  although  the 
Sikhim  Bhutea  is  a strong  sturdy  fellow  in  his  own  way. 
The  Bhutanese  are  fine,  tall,  well-developed  men  with  an 
open,  honest  cast  of  face,  and  the  women  are  comely,  clean 
and  well-dressed,  and  excellent  housekeepers  and  managers. 
Their  religion  is  Buddhism  and  their  language  a dialect  of 
Tibetan. 

Of  their  morals,  Dr.  Griffiths,  who  accompanied  Pem- 
berton in  1838,  writes  as  follows  : 

“ Of  the  moral  qualities  of  the  Booteahs  it  is  not  in  my 
power  to  give  a pleasing  account.  To  the  lower  orders  I 
am  disposed  to  give  credit  for  much  cheerfulness,  even 
under  their  most  depressed  circumstances,  and  generally 
for  considerable  honesty.  The  only  instances  of  theft 
that  occurred  did  so  on  our  approach  to  the  capital.  How 
strange  that  where  all  that  should  be  good,  and  all  that  is 
great  is  encouraged,  there  is  little  to  be  found  but  sheer 
vice  ; and  how  strange  that  where  good  examples  alone 
should  be  led,  bad  examples  alone  are  followed. 

“To  the  higher  orders  I cannot  attribute  the  pos- 
session of  a single  good  quality.  They  are  utter  strangers 
to  truth  ; they  are  greedy  beggars,  they  are  wholly  familiar 
with  rapacity  and  craftiness  and  the  will  of  working  evil. 
This  censure  applies  only  to  those  with  whom  we  had 
personal  intercourse  ; it  would  be  perhaps  unfair  to  include 
the  Soubahs,  whom  we  saw  only  once  in  such  a flattering 
picture,  but  it  certainly  would  not  be  unreasonable,  and  I 
must  make  one  exception  in  favour  of  Bullumboo,  the 
Soubah  of  Dewangiri,  and  he  was  the  only  man  of  any 
rank  that  we  had  reason  to  be  friendly  towards  and  to 
respect.  In  morale  they  appeared  to  me  to  be  inferior  to 
all  ordinary  hill  tribes,  on  whom  a Booteah  would  look 
with  ineffable  contempt,  and  although  their  houses  are 
generally  better,  and  although  they  actually  have  castles 
10 


THE  PEOPLE 

and  places  called  palaces,  and  although  the  elders  of  the 
land  dress  in  fine  cloths  and  gaudy  silks  and  possess  money, 
ponies,  mules,  and  slaves,  I am  disposed  to  consider  them 
as  inferior  even  to  the  naked  Naga. 

“ They  are  not  even  courageous.  I am  inclined  to 
rank  courage  among  physical  rather  than  moral  qualities, 
yet  it  could  not  be  so  classified  in  the  consideration  of  a 
Booteah  in  whom  other  qualities  are  well  developed.  I 
therefore  consider  it  among  those  other  qualities  which, 
as  I have  said,  are  absent  in  Bootan.  A Booteah  is  a great 
boaster  but  a small  performer.  All  accounts  I heard  of 
their  reputed  courage  were  ludicrous.  . . . Their  courage 
may  therefore  be  written  down  as  entirely  imaginary. 

“ Their  ideas  of  religion  appear  to  be  very  confused, 
religion  with  them  consisting,  as  indeed  it  may  do  among 
other  more  civilised  people,  of  certain  external  forms,  such 
as  counting  beads  and  muttering  sacred  sentences.  The 
people  throughout  are  remarkably  superstitious,  believing 
in  an  innumerable  host  of  spirits.  . . . 

“ Of  any  marriage  ceremonies  I could  not  hear,  but  as 
chastity  would  appear  to  be  unknown,  no  particular  forms 
are  probably  required.  Nor  do  I think  that  there  is  a 
particular  class  of  prostitutes.  We  all  had  opportunities 
of  remarking  the  gross  indelicacy  of  Booteah  women ; of 
this  and  of  their  extreme  amiableness  the  custom  of  poly- 
andry is  a very  sufficient  cause.  So  far  as  I could  see,  there 
is  no  distinction  of  rank  among  Booteah  women,  and  those 
only  are  saved  from  the  performance  of  menial  duties  who 
are  incapacitated  by  sickness  or  age.  . . . 

“ Of  the  social  habits  little  favourable  could  be  said  in 
any  place  where  the  women  are  looked  on  as  inferior  beings 
and  used  as  slaves.  . . . 

“ I need  scarcely  add  that  both  sexes  are,  in  all  their 
habits,  inexpressibly  filthy.  The  women,  in  their  extreme 
indelicacy,  form  a marked  contrast  with  such  other  hill 
tribes  as  I am  acquainted  with.  The  only  use  either  sex 
make  of  water  is  in  the  preparation  of  food  or  of  spirits — 
n 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

no  water  ever  comes  into  contact  with  any  part  of  their 
person  ; they  scarcely  ever  change  their  clothes,  especially 
the  woollen  ones.” 

Eden  formed  much  the  same  opinion  in  1864,  and  I 
cannot  help  thinking  both  writers  were  prejudiced  against 
the  Bhutanese  by  the  treatment  they  received,  for  it  is 
not  possible  for  a whole  race  to  so  completely  change  in 
so  short  a time ; and  in  addition  Bogle  and  Turner’s 
accounts  of  their  experiences  coincide  exactly  with 
mine. 

When  I visited  Bhutan  in  1905,  I certainly  had  more 
and  better  opportunities  of  judging,  and  I found  no  signs 
of  such  a state  of  things.  My  experience  of  the  people 
was  that  they  were  universally  polite,  civil,  and  clean,  and 
during  the  whole  time  I spent  in  the  country,  I only  saw 
one  drunken  man.  I had  every  opportunity  of  judging,  as  I 
entered  numerous  houses  and  temples  in  all  parts  of  the 
country,  and  invariably  found  them  clean  and  tidy  ; in 
many  of  the  houses  the  floors  were  washed  and  polished, 
and  the  refreshments  they  hospitably  pressed  on  me  were 
served  in  spotlessly  clean  dishes. 

The  clothes  of  the  higher  officials  were  always  im- 
maculate, their  brocades  and  silks  fresh  and  unstained  in 
any  way,  and  even  the  coolies  were  a great  contrast  to  the 
usual  Tibetan  or  Darjeeling  coolie.  Therefore  I cannot 
help  thinking  Messrs.  Griffiths  and  Eden  have  exaggerated 
what  they  saw,  and  as  we  know  with  what  discourtesy  they 
were  treated,  it  is  perhaps  not  altogether  unreasonable  for 
them  to  have  seen  only  the  worst  side  of  the  people. 

Neither  do  I consider  the  Bhutanese  an  excessively  idle 
people,  the  amount  of  labour  expended  on  their  irrigation 
channels  alone  dispels  that  idea,  and  their  houses  are  all 
large  and  substantially  built.  And  as  in  the  case  of  Dug-gye- 
jong,  in  the  courtyards  we  found  retainers  busily  occupied 
in  various  trades,  while  the  women  of  the  household  spin 
and  weave  and  make  clothes  for  the  men-folk  in  addition  to 
their  ordinary  duties.  A great  part  of  the  country  is 

12 


THE  PEOPLE 


under  cultivation,  and  they  raise  sufficient  crops  to  support 
the  whole  population,  including  the  lamas,  who  are  a great 
burden  to  the  State. 

We  saw  no  immorality.  They  follow  certain  curious 
customs,  such  as  the  right  of  the  head  man  when  girls 
marry,  but  after  all,  the  same  custom  prevailed  in  Europe 
not  so  many  years  ago  in  the  right  of  the  Seigneur.  But 
even  this  is  being  put  a stop  to  by  the  present  Tongsa. 
The  women  were  open  and  frank  in  their  demeanour,  but 
with  no  trace  of  indelicacy.  The  men  were  cheery  and 
jovial,  always  ready  for  a game  at  quoits,  shooting  at  a 
target  with  arrows,  jumping,  &c.,  at  the  end  of  a day’s 
march  when  we  had  settled  into  camp.  They  are  fond  of 
their  beer,  but  there  is  no  great  harm  in  that,  and  small 
wonder  they  are  thirsty  after  toiling  up  the  hills  with  their 
loads.  I have  drunk  many  a choonga  (bamboo  mug)  full 
of  the  mild  ale  myself  and  been  none  the  worse  for  it. 

Amongst  the  people  of  the  East  who  live  beyond  the 
Pele-la  the  bulk  of  the  population  is  not  of  Tibetan  origin, 
nor  do  they  speak  Tibetan.  I give  a few  words  they  use, 
spelt  phonetically,  which  seem  to  me  different  to  those  of 
Tibetan  derivation.  Garni  = fire,  Nut  = barley,  Mai  = house, 
Tyu  = milk,  Yak  = hand,  Tsoroshai  = come  here.  Their 
origin  is  not  clear,  but  they  are  allied  to  the  people  of 
the  Assam  Valley  and  to  those  living  in  the  hills  to  the 
east  beyond  Bhutan.  They  are  of  a different  type  to 
those  in  the  west,  smaller  in  stature,  the  complexion  is 
darker  and  features  finer  cut,  and  their  dress  is  different. 
They  also  profess  Buddhism,  but  are  not  so  observant  of 
its  customs,  nor  are  there  so  many  monasteries  and 
Lamas  to  be  met  with  as  in  the  other  part  of  Bhutan. 
Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk  estimates  there  are  about  200,000  of 
them. 

The  remaining  inhabitants  are  Paharias,  the  same  as 
those  in  Sikhim,  who  are  creeping  along  the  foot  hills  and 
now  form  a considerable  community  extending  the  whole 
length  of  Bhutan  where  the  outer  hills  join  the  plains  of 
13 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

India.  With  the  exception  of  the  Hindu  Paharias,  Bud- 
dhism is  the  religion  professed  throughout  Bhutan. 

To  my  readers  who  wish  to  study  the  subject  of  Buddhist 
religion  in  this  part  of  the  world  I cannot  give  better  advice 
than  to  read  Waddell’s  “ Lamaism,”  as  I have  no  intention 
of  entering  deeply  into  it,  and  will  content  myself  by  saying 
that  in  both  Sikhim  and  Bhutan  the  religion  is  an  offshoot 
of  Buddhism,  and  was  introduced  into  these  countries  from 
Tibet  by  lamas  from  different  monasteries  who  travelled 
south  and  converted  the  people.  Most  of  the  tenets  of 
Buddha  have  been  set  aside,  and  those  retained  are  lost 
in  a mass  of  ritual,  so  nothing  remains  of  the  original 
religion  but  the  name.  The  form  of  worship  has  a curious 
resemblance  in  many  particulars  to  that  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church.  On  any  of  their  high  holy  days  the 
intoning  of  the  Chief  Lama  conducting  the  service,  the 
responses  chanted  by  the  choir,  sometimes  voices  alone, 
sometimes  to  the  accompaniment  of  instruments,  where 
the  deep  note  of  the  large  trumpet  strangely  resembles  the 
roll  of  an  organ,  the  ringing  of  bells,  burning  of  incense, 
the  prostrations  before  the  altar,  the  telling  of  beads  and 
burning  of  candles,  the  processions  of  priests  in  gorgeous 
vestments,  and  even  the  magnificent  altars  surmounted  by 
images  and  decorated  with  gold  and  silver  vessels,  with 
lamps  burning  before  them,  even  the  side  chapels  with  the 
smaller  shrines  where  lights  burn  day  and  night,  add  to 
the  feeling  that  one  is  present  at  some  high  festival  in  a 
Roman  Catholic  place  of  worship.  I have  been  present  at 
the  services  on  feast  days  in  the  temples  in  Sikhim,  Bhutan 
and  in  Lhasa,  and  no  great  stretch  of  imagination  was 
required  to  imagine  myself  in  a Catholic  Cathedral  in 
France  or  Spain,  especially  the  latter.  There  is  also  some 
resemblance  in  the  dress  and  vestments  of  the  priests  and 
lamas,  and  even  in  some  of  their  customs.  Many  of  them 
go  entirely  into  seclusion,  and  they  also  have  certain  periods 
of  time  devoted  to  prayer  corresponding  to  a Retreat, 
during  which  they  see  no  one. 

*4 


THE  PEOPLE 

Sikhim  is  not  so  priest-ridden  as  Bhutan  and  Tibet. 
As  a class  the  lamas  are  disliked,  but  also  feared  by  the 
people,  on  account  of  the  belief  that  the  lamas  have  the 
power  to  do  them  harm. 

As  a rule  the  lamas  are  ignorant,  idle  and  useless, 
living  at  the  expense  of  the  country,  which  they  are  surely 
dragging  down. 

This  is  particularly  the  case  in  Bhutan,  where  the  lamas 
are  fed,  clothed  and  housed  at  State  expense,  and  as  their 
numbers  have  steadily  increased,  they  have  become  a very 
heavy  burden  which  cannot  long  be  borne,  and  an  evil 
which  I hope  may  soon  be  curtailed  by  the  method  proposed 
by  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  namely,  the  gradual  reduction 
by  leaving  vacancies,  occurring  through  death  and  other 
causes,  unfilled,  and  the  limitation  of  the  number  admitted 
to  each  monastery. 

There  are,  of  course,  exceptions  to  every  rule,  and  I 
have  met  several  lamas,  notably  the  Phodong  Lama  of 
Sikhim  and  others  like  him,  men  who  were  thoroughly 
capable,  who  acted  up  to  their  principles,  and  whom  I 
thoroughly  respected,  but  I am  sorry  to  say  such  men  were 
few  and  far  between.  The  majority  generally  lead  a worldly 
life  and  only  enter  the  priesthood  as  a lucrative  profession 
and  one  which  entails  no  trouble  to  themselves. 


15 


CHAPTER  III 

A SHORT  HISTORY  OF  SIKHIM 

The  earliest  settlers  in  Sikhim,  or  Dejong — “the  land  of 
rice” — were  the  Lepchas,  who  called  themselves  Rongpa,  or 
dwellers  in  the  valley;  they  seem  to  have  migrated  from 
the  hills  of  Assam,  but  when,  there  is  no  means  of  as- 
certaining. At  all  events,  they  were  in  Sikhim  as  early  as 
the  thirteenth  century.  The  present  ruling  family  are  of 
Tibeto-Chinese  origin  and  came  from  Kham-Mina-Andong, 
a small  principality  taken  by  the  Chinese  about  1732  where 
their  ancestor,  the  great-great-grandson  of  the  Tibetan 
King  of  Tibet — Ti-son-desen  (a.d.  730)  founded  a small 
kingdom.  Various  scions  of  the  family  found  their  way 
back  to  Tibet,  where  they  rose  to  high  positions.  Coming 
to  more  recent  times,  one  of  their  descendants,  Khye- 
Bumsu  (stronger  than  10,000)  was  so  strong  that  unaided 
he  set  up  the  four  immense  pillars  of  the  great  Sakya 
Monastery  ; he  migrated  to  Ha,  where  he  overpowered  the 
Titan  robbers  of  that  district  and  is  worshipped  for  his 
prowess  to  this  day.  His  children  crossed  over  to  Sikhim 
and  settled  at  Gangtak. 

In  1641  a.d.  the  Lhasan  Lama,  with  the  aid  of  two  other 
saints,  converted  the  Sikhim  people  to  the  Buddhist  faith 
and  appointed  Penchoo  Namgyel  to  be  the  first  Gyalpo  or 
King.  Thotup  Namgyel,  the  present  ruler,  is  the  ninth. 

In  the  time  of  the  third  Gyalpo — Chador  Namgye — 
Sikhim  was  overrun  by  the  Bhutanese  under  Deb  Naku 
Zidar  (1700  to  1706).  The  Tibetans  drove  them  out  and 

16 


A SHORT  HISTORY  OF  SIKHIM 
Chador,  in  gratitude,  founded  the  great  monastery  of  Pe- 
miongtchi,  the  largest  in  Sikhim,  and  wholly  Tibetan  in 
character.  He  also  designed  an  alphabet  for  the  Lepcha 
language  and  reduced  it  to  writing. 

His  successor,  Gyurma,  was  married  to  a lady  from 
Lhasa,  who  was  so  exceedingly  ugly  that  rather  than  live 
with  her  he  abandoned  his  throne  and  fled  disguised  as  a 
mendicant : in  his  reign  Limbuana,  now  the  eastern 
province  of  Nepal,  was  lost  to  Sikhim. 

In  the  time  of  the  sixth  Gyalpo — Tenzing  Namgyel — 
(1780  to  1790),  the  Gurkhas  rose  and  overcame  the  Newars 
and  Limbus  in  Nepaul,  and  in  1788  to  1789  invaded  Sikhim 
and  seized  Rubdentze : Tenzing  and  his  son  Chophey 
Namgyel  fled  to  Tibet  for  help.  Luckily  the  Gurkhas  in 
1791  made  war  with  Tibet  and  sacked  Tashelhunpo,  but 
were  in  the  following  year  defeated  by  the  Chinese  and 
had  to  make  an  ignominious  treaty.  Sikhim  got  back  a 
small  portion  of  her  State,  but  was  obliged  to  pay  the 
Gurkhas  tribute  to  Nepal  until  1815,  when  the  latter  were 
defeated  and  driven  out  by  the  British,  who  in  1817  restored 
West  Sikhim  and  the  Terai  to  the  Raja.  Several  disputes 
between  the  Tibetan  and  Lepcha  factions,  often  ending  in 
bloodshed,  broke  out  from  time  to  time,  causing  dis- 
turbances on  the  Indian  frontier,  until  in  1826  Govern- 
ment had  to  interfere,  and  in  1828  Captain  Lloyd  was  sent 
to  settle  matters  and  reported  the  excellent  prospects 
Darjeeling  held  out  as  a sanatorium.  In  1834-35  another 
internecine  strife  broke  out,  and  Captain  Lloyd  interfered 
and  obtained  a grant  of  a strip  of  territory  running  from 
Darjeeling  to  the  plains.  In  1849,  after  Drs.  Hooker  and 
Campbell  had  been  maltreated  while  travelling  in  Sikhim, 
the  Terai  and  more  territory  was  seized,  and  finally,  after 
a military  expedition  to  Tumlong,  the  capital,  the  treaty 
of  1861  was  enacted,  which  confirms  our  possession  of  the 
present  district. 

Again  troubles  between  the  Tibetan  and  Lepcha  parties 
broke  out  in  1880,  and  Mr.  A.  W.  Paul  was  sent  to  Tumlong, 

17  B 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

and  in  accordance  with  their  own  laws,  persuaded  the 
rival  parties  to  come  to  an  agreement,  which  has  been  kept 
ever  since  ; from  1880  onwards  constant  intercourse  was 
kept  up  and  the  Lepcha  party  learnt  to  rely  for  justice  on 
the  Government  at  Darjeeling.  Unfortunately  in  1886, 
after  sanctioning  the  assembling  of  the  Macaulay  Mission 
to  Tibet  at  Darjeeling,  the  Home  Government  prohibited 
the  Mission  from  moving  a yard  further,  and  the  Tibetans, 
misunderstanding  the  motives  of  such  inaction,  advanced 
into  Sikhim  and  erected  a fort  at  Lingtu  within  Sikhim 
land,  and  actually  in  sight  of  Darjeeling : if  the  Macaulay 
Mission  had  been  allowed  to  advance  even  as  far  as  the 
Jelep  frontier,  in  all  probability  more  friendly  relations 
would  have  been  opened  up  and  all  subsequent  troubles 
avoided.  The  expedition  of  1888,  undertaken  to  punish 
the  Tibetans  for  their  temerity,  brings  the  history  up  to 
the  date  of  my  appointment,  since  which  time  all  relations 
with  neighbouring  States  have  continued  on  a most  friendly 
footing.  The  Lhasa  expedition,  although  its  base  was  in 
Sikhim  and  its  line  of  communications  traversed  the 
country,  had  no  quarrel  with  Sikhim,  and  received  hearty 
co-operation  and  assistance  from  the  Maharaja  and  the 
Sikhim  officials,  and  unless  Tibet  and  China  should  again 
become  aggressive,  I see  no  reason  why  its  peaceful  security 
should  not  continue. 


18 


CHAPTER  IV 
EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

First  visit  to  Sikhim,  1887.  The  brothers  Khangsa  Dewan  and 
Phodong  Lama,  the  Shoe  Dewan  and  Kazis.  Return  to  Gangtalc 
with  the  Entchi  Column,  1888.  First  meeting  with  Their  High- 
nesses the  Maharaja  and  Maharani  of  Sikhim. 

In  the  month  of  November,  1887,  I paid  my  first  visit  to 
Sikhim.  I accompanied  Mr.  Paul,  who  had  been  sent 
from  Darjeeling  to  try  and  induce  the  Maharaja  to  return 
from  Chumbi,  whither  he  had  retreated  some  time  before, 
and  to  spend  more  time  in  his  own  country.  Our  first 
destination  was  Rhenok,  a small  village  only  a couple  of  miles 
beyond  British  territory,  but  in  the  hope  that  we  might  get 
into  direct  communication  with  His  Highness  we  pushed  on 
another  twenty  miles  to  the  capital,  Gangtak,  the  place  I 
later  spent  so  many  years  in.  At  Rhenok  we  left  the 
road,  and  a bad  one  too,  that  had  brought  us  so  far,  and  for 
the  remainder  of  the  distance  had  to  follow  a track  unfit  to 
ride  over  even  on  a mule,  and  had  to  walk  most  of  the  way. 
Our  first  halt  was  at  Pakhyong,  which,  in  the  expedition  the 
following  year,  became  the  headquarters  of  the  Entchi 
Column,  where  the  13th  Rajputs  were  encamped  for 
several  months.  It  is  a pretty  little  spot  lying  just  under 
the  saddle  where  the  road  commences  the  last  descent 
before  the  final  climb  to  Gangtak,  and  the  hillside  was 
covered  with  woods  of  chestnut  and  orchids  in  profusion. 

In  this  camp  I first  saw  the  Kartok  Lama,  a son  of  the 
Khangsa  Dewan,  and  head  of  the  Kartok  Monastery, 

19 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

situated  a few  hundred  feet  above  Pakhyong.  He  was  a 
headstrong  youth,  with  a not  very  good  record,  and  had  to 
be  admonished  for  some  of  his  latest  escapades,  but  he 
took  it  all  in  very  good  part,  and  although  I have  since,  on 
several  occasions,  had  to  talk  very  seriously  to  him,  we 
have  always  been  on  good  terms. 

► On  reaching  Gangtak,  we  pitched  our  tents  on  the  ridge, 
close  to  the  Maharaja’s  palace,  then  covered  with  jungle, 
now  the  site  of  a flourishing  bazaar,  with  post  and  telegraph 
offices,  ddk  bungalow  or  resthouse,  charitable  hospital  and 
dispensary,  and  many  large  and  flourishing  shops,  in- 
cluding that  of  the  State  bankers. 

Mr.  Paul  was  soon  obliged  to  return  to  Darjeeling,  but 
I,  with  a guard  of  Gurkha  police,  remained  for  another 
fortnight,  hoping  the  Maharaja  would  either  return  him- 
self or  send  some  communication,  but  as  he  did  neither 
I also  went  back  to  Darjeeling.  During  the  time  I was  there 
I made  the  acquaintance  of  some  of  the  head  men  and 
notabilities  of  Sikhim  who  came  to  pay  their  respects  and 
to  receive  us  on  our  arrival.  First  were  the  two  brothers, 
the  Khangsa  Dewan  and  Phodong  Lama,  men  of  strong 
individuality  and  character,  to  whose  wisdom  and  good 
sense  Sikhim  owes  much,  as  they  practically  ruled  the 
country  for  years  during  the  prolonged  absences  of  the 
Maharaja  in  Chumbi. 

The  Phodong  Lama,  although  the  younger  brother, 
was  the  ruling  spirit.  He  personally  knew  every  one, 
constantly  travelled  over  the  country  collecting  information 
at  first  hand,  was  ever  ready  to  give  advice  as  well  as 
assistance,  and  though  always  genial  in  his  manner,  was 
unfailingly  strong  and  just  to  all,  and  was  consequently 
universally  liked  and  respected. 

His  elder  brother,  the  Dewan,  was  of  a more  retiring 
nature  and  remained  more  in  the  background,  but  his 
influence  was  equally  felt  and  the  administration  during 
the  absence  of  the  Maharaja  was  carried  on  in  the  joint 
name  of  the  brothers. 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

Next  the  Shoe,  or  Poorbu  Dewan,  one  of  the  most  courtly 
men  I have  ever  met,  a true  gentleman  in  mind  and  manners 
and  a staunch  and  loyal  friend.  In  appearance  he  was 
tall  and  spare,  with  an  unusual  type  of  face  rarely  met  with 
in  these  hills,  with  its  high  cheek  bones  and  rugged  outline 
more  nearly  resembling  that  of  the  Red  Indian.  Behind 
a very  quiet  and  retiring  demeanour  was  hidden  a fund  of 
information  which  made  him  an  excellent  advisor.  Pos- 
sessed also  of  an  unusual  amount  of  tact  and  good  sense, 
he  did  much,  probably  more  than  any  one  else,  towards  the 
welfare  and  advancement  of  the  State,  especially  when  the 
brothers  were  growing  old  and  in  failing  health.  He  was 
a man  looked  up  to  and  respected  by  all  and  whose  advice 
was  eagerly  sought  and  followed.  In  my  own  case  I con- 
sulted him  on  all  sorts  of  questions  and  his  opinion  and 
advice  were  always  to  be  considered  and  respected.  In 
camp  he  was  an  excellent  companion  and  many  and  many 
a pleasant  hour  have  I spent  sitting  by  a camp  fire  talking 
to  him. 

All  three  of  these  men  are  now  dead,  and  the  deaths  of 
the  Phodong  Lama  and  the  Shoe  Dewan  meant  an  irre- 
parable loss  to  Sikhim.  The  younger  generation,  good 
fellows  enough  in  their  way,  are  of  a different  stamp,  and 
there  is  no  one  to  fill  the  places  of  the  older  men.  The 
Phodong  Lama  lived  to  the  age  of  sixty-eight  and  remained 
active  and  at  work  till  within  a comparatively  short  time 
of  his  death,  but  the  Shoe  Dewan  was  cut  off  at  the  early 
age  of  fifty-five. 

Here  also  I first  met  the  old  Gangtak,  Tassithing,  and 
Entchi  Kazis  as  well  as  many  of  the  younger  generation. 
Though  these  Kazis  belonged  to  the  leading  families  who 
had  come  into  the  country  in  the  retinue  of  the  Sikhim 
Rajas,  they  were,  at  the  same  time,  of  very  little  account, 
belonging  to  the  old  school,  not  caring  much  for  anything 
that  went  on  and  given  to  getting  very  drunk ; but  not- 
withstanding they  were  good-natured  and  ready  to  do  any- 
thing that  was  wanted  of  them  to  the  best  of  their  ability. 


21 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

My  return  to  Gangtak  in  the  spring  of  the  following 
year,  1888,  was  under  very  different  circumstances.  Hos- 
tilities had  commenced,  and  on  the  day  the  main  column  of 
our  troops  crossed  the  Jeylap  Pass  into  the  Chumbi  Valley, 
the  second  or  Entchi  column,  to  which  I was  attached, 
made  a night  march  under  Colonel  Michell,  of  the  13th 
Rajputs,  from  Pakhyong  to  Gangtak.  A fallen  tree  across 
the  track  caused  a little  delay,  and  we  arrived  on  the  Gang- 
tak ridge  at  dawn  only  to  find  that  the  Maharaja  and 
Maharani  had  again  fled  to  Chumbi  over  the  Yak-la  road.  I 
was  just  in  time  to  stop  some  of  His  Highness’s  ponies,  and  so 
lately  had  they  gone  their  lamps  were  still  burning  along- 
side their  beds  in  the  Palace,  which,  the  Maharaja  having 
vacated,  was  occupied  by  us,  but  none  of  us  remained  in  it 
very  long.  It  was  infested  by  fleas  and  they  swarmed 
over  us,  rendering  sleep  impossible,  and  as  soon  as  the  sun 
rose  we  removed  ourselves  and  our  bedding  to  our  tents 
until  we  could  build  huts  which  would,  at  any  rate,  be 
clean,  and  would  be  a better  protection  from  the  violent 
spring  hailstorms  than  the  tents. 

The  Maharaja  arrived  in  Chumbi  to  find  his  house 
there  also  in  the  occupation  of  our  troops,  and  he  and  the 
Maharani  were  sent  back  to  live  in  Gangtak,  and  there  I 
met  them  for  the  first  time. 

Thotab  Namgyel,  Maharaja  of  Sikhim,  was  a man  of 
about  twenty-eight  years  of  age,  of  medium  height,  typically 
Mongolian  in  appearance  and  much  disfigured  by  a bad 
hare-lip.  He  was  a man  of  indolent  disposition,  whose 
inclination  was  to  live  in  retirement  and  aloof  from  the 
worries  and  troubles  of  the  government  of  his  little  State, 
of  a very  kindly  disposition,  and  although  weak  and  easily 
led,  possessed  also  a good  deal  of  common  sense.  He  was 
entirely  under  the  influence  of  the  Maharani,  his  second  wife. 

This  lady,  the  daughter  of  a Tibetan  official  in  Lhasa, 
is  a striking  personality.  Small  and  slight,  beautifully 
dressed  in  brocades,  velvets  and  silks,  with  much  jewellery 
of  rough  turquoise,  coral  and  amber,  her  hair  adorned 

22 


H.H.  THE  MAHARANI  OF  SIKHIM 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

with  strings  of  seed  pearls,  which  reached  to  the  hem  of  her 
gown,  and  wearing  the  curious  Tibetan  head-dress  adopted 
by  the  Maharanis  of  Sikhim,  she  was  a most  picturesque 
object,  a harmony  of  gold  and  brilliant  colours  impossible 
to  convey  in  words  and  of  which  the  photograph  only  gives 
a very  inadequate  representation. 

She  is  extremely  bright  and  intelligent  and  has  been 
well  educated,  although  she  will  not  admit  that  she  has 
knowledge  of  any  language  but  Tibetan.  She  talks  well 
on  many  subjects,  which  one  would  hardly  have  credited 
her  with  a knowledge  of,  and  can  write  well.  On  the 
occasion  of  Queen  Victoria’s  diamond  jubilee,  she  personally 
composed  and  engrossed  in  beautiful  Tibetan  characters 
the  address  presented  by  the  Sikhim  Raj,  which  runs  as 
follows  : 

“To  the  most  exalted  and  beautiful  white  lotus 
throne  of  Empress  Victoria — the  incarnate — Sri  Devi — 
the  glorious  Goddess — who  has  been  ruling  and  con- 
ducting the  affairs  of  the  great  Empire,  being  Victorious 
in  every  quarter  of  the  globe  by  the  dint  of  her  ac- 
cumulated virtues  and  merits. 

“ The  Memorial. 

“Gracious  Majesty, 

“ From  the  ocean  of  merits  has  sprung  your 
glorious  self,  whose  fame  has  spread  all  round  the  world 
like  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Your  Majesty’s  reign  in  respect 
of  Government,  defence,  of  light,  and  in  increase  of 
prosperity  has  been  perfect. 

“ It  is  our  fervent  prayer  that  Your  Majesty’s  glorious 
reign  may  with  fame  encompassing  the  world,  extend  to 
many  happy  years  more. 

“This  humble  vassal  being  extremely  happy,  with 
all  his  subjects,  has  been  rejoicing  at  the  Jubilee  of 
Your  Majesty’s  reign,  and  prays  that  Your  Majesty 
shedding  lustre  of  good,  just  and  benign  rule,  shall 

23 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

sit  on  the  throne  for  a hundred  great  periods  of 
time. 

“ With  a pure  white  silk  scarf,  to  represent  the 
sincerity  of  wishes.” 

Her  disposition  is  a masterful  one  and  her  bearing 
always  dignified.  She  has  a great  opinion  of  her  own 
importance,  and  is  the  possessor  of  a sweet  musical  voice, 
into  which  she  can,  when  angry,  introduce  a very  sharp 
intonation.  She  is  always  interesting,  whether  to  look  at 
or  to  listen  to,  and  had  she  been  bom  within  the  sphere  of 
European  politics  she  would  most  certainly  have  made  her 
mark,  for  there  is  no  doubt  she  is  a bom  intriguer  and 
diplomat.  Her  energies  were  unfortunately,  but  naturally, 
owing  to  her  Tibetan  origin,  misdirected  for  many  years, 
until,  finding  out  her  mistake,  she  frankly  confessed  she 
had  been  in  the  wrong,  and  turned  her  thoughts  and 
attention  to  matters  which  should  lead  to  the  welfare  of 
her  husband’s  State.  Her  common  sense  and  clear- 
sightedness were  on  many  occasions  of  the  greatest  assis- 
tance to  me  in  my  task  of  administering  and  developing 
Sikhim,  and  when  I laid  various  schemes  before  her  she 
was  quick  to  see  the  material  advantages  to  be  obtained 
and  gave  her  support  accordingly. 


24 


CHAPTER  V 

MORE  EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

My  appointment  to  Sikhim.  Departure  of  the  Maharaja  to 
Kurseong.  Inspection  of  the  country  with  Phodong  Lama  and 
Shoe  Dewan.  Opening  up  by  means  of  roads  and  bridges. 
Sources  of  revenue.  Mineral  wealth.  Visit  to  Yatung,  so- 
called  Trade  Mart. 

At  the  conclusion  of  hostilities  the  Government  of  India 
made  a proposal  that  I should  remain  in  Sikhim,  with  the 
title  of  Political  Officer,  and  administer  the  affairs  of  the 
State  in  conjunction  with  a Council  composed  of  the  chief 
Dewans,  Lamas  and  Kazis,  and  of  which  I was  to  be 
President.  This  proposal  I accepted  with  some  diffidence, 
as  it  was  an  absolute  change  from  my  own  profession 
(engineering)  and  practically  meant  cutting  myself  adrift 
from  my  service  and  entering  an  altogether  new  line  with 
results  impossible  to  foresee.  But  as  years  passed  I grew  to 
love  the  work,  the  country  and  the  people,  and  I have 
never  regretted  my  decision  to  throw  my  lot  in  with  theirs, 
though  from  a worldly  standpoint  I could  easily  have  done 
better  elsewhere. 

Not  long  after  I had  taken  up  my  new  duties,  Govern- 
ment decided  that  it  would  be  to  the  advantage  of  the 
State  to  remove  the  Maharaja  from  Sikhim  for  a time, 
and  Kurseong,  in  the  Darjeeling  district,  was  proposed  as 
his  residence.  It  was  my  unenviable  task  to  have  to  convey 
these  orders  to  Their  Highnesses,  and  their  reception  of  the 
news  was  most  characteristic.  The  Maharaja  remained 

25 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

silent,  but  the  Maharani  abused  me  roundly,  called  me 
every  name  she  could  think  of,  and  losing  her  temper 
entirely,  got  up,  stamped  on  the  floor  and  finally  turned 
her  back  on  me. 

The  incident,  though  amusing,  was  very  pathetic  at  the 
same  time,  and  I was  heartily  sorry  for  them  both.  They 
had  come  into  opposition  with  the  British  Government, 
and  from  an  exaggerated  idea  of  the  importance  of  Tibet 
and  China,  and  with  no  conception  or  understanding  of  our 
ways,  they  had  run  against  a mighty  power  to  their  hurt 
and  consequent  suffering. 

With  the  departure  of  the  Raja  and  Rani  to  their 
temporary  quarters,  the  task  of  reorganising  the  country 
began  in  earnest.  Chaos  reigned  everywhere,  there  was 
no  revenue  system,  the  Maharaja  taking  what  he  required 
as  he  wanted  it  from  the  people,  those  nearest  the  capital 
having  to  contribute  the  larger  share,  while  those  more 
remote  had  toll  taken  from  them  by  the  local  officials  in  the 
name  of  the  Raja,  though  little  found  its  way  to  him  ; no 
courts  of  justice,  no  police,  no  public  works,  no  education 
for  the  younger  generation.  The  task  before  me  was  a 
difficult  one,  but  very  fascinating ; the  country  was  a new 
one  and  everything  was  in  my  hands. 

The  first  step  was  to  appoint  the  Council,  a measure 
which  had  up  to  now  been  delayed  by  the  Maharaja’s 
attitude,  and  the  following  men  were  selected.  The  two 
brothers,  the  Khangsa  Dewan  and  the  Phodong  Lama,  the 
Shoe  Dewan,  Lari  Pema  (a  lama  from  the  important 
monastery  of  Pemiongtchi),  the  Gangtak,  Tassithing,  Entchi 
and  Rhenok  Kazis.  All  were  of  the  utmost  help  and 
assistance  to  me,  more  especially  the  first  three,  and  during 
the  whole  of  my  time  in  Sikhim  I have  ever  experienced  the 
same  loyal  and  whole-hearted  support  from  the  Council. 

The  coffers  were  empty,  and  the  first  thing  to  be  done 
was  to  devise  some  means  by  which  we  could  raise  a revenue. 
A commencement  was  made  by  roughly  surveying  the 
different  districts  and  assessing  them  at  so  much  per 

26 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

acre,  taking  into  account  the  nature  of  the  soil,  &c.  This 
was  a most  arduous  task  in  a mountainous  country,  covered 
with  dense  undergrowth,  which  made  survey  work  anything 
but  easy  and  necessitated  cutting  lines  in  every  direction. 
It  was,  however,  accomplished  in  five  years,  and  thus  a 
basis  for  taxation  and  revenue  was  established.  At  the 
same  time  the  forests  were  placed  under  control,  excise 
was  introduced,  and  by  these  means  in  about  ten  years  the 
revenue  was  raised  from  Rs.  8000,  or  a little  over  £500  per 
annum,  to  Rs.  2,200,000,  or  about  £150,000.  But  the 
country  was  very  sparsely  populated,  and  in  order  to  bring 
more  land  under  cultivation,  it  was  necessary  to  encourage 
immigration,  and  this  was  done  by  giving  land  on  favour- 
able terms  to  Nepalese,  who,  as  soon  as  they  knew  it  was 
to  be  had,  came  freely  in.  Earlier  in  my  service  I had 
spent  over  a year  in  Nepal  on  special  duty  and  had  learnt 
something  of  the  people  and  their  ways  which  proved  now 
to  be  of  use  in  dealing  with  them. 

During  this  period  I visited  every  corner  of  Sikhim,  even 
the  most  remote,  accompanied  by  the  Shoe  Dewan  and 
the  Phodong  Lama,  and  became  acquainted  with  every 
head  man  and  I might  almost  say  with  every  villager.  I 
never  refused  an  interview  to  any  one,  and  the  people  soon 
realised  that  they  could  freely  bring  before  me  any  grievance 
they  wished  to  ventilate  or  case  that  required  settlement. 
I took  up  the  cases  where  I was  in  camp,  and  unless  of  a 
very  serious  character,  decided  them  then  and  there,  but 
grave  charges,  such  as  murder,  fortunately  extremely  rare, 
or  grievous  hurt,  had  to  be  brought  to  Gangtak  for  trial. 
This  constant  intercourse  with  the  people  gave  me  an  in- 
sight into  their  character  which  otherwise  I should  never 
have  acquired.  Their  hospitality  is  proverbial,  no  Sikhim 
man  or  woman  ever  comes  before  you  without  bringing  a 
small  offering  of  rice,  eggs,  milk  or  fruit,  and  on  my  tours 
at  every  village  I found  a little  shelter  of  branches  and 
green  leaves  erected,  in  which  such  offerings  were  placed 
along  with  chungas  or  bamboo  mugs  of  marwa,  the  native 

27 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

beer,  and  I could  show  no  more  severe  displeasure  with  the 
villagers  than  by  refusing  to  accept  their  hospitality* 
During  this  time  the  Phodong  Lama  and  the  Shoe  Dewan, 
one  of  whom  always  accompanied  me,  became  my  best 
friends,  and  I found  they  were  men  to  whom  I could  turn 
for  advice  as  well  as  assistance  and  for  whom  I had  the 
most  sincere  regard.  Unlike  natives  of  the  plains  of  India, 
with  ideas  on  most  subjects  more  nearly  approaching  our 
own,  these  hill  men  in  reply  to  inquiries  told  you  the  truth, 
and  made  no  attempt  to  find  out  first  what  answer  was 
likely  to  please  you,  and  consequently  it  was  possible  to 
make  friends  and  companions  of  them  in  a way  not  often 
feasible  in  the  case  of  natives. 

The  monasteries  and  the  lamas  were  a great  power  in 
the  land,  but  in  their  case  also  certain  settlements  and 
arrangements  had  to  be  made  with  the  assistance  of  the 
Phodong  Lama,  Chief  Priest  in  Sikhim,  and  Lari  Pema  of 
the  Pemiongtchi  Monastery.  Many  of  the  head  lamas  were 
men  to  be  liked,  and  although  they  were  not  given  entirely 
their  own  way,  their  just  rights  were  carefully  observed, 
and  I have  always  been  supported  by  them  throughout 
my  time  in  Sikhim.  Years  later,  when  I accompanied 
the  Tibet  Mission  to  Lhasa,  the  lamas  of  the  important 
monasteries  of  Sera  and  Debung  sent  me  an  invitation  to 
visit  them,  saying  they  would  be  glad  if  I would  come  as 
they  had  always  heard  from  the  Sikhim  lamas  that  in  my 
dealings  with  them  I had  treated  them  well,  and  this  I 
looked  upon  as  a great  compliment. 

My  readers  will  have  seen  that  when  I first  came  to 
Sikhim  there  were  no  roads,  only  a few  bad  and  difficult 
tracks.  As  the  revenue  increased  and  money  was  available 
this  was  one  of  the  first  improvements  to  be  taken  in  hand, 
and  soon  the  country  was  opened  up  by  a system  of  roads, 
the  torrents  were  bridged,  and  in  a few  years  time  it  was 
possible  to  ride  from  one  end  of  Sikhim  to  the  other.  Later 
on,  before  I left,  it  was  possible  to  cart  goods  from  Siliguri, 
the  terminus  of  the  Northern  Bengal  State  Railway,  64  miles 
28 


THE  RESIDENCY,  GANGTAK. 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

away,  to  the  door  of  the  Residency  at  Gangtak,  and  firewood 
was  being  carted  into  the  Bazaar  from  5 miles  off  on  two 
different  roads,  a very  great  contrast  to  the  earlier  days. 
This  is  all  easy  to  relate  now  that  it  has  been  accomplished, 
but  it  was  uphill  work  and  carried  out  under  many  dis- 
advantages, the  principal  one  the  want  of  money.  As  the 
country  was  opened  out,  more  was  required  in  every  direc- 
tion, more  roads  and  bridges,  buildings,  education,  police,  the 
domestic  expenses  of  His  Highness  and  his  son,  the  Kumar, 
increased,  and  it  was  most  difficult  to  make  both  ends 
meet.  There  was  also  the  imperative  necessity  of  creating 
a reserve  fund  for  unforeseen  contingencies,  and  the  question 
ever  present  was  how  was  money  to  be  found.  In  such 
a mountainous  country  anything  but  the  smallest  land 
tax  is  impossible  to  levy,  and  even  that  is  difficult ; the 
forests  which  might  be  a source  of  wealth  are  too  remote 
and  the  difficulty  of  carriage  of  the  timber  to  the  markets 
is  unsurmountable.  Excise  could  increase  to  a certain 
extent,  but  that  could  not  continue. 

However,  by  the  exercise  of  constant  care  and  economy, 
something  was  accomplished,  and  each  year’s  budget 
showed  an  increase  of  revenue  to  meet  the  increased  ex- 
penditure ; but  Sikhim  distinctly  is,  and  I fear  always  will 
be,  a poor  country,  with  the  problem  ever  before  her  as  to  how 
the  necessary  expenditure  is  to  be  met ; the  upkeep  and 
maintenance  of  the  roads  alone  being  a formidable  item  in 
a country  averaging  140"  rainfall  and  in  some  districts  240". 

Nevertheless,  there  is  another  possible  source  of  revenue 
in  which,  up  to  a year  ago,  I have  in  vain  tried  to  interest 
the  Government  of  India.  That  is  the  store  of  mineral 
wealth  buried  in  the  mountains.  The  difficulties  of  work- 
ing this  were  too  great  for  me  to  attempt.  The  State  had 
no  funds  and  Government  refused  to  allow  the  introduction 
of  foreign  capital.  I approached  them  time  and  again  on 
the  subject,  always  to  be  met  with  the  same  answer,  “ their 
reluctance  to  destroy  the  simplicity  of  an  arcadian  little 
State,”  and  it  was  only  in  1906,  the  year  before  I left,  that 
29 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

I finally  persuaded  them  to  allow  a beginning  to  be  made, 
and  certain  business  firms  were  given  permission  to  send 
prospectors  into  the  country  to  take  up  mining  concessions. 
Had  my  repeated  representations  on  the  subject  been 
listened  to  in  the  earlier  days,  I have  no  doubt  the  mineral 
wealth  of  the  country  would  by  this  time  have  been  con- 
siderable, and  that  by  their  action  Government  has  probably 
retarded  the  progress  of  the  country  by  many  years. 

Iron,  tin,  zinc,  aluminium,  cobalt,  arsenic,  graphite, 
lead,  gold,  and  silver,  all  have  been  found,  while  copper  is 
known  to  exist  in  large  quantities  and  has  been  worked  by 
the  natives  for  years  past  in  a primitive  fashion.  It  has  been 
found  in  places  in  extremely  rich  deposits,  but  these, 
unfortunately,  have  proved  scattered  and  small  in  extent, 
though  there  is  no  doubt  that  there  is  an  enormous  amount, 
and  that  if  some  method  can  be  devised  of  concentrating 
and  collecting  the  ore  from  the  outlying  seams  without 
undue  expense,  a very  large  revenue  should  be  derived 
from  the  royalties  alone,  and  now  that  European  capital 
has  been  allowed  to  undertake  the  task,  I see  no  reason 
why  it  should  not  prove  a success  and  be  a means  of 
placing  the  State  on  a more  easy  financial  basis,  though 
wealthy  it  never  will  and  never  can  be. 

Amongst  the  advantages  of  this  new  departure  will  be 
an  increase  of  European  residents  in  the  country,  with  a 
consequent  greater  circulation  of  money,  a new  field  for 
employment  of  labour,  a greater  demand  for  local  supplies, 
with  the  probability  of  increased  facilities  of  transport 
bringing  new  markets  within  reach  for  the  produce,  and 
greater  still,  though  I fear  not  yet  to  be  realised,  the  utilisa- 
tion of  the  latent  water-power  with  all  its  unforeseen 
possibilities. 

After  the  signing  of  the  Sikhim  Treaty  in  1890,  the 
negotiations  in  respect  of  trade  regulations  continued  to  be 
carried  on  for  some  years,  and  it  was  1894  before  I went  to 
Yatung  to  formally  open  the  Trade  Mart  there.  I crossed 
the  Jey-lap-la  in  April  in  deep  snow,  and  was  met  a little 
30 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

way  further  on,  on  the  Yatung  side  of  the  pass,  by  about 
twenty  Chinese  soldiers  sent  from  the  frontier  to  meet  me. 
They  presented  a gay  appearance  in  their  blue  uniforms, 
with  large  letters  in  black  on  both  back  and  front  of  their 
coats.  A few  of  them  were  armed  with  guns,  but  the  greater 
number  carried  tridents,  flags,  and  other  unusual  things. 

About  one  and  a half  miles  from  Yatung  a tent  was 
pitched  where,  to  conform  to  Chinese  ideas  of  etiquette,  I 
had  to  change  into  my  official  uniform,  and  a little  further 
on  I was  ceremoniously  received  by  the  Chinese  and  Tibetan 
officials  and  conducted  to  a gorgeous  tent  in  which  tea  was 
served.  Mr.  F.  E.  Taylor,  of  the  Imperial  Chinese  Customs 
Service,  was  amongst  those  present  in  Chinese  official  dress. 
The  Chinese  officials  were  the  Popen  or  Frontier  Officer,, 
Wang-yen-Ling,  the  officer  commanding  the  troops,  Tu- 
Hsi-hsun,  and  interpreter,  Yee-Shan,  and  the  Tibetan 
officials,  U.  Depon,  the  Tsedun  Tenzing  Wangpo  and 
Kutzab  Lobzang  Tenzing.  Our  conversation  in  the  tent 
was  limited  to  the  exchange  of  compliments  and  mere 
trivialities,  and  after  resting  a little,  we  proceeded  down 
the  valley  to  the  house  which  was  to  be  my  residence  ; a 
very  gay  procession  with  all  the  umbrellas,  flags,  pikes,, 
&c.,  carried  by  the  followers  of  the  Chinese  officials. 

It  was  my  first  experience  of  the  Chinese  official,  and  I 
have  since  always  found  him  of  the  same  type,  outwardly 
exceedingly  polite  and  punctilious,  but  behind  one’s  back 
deceitful  and  cunning,  intent  on  the  Chinese  policy  of 
delay,  and  most  difficult  to  bring  to  the  point  in  any 
negotiation. 

The  house  placed  at  my  disposal  was  constructed  partly 
on  Chinese  lines  by  Tibetan  artisans ; green  wood  had  been 
employed,  with  the  consequence  that  no  door  would  shut, 
and  I could  look  at  the  view  from  my  bed  through  the 
chinks  in  the  boards  of  the  wall,  which,  as  the  temperature 
registered  about  i8°  of  frost,  was  somewhat  chilly. 

I shall  not  enter  into  a lengthy  description  of  the 
negotiations,  it  will  suffice  to  say  that  I found  the  so-called 
31 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Mart  perfectly  useless  for  the  purpose,  and  that  the  articles 
agreed  to  in  the  Treaty  Regulations  had  not  been  carried  out 
in  any  way.  The  Chinese  had  built  a wall  across  the  valley 
about  one-third  of  a mile  lower  down,  and  posted  sentries 
on  the  gate  and  no  one  was  allowed  to  come  to  the  “ Mart  ” 
to  buy  or  sell  any  goods  whatever.  Extortionate  rents 
were  charged  for  “ shops,”  which  were  nothing  more  than 
hovels,  and  to  crown  all  the  Tibetans  refused  to  acknowledge 
the  Treaty  which  had  been  signed  on  their  behalf  by  the 
Chinese. 

I sent  in  a report  to  Government  and  stayed  on  in 
Yatung  for  about  ten  weeks,  waiting  for  a reply,  and  during 
that  time  I saw  a good  deal  of  both  Chinese  and  Tibetans. 
The  Chinese  are  well-known  sticklers  for  etiquette  and  it 
was  a curious  commentary  on  the  position  that,  as  their 
officials  lived  just  beyond  Pema  in  the  Chumbi  Valley, 
within  Tibet,  I was  not  allowed  to  return  their  ceremonial 
visits.  No  person,  save  Tibetans  or  Chinese,  not  even  Mr. 
Taylor,  himself  a Chinese  official,  was  allowed  to  pass  the 
gateway  in  the  wall.  Even  the  Amban,  when  he  paid  his 
official  call  on  me,  waived  his  right  to  a return  visit.  The 
position  of  the  Chinese  in  Tibet  was  certainly  a very  curious 
one,  or  at  any  rate  made  to  appear  so. 

I was  not  sorry  when  my  stay  came  to  an  end.  There 
was  very  little  to  do  ; I was  not  allowed  to  go  beyond  the 
wall,  and  in  any  other  direction  it  meant  a climb  of  thou- 
sands of  feet.  There  was  a little  Monal  (pheasant)  shooting 
to  be  had,  but  that  was  all.  There  was  no  house  for  Taylor 
to  live  in,  so  on  my  departure  I arranged  he  should  have  the 
use  of  the  one  built  for  me,  and  for  many  years  after  it 
remained  in  the  hands  of  the  Chinese  Customs  Officer. 


32 


CHAPTER  VI 

MORE  EARLY  REMINISCENCES 


Building  a house.  Lepcha  servants.  Supplies.  A garden 
party.  The  Residency  garden.  Roses  and  lilies.  A wave  of 
colour.  Orchids.  Visit  to  Tumlong.  Worship  of  Kangchen- 
junga.  Lama  dance.  Missionaries.  Difficulties  of  travelling. 
Crossing  the  Teesta  in  flood.  Landslips.  Leeches. 

One  of  the  first  things  to  be  done  on  my  appointment  to 
Sikhim  was  to  build  a house,  not  an  easy  task  in  a wild 
country  where  masons  and  carpenters  were  conspicuous 
by  their  absence,  where  stone  for  building  had  to  be  quarried 
from  the  hill-sides  and  trees  cut  down  for  timber.  In  my 
jungle  wanderings  round  Gangtak,  I came  across  a charming 
site  in  the  midst  of  primeval  forest  which  seemed  suitable 
in  every  way,  so  I determined  to  build  on  it,  felling  only  the 
trees  which  might  possibly  endanger  the  safety  of  the  house, 
a necessary  precaution,  as  many  of  them  were  quite  140  feet 
high,  and  in  the  spring  the  thunderstorms,  accompanied  by 
violent  winds,  were  something  terrible  and  wrought  havoc 
everywhere.  By  levelling  the  uneven  ground  and  throwing 
it  out  in  front,  I managed  to  get  sufficient  space  for  the 
house,  with  lawn  and  flower  beds  round  it.  Behind  rose 
a high  mountain,  thickly  wooded,  which  protected  us  from 
the  storms  sweeping  down  from  the  snows  to  the  north- 
east, and  in  front  the  ground  fell  away  with  a magnificent 
view  across  the  valley,  where,  from  behind  the  opposite 
hills,  Kangchenjunga  and  its  surrounding  snows  towered 
up  against  the  clear  sky,  making  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
33  c 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

and  magnificent  sights  to  be  imagined,  and  one  certainly 
not  to  be  surpassed,  if  equalled,  anywhere  in  the  world. 
The  site  selected,  my  real  troubles  began  ; trees  had  to  be 
felled  and  sawn  into  scantlings ; stone  quarried,  lime 
burnt,  and,  most  difficult  of  all,  carpenters  and  masons 
imported.  I was  fortunate  in  my  carpenters,  as  I had 
already  in  my  employment  a Punjaubi,  Moti  Ram  by 
name,  the  best  carpenter  and  carver  I have  ever  come 
across,  and  through  him  I got  other  excellent  men  from  his 
native  village,  but  the  masons  were  distinctly  bad.  They 
seemed  to  find  it  impossible  to  build  a wall  plumb  or  a 
corner  square — faults  that  impressed  themselves  on  us 
later  on,  to  our  cost,  when  the  time  came  for  paper-hanging. 
More  than  that,  too,  owing  to  earthquakes,  faulty  building 
and  heavy  rain,  parts  of  the  anxiously  watched  edifice  came 
down,  and  I began  to  think  my  house  would  never  be 
finished.  But,  in  spite  of  all  difficulties,  at  Christmas  1890 
we  were  able  to  move  in,  about  eighteen  months  after 
commencing  work. 

Next  came  furnishing  and  finding  a staff  of  servants. 
Furniture  had  either  to  be  made  on  the  spot  by  our  Punjaubi 
carpenters  or  imported  from  England ; and  the  neighbouring 
hill-man  caught  and  trained  to  service,  as,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  or  two  old  servants,  no  plains-man  could  be 
induced  to  penetrate  into  such  wilds,  where  they  declared 
there  was  always  war  and  where  they  would  certainly  be 
killed.  One  little  lad,  whom  my  wife  found  carrying 
loads  in  the  early  building  days,  Diboo  by  name,  eventually 
became  head  bearer  and  major-domo  of  the  establishment, 
and  only  left  when  we  went  on  board  at  Bombay  on  our 
final  departure.  He  and  his  comrades,  Paling,  Irung 
and  others,  were  a merry  lot,  full  of  mischief  and  mad 
pranks  and  impossble  to  take  seriously,  for,  after  all,  they 
were  only  lads  of  fourteen  or  fifteen  and  seemingly  much 
younger  when  they  came  to  us  to  learn.  They  were  to  be 
found  in  all  sorts  of  strange  places,  climbing  the  most 
impossible  trees  for  the  sheer  joy  of  seeing  what  they  could 
34 


RESIDENCY  GARDEN,  GANGTAK 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

do,  dancing  war  dances  on  the  roof  of  the  house,  if  by 
chance  a ladder  was  left  within  their  reach  ; and  generally 
on  their  first  appearance  on  promotion  to  the  dining-room, 
going  off  into  suppressed  giggles,  to  be  summarily  dragged 
out  and  cuffed  by  the  older  servants  into  a proper  sense 
of  decorum.  When  a little  later  we  took  them  travel- 
ling in  India,  if  their  railway  carriage  doors  were  locked, 
they  climbed  through  the  windows  as  a matter  of  course, 
or  perhaps  were  found  on  the  engine  hobnobbing  with 
the  driver  and  anxious  to  know  what  made  the  fire 
devil  go. 

Sikhim  was  a place  where  we  had  to  be  entirely  self- 
supporting,  so  cattle  had  to  be  bought  in  order  to  have  our 
own  dairy  for  milk,  butter  and  cheese,  a flock  of  sheep  for 
the  supply  of  mutton,  a poultry-yard,  an  oven  built  and 
baker  engaged  to  bake  bread,  a blacksmith  taught  to  shoe 
the  ponies,  who  otherwise  would  have  to  take  a four  days’ 
walk  to  Darjeeling  every  time  their  shoes  wanted  renewing, 
and  even  our  own  silversmith,  who,  though  he  may  in  one 
way  have  been  a luxury,  was  again  almost  a necessity,  as 
he  had  to  make  various  other  things  in  metals  as  well  as  to 
mend  all  the  numberless  small  things  which  were  always 
getting  broken.  Stores  had  to  be  carried  on  coolies  from 
Darjeeling  or  Siliguri,  sixty  or  seventy  miles,  and  this 
meant  large  supplies  being  arranged  for  beforehand,  as 
transport  often  broke  down,  or  bad  slips  occurred  on  the 
road,  and  we  had  to  be  prepared  for  all  emergencies  and  to 
supplement  other  folks’  commissariat.  Some  funny  epi- 
sodes occurred  in  those  far-away,  early  days.  On  one 
occasion,  Captain  and  Mrs.  P.,  belonging  to  the  detachment 
stationed  in  Gangtak,  came  to  the  Residency  to  beg  for 
some  addition  to  their  monotonous  fare,  and  finding  no  one 
at  home,  went  round  to  the  open  but  barred  storeroom 
window  and  proceeded  with  great  skill  to  fish  out  a tin  of 
provisions.  They  succeeded  with  much  difficulty  in  getting 
hold  of  a Huntley  and  Palmer’s  biscuit  tin,  but  imagine 
their  feelings  when  they  found  it  was  an  empty  box. 

35 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Another  time,  the  medical  officer  with  his  wife  also  arrived 
hungry  on  the  scene,  also  to  find  no  one  at  home,  and  too 
shy  to  order  tea  to  be  made  and  brought  to  the  drawing- 
room where  the  table  was  standing  ready,  sadly  went  back 
to  their  little  hut,  borrowing  from  the  mess,  about  as  badly 
off  for  provisions  as  themselves,  a tin  of  herrings.  The 
herrings  came  up  for  dinner,  but  were  followed  by  a sweet 
omelet  made  by  their  cook  in  the  same  frying  pan  ! This 
couple  lived  in  a two-roomed  hut  built  of  wattle  and  dab, 
and  most  of  the  furniture  was  primitive  to  a degree — four 
sticks  with  a packing-case  top  made  a table,  and  even  their 
bed  was  the  same,  with  newar  or  wide  tape  stretched  across. 
In  the  rains  they  said  the  uprights  sprouted  and  grew 
green  leaves  over  their  heads.  Such  a primitive  state  of 
affairs  seems  almost  impossible  nowadays  when  the  Gangtak 
bazaar  possesses  its  two  or  three  shops  for  the  sale  of 
European  provisions,  beers  and  wines,  and  is  looked  upon 
as  a shopping  centre  by  the  further  outposts  ; but  in  those 
early  days  Gangtak  was  the  furthest  outpost  itself  and  end 
of  all  things,  and  we  had  very  happy,  merry  times  and 
many  little  adventures  and  mishaps  were  the  cause  of  much 
laughter  and  many  jokes. 

My  first  garden  party  would  have  seemed  very  quaint 
to  European  eyes.  I had  invited  the  Maharaja  and 
Maharani,  with  the  members  of  Council,  and  all  the 
Kazis  and  headmen  with  their  wives  and  families.  A 
goodly  crowd  assembled  about  four  hours  before  the 
appointed  time  and  lined  the  road  just  outside  the  Resi- 
dency grounds,  sitting  about  on  the  grassy  edges  until 
they  were  told  they  might  come  in,  determined  not  to  be 
late.  Most  of  them  had  never  seen,  much  less  tasted 
European  sweets  or  cakes,  and  when  tea-time  came  they 
simply  cleaned  the  tables  of  everything,  and  what  they 
could  not  eat  they  carried  away  in  the  front  of  their  volu- 
minous coats.  They  emptied  the  sugar  basins,  and  even 
took  the  spoons  and  liqueur  glasses,  and  it  all  took  place  so 
quietly  while  my  wife  and  I were  with  the  Maharaja  and 

36 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

Maharani  and  the  more  important  guests  in  another  tent, 
I hardly  realised  what  was  going  on. 

The  spoons  and  glasses,  which  I think  they  wanted  as 
mementos  of  the  good  time  they  had  had,  were  returned, 
on  the  Phodong  Lama  and  Shoe  Dewan  remonstrating,  and 
they  departed  very  happily,  declaring  they  had  highly 
enjoyed  their  entertainment,  and  that  all  their  heads  were 
going  round,  a polite  way  of  saying  I had  not  stinted  the 
drinks.  They  were  always  a very  cheerful  crowd  and  very 
pleasant  to  deal  with,  though  indolent  and  improvident. 

After  my  house  was  finished,  nothing  pleased  them  more 
than  to  be  allowed  to  wander  round  the  rooms,  especially 
the  bedrooms.  They  never  touched  anything,  but  liked 
to  see  how  we  lived  and  what  European  furniture  was  like. 

Almost  every  market  day  little  bands  of  women  dressed 
in  their  best  clothes  would  arrive  with  a few  eggs  or  a pat 
of  butter  to  make  their  salaams  to  my  wife  and  a request 
that  they  might  be  allowed  to  go  over  the  house,  and 
their  progress  was  marked  with  exclamations  and  gurgles 
of  laughter  at  the  strange  ways  of  the  Sahib-log. 

While  the  house  was  building,  the  Maharani  came  several 
times  to  see  how  it  was  getting  on,  and  told  me  I had  built 
the  walls  much  too  thin  and  it  would  never  stand.  In  their 
own  houses  and  monasteries  the  walls  are  very  thick,  from 
3 feet  to  4 feet  6 inches,  and  have  always  a small  camber. 
However,  later  on  I had  the  best  of  the  argument  when,  in 
the  earthquake  of  1897,  the  palace,  notwithstanding  its  thick 
walls,  collapsed  entirely  and  had  to  be  rebuilt,  while  the 
Residency,  though  badly  cracked,  remained  standing. 

The  garden  was  a great  joy  and  an  everlasting  source 
of  amusement  and  employment  both  to  my  wife  and  to 
myself,  although  my  wife  did  most  of  the  work  in  it.  The 
soil  was  virgin,  and  with  a little  expense  and  care  almost 
anything  could  be  grown.  It  was  a lovely  garden,  the  lawns 
always  a beautiful  green  even  in  winter,  and  perfectly 
smooth,  with  masses  of  flowers,  the  magnificent  forest  trees 
left  standing  scattered  about  with  clumps  of  feathery 
37 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

bamboos  and  groups  of  tree-ferns  adding  a charm  of  their 
own.  In  early  spring  the  lawns  were  fringed  with  daffo- 
dils, primroses,  polyanthus,  daisies,  pansies — almost  every 
spring  flower  you  can  name,  flowering  in  a profusion 
seldom  seen  in  England,  where  cold  winds  and  frosts  nip 
them  and  keep  them  back ; while  on  the  house  the  wisteria 
was  a cloud  of  delicate  mauve,  with  here  and  there  the 
tender  green  of  early  leaves.  By  the  end  of  April  the 
roses  were  in  full  bloom,  a perfectly  exquisite  sight,  ex- 
celling anything  I have  ever  seen  even  in  England.  The 
house  and  all  the  outbuildings  were  covered  with  them — 
Cloth  of  Gold,  Gloire  de  Dijon,  Reine  Marie  Henriette, 
Devoniensis,  Noisette  and  the  paper  white  rose  throwing 
themselves  wildly  over  the  roofs  and  hanging  great  fes- 
toons of  lovely  blooms  from  every  corner.  Over  the 
lawns  were  scattered  great  bushes  of  Marie  Van  Houtte, 
Gloire  de  Dijon,  Paul  Neron,  Souvenir  de  Malmaison, 
Madame  Lambert,  and  many  more  ; archways  of  Cloth  of 
Gold  and  Devoniensis,  and  in  sheltered  corners,  protected 
from  the  rain,  Marechal  Niel  and  La  France.  These  were 
all  old  favourites,  but  against  the  terraced  slope  from  the 
house  to  the  little  pond  below,  I later  planted  Ramblers 
and  many  new  varieties  I imported  from  France.  A 
great  charm  was  the  rapidity  with  which  things  grew 
in  that  climate  where  a rose  in  its  second  year  became  a 
large  bush.  They  flowered  in  such  profusion,  thousands 
of  blooms  could  be  gathered  without  making  the  smallest 
impression,  and  during  the  summer,  the  gardeners  had 
daily  to  sweep  up  huge  baskets  full  of  fallen  petals  from 
the  lawns.  Perhaps  the  most  beautiful  sight  was  my 
office,  a building  a few  hundred  yards  from  the  house, 
which  was  completely  covered,  roof  and  chimneys  included, 
with  roses,  and  was  a sight  worth  coming  miles  to  see. 
Paul  Nerons  I have  gathered  6J  inches  in  diameter.  Every- 
thing grew  with  the  same  luxuriance.  A stock  in  front  of 
my  study  window  measured  4 feet  6 inches  in  height  and 
3 feet  6 inches  in  diameter,  and  was  a fragrant  mass  of 
38 


WALLICHIANUM  LILIES  IN  THE  RESIDENCY  GARDEN 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

delicate  pink  bloom.  A Lilium  Auratum  grew  to  8 feet  with 
twenty-nine  blossoms  on  a single  stalk  and  the  wild  Lilium 
Gigantiums  in  the  tree-fern  ravine  were  often  12  feet  high. 
The  other  wild  lilies,  Wallichianum  and  Nepalensis,  made 
lovely  groups,  the  Wallichianum  over  6 feet  with  four  or  five 
flowers  on  a stem  and  filling  the  air  with  delicious  perfume. 

As  the  seasons  passed  the  colouring  of  the  garden 
changed.  With  the  early  spring  came  the  white  narcissus 
and  pale  yellow  daffodils  and  primroses  and  lovely  shades 
of  browns  and  yellows  of  the  wallflowers  flowering  under 
the  eaves,  followed  by  the  deeper  colouring  of  polyanthus 
and  pansies  and  great  tufts  of  arums  and  the  delicate 
mauve  and  white  of  schizanthus.  Next,  the  roses,  a flood 
of  pink,  white,  yellow,  and  crimson,  with  deeper  shades  in 
the  petunias  and  stocks  and  blazing  masses  of  brilliant 
colour  from  cactus  and  geraniums  in  the  verandahs  to  be 
followed  by  a wave  of  blue  which  spread  from  the  actual 
lawns  away  up  the  hillside,  iris,  agapanthus,  heliotrope, 
hydrangea  so  covered  with  blossom  hardly  a leaf  could  be 
seen.  This  was  the  time  when  the  lilies  also  were  in  per- 
fection, auratums,  tigers,  wild  ones  from  the  jungle,  all 
scenting  the  air,  as  well  as  English  sweet-peas  and 
mignonette. 

The  blue  flowers  were  followed  in  their  turn  by  deep 
yellows,  orange,  and  scarlet,  orange  lilies,  sunflowers, 
monbretia  and  cannas,  which  here  again  abandoned  their 
ordinary  habit  of  growth  and  were  ten  and  twelve  feet  high 
with  huge  flower  spikes.  As  the  autumn  advanced,  the 
colouring  became  more  subdued,  though  not  less  lovely, 
the  wild  ferns  and  the  foliage  taking  on  exquisite  tints  and 
each  stump  and  tree  trunk  a mass  of  flowering  cymbidiums 
with  their  long,  handsome  racemes  of  lovely  brown  and 
yellow  flowers.  From  one  year’s  end  to  the  other  there 
were  always  flowers,  and  in  the  winter  I have  seen  roses, 
heliotrope  and  mignonette  flowering  under  the  eaves  of  the 
verandah  while  the  lawns  were  covered  with  snow. 

In  the  spring  the  forest  trees  were  white,  as  though 
39 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

snow  had  fallen,  with  blossoms  of  the  Coelogeyne  Cristata, 
the  earliest  orchid  to  flower,  quickly  followed  by  a suc- 
cession throughout  the  year,  too  numerous  to  give  a list 
of,  but  which  included  the  Dendrobium  Densiflorum,  with 
its  heads  of  brilliant  yellow,  the  mauve  sprays  of  D.  Nobile, 
and  later  the  long  hanging  wreaths  of  D.  Hookerianum  and 
so  on  till  one  again  came  round  to  the  autumnal  cym- 
bidiums.  It  was  a garden  in  which  new  treasures  and  new 
beauties  unfolded  themselves  from  day  to  day  and  out  of 
which,  when  we  were  in  Gangtak,  we  never  wished  to 
move. 

My  work  took  me  much  on  tour  and  away  from  Gang- 
tak, and  I have  spent  many  pleasant  days  in  monasteries 
and  had  some  unusual  experiences.  Once,  in  the  early 
days,  at  the  invitation  of  the  Phodong  Lama,  accompanied 
by  Mrs.  White,  I spent  a week  at  Tumlong  to  see  the  Lama 
dance  and  annual  ceremony  of  the  Worship  of  Kangchen- 
junga.  Neither  of  us  had  before  witnessed  the  ceremony, 
which  is  carried  out  in  the  open  air  on  a terrace  in  front 
of  the  Monastery,  with  the  buildings  as  a background,  and 
in  the  centre  of  a crowd  of  gaily  dressed  people  and  lamas. 
We  had  seats  in  a balcony  overlooking  the  terrace  and  had 
an  excellent  view. 

The  dance  is  allegorical,  and  lasts  for  three  days,  the 
different  dances  representing  the  several  phases  of  worship. 
The  story  is  long  and  very  confusing  to  the  ordinary  mind 
and  we  could  only  gather  a very  general  outline  of  its 
meaning.  The  dresses  worn,  especially  at  this  Monastery, 
are  gorgeous,  made  of  the  finest  old  Chinese  brocades,  of 
every  imaginable  colour,  and  kinkob,  resplendent  in  gold 
and  silver.  The  dancing  itself  is  monotonous,  as  there  is 
one  step  only  which  varies  in  the  rapidity  of  the  gyrations 
made  by  each  dancer,  but  perfect  time  is  kept  to  the  weird 
and  rather  monotonous  music  of  the  band  of  lamas  sitting 
on  one  side,  in  their  red  monastic  garb,  playing  on  trumpets, 
flutes  and  drums.  The  dancers  frequently  change  their 
costumes  and  reappear  in  new  characters.  The  masks  worn 
40 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

by  the  performers  are  curious  and  sometimes  very  gro- 
tesque. They  are  carved  out  of  wood  and  painted  to 
represent  animals,  birds,  demons  and  gods  as  well  as  the 
spirits  of  the  dead.  The  whole  dance  is  most  picturesque 
and  interesting  and  a sight  well  worth  seeing,  especially 
when  the  weather  is  fine  and  there  is  a blue  sky  and  brilliant 
sunshine  to  throw  up  the  bright  foliage  and  distant  hills 
and  snow  peaks  in  the  background,  and  as  the  ceremony 
takes  place  in  October  or  November,  after  the  rains  are 
over,  this  is  generally  the  case. 

It  was  at  Tumlong  a missionary  lady  from  China  came 
to  take  up  her  abode  soon  after  I went  to  Sikhim.  The 
Phodong  Lama,  who,  like  most  Buddhists,  was  very 
broad-minded  on  religious  questions,  gave  her  one  of  his 
lama’s  houses  within  the  monastery  grounds,  to  live  in, 
not  thirty  yards  from  the  Gompa,  or  Temple.  I am  sorry 
to  say  she  requited  these  good  offices  in  a very  ungrateful 
manner.  She  had  a small  harmonium,  and  whenever  a 
service  was  being  held  in  the  Gompa  she  immediately 
opened  it  and  played  and  sang  hymns  as  loudly  as  possible, 
which,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  was  in  very  bad  taste.  The 
old  lama,  however,  took  it  all  most  good-naturedly  and 
only  shrugged  his  shoulders  and  said  he  thought  she  could 
not  be  quite  responsible  for  her  actions.  Fortunately  for 
her,  the  people  also  followed  the  lama’s  example  in  treating 
her  with  good-natured  tolerance,  but  such  actions  may, 
and  often  do,  lead  to  serious  consequences  and  give 
Government  officials  much  annoyance  and  many  anxious 
moments. 

My  experience,  which  extends  over  many  years,  leads 
me  more  and  more  to  the  conclusion  that  an  extreme 
amount  of  care  should  be  exercised  in  the  selection  of  men 
or  women  sent  to  foreign  countries  as  missionaries,  not  only 
from  their  own  point  of  view,  for  surely  their  work  would 
produce  infinitely  better  results  if  they  were  possessed  of 
special  qualifications,  but  also  politically,  as  incidents 
such  as  I have  quoted,  only  one  of  many  others,  showing 
41 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

such  utter  want  of  tact,  could  not  then  occur.  History  has 
shown  us  how  dangerous  a volcano  religious  feeling  is,  and 
how  often  terrible  and  far-spreading  disaster  is  the  result 
of  an  unconsidered  action. 

Also  I cannot  help  thinking  it  would  be  a very  great 
advantage  if  different  denominations  could  agree  as  to 
their  several  spheres  of  influence,  instead  of,  as  at  present, 
perhaps  half  a dozen  Roman  Catholic,  Anglican,  Scotch, 
Scandinavian,  Baptist,  and  other  dissenting  churches,  all 
having  delegates  in  one  small  area,  to  the  bewilderment 
and  confusion  of  the  native  mind,  which  cannot  grasp 
the  points  of  divergence.  That  is  a question  which,  I 
think,  deserves  the  attention  of  all  interested  in  Missionary 
work. 

Travelling  in  those  early  days  was  not  easy,  especially 
in  the  rains  when  the  rivers  were  in  flood  and  the  roads  were 
bad,  and  I remember  one  occasion  when  I was  travelling 
to  Darjeeling  with  Mrs.  White  and  we  had  to  cross  the 
Teesta  below  Temi  by  a cane  bridge.  It  was  towards  the 
end  of  the  rains  and  we  came  in  for  one  of  the  last  heavy 
downpours,  the  river  was  in  heavy  flood  and  the  only 
means  of  crossing  was  by  a rickety  cane  suspension  bridge 
350  feet  in  length,  and,  in  consequence  of  the  lateness  of 
the  season,  very  rotten  and  much  sagged  in  the  centre. 
It  was  so  rotten  I was  afraid  it  would  give  way  and  forbid 
any  one  else  crossing  while  my  wife  and  I were  on  it ; half 
the  bamboo  platform  had  disappeared  and  the  suspending 
split  bamboos  were  in  many  places  broken,  but  we  could 
not  stay  in  the  steamy  wet  valley,  a hot-bed  of.  fever,  so 
we  were  obliged  to  make  the  attempt. 

I went  first,  and  leaning  my  weight  on  the  bamboo 
platform  made  the  bamboo  on  which  I was  standing  meet 
the  one  on  which  my  wife  was,  she  then  stepped  on  to  that, 
and  on  the  pressure  being  removed  the  bamboo  swung 
back  again,  leaving  a gap  beneath  which  swirled  the  flooded 
Teesta.  In  this  way  we  eventually  got  safely  across,  but 
it  was  a hazardous  proceeding. 

42 


LOWER  TEESTA  VALLEY 


EARLY  REMINISCENCES 

We  also  had  to  cross  our  ponies,  about  four  or  five  of 
them,  no  easy  task  with  the  river  in  such  heavy  flood,  but 
the  villagers  and  syces  managed  it  successfully.  They 
cut  down  bamboos,  split  them  and  made  a rope  long 
enough  to  reach  from  one  bank  to  the  other.  A very 
strong  headstall  was  put  on  the  horse  and  the  bamboo 
rope  securely  fastened  to  it.  The  other  end  was  held  by 
a number  of  men  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream,  the 
horse  was  driven  into  the  river  and  carried  in  a diagonal 
course  down  stream  to  the  opposite  bank.  It  is  a marvel 
how  it  is  done  when  the  rivers  are  in  flood,  and  the  animals 
have  a poor  time.  More  than  once  I have  seen  nothing 
but  the  legs  of  my  pony  in  mid  stream,  but  it  is  wonderful 
how  they  go  through  it  and  come  out  none  the  worse  on 
the  other  side.  I have  even  crossed  an  Arab  on  several 
occasions,  this  being  one.  Of  course,  if  the  rope  happens 
to  break,  you  see  no  more  of  your  horse.  The  landing  is 
always  difficult  as  it  is  generally  on  rough,  sharp  rocks. 

In  the  rains  there  was  always  the  danger  of  bridges 
being  swept  away  and  of  land  slips.  Once  travelling  from 
Temi  we  found  a huge  landslip  had  occurred,  carried  away 
the  bridge  on  our  road  and  filled  the  gorge  to  a depth  of 
several  hundred  feet  with  liquid  mud.  It  was  nasty  stuff 
to  negotiate,  but  by  placing  several  layers  of  jungle  on  it, 
we  managed  to  cross  on  a precarious  path  that  trembled 
under  us  with  each  step.  On  another  occasion,  on  the 
Lachung  road,  we  had  to  cross  a large  slip  quite  a quarter 
of  a mile  broad.  The  whole  hillside  was  still  moving, 
showers  of  stones  were  coming  down  from  above  at  inter- 
vals, but  as  there  was  no  other  road  by  which  we  could 
reach  Gangtak,  we  had  to  go  on  and  take  advantage  of  a 
lull  in  the  small  avalanches  of  rocks.  It  was  easier  for 
us  than  for  the  mules  and  ponies,  who  became  frightened 
by  the  falling  stones,  and  I nearly  lost  one — a large  rock 
flying  past  its  ears.  But  in  these  hills,  with  their  abnor- 
mally heavy  rainfall,  and  owing  to  the  great  amount  of 
displacement  which  has  occurred  in  their  upheaval  having 
43 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

cracked  the  rocks,  slips  are  very  frequent  and  one  becomes 
used  to  them. 

Another  very  great  drawback  to  travelling  in  the  rains 
at  any  elevation  below  10,000  feet,  are  the  leeches  which 
swarm  on  every  path.  Each  leaf  in  the  jungle  is  fringed 
with  them  and  they  look  almost  like  the  tentacula  of  sea 
anemones  as  they  commence  to  wave  about  in  the  air  at 
the  approach  of  a passer-by  in  the  endeavour  to  fix  on  him — 
indeed  in  some  places  they  are  so  bad  I believe  if  a traveller 
had  the  misfortune  to  meet  with  an  accident  and  be  dis- 
abled he  would  soon  be  bled  to  death. 


44 


CHAPTER  VII 

THE  DELHI  DURBAR  AND  VISIT  OF  THE  CHIEFS  TO 
CALCUTTA  TO  MEET  THEIR  ROYAL  HIGHNESSES  THE 
PRINCE  AND  PRINCESS  OF  WALES 

In  1902  Sikhim  was  aroused  from  its  quiet  sleepy  existence 
by  an  intimation  from  Government  that  His  Excellency 
the  Viceroy  would  send  an  invitation  to  the  Maharaja  to 
be  present  at  the  Imperial  Durbar  to  be  held  at  Delhi  on 
January  1,  1903,  to  celebrate  the  accession  of  His  Majesty 
the  King-Emperor. 

The  Maharaja  accepted  the  invitation,  but  at  the  last 
moment  deputed  his  son  and  heir,  Sidkyong  Tulku,  the 
Maharaj -Kumar,  to  be  his  representative.  I never 
quite  understood  his  reasons,  but  I think  he  was  afraid  of 
venturing  so  far  from  his  own  country,  and  though  he  has 
since  quite  grown  out  of  it,  he  was  at  that  time  still  con- 
scious of  and  very  sensitive  about  his  hare-lip,  which  is  a 
great  disfigurement.  His  lamas  also,  whom  he  consults 
on  every  important  subject,  gave  it  as  their  opinion  that 
he  would  probably  fall  ill  and  at  any  rate  the  result  was 
he  declined  to  go. 

For  many  months  we  were  busily  engaged  in  prepara- 
tions for  the  function.  Ruling  chiefs  were  allotted  camping 
grounds,  but  that  was  all,  and  only  in  the  case  of  minor 
personages  was  anything  more  done.  Most  native  States 
of  course  possess  carriages  and  horses,  elephants,  furniture, 
tents  and  camp  equipage  of  every  kind,  and  it  was  merely 
a case  of  having  these  things  transported  to  Delhi.  But 
45 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

in  addition  to  being  so  far  away,  Sikhim  possessed  none  of 
them,  consequently  they  all  had  to  be  procured,  and  at  the 
same  time,  with  the  small  yearly  revenue,  it  was  necessary  to 
exercise  the  greatest  care  to  keep  the  expenditure  down  to 
the  lowest  possible  sum. 

Our  reception  tents  were  delightfully  picturesque  and 
unusual,  made  after  Tibetan  fashion  with  an  elaborate 
design  in  applique  cloth  of  many  colours  on  the  roofs, 
while  the  sides  were  decorated  with  the  eight  lucky 
signs : The  Wheel  of  Life  ; the  Conch  Shell,  or  Trumpet 
of  Victory  ; the  Umbrella  ; the  Victorious  Banner ; the 
Golden  Fish ; the  Lucky  Diagram ; the  Lotus ; and 
the  Vase  : so  constantly  reproduced  in  Buddhist  orna- 
mentation. 

The  Kumar  took  this  entirely  into  his  own  hands,  drew 
out  the  designs,  selected  the  colouring,  and  superintended 
the  whole  of  the  details  of  the  manufacture  with  the  best 
possible  results. 

The  drawing-room  was  hung  with  old  Chinese  and 
Tibetan  embroideries  and  vestments,  including  several 
very  fine  specimens  of  Rugen  or  bone  aprons,  and  filled 
with  a unique  collection  of  quaint  altar  vessels  and  speci- 
mens of  silver  gilt,  silver,  copper,  and  brass  work,  sent  by 
H.H.  the  Maharaja. 

The  tents  were  arranged  in  a semicircle  on  the  edge  of  a 
wide  drive  sweeping  from  the  entrance  gates  round  a grass 
plot,  and  the  whole  of  the  approach  was  lined  with  high 
poles  bearing  prayer-flags  of  different  colours  printed  with 
the  Buddhist  mystic  formula  : “ Om  Mani  padmi  hun.” 
We  were  lucky  also  in  having  a background  of  pretty  green 
trees  growing  on  the  banks  of  the  canal  instead  of  a 
sweep  of  dusty  plain.  The  camp  attracted  many  visitors, 
amongst  others  Their  Royal  Highnesses  the  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Connaught. 

In  the  absence  of  the  Maharaja,  the  Maharaj-Kumar 
was  allowed  to  represent  his  father  and  was  accorded  his 
salute  of  fifteen  guns,  Cavalry  escort,  and  military  guard 
46 


THE  DELHI  DURBAR 


on  the  camp.  He  also  took  his  place  in  all  the  great  State 
functions,  riding  an  extremely  fine  elephant  lent  for  the 
occasion  by  the  Betiah  Raj,  in  the  Chiefs’  Procession,  beside 
the  Maharaja  of  Cooch  Behar,  and  presenting  his  address 
to  the  King-Emperor  through  the  Viceroy  at  the  great 
Durbar.  The  speech  was  very  characteristic  and  may 
interest  my  readers  : “ May  His  Majesty  King  Edward  VII., 
from  the  time  of  occupation  of  this  Golden  Throne,  exercise 
power  over  all  these  worlds  ; may  he  live  for  thousands  of 
cycles  and  ever  sustain  all  living  creatures  in  joy  and 
happiness.” 

It  was  the  Kumar’s  first  attempt  at  playing  host 
to  a number  of  European  guests,  and  he  did  it  very 
nicely  with  Mrs.  White’s  help,  looking  carefully  after  the 
comfort  of  the  eight  or  ten  guests  staying  in  the  camp 
and  always  delighted  to  welcome  people  to  lunch  or 
dinner.  He  was  most  appreciative  of  any  assistance  we 
could  give  him,  and  constantly  said  he  would  have  been 
quite  unable  to  carry  out  any  of  his  arrangements  alone. 

We  spent  most  afternoons  on  the  polo  ground,  where 
the  polo  was  magnificent  and  where  all  the  Delhi  world 
congregated,  but  so  much  has  already  been  written 
about  the  great  Durbar,  I only  mention  it  as  an  episode 
connected  with  Sikhim  which  cannot  be  passed  over  in 
silence. 

To  me,  personally,  the  most  striking  features  of  the 
Durbar  were,  not  the  great  State  functions,  magnificent 
though  they  were,  but  the  wonderful  kaleidoscopic  pictures 
that  presented  themselves  at  every  turn.  Huge  modern 
camps  springing  up  in  a night  on  the  empty  plain,  fitted 
with  every  European  luxury,  mixed  up  with  gorgeously 
caparisoned  elephants,  strings  of  transport  camels,  smart 
carriages,  retainers  in  chain  armour  carrying  antiquated 
weapons,  performing  horses,  transport  carts,  ekkas,  soldiers, 
brilliant  uniforms  native  and  European,  camel  carriages, 
elephant  carriages,  wild  escorts  belonging  to  native  princes 
on  prancing  horses  with  drums  and  fifes,  dwarfs,  giants, 
47 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

alternating  with  impressive  State  functions  and  military  dis- 
plays all  intermingled  inextricably,  made  one  think  one  had 
been  transported  back  to  the  days  of  the  Arabian  Nights. 
The  whole  Durbar  was  a long  succession  of  wonderful  sights 
resplendent  in  their  vivid  colouring,  redolent  of  the  East, 
well  worth  seeing  and  which,  in  all  probability,  will  never 
again  be  brought  together,  even  in  India  : a most  splendid 
pageant,  but  whether  it  achieved  its  purpose  only  time  can 
show. 

It  was  the  first  occasion  on  which  a ruler  of  Sikhim  had 
been  present  at  a State  function.  The  late  Maharaja 
received  an  invitation  to  the  first  Durbar,  held  by  Lord 
Lytton  in  January  1877,  but  he  did  not  accept  it.  It  was 
much  to  be  regretted  that  His  Highness  the  present 
Maharaja  did  not  attend  on  this  occasion,  but  to  the 
Kumar  and  the  Kazis  and  headmen  in  his  suite  it  was 
a revelation  of  the  extent  of  British  supremacy,  and  the 
assemblage  of  so  many  chiefs  and  Rajas  from  north, 
south,  east,  and  west  come  together  to  pay  homage  to 
the  King-Emperor,  was  an  object-lesson,  brought  im- 
mediately home  to  them  of  the  greatness  of  our  Indian 
Empire. 

A couple  of  years  later,  in  1904,  when  Their  Royal 
Highnesses  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  were  about 
to  visit  India,  and  preparations  were  being  made  for  the 
assembly  of  chiefs  at  various  points  to  pay  homage  to  the 
heir  to  the  throne,  it  seemed  to  me  both  desirable  and 
expedient  to  include  the  chiefs  from  these  hill  borders 
amongst  those  assembling  in  Calcutta.  I accordingly 
approached  the  Government  of  India  on  the  subject  of 
issuing  invitations  to  the  Maharaja  and  Maharani  of 
Sikhim  and  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  the  Tongsa  Penlop  of 
Bhutan,  and  at  the  same  time  raised  the  question  of  inviting 
the  Tashi  Lama  of  Tibet  from  Shigatsi  also  to  be  present. 
Although  in  no  way  directly  connected  with  the  British 
Government,  it  seemed,  for  many  reasons,  particularly 
expedient  that  if  possible  he  should  be  induced  to  pay 
48 


GROUP  AT  HASTINGS  HOUSE,  CALCUTTA,  1906 

Back  Row:  BHUTAN  SOLDIER,  CAPTAIN  HYSLOP,  RAI  UGYEN  DORJI  BAHADUR,  RAI  LOBZANG  CHODEN  SAHIB,  JERUNG  DEWAN,  BURMIAK  KAZI, 


THE  DELHI  DURBAR 


a visit  to  India  at  this  particular  juncture.  There 
were  many  reasons  to  make  such  a departure  desirable 
and  in  addition  he,  a high  dignitary  of  the  Buddhist 
Church  and  considered  by  a certain  faction  in  Tibet  the 
superior  even  of  the  Delai  Lama,  would  have  an  oppor- 
tunity at  the  same  time  of  visiting  the  Buddhist  shrines 
in  India  which  must  necessarily  be  of  great  interest  to 
him. 

Government  adopted  my  views  and  eventually  issued 
the  necessary  invitations,  which  were  accepted. 

It  was  quite  a new  departure,  as  none  of  the  chiefs  on 
this  frontier  had  ever  before  left  their  mountain  homes, 
nor  had  they,  with  the  exception  of  one  short  visit  of  the 
Maharaja  of  Sikhim  to  Darjeeling,  been  guests  of  the 
Indian  Government,  neither  had  any  high  Tibetan  lama 
before  visited  India. 

The  arrangements  for  their  entertainment  were  some- 
what complicated  by  the  fact  that  as  Buddhists  and  without 
caste  prejudices  as  to  food,  everything  had  to  be  provided 
for  them,  and  although  an  attempt  was  made  to  limit  the 
number  of  followers  in  their  various  suites,  the  total  retinue 
of  the  three  chiefs  mounted  up  to  an  astounding  figure. 
They  were  an  extraordinary  collection  of  wild,  only  partly 
civilised  creatures,  especially  those  from  Tibet,  and 
most  picturesque.  The  Government  Official  Guest  House, 
Hastings  House,  Alipur,  was  placed  at  their  disposal,  as 
well  as  a second  house  in  the  grounds,  and  in  addition 
separate  camps  were  pitched  in  the  compound.  Water, 
both  for  drinking  and  washing  purposes,  was  laid  on  to 
each  camp  and  the  tents  and  grounds  were  lighted  by 
electricity,  lamps  were  quite  out  of  the  question  as  the 
camp  would  certainly  have  been  burnt  down  had  they 
been  used ; police  arrangements  were  very  necessary,  and 
carriages  and  means  of  transport  had  to  be  provided  for 
the  use  of  the  chiefs  and  their  following.  The  arrangement 
of  all  the  details  meant  a great  deal  of  work  and  corres- 
pondence, and  a visit  in  advance  to  Calcutta  to  discuss 
49  D 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

matters  with  the  Foreign  Office,  but  eventually  everything 
was  satisfactorily  carried  out. 

The  Tibetan  party  were  placed  in  charge  of  my  assis- 
tant, Captain  O’Connor,  the  trade  agent  at  Gyantsi,  and 
before  arriving  in  Calcutta  they  made  an  extensive  tour 
through  Upper  India,  accompanied  by  the  Rajkumar  of 
Sikhim,  visiting  Buddhist  shrines  of  importance  and 
interest  and  ending  with  Buddh  Gaya,  the  most  holy  of  all 
Buddhist  shrines.  Unfortunately  Buddh  Gaya,  with  all 
its  memories  and  associations  of  the  great  Buddha,  is  now 
in  the  hands  of  the  Hindus,  and  I am  sorry  to  say,  the 
Tashi  Lama  while  there,  owing  to  want  of  sound  advice, 
made  some  grave  mistakes  and  succeeded  in  alienating 
the  sympathy  of  the  Mohunt  and  the  Hindus,  the  last 
thing  to  be  desired,  as  the  Buddhists  are  very  anxious  to 
have  the  shrine  again  in  their  own  hands.  Of  course, 
allowances  have  to  be  made  for  a man  looked  upon  as 
sacred  in  his  own  country,  where  his  lightest  wish  is  law, 
and  who,  in  consequence  of  universal  veneration  and 
belief  in  his  own  infallibility,  has  had  very  little  under- 
standing of,  or  consideration  for,  any  form  of  religion  but 
his  own.  However,  notwithstanding  this,  I think  the 
Tashi  Lama’s  visit  was  productive  of  good,  and  he  returned 
with  some  small  idea  of  the  extent  and  power  of  our  Indian 
Empire,  and,  had  not  the  policy  of  Government,  by  its 
subsequent  action  in  Tibet,  frustrated  these  good  im- 
pressions, I think  they  might  have  had  memorable 
results. 

The  Maharaja  and  Maharani  of  Sikhim  were  in  charge 
of  Captain  Hyslop,  93rd  Highlanders,  and  thoroughly 
enjoyed  their  visit.  It  opened  their  minds  and  did  them 
an  immense  amount  of  good,  and  they  much  appreciated 
the  honour  paid  them  by  the  Prince  and  Princess.  His 
Royal  Highness  exchanged  visits  with  the  Maharaja,  as 
well  as  with  the  Tashi  Lama  and  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  while 
the  Princess  received  the  Maharani  at  Government  House. 
50 


THE  DELHI  DURBAR 


As  can  well  be  imagined,  this  first  visit  to  a city  was  full 
of  interest  and  surprise  to  them,  and  during  the  time  they 
were  in  Calcutta  they  saw  many  things  they  had  hitherto 
had  no  conception  of.  At  the  conclusion  of  their  visit,  they 
made  a pilgrimage  to  Buddh  Gaya  and  then  returned  to 
Sikhim  much  more  contented  with  their  lot  than  they  had 
formerly  been. 

But  on  the  whole  I think  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  Sir  Ugyen 
Wang-chuk,  took  the  most  intelligent  interest  in  what  he 
saw  and  had  no  hesitation  in  openly  expressing  his  pleasure 
in  what  he  liked.  He  was  particularly  interested  in  the 
various  industries,  the  cotton  and  paper  mills,  the  iron 
works,  and  mint,  and  the  warships  were  a revelation  to  him. 
Major  F.  W.  Rennick,  of  the  Intelligence  Branch,  was  in 
special  charge  of  him.  As  a good  Buddhist  he  also  visited 
Buddh  Gaya  and  plainly  expressed  his  opinion  that,  al- 
though no  one  would  be  more  glad  than  himself  were 
the  shrine  restored  to  the  Buddhist  community,  it  was 
folly  to  quarrel  with  the  Hindus,  who  for  so  many  years 
had  cared  for  and  tended  it,  and  that,  owing  to  their 
own  long  neglect,  the  Buddhists  had  only  themselves 
to  thank  that  it  was  no  longer  in  their  possession  and 
really  should  be  very  grateful  to  the  Hindus  for  their 
care. 

This  visit  cemented,  if  that  were  needed,  his  friend- 
ship towards,  and  admiration  for,  the  British  Government, 
and  instilled  more  deeply  his  determination  to  effect  the 
reforms  he  had  long  had  at  heart  in  his  own  country. 
He  was  much  impressed  with  his  reception  by  His 
Royal  Highness,  and  very  grateful  for  all  that  was  done 
for  him  during  his  visit. 

It  was  rather  an  undertaking  to  bring  this  party  of 
unsophisticated  chiefs  and  their  wild  following  to  Calcutta, 
but  with  the  help  and  co-operation  of  the  three  officers 
deputed  as  my  assistants,  Major  Rennick,  Captain  O’Connor 
and  Captain  Hyslop,  we  were  able  to  bring  the  visit  to  a 
5i 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 


conclusion  with  only  one  or  two  unfortunate  little  incidents. 
The  visit  was  certainly  a success  and  formed  a departure 
which  I hope  Government  will  follow  up,  of  keeping  up 
more  friendly  and  direct  relations  with  their  neighbours 
on  this  hitherto  little-known  frontier. 


52 


CHAPTER  VIII 

EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SIKHIM 


From  Gangtak  over  the  Giucha-la  to  Ringen.  Lossof  a coolie. 

Camp  amongst  glaciers  and  moraines.  A snow  leopard.  Alpine 

flowers.  Avalanches  and  ice  caves.  Crossing  a difficult  gorge. 

Lepchas  and  wild  bees.  The  Rungnu.  Sakhyong. 

In  1890  I made  one  of  my  first  expeditions  to  the  snows, 
crossing  the  Giucha-la  Pass  and  from  there  making  my  way 
to  Ringen,  following  a route  the  latter  part  of  which  had 
certainly  never  been  traversed  by  a European,  and  I doubt 
by  any  one,  except  possibly  a very  occasional  Lepcha.  As 
I intended  going  to  considerable  elevations,  I started  in 
the  middle  of  the  rainy  season,  in  July,  in  order  to  have 
less  snow  to  negotiate  and  also  less  chance  of  snow-storms 
in  the  high  altitudes.  From  Gangtak  I crossed  lower 
Sikhim,  travelling  via  the  Pemiongtchi  and  Dubdi  Monas- 
teries, and  so  far  I had  no  difficulty,  as  I slept  in  either 
village  houses  or  monasteries,  but  after  that  I had  to  take 
to  my  tents,  which  are  certainly  not  comfortable  in  pouring 
rain.  It  came  down  steadily  in  sheets  while  I was  at  Dubdi, 
and  when  the  morning  for  my  departure  came  it  was  no 
better  ; but  it  is  useless  to  wait  for  fine  weather  in  Sikhim, 
so  I started  in  spite  of  it.  The  path  led  up  a narrow 
and  very  precipitous  valley,  with  virgin  forest  on  either 
side  and  dense  undergrowth ; smaller  streams  came 
down  to  join  the  main  river  at  almost  every  hundred 
yards,  and  in  crossing  one  of  them,  my  first  mishap 
occurred. 


53 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

A torrent,  swollen  by  the  heavy  rain,  came  rushing 
down  a perpendicular  rock  with  an  almost  deafening  roar 
right  across  the  path,  which  at  that  point  was  water-worn 
rock  and  very  slippery,  and  then  leapt  into  an  abyss  below, 
the  bottom  of  which  I could  not  see.  A couple  of  saplings 
about  four  inches  in  diameter  had  been  placed  across,  and 
I had  gone  over  in  safety  and  was  resting  on  an  incline  on 
the  other  side,  when  one  of  my  coolies  came  up.  For  some 
reason,  as  he  was  crossing  the  poles,  he  either  slipped  or  lost 
his  balance,  I could  not  see  which,  but  he  fell  on  the  up- 
stream side,  was  immediately  carried  under  the  bridge 
and  swept  over  the  precipice  before  my  eyes.  It  all  hap- 
pened in  a moment,  and  such  was  the  inaccessibility  of  the 
spot  and  so  dense  the  jungle,  it  was  quite  impossible  to  do 
anything  for  the  poor  fellow.  Some  more  coolies  now  came 
up,  and  we  tried  to  cut  a way  down  through  the  dense 
tangle  of  trees  and  undergrowth,  but  this  proved  quite 
impossible,  though,  after  an  hour’s  work,  one  man  managed 
to  get  down  by  a circuitous  route,  only  to  find  that  his 
unfortunate  companion  had  been  swept  into  the  main 
torrent,  and  that  nothing  was  to  be  seen  of  either  him 
or  his  load.  I am  thankful  to  say  that  in  all  my 
wanderings  in  the  Himalayas  I have  only  lost  one  other 
coolie. 

Nothing  more  could  be  done,  so  we  moved  on,  but  the 
delay  caused  us  to  be  overtaken  by  nightfall  while  we  were 
still  in  the  gorge,  with  no  room  to  pitch  a tent.  I was 
glad  to  find  an  overhanging  rock  under  which  to  sleep,  and 
thought  myself  lucky  to  find  a comparatively  dry  spot  out 
of  the  drip,  but  it  was  not  a very  restful  night  surrounded 
by  my  coolies  who,  like  all  natives,  talked  for  hours,  and 
with  the  air  full  of  acrid  smoke  from  the  wood  fires  which 
made  sleep  difficult.  It  was  still  raining  when  I arrived  at 
Jongri,  my  next  halting  place,  13,140  feet  high,  just 
above  tree  level,  and  where  our  camp  was  in  open 
country. 

The  following  day  I reached  the  glaciers  which  come 
54 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
down  from  Kabru  and  Pundeem  and  had  my  tents  pitched 
amongst  them. 

In  the  morning  it  was  a little  finer  and  I caught  oc- 
casional glimpses  of  the  snows,  but  towards  afternoon  it 
commenced  raining  again  and  became  very  bleak  and 
cold,  and  in  going  round  my  camp  I found  one  of  my 
coolies,  a Paharia  or  Nepalese,  lying  huddled  up  in  a wet 
heap.  He  was  feeling  the  elevation  and  the  cold  and 
refused  to  move,  so  I placed  a stalwart  Bhutea  on  either 
side  of  him  and  made  them  run  him  up  and  down  until  his 
blood  began  to  circulate.  In  a little  while  he  went  off  and 
cooked  his  dinner  and  was  none  the  worse,  but  had  he 
been  left  to  himself,  he  would  probably  have  died  in  the 
night.  I stayed  here  for  a few  days  exploring  the  glaciers. 
The  camp  was  a wild  one  surrounded  by  enormous  quan- 
tities of  debris,  and  shut  in  on  three  sides  by  glaciers  and 
snows.  The  wet,  misty  weather  made  it  still  more  gloomy, 
but  on  the  third  day  the  morning  was  glorious.  Not  a 
sign  of  a cloud  was  to  be  seen,  and  the  snows  standing  up 
all  round  against  the  pale  blue  of  the  sky  made  the  scene 
a magnificent  one. 

While  I was  wandering  some  little  way  from  camp  I 
saw  a snow  leopard.  He  was  on  the  other  side  of  a glacial 
stream,  so  I could  not  get  very  close  to  him,  and  as  besides 
I had  only  a shot  gun  with  me,  I contented  myself  with 
watching  him,  and  a very  pretty  and  most  unusual  sight 
it  was.  He  was  playing  with  a large  raven,  which  kept 
swooping  down  just  out  of  his  reach,  and  to  see  him  get  on 
his  hind  legs  like  an  enormous  cat  and  jump  at  the  bird  was 
worth  watching.  Suddenly  he  saw  me  and  went  off  up  the 
hill  at  a pace  that  made  me  envious.  He  was  a fine  speci- 
men, very  large  and  with  a beautiful  coat,  and  I wish  I had 
had  the  luck  to  bag  him. 

The  weather  now  cleared  up,  and  I had  one  of  the  glorious 
breaks  which  occur  at  intervals  during  the  rains,  and  crossed 
the  Giucha-la,  16,420  feet,  in  clear  weather,  with  not  a 
cloud  in  the  sky.  The  view  from  the  top  is  superb.  Before 

55 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

one  lies  an  amphitheatre  of  snow  peaks,  all  over  21,000  feet, 
save  in  one  gap,  which  is  19,300  feet.  On  the  right  hand 
Sim-vo-vonchin  rises  sharply  over  the  19,000-foot  gap,  then 
the  splendid  shoulder  supporting  the  twin  peaks  of  Kang- 
chenjunga,  which  towers  up  to  a height  of  over  28,000  feet, 
and  with  something  like  11,000  feet  of  uninterrupted  snow 
and  ice  falling  in  a sheer  precipice  on  its  south  face  to  the 
great  glacier  at  its  foot,  next  the  ridge  connecting  Kang- 
chenjunga  with  Kabru,  and  on  the  immediate  left  a fine 
unnamed  snow  peak  with  hanging  glaciers,  but  Kabru 
itself  is  invisible  from  this  pass.  On  the  south  side  of  the 
Kangchen  glacier  were  some  ancient  moraines  covered  with 
exquisite  green  turf  and  masses  of  Alpine  flowers,  whose 
simple  beauty  and  vivid  colouring  stood  out  in  sharp 
contrast  to  the  grandeur  of  the  surrounding  snows,  making 
a picture  long  to  be  remembered.  I climbed  down  and  had 
my  tents  pitched  on  this  lovely  green  sward,  though  it 
seemed  almost  desecration  to  turn  such  a lovely  spot  into 
a noisy  camp,  with  all  its  ugly  and  commonplace  sur- 
roundings. 

Next  morning  I walked  up  the  valley  as  far  as  I could 
go  without  crossing  the  glacier,  and  the  scene,  if  possible, 
became  still  wilder  and  more  magnificent.  On  the  right  was 
Kangchen junga  and  to  the  left  Kabru  with  its  magnificent 
glacier,  while  joining  the  two  mountains  in  front  of  me  was 
a wall  of  snow  and  ice  21,000  feet  high.  By  and  by,  as  the 
sun  shone  on  the  face  of  Kangchen,  I saw  some  magnificent 
snow  avalanches.  They  came  thundering  down  on  all 
sides,  making  a peculiar  hissing  noise,  and  on  reaching 
the  glacier,  burst  into  clouds  of  spray  of  dazzling  whiteness, 
which  here  and  there  was  transformed  into  rainbow  colours 
by  the  rising  sun.  A little  later,  as  I was  photographing 
Kangchen  junga,  a large  piece  of  snow  cracked  off,  crashed 
down  about  8000  feet,  and,  reaching  the  bottom  with  a 
noise  like  thunder,  which  reverberated  through  the  sur- 
rounding heights,  filled  the  head  of  the  valley  with  a mist 
of  snow.  Altogether,  it  was  a day  of  most  beautiful  sights 
56 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
never  to  be  forgotten,  which  amply  rewarded  me  for  any 
hardships  or  privations  I had  to  undergo  to  achieve  my 
object. 

To  show  how  fickle  the  climate  can  be  in  the  proximity 
of  these  perpetual  snows,  I went  to  bed  that  night  in  perfect 
weather,  to  be  awakened  later  by  the  collapse  of  my  tent. 
A sudden  snowstorm  had  come  up,  and  soon,  before  any 
one  had  noticed  it,  the  weight  of  the  snow  became  so  great 
every  pole  of  my  tent  broke  and  I was  buried  underneath. 
Fortunately  a little  table  by  my  bed  saved  me  from  the 
weight  of  the  canvas  and  gave  me  some  breathing  space, 
so,  as  it  was  very  cold,  I remained  where  I was  till  the 
morning,  when  my  men  could  come  to  clear  up  the  debris. 
By  that  time  the  weather  was  again  perfect,  and  such  is 
the  power  of  the  sun  at  those  altitudes,  the  new  snow 
soon  disappeared,  but  as  it  had  made  everything  rather 
uncomfortable,  we  decided  not  to  move  camp  that  day. 

We  were  now  really  entering  unexplored  country,  as  I 
wished  to  go  down  the  Kangchen  glacier  to  the  source  of 
the  Rungnu-chhu,  and  thence  to  follow  the  stream  to 
Ringen.  None  of  my  coolies  had  ever  been  over  the 
ground,  and  as  I found  to  my  cost,  there  was  not  even  a 
track.  The  first  two  marches  were  very  easy,  as  we  kept 
to  the  centre  of  the  glacier,  which  we  found  quite  smooth 
and  very  good  going,  quite  unlike  most  of  the  other  glaciers 
I have  been  over,  either  those  on  the  south  of  the  Giucha-la, 
which  are  completely  cut  up,  have  enormous  holes  in  them, 
and  over  which  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to  march ; the 
Zemu  glacier,  which  is  much  the  same,  or  the  glaciers  in 
the  extreme  north  of  the  Lonak  Valley,  which  again  appear 
more  like  a rough  sea  suddenly  frozen  into  enormous 
hummocks  of  ice. 

This  difference  in  the  Kangchen  glacier  I am  unable  to 
account  for,  unless  it  may  be  that  the  ice,  running  as  it 
does  in  a very  narrow  valley,  is  of  a much  greater  depth, 
and  also  that  the  valley  lying  east  and  west  gets  less  sun 
and  escapes  the  full  force  of  the  south-west  monsoon.  It 
57 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

is  a curious  phenomenon  and  would  be  well  worth  investi- 
gation, but  its  solution  will,  I think,  require  the  study  of 
experts  in  such  matters.  This  glacier  ends  at  an  elevation 
of  12,100  feet  in  an  ice  cliff,  from  a cavern  in  which  the 
Rungnu  takes  its  rise,  and  here  my  worst  difficulties 
began. 

The  cliff  was  topped  with  cUbris  and  boulders  of  every 
size  just  on  the  balance,  which  at  any  moment  might  go 
down  with  a crash  to  the  bottom,  and  it  was  no  easy  matter 
to  climb  down  myself  without  bringing  tons  and  tons  on 
the  top  of  me,  and  more  difficult  to  get  all  my  coolies  and 
baggage  down.  Only  one  man  could  come  at  a time,  a 
long  process,  but  it  was  eventually  carried  through  without 
mishap.  At  the  foot  of  the  ice  cliff  I pitched  my  camp  in 
the  midst  of  rhododendrons  and  pines. 

Looking  directly  up  the  valley  was  the  end  of  the  glacier 
I had  just  descended,  gloomy  and  forbidding,  and  on  the 
right,  to  the  north,  was  the  limit  of  the  glacier  from  the 
19,000-foot  gap,  adding  to  the  scene  of  desolate  grandeur ; 
for  I think  there  can  be  no  more  wild  and  desolate  scene  than 
these  moraines,  in  which  the  large  glaciers  end  in  utter 
confusion,  giving  the  impression  of  a battlefield  where 
giants  and  titan  monsters  have  torn  up  huge  masses  of 
rock  to  hurl  at  one  another,  with  the  constant  fall  of  stones 
as  the  ice  melts,  and  the  weird  feeling  that  everything 
in  addition  is  quietly  though  imperceptibly  on  the 
move. 

On  close  examination,  the  ice  is  very  beautiful,  and  the 
ice  caves  out  of  which  the  river  rushes  are  magnificent. 
The  colouring  of  the  ice  was  lovely,  varying  in  every  shade 
of  green  and  from  pale  turquoise  blue  to  almost  black  in 
the  depths  of  the  caves,  with  opalescent  tints  where  the 
sun’s  rays  struck  its  edges.  Immediately  surrounding  me 
was  a carpet  of  the  Alpine  vegetation,  so  lovely  in  these 
hills,  and  amongst  the  undergrowth  I found  oak  and  silver 
ferns,  anemones,  primulas,  gentians  of  every  shade  of 
blue,  buttercups,  violas  and  innumerable  other  flowers, 

58 


KANGCHENJUNGA 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
with  here  and  there  magnificent  rhododendrons  and 
silver  pines,  though  the  latter  were  still  stunted  at  that 
elevation. 

Beautiful  as  the  vegetation  is,  it  makes  travelling  both 
arduous  and  difficult.  There  was  no  track  of  any  kind, 
the  bottom  of  the  valley  was  a mass  of  rocks  strewn  in  every 
direction  and  densely  covered  with  dwarf  rhododendron, 
which  necessitated  cutting  every  foot  of  the  way,  and 
progress  was  in  consequence  extremely  slow,  sometimes 
not  three  miles  in  a day.  To  add  to  our  discomfort  the 
fine  weather  broke  and  a constant  drizzle  set  in. 

I knew  my  way  out  lay  down  the  stream,  but  whether 
it  was  feasible  was  another  matter.  We  struggled  on  for 
several  days  till  we  came  to  a gorge  running  down  from  the 
17,000  feet  gap  which  lies  between  the  magnificent  snow 
peaks  Siniolchu  and  Simvoo,  and  which  at  this  point  had 
cut  into  a water-worn  chasm  300  feet  to  400  feet  deep,  and 
some  40  feet  to  50  feet  wide,  with  absolutely  perpendicular 
sides  as  slippery  as  glass. 

Here  we  were  obliged  to  wait  till  we  could  find  a way 
across.  There  was  no  camping  ground,  not  even  room  to 
pitch  a tent,  only  some  narrow  ledges  of  rock,  but  here 
perforce  I had  to  stay,  and  with  luck  I managed  to  throw 
the  outer  fly  of  my  tent  over  some  boulders  and  get  my 
bed  inside,  and  fortunately  the  night  was  fine.  The  next 
day  we  spent  searching  for  a means  of  crossing,  and  after 
some  hours  we  came  upon  a natural  bridge  formed  by  two 
gigantic  rocks  which  had  jammed  in  the  gorge  and  thus 
formed  a somewhat  hazardous  bridge.  We  set  to  work, 
and  with  great  difficulty  succeeded  in  letting  down  the 
baggage  with  the  aid  of  ropes  and  jungle  creepers,  and  at 
last  succeeded  in  getting  everything  across  safely. 

From  the  bridge  I had  a splendid  view  into  the  chasm 
some  hundreds  of  feet  below,  where  the  raging  torrent 
could  be  heard  grinding  the  boulders  together  with  a 
noise  like  thunder,  and  faintly  seen  in  the  dim  light,  but 
I was  not  sorry  to  have  safely  accomplished  the  crossing  of 
59 


SXKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

my  party,  especially  as,  to  add  to  our  difficulties,  in  the 
centre  of  the  bridge  we  had  to  crawl  through  a hole  on 
hands  and  knees. 

This  bridge  is  called  by  the  Lepchas  Tak-nil-vong-do-zah, 
and  is  occasionally  used  by  them  when  they  go  up  the 
valley  collecting  wax.  The  combs  of  the  wild  bees  are 
found  on  overhanging  precipices,  and  the  only  means  by 
which  they  can  be  reached  is  to  descend  from  above  on 
narrow  cane  ladders  just  wide  enough  for  a man’s  foot,  and 
often  300  feet  to  400  feet  long.  The  Lepcha  comes  down 
the  ladder  with  an  earthen  vessel  containing  fire  on  his 
head,  and  on  reaching  the  combs  puts  some  green  leaves  on 
it.  This  makes  a dense  smoke  and  drives  the  bees  away, 
while  he  cuts  off  the  combs,  which  are  often  6 feet  long  and 
4 feet  thick  ; he  then  throws  them  down  to  his  com- 
panions, but  it  is  a hazardous  business  as,  should  the  smoke 
not  drive  off  the  bees,  the  man  hanging  in  mid-air  has  no 
chance  if  they  attack  him.  The  men  waiting  below  catch 
the  combs,  squeeze  out  the  honey  and  partly  clarify  the 
wax  on  the  spot,  by  placing  it  in  boiling  water,  skimming 
it  off,  and  making  it  into  cakes  8 or  9 inches  in  diameter 
and  3 or  4 inches  thick.  The  honey  is  eaten  locally,  unless 
it  has  been  made  when  the  magnolia  is  in  flower,  in  which 
case  it  is  often  poisonous. 

A little  later  we  had  another  equally  difficult  crossing 
when  we  reached  the  Rungnu.  The  heavy  rain  had 
swollen  the  river,  and  the  only  means  of  crossing  was  by 
placing  a tree  from  the  bank  we  were  on,  to  rest  on  a small 
rock  in  the  centre  of  the  stream,  from  which  a notched  pole 
had  been  placed  up  the  side  of  a perpendicular  rock  to  a 
slippery  landing  on  the  top.  Across  this  very  unsteady 
and  rickety  pole  I had  to  go,  whether  I liked  it  or  not,  as 
there  was  no  other  way.  It  was  a very  nasty  place  and  I 
do  not  mind  admitting  I would  have  given  a good  deal  to 
avoid  it. 

The  river  was  rushing  underneath  to  dash  itself  angrily 
over  a precipice  some  300  feet  high  with  a deafening  roar. 

60 


BAMBOO  ROADWAY 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
A false  step,  and  once  in  the  water,  that  would  be  the  end, 
with  no  possible  chance  of  escape.  I managed  to  cross  the 
flat  pole  safely,  but  could  not  face  the  notched  one.  One 
of  my  Lepcha  coolies  offered  to  carry  me  up  on  his  shoulders 
if  I promised  to  make  no  movement,  but  this  seemed  even 
worse  than  climbing  up  by  myself,  as  I finally  did  with  the 
aid  of  a rope,  and  heartily  glad  I was  to  get  to  the  top  and 
on  to  the  hillside.  Unfortunately  I had  got  ahead  of  my 
baggage  coolies,  always  a fatal  thing  to  do,  and  before 
they  arrived,  the  river  had  risen  to  such  an  extent  they 
could  not  cross,  so  I was  left  on  one  side  with  all  my  baggage 
on  the  other,  and  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  make  the 
best  of  a bad  business.  With  me  were  Purboo,  my  Lepcha 
orderly,  the  coolie  with  my  camera,  and  one  other  man, 
Jerung  Denjung,  in  charge  of  the  coolies. 

It  was  pouring,  we  were  all  wet  through,  and  we  had 
only  one  piece  of  chocolate  between  us,  and  no  wood  to 
make  a fire  with,  as  everything  was  sopping.  Eventually 
Purboo  took  off  his  Lepcha  chudder  or  shawl  and  made  a 
shelter  by  hanging  it  over  some  sticks,  and  under  this  we 
all  got.  They  managed  somehow  to  light  a fire,  but  the 
smoke  from  the  wet  wood  was  perhaps  more  trying  than 
anything  else.  Here  we  sat  till  morning,  when  some  of 
the  coolies  turned  up,  and  we  were  able  to  get  something 
to  eat  and  a change  of  clothes. 

We  were  still  not  out  of  the  wood,  for  it  had  taken  me 
ten  days  longer  than  I had  expected  to  come  down,  and 
our  provisions  were  running  short.  Mine  were  quite 
finished,  but  some  of  the  men’s  rations  still  remained,  and 
these  they  shared  with  me  most  cheerfully,  and  we  all 
made  the  best  of  things  with  no  sign  of  grumbling  or 
discontent. 

But  soon  after,  the  end  of  our  troubles  came  in  view 
with  the  sight  of  some  Lepcha  cultivation.  The  men 
went  wild  with  delight,  and  I verily  believe  they  had 
thought  that  they  would  never  get  back  to  their  homes 
again  ; they  threw  down  their  loads,  danced  and  sang,  and 
61 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

then  started  off  with  renewed  energy  to  find  the  owners  of 
the  fields  in  the  outlying  houses  of  the  village  of  Sakhyong 
a few  miles  further  down.  Here  I was  royally  entertained 
by  the  people,  who  gave  me  everything  they  had,  eggs, 
buckwheat  cakes  and  some  other  cakes  of  flour,  made  by 
grinding  the  root  of  a caladium  which  grows  at  high  alti- 
tudes. These  latter  were  to  my  taste  most  unpalatable, 
but  I was  only  too  thankful  to  get  anything  after  the 
privations  and  hardships  we  had  come  through. 

From  Sakhyong  everything  was  comparatively  easy, 
there  was  a path  of  sorts,  and  we  were  again  amongst 
cultivation  and  scattered  houses,  and  in  a few  days  more 
I arrived  at  Ringen,  and  from  Ringen  another  five  days 
brought  me  to  my  headquarters  at  Gangtak  after  a most 
enjoyable  and  successful  expedition,  during  which  I had 
thoroughly  explored  the  hitherto  unknown  valley  running 
down  from  the  big  Kangchen  glacier. 

My  prolonged  absence  had  caused  some  alarm,  and 
even  given  rise  to  rumours  that  I had  been  captured  by 
the  Tibetans,  and  several  parties  had  been  sent  out  by 
the  Phodong  Lama  and  others  to  find  out  what  had  become 
of  me,  and  I was  greeted  with  a hearty  welcome  when  I at 
last  arrived. 

I do  not  think  this  journey  could  be  equalled  throughout 
the  world  for  its  beauty  and  variety  of  scene,  the  mag- 
nificent gorges,  with  wonderful  waterfalls  tumbling  down 
on  all  sides,  the  wild  desolation  of  the  higher  snows,  and 
the  richness  of  colouring  and  dense  vegetation  lower  down  ; 
every  few  miles  bringing  new  beauties  before  one. 


62 


CHAPTER  IX 

EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SIKHIM— continued 


From  Gangtak  to  the  Zemu  glacier,  Lonak  Valley,  Lachen  and 
Lachung.  Mr.  Hoffmann.  Cloud  effects.  Cane  bridges.  Hot 
springs.  Talung  Monastery  and  its  treasures.  Grazing  land  and 
Tibetan  herdsmen.  Yak  transport.  Locusts.  The  Sebu  Pass. 
Snow-blindness.  Lachung.  Goral-shooting. 

My  second  expedition  to  the  snows  was  made  in  June 
and  July  1891,  when,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Hoffmann,  the 
well-known  photographer,  my  object  was  to  explore  the 
Lonak  Valley  and  to  visit  Lachen  and  Lachung  on  my 
way  back. 

It  was,  however,  we  found,  a little  early  in  the  season,, 
as  the  winter  snow  had  not  yet  melted  on  any  of  the  higher 
passes,  and  this  made  travelling  difficult  as  well  as  uncom- 
fortable. We  left  Ringen,  our  starting  point,  in  pouring 
rain,  and  the  first  few  marches  were  very  trying.  They 
were  through  deep  gorges  all  under  5000  feet,  which  have  at 
this  time  of  year  an  atmosphere  almost  supersaturated 
with  moisture,  leeches  abounded,  and  fleas  were  numerous. 
They  swarmed  in  the  houses  and  monasteries  in  which  we 
slept,  in  order  to  avoid  using  the  tents  in  the  rain,  and 
made  it  a somewhat  doubtful  advantage. 

Travelling  at  this  time  of  the  year,  however,  has  certain 
points  to  recommend  it. 

The  foliage  of  the  trees  and  the  undergrowth  is  mag- 
nificent, most  of  the  flowering  shrubs  and  creepers  are  at 
their  best,  everything  looks  fresh,  and  the  colouring,  when 

63 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

the  sun  breaks  through  the  clouds,  is  wonderful.  Each 
leaf  and  bit  of  moss  sparkles  as  though  set  in  diamonds, 
the  air  is  filled  with  clouds  of  butterflies  of  every  imaginable 
colour,  the  near  distance  is  brilliant,  while  the  middle  and 
far  distances  shade  in  blues  and  purples  to  deep  indigo,  and 
when  a glimpse  of  the  snows  is  obtained  at  the  head  of  some 
valley,  they  stand  out,  an  almost  supernatural  vision  of 
ethereal  beauty,  the  whole  picture  made  up  of  the  softest 
of  tints  not  to  be  equalled,  in  my  opinion,  in  any  other  part 
of  the  world.  The  cloud  effects  are  marvellous,  the  vapour 
seems  to  boil  up  out  of  the  deep  valleys  as  out  of  some  huge 
caldron,  taking  the  most  fantastic  shapes  and  an  endless 
variety  of  colours  as  it  catches  the  sun’s  rays  ; then  sud- 
denly everything  is  blotted  out  into  monotonous  grey,  as 
though  such  wonderful  sights  were  too  grand  for  human 
eyes,  until  a sudden  puff  of  wind  blows  aside  the  veil  of 
mist  and  discloses  again  the  lovely  panorama. 

But  to  return  to  the  journey.  We  crossed  the  Teesta, 
a grand  sight  in  heavy  flood,  by  the  cane  bridge  at  Sanklan 
Sampo.  These  cane  bridges  are  a feature  of  Sikhim,  and 
very  rarely  met  with  elsewhere.  The  method  of  con- 
struction is  to  throw  across  the  stream  which  is  to  be  bridged 
sufficient  canes  to  form  two  side  supports.  The  canes  are 
passed  over  wooden  tressels  on  each  bank  of  the  river,  and 
after  stretching,  to  get  them  as  nearly  as  possible  into  the 
same  curve,  the  ends  are  fastened  to  trees,  roots  or  rocks,  any- 
thing to  which  they  can  be  made  fast.  Lengths  of  split  cane 
or  bamboo  are  then  fastened  to  the  cane  ropes,  thus  forming 
loops,  and  on  these  loops  two  bamboos  are  placed  side  by 
side,  making  a narrow  platform  on  which  an  insecure 
foothold  is  obtained.  This  bridge  was  220  feet  long,  but 
they  are  often  350  feet.  A cane  bridge  is  never  easy  to 
cross,  and  is  worse  towards  the  end  of  the  rains,  as  the  cane 
and  bamboo  with  which  it  is  constructed  quickly  decay, 
but  my  Lepcha  coolies  thought  nothing  of  it  and  soon  had 
all  the  loads  across. 

From  Sanklan  Sampo  to  Be,  the  road,  or  rather  track,  is 
64 


SANKLAN  SAMPO 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

one  of  the  worst  in  Sikhim.  It  consists  principally  of  a 
series  of  ladders  up  and  down  precipices  or  of  galleries 
clinging  to  the  face  of  cliffs.  These  ladders  are  made  of 
bamboo  with  cross  pieces  tied  to  them  for  steps,  generally 
at  an  angle,  never  horizontal,  and  in  wet  weather  they  are 
abominably  slippery.  The  galleries  are  also  made  of 
bamboos  fastened  to  any  projecting  root  or  tree,  and 
often  hung  by  canes  from  hundreds  of  feet  above  ; they 
are  never  more  than  two  bamboos  in  width,  and  only  in 
the  very  worst  places  do  they  ever  take  the  trouble  to 
put  up  any  kind  of  railing.  Progress  along  such  a road 
was  necessarily  slow,  and  our  marches  were  consequently 
very  short,  but  we  eventually  reached  Be,  the  last  col- 
lection of  houses  of  any  size,  for  it  cannot  be  called  a 
village,  where  a halt  was  made  for  a day  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  the  coolies’  food  before  going  into  the  uninhabited 
regions  higher  up.  As  Be  was  hot  and  the  camping  ground 
cramped,  I decided  to  move  on  to  the  Talung  Monastery 
and  wait  there  till  the  preparations  were  completed.  This 
turned  out  to  be  a wise  move,  as  there  was  good  camping 
ground  and  a great  deal  to  be  seen  both  in  the  monastery 
and  in  the  surrounding  country. 

We  followed  the  course  of  the  Rimpi-chhu,  a magnificent 
torrent  one  mass  of  foam  as  it  dashed  down  over  the  boulders 
and  between  precipices  without  a single  quiet  pool,  in  fact 
it  was  an  uninterrupted  cascade  which,  on  nearing  Talung, 
has  cut  its  way  into  the  rocks,  forming  one  of  the  magnifi- 
cent gorges,  300  feet  or  400  feet  deep  and  some  miles  in 
length,  which  occur  on  some  of  these  rivers.  This  gorge 
is  exceedingly  narrow,  and  the  branches  of  the  trees  at  the 
top  meet  each  other  across  the  chasm,  keeping  out  the  light, 
and  only  the  roar  of  the  river  can  be  heard  as  the  darkness 
makes  it  almost  impossible  to  see  the  bottom. 

At  one  point  the  trees  are  bent  over  from  either  side 
and  tied  together,  and  so  form  a good  though  somewhat 
precarious  bridge.  This  I crossed,  as  I wanted  to  visit  some 
sulphur  springs  on  the  other  side,  and  after  walking  some 

65  E 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

way  through  a dense  forest,  where  every  branch  was  hung 
with  moss  and  long  grey  lichen,  and  with  a thick  carpet  of 
moss  under  my  feet,  I found  the  springs.  The  water  is 
moderately  hot  and  is  used  by  the  Lepchas  in  cases  of 
rheumatism  and  skin  disease.  The  bathing  arrangements 
are  delightfully  primitive  ; a hole  is  dug  in  the  ground  or  a 
wall  built  of  stones,  the  crevices  are  filled  with  moss  and 
into  this  the  water  is  run  and  the  bathers  sit,  men  and 
women  indiscriminately,  with  no  shelter  except  sometimes 
a shawl  thrown  over  a bamboo  support.  The  patients  sit 
in  these  baths  for  from  four  to  eight  hours  a day  for  a period 
of  ten  to  fourteen  days.  The  Lepchas  have  the  most 
profound  belief  in  the  efficacy  of  the  water  and  declare  the 
cures  are  marvellous.  I have  visited  many  of  these  hot 
springs,  which  constantly  occur  in  the  valleys  throughout 
the  Himalayas  at  a certain  elevation,  and  in  some  of  them 
the  temperature  reaches  i6o°,  and  one  where  I stayed  for  a 
short  time  was  120°.  I need  hardly  say  that  I had  my  own 
bath  tub  in  my  tent  and  ran  the  water  into  it  from  the 
spring  by  means  of  a long  india-rubber  hose.  I have  no 
doubt,  were  better  arrangements  made,  the  beneficial 
qualities  of  the  waters  might  be  made  much  more  useful 
than  at  present ; now  they  are  used  only  by  occasional 
visitors  who,  to  reach  them,  have  to  undertake  difficult 
and  hazardous  journeys,  for  nearly  all  the  springs  are  found 
in  more  or  less  inaccessible  spots  lying  far  off  the  ordinary 
roads. 

Talung  Monastery  is  one  of  the  most  sacred  monasteries 
in  Sikhim,  and  is  full  of  very  beautiful  and  interesting 
objects  of  veneration,  nearly  all  real  works  of  art.  During 
the  Nepalese  invasion  of  1816,  many  of  these  objects  were 
removed  from  other  monasteries  and  brought  here  for 
safety,  and  have  remained  here  ever  since.  Unlike  most 
monasteries,  an  inventory  is  kept  and  most  carefully 
scrutinised  from  time  to  time  by  the  Maharaja,  and 
owing  to  these  precautions,  the  collection  has  remained 
intact. 


66 


OLD  VESTMENTS,  TALUNG  MONASTERY 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

Here  is  preserved  the  saddle  and  saddle-cloth  of  the 
Jock-chen  Lama,  the  first  lama  to  enter  Sikhim  from 
Tibet,  several  fine  thigh-bone  trumpets  and  some  splendid 
specimens  of  “ Rugen  ” (apron,  breastplate,  circlet  and 
armlets),  exquisitely  carved  from  human  bones,  a beau- 
tiful set  in  silver  gilt  of  marvellously  fine  workmanship 
of  the  Tashi  Tagye,  or  eight  lucky  signs,  as  well  as  many 
other  altar  vessels  and  vestments.  Here  also  are  all  the 
old  dancing  dresses  and  ornaments,  beyond  comparison 
finer  than  any  I have  ever  seen  in  other  monasteries  in 
Sikhim. 

All  these  treasures  were  produced  for  my  inspection, 
and  examination  to  see  that  they  duly  corresponded  with 
the  list,  and  were  then  most  carefully  put  away  and  re- 
sealed, but  before  this  was  done  some  of  the  lamas  put  on 
the  old  dresses,  to  enable  me  to  see  them  to  greater 
advantage. 

This  monastery  had  never  before  been  visited  by 
Europeans,  and  it  was  Mr.  Hoffmann’s  and  my  privilege 
to  be  the  first  to  see  this  unique  collection  of  Buddhist 
ritualistic  paraphernalia,  which  up  to  the  present  time  still 
remains  intact. 

Our  preparations  finally  completed,  we  made  for  un- 
inhabited country.  The  road  for  some  distance  was  com- 
paratively easy  and  ran  up  the  valley  of  the  Rimpi,  which 
we  twice  crossed,  through  splendid  forests  of  pine,  the 
Abies  Dumosa  being  particularly  fine.  The  rhododendrons 
were  in  flower,  and  together  with  the  new  foliage  of  the  birch 
trees,  made  bright  splashes  of  colour.  Whilst  on  the  first 
day’s  march  I discovered  that  a large  stream,  the  Zam- 
tu-chhu,  takes  its  rise  on  the  eastern  slopes  of  Siniolchu 
and  joins  the  Rimpi  on  its  right  bank,  thus  proving  the 
survey  maps  to  be  wrong  in  showing  it,  as  they  have 
hitherto  done,  running  to  the  south. 

I was  much  tempted  to  follow  up  this  stream,  as  Siniol- 
chu is  the  most  lovely  snow  peak  in  Sikhim,  and  the  views 
at  the  head  of  the  valley  must  be  magnificent,  but  it  would 
67 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

probably  have  taken  me  over  a week  and  I could  not 
spare  the  time,  as  I wanted  to  go  north  across  several 
snow  ranges  and  so  reach  a drier  climate.  These  high 
snow  ranges  act  as  a barrier  to  the  south-west  monsoon, 
very  little  of  which  penetrates  into  the  higher  valleys  or 
Into  Tibet.  We  therefore  went  straight  on,  and  after 
passing  some  very  fine  waterfalls,  camped  on  the  edge  of 
the  snow,  but  by  afternoon  the  weather  became  very  misty 
and  wet  and  we  passed  an  uncomfortable  night.  From 
this  camp  onwards,  till  we  had  crossed  the  Yeumtsho-la 
(15,800  feet),  marching  was  tedious  and  difficult  through 
soft  melting  snow,  and  we  even  had  to  pitch  our  tents  in 
snow.  The  Yeumtsho  and  other  lakes  were  thawing,  with 
water  lying  on  the  ice,  and  with  everything  in  a state  of 
slush  it  was  most  disagreeable  both  for  ourselves  and  our 
men.  The  mornings,  however,  were  clear,  and  we  had 
some  fine  views  of  Lama  Anden,  or  Lating  as  the  Lepchas 
call  it,  a twin  peak  which  is  visible  from  Darjeeling. 

Crossing  the  pass  we  found  very  difficult  as  the  snow 
was  deep  on  both  sides  and  very  soft,  but  once  over  we 
soon  left  it  behind  on  our  way  down  to  the  Zemu  Valley, 
where  we  camped  again  amidst  rhododendrons  at  12,800 
feet. 

Looking  down  the  valley  the  view  was  particularly  fine, 
the  precipices  and  rocks  on  the  summit  of  the  hills  ending 
in  some  very  fine  screes,  while  the  foot  of  the  valley  ap- 
peared to  be  blocked  by  the  snow  mass  of  Tsengui  Kang  in 
the  range  running  between  Lachen  and  Lachung. 

The  Zemu  glacier  ends,  about  one-third  of  a mile  up  the 
valley  from  where  our  camp  was  pitched  at  an  elevation  of 
13,830  feet,  in  an  ice  cliff  in  which  are  three  ice  caverns 
out  of  which  the  Zemu  river  rushes  in  turbulent,  muddy 
torrents.  This  glacier  is  the  largest  in  Sikhim  and  is  fed 
from  the  northern  slopes  of  Siniolchu  and  Simvoo  and  the 
eastern  slopes  of  Kangchenjunga,  and  with  it  are  incor- 
porated some  large  glaciers  from  the  ridge  running  to  the 
north  of  Kangchen.  With  the  exception  of  the  upper  part 
68 


IOLCH 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 


the  glacier  is  very  rough,  with  enormous  holes  and  covered 
with  huge  masses  of  debris,  and  in  this  resembles  that  to  the 
south  of  the  Giucha-la.  By  climbing  one  of  the  hills  to 
the  north  I had  a very  good  view  and  could  follow  dis- 
tinctly the  moraines  brought  down  by  the  different  side 
glaciers,  which  are  wonderfully  well  defined,  chiefly  by  the 
different  colour  of  the  rocks  in  each,  and  these  lines  are 
continued  for  miles  down  the  glacier  with  a very  pretty 
colour  effect. 

From  one  of  these  side  hills  I had,  early  one  morning, 
a magnificent  view  of  Siniolchu,  the  finest  snow  peak  in 
Sikhim.  It  was  very  early,  and  as  the  sun  rose  the  clouds 
lifted  for  a few  minutes,  disclosing  a lovely  picture.  The 
glacier  and  the  hills  immediately  behind  were  in  deep 
shadow,  but  Siniolchu  was  flooded  with  rosy  light  from  the 
rising  sun,  and  no  mere  photograph  can  give  any  idea  of  the 
beauty  of  the  scene.  It  only  lasted  a few  minutes,  and  then 
was  blotted  out  by  mist,  and  I never  saw  it  again  all  the 
days  I remained  in  the  valley. 

We  marched  up  the  side  of  the  glacier  to  a height  of 
17,500  feet,  finding  excellent  camping  grounds  all  the  way 
between  the  lateral  moraines  and  the  hills  on  the  north, 
and  as  far  as  I could  judge,  being  no  expert  in  ice  craft, 
there  would  have  been  absolutely  no  difficulty  in  walking 
up  to  the  top  of  either  the  19,000  feet  or  the  17,500  feet  gaps, 
as  the  upper  ends  of  these  glaciers  appear  perfectly  smooth 
with  apparently  no  big  fissures  and  very  little  soft  snow. 
Close  to  our  camp  on  the  north  a magnificent  glacier  ran 
into  the  valley.  In  this  the  ice  falls  were  magnificent  and 
by  far  the  finest  I have  seen. 

Camping  at  such  elevations  in  the  midst  of  ice  and 
surrounded  by  these  grand  snow  peaks,  the  silence  at  times 
is  almost  oppressive.  There  is  not  a sound  except  an 
occasional  weird  noise  caused  by  the  fall  of  stones  either 
on  the  ice  of  the  glacier  or  into  the  water  at  the  bottom  of 
some  vast  ice  pit.  But  yet  there  was  life  in  these  solitudes, 
as  I saw  several  herds  of  burhel  in  the  hills  above  the  camp. 

69 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

The  strata  to  the  north  of  the  glacier  are  very  notice- 
able and  run  in  thick  bands  of  red  and  grey,  which  give 
the  hills  a very  different  appearance  to  those  on  the  south, 
while  disintegration  is  going  on  very  rapidly  owing  to  the 
horizontal  strata  decaying  at  different  rates. 

All  this  was  new  country  hitherto  unvisited,  though 
some  of  it  was  traversed  later  by  Mr.  Douglas  Freshfield 
and  his  party  in  1899. 

The  weather  continued  so  bad,  I decided  to  return  to 
the  lower  end  of  the  glacier,  and  here  I am  sorry  to  say 
Mr.  Hoffmann  left  me,  having  no  more  time  at  his  dis- 
posal. My  way  led  me  into  the  mountains  to  the  north, 
and  I made  for  the  Tang-chung-la,  17,100  feet,  passing  a 
small  lake  to  the  north  at  15,200  feet. 

The  grazing  on  this  and  the  adjoining  hills  is  very  good, 
the  grass  from  8 inches  to  12  inches  deep,  but  no  flocks  of 
sheep  or  herds  of  yaks  were  to  be  seen.  The  reason  given 
for  not  making  use  of  this  excellent  pasture  was  its  in- 
accessibility from  the  south  and  the  unsuitability  of  its 
wet  climate  to  animals  accustomed  to  the  dryness  of  Tibet, 
but  it  seemed  a pity  it  should  be  so  wasted.  Next  day  I 
crossed  the  Thi-la,  17,430  feet,  and  after  a tiring  march, 
camped  in  the  Lonak  Valley  at  an  elevation  of  15,300  feet. 
The  change  in  climate  after  crossing  the  Thi-la  was  won- 
derful. Up  the  southern  slopes  it  had  rained  continuously, 
but  I had  not  gone  more  than  a few  hundred  feet  down  the 
northern  side  when  the  rain  ceased,  the  sun  came  out,  and 
a little  further  down  the  ground  was  dusty,  and  I camped 
at  the  bottom  in  a perfectly  dry  climate,  the  climate  of 
Tibet. 

The  face  of  the  country  too  had  changed,  there  were  no 
longer  rugged  rocks  and  precipices,  the  hills  were  rounded, 
the  result  of  the  disintegration  which  in  this  dry  climate 
does  not  wash  away ; the  bottoms  of  the  valleys  were 
broad  and  flat,  and  there  were  numerous  flocks  of  sheep 
and  herds  of  yaks  grazing  in  every  direction,  while  every- 
where were  scattered  the  black  yaks’  hair  tents  of  the 
70 


YAKS 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

Tibetan  herdsmen  who  bring  their  herds  and  flocks  to 
graze  in  these  Sikhim  highlands  during  three  or  four  months 
in  the  year. 

The  change  from  Sikhim  was  in  every  way  complete, 
there  was  no  longer  damp  hot  atmosphere  and  deep-cut 
valleys,  the  climate  was  dry  and  bracing,  the  hills  gently 
undulating  and  the  sky  blue  with  perpetual  sunshine, 
truly  a marvellous  change  to  find  oneself  at  the  end  of  a 
few  miles’  march  in  a country  so  closely  resembling  Tibet 
both  in  climate  and  appearance. 

Just  before  crossing  the  Thi-la  I was  met  by  some  yaks 
sent  by  the  Maharaja’s  orders  from  his  herds  in  the  Lonak 
Valley,  and  on  to  these  patient  and  sure-footed  animals  I 
transferred  my  baggage.  This  was  my  first  experience  of 
yak  transport,  and  for  these  altitudes  nothing  can  be  better. 
Provided  they  are  worked  in  moderation  and  given  not 
too  heavy  a load,  they  will  go  on  for  months  travelling  at 
an  even  pace,  and  will  cover  from  twenty  to  twenty-four 
miles  a day,  which  is  generally  as  far  as  one  wishes  to  go. 
They  are  wonderfully  sure-footed,  will  carry  their  rider  up 
and  down  and  over  anything,  and  only  on  one  occasion 
have  I seen  one  lose  its  footing  and  that  was  on  a com- 
paratively good  road.  They  are  not  uncomfortable  mounts 
once  you  become  accustomed  to  the  grunting  noise  they 
make,  which  sends  a curious  vibration  through  you,  and  to 
the  alarming  appearance  of  the  horns,  which  look  as  though, 
if  they  put  their  heads  slightly  back,  it  would  be  the  easiest 
thing  in  the  world  to  unseat  you  by  putting  one  on  either 
side  below  your  knees.  In  appearance  yaks  are  curious 
animals  to  look  at,  with  a thick  fringe  of  long  hair  hanging 
down  under  their  bellies,  huge  bushy  tails  and  a thick 
coat  of  hair,  generally  black  and  white,  and  holding  their 
heads  very  low,  so  low  that  in  riding  them  there  is  nothing 
in  front  of  you.  This  unusual  poise  of  the  head  has 
given  rise  to  a pretty  little  fable  which  I think  is  worth 
repeating. 

Long  years  ago  the  yak  and  the  buffalo  were  on  very 
7i 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

good  terms  and  loved  each  other  like  brothers,  but  owing 
to  the  malevolence  of  some  evil  spirit,  they  fell  out  and 
parted  company  and  the  buffalo  was  banished  to  the 
plains.  Now  they  long  to  meet  again — the  yak  is4  always 
looking  down  to  try  and  see  his  lost  brother,  while  the 
buffalo  is  always  casting  his  eyes  upwards  to  the  hills  in  the 
hope  that  he  may  see  his  old  friend  again.  Any  one  who 
is  familiar  with  the  yak  and  the  buffalo  will  appreciate  this 
little  tale. 

Before  I reached  my  camping  ground  I was  met  by  a 
Tibetan  official,  the  Jongpen  from  Khamba-jong,  who  told 
me  very  politely  that  I was  in  Tibet  and  must  return  by 
the  way  I had  come.  It  was  useless  to  point  out  to  him 
that  I was  some  miles  within  the  Sikhim  frontier,  or  even  to 
read  him  that  portion  of  the  Treaty  between  our  Govern- 
ment and  the  Tibetans  which  had  recently  been  signed. 
He  declared  he  knew  nothing  about  that,  and  that  the 
Thi-la  was  the  proper  boundary  whatever  the  Treaty 
might  say.  Of  course,  I refused  to  return,  but  finally  we 
came  to  a compromise,  and  I consented  to  turn  to  the  east 
and  to  return  over  the  Lungna-la  into  the  Lachen  Valley 
instead  of  exploring  the  Lonak  Valley.  I was  obliged  to  give 
way  to  some  extent,  as  my  instructions  from  Government 
were  particularly  to  avoid  any  open  disagreement  with  the 
Tibetans.  As  soon  as  I had  consented  to  do  this,  the 
Jongpen  was  much  relieved,  became  most  friendly  and  was 
always  about  my  tents. 

I stayed  in  the  camp  some  days  enjoying  the  rest, 
after  my  recent  exertions,  and  the  climate,  which  was 
perfect.  There  was  a little  shooting  to  be  had  and  I 
wandered  about  with  my  gun  very  happily.  Amongst 
other  things,  I came  across  a large  warren  of  marmots, 
Arctomys  himalayanus , the  large  Tibetan  variety.  These 
little  animals  are  interesting  to  watch,  and  for  such  clumsy- 
looking  brutes  marvellously  quick  in  their  movements, 
disappearing  into  their  holes  like  a flash  when  alarmed. 

The  only  inhabitants  of  the  valley  are  Tibetan  herds- 
72 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
men  who  come  during  the  summer  months  to  graze  their 
yaks  and  sheep.  They  were  all  very  friendly  and  glad  to 
give  me  shelter  from  the  cold  wind  in  their  black  yaks’ 
hair  tents,  but  it  was  a doubtful  pleasure  entering  them,  as 
these  people  are  indescribably  filthy.  Some  of  the  women 
were  so  thickly  covered  with  dirt  it  was  impossible  to 
distinguish  their  hair  under  a plaster  of  grease  and  dirt,  and 
the  only  thing  apparently  ever  washed  was  the  mouth,  and 
that  only  when  they  drank  their  buttered  tea. 

A curious  natural  phenomenon  was  the  increase  in 
volume  of  the  river  soon  after  the  sun  rose,  caused  by  the 
ice  melting  on  the  enormous  glaciers  in  which  it  took  its 
rise,  which  took  place  regularly  at  about  the  same  time 
every  day.  The  day  I moved  camp  I was  late  in  starting, 
and  found  the  stream  already  in  flood  and  consequently 
had  some  difficulty  in  crossing,  and  lost  three  of  my 
sheep,  which  were  washed  down  before  aid  could  reach 
them. 

I was  sorry  to  leave  Lonak,  partly  because  I wanted  to 
explore  the  valley  thoroughly,  and  partly  on  account  of 
the  climate,  as  I knew  that  as  soon  as  I crossed  the  pass  I 
would  again  find  myself  in  the  damp  regions  of  Sikhim, 
and  my  anticipations  proved  correct,  as  it  rained  before  I 
reached  my  camping  ground.  From  the  top  of  the  Lungna-la 
17,400  feet,  I had  a fine  view  of  Kangchenjunga  and  the 
snow  peaks  running  to  the  north.  To  my  astonishment, 
when  I reached  the  top  of  the  pass,  the  snow  was  covered 
with  dead  locusts  strewn  everywhere.  I later  found  that 
India  had  been  infested  with  flights  of  these  insects  and 
they  had  been  blown  up  to  the  heights  and  perished  in 
the  cold.  When  in  my  descent  I reached  the  line  of  vege- 
tation, I found  they  had  stripped  the  birches,  the  only 
leaves  they  seemed  to  care  to  eat,  and  there  also  they  were 
in  thousands,  but  dying  fast. 

From  the  Lungna-la  to  Thangu  was  an  easy  march,  and 
on  reaching  Thangu  I left  all  my  heavy  camp  equipage 
and  went  down  light  to  the  village  of  Lamteng,  the  head- 
73 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

quarters  of  the  migratory  inhabitants  of  the  Lachen  Valley, 
comprising  about  seventy-five  houses.  The  people  are 
herdsmen  as  well  as  traders,  and  move  with  their  cattle  up 
or  down  the  valley  according  to  the  season,  and  as  the 
summer  months  are  the  only  ones  during  which  the  passes 
to  Tibet  are  open  for  their  merchandise,  they  are  only  to 
be  found  in  Lamteng  during  the  winter.  One  of  the 
annual  migrations  down  the  valley  is  a curious  sight  to 
witness.  In  order  to  insure  that  no  individual  shall  have 
the  advantage  of  his  neighbour  in  the  matter  of  grazing, 
the  whole  population  moves  into  Lamteng  on  the  same 
day,  bringing  with  them  their  entire  families,  all  their 
yaks,  ponies,  cattle,  goats,  fowls,  dogs  and  household 
goods,  and  on  such  a day  it  is  safer  to  camp  some  little  way 
off  the  road,  as  yaks  are  no  respectors  of  persons  and  would 
soon  have  all  the  tents  trampled  on  the  ground. 

On  my  way  down  the  valley  I had  the  luck  to  witness  an 
enormous  rock  avalanche,  the  only  one  of  any  magnitude 
I have  seen  in  Sikhim.  It  was  a grand  sight ; the  rocks 
came  thundering  down  the  hillside  with  tremendous 
velocity,  many  of  them  as  large  as  a house,  and  dashed  into 
the  river  at  the  bottom.  I was  exactly  opposite  the  slip 
on  the  farther  side  of  the  valley  in  an  absolutely  safe  position 
and  could  watch  this  very  unusual  phenomenon  at  my  ease. 
My  coolies  were  much  alarmed,  and  I was  not  surprised, 
as  it  was  in  many  ways  a most  awe-inspiring  sight. 

From  Lamteng  I returned  to  Thangu  and  went  up  to 
Giaogong  where  I was  again  met  by  Tibetan  officials  with 
the  same  story,  that  I could  not  be  allowed  to  cross  the 
boundary  into  Tibet,  and  that  they  knew  nothing  of  the  late 
Treaty.  Much  my  easiest  way  would  have  been  to  follow 
the  Lachen  river  to  the  Cholamo  lakes,  and  then  cross  the 
Donkia-la  into  the  Lachung  Valley,  but  as  this  neces- 
sitated going  through  the  disputed  ground,  I was  obliged 
to  take  a more  difficult  route  to  the  south  of  Kang- 
chenjhau  and  then  over  the  Sibu-la  between  Lachen  and 
Lachung. 


74 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

Giaogong  was  visited  by  Hooker  in  1848  and  again  by 
Macaulay  in  1886.  It  is  a desolate,  wind-swept  spot  lying 
in  the  centre  of  a gorge  between  Chomiomo,  23,000  feet, 
on  the  west  and  Kangchenjhau,  24,000  feet,  on  the  east, 
and  is  a veritable  funnel  up  which  the  wind  is  always 
howling.  I managed,  however,  to  find  a fairly  sheltered 
spot  for  my  camp  and  stayed  for  a few  days.  On  one  I 
climbed  the  18,221-feet  hill  to  the  west  called  Tunlo,  and 
from  the  top  I had  a magnificent  view  over  the  north  of 
Sikhim  up  to  the  rounded  hills  forming  the  watershed  and 
the  true  boundary.  Looked  at  from  this  elevation  the 
scene  is  a most  desolate  one,  truly  typical  of,  and  only  to 
be  found  in,  Tibet;  with  the  exception  of  the  valley 
immediately  below  me,  nothing  was  under  18,000  feet,  with- 
out a shrub,  much  less  a tree,  to  be  seen,  and  the  wonder 
was  how  the  large  flocks  of  sheep  scattered  about,  num- 
bering perhaps  10,000  or  12,000,  found  enough  grazing  to 
keep  them  alive. 

On  leaving  Giaogong,  some  distance  to  the  south-east, 
where  the  rainfall  is  comparatively  heavy,  my  route  took 
me  over  some  ancient  moraines,  now,  after  centuries  of 
disintegration,  a series  of  undulating  downs  called  Phalung, 
covered  with  thick  soft  turf  and  dotted  with  the  yaks  and 
tents  of  the  Lachen  herdsmen.  I also  passed  some  good 
flocks  of  burhel  on  these  moraines,  one  numbering  about 
eighty.  The  glaciers  running  down  from  this  range  are 
comparatively  small,  although  with  the  splendid  backing 
of  the  perpendicular  cliffs  of  Kangchenjhau  they  look 
imposing. 

After  crossing  these  downs,  I camped  at  Sechuglaka  and 
was  detained  there  by  bad  weather,  my  coolies  declaring 
the  Sebu-la  was  impassable  in  soft  snow.  The  pass  is 
17,600  feet  and  there  is  a small  glacier  which  has  to  be 
crossed  before  reaching  the  summit,  but  this  was  nego- 
tiated with  little  difficulty  ; there  were  one  or  two  small 
crevasses,  but  my  men  knew  where  they  were  and  how  to 
avoid  them. 


75 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

The  summit  of  this  pass  is  a knife-edge  of  rock  so 
narrow  that  in  places  20  feet  to  30  feet  below  the  top  light 
can  be  seen  through  cracks  in  the  rock,  and  along  this 
narrow  edge  the  track  led  for  a short  distance.  The  east 
side  was  nothing  but  a mass  of  rocks  everywhere,  which 
made  travelling  most  difficult,  and  had  these  been  covered 
with  new  snow  I can  quite  imagine  it  being  impassable, 
and  I should  never  have  got  down  without  some  broken 
limbs  amongst  my  coolies,  while  as  it  was,  even  without  the 
snow,  it  was  anything  but  pleasant  going. 

Some  years  later,  coming  from  Lachung,  I crossed  the 
pass  with  my  wife  and  daughter.  It  was  quite  impossible 
either  to  ride  up  or  to  be  carried  in  a dandy  over  such 
boulders,  so  they  were  carried  on  the  backs  of  two  of  the 
strongest  Lachung  men,  splendid  specimens,  with  a chudder 
(native  shawl)  tied  round  them  and  over  the  men’s  shoulders, 
two  other  men  helping,  one  on  either  side.  How  they 
managed  to  get  over  the  rocks  was  a marvel,  but  they 
did  it,  and  very  quickly  too,  and  were  soon  at  the  top. 

After  the  first  descent  of  half  a mile  or  so  the  road 
was  an  easy  one  over  and  between  old  moraines,  while  to 
the  left  some  fine  glaciers  came  down  from  Kangchenjhau 
and  Tsen-gui-kang. 

My  camp  that  night  was  close  to  the  hot  springs  at 
Momay  Samdong,  mentioned  by  Hooker  in  his  Himalayan 
Journals,  with  the  water  at  a temperature  of  160°.  They 
are  very  unimportant,  the  flow  of  water  is  small,  and  they 
are  seldom  used  now  for  bathing  purposes. 

From  Momay  Samdong  I ascended  the  Donkia-la, 
18,100  feet,  and  had  a slendid  view  over  the  country  to  the 
north  ; first  the  Cholamo  lakes  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  pass, 
then  the  rounded  hills  of  the  watershed  and  boundary, 
and  further  still  the  limestone  ranges  of  Tibet.  The  view 
though  desolate,  was  very  fine,  and  I naturally  longed  to 
explore  the  unknown  country  beyond,  but  this  was  not  to  be 
till  many  years  had  passed,  so  I had  reluctantly  to  turn  my 
back  and  descend  again  into  the  valleys  of  Sikhim,  but 
76 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

before  reaching  Momay,  I explored  to  the  east  and  dis- 
covered an  easy  pass  leading  into  Tibet  which  is  occasionally 
used  by  graziers. 

There  is  some  very  fine  burhel  ground  on  the  hills  on 
each  side  of  the  valley  running  from  the  Donkia  to  Momay, 
especially  to  the  east,  where  I saw  some  of  the  biggest 
herds  I have  come  across,  and  I think  any  one  really  going 
in  for  shooting  might  secure  a record  head  here.  It  was 
near  this  that  Dr.  Pearse  shot  one  measuring  29I  inches 
and  I believe  the  record  is  30I-  inches.  The  shooting, 
however,  along  all  the  Sikhim  hills,  is  very  disappointing 
and  most  difficult,  owing  principally  to  climatic  conditions, 
for  in  the  rains,  just  as  the  sportsman  is  stalking  the  game, 
a cloud  may  and  often  does,  suddenly  come  along  and  blot 
out  everything,  which,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  is  most  annoy- 
ing, while  in  the  fine  weather  at  the  end  of  October  and 
November  the  cold  is  intense  and  there  is  always  the 
danger  of  being  caught  by  the  snow. 

On  leaving  Momay  Samdong  I did  not  go  straight 
down  the  valley,  but  turned  to  the  east  up  Temba-chhu  and 
explored  up  to  the  glacier,  but  the  weather  was  bad  and  I 
saw  very  little.  I then  turned  to  the  south  and  crossed 
an  unknown  pass,  17,700  feet,  which  led  over  the  range 
dividing  the  Lachung  and  Sebu  valleys.  It  was  a grey 
day  when  we  started  and  soon  commenced  to  snow  and 
continued  to  snow  the  whole  day.  The  snow  was  very 
deep  and  very  soft,  often  up  to  my  armpits,  and  the  going 
was  very  difficult,  especially  for  the  laden  coolies,  for 
although  I had  sent  the  greater  part  of  my  heavy  baggage 
straight  to  the  Lachung  village,  I still  had  a good  deal 
with  me.  We  toiled  on  for  hours  and  at  last  reached  the 
summit.  The  snow  was  still  falling  and  we  floundered 
down  till  we  came  to  a flat  bit  of  ground,  evidently  the 
bed  of  an  old  lake,  and  here  I decided  to  halt  for  the 
night. 

Experience  teaches,  and  I certainly  had  a lesson  that 
day  I could  well  have  done  without,  and  which  I am  not 
77 


SIKHXM  AND  BHUTAN 

likely  to  forget.  The  day  was  so  dull  and  grey  it  never 
struck  me  there  could  be  any  ill  effects  from  the  light  on  the 
snow,  and  though  I had  my  snow  spectacles  in  my  pocket 
I did  not  put  them  on  and  felt  no  ill  effects  until  after  my 
arrival  in  camp,  when  my  eyes  began  to  smart  and  I soon 
could  see  nothing,  and  realised  that  I was  in  for  a bad 
attack  of  snow  blindness.  I passed  a wretched  night, 
and  when  morning  came  I could  not  open  my  eyes  and 
was  obliged  to  He  where  I was  in  bed.  I had  only  a small 
single  fly  tent,  it  was  raining  hard,  very  cold,  and  everything 
was  most  uncomfortable.  My  bearer  Diboo  brought  me 
my  food  and  practically  had  to  feed  me,  for  I could  see 
nothing.  This  total  blindness  lasted  for  two  days,  but  by 
the  third  morning  I could  see  a little,  and  by  carefully 
shading  my  eyes,  I was  able  to  get  down  to  the  forest 
Hmit  and  out  of  the  intense  glare.  I found  that  at  least 
one-third  of  my  coolies  were  in  a similar  condition,  so  I 
was  not  the  only  sufferer.  The  pain  in  the  eyes  in  snow 
blindness  is  very  acute  indeed,  and  it  was  a sharp  lesson 
which  I have  never  forgotten.  My  men  suggested  several 
remedies,  none  of  which  were  very  pleasant,  so  I contented 
myself  with  placing  cold  wet  handkerchiefs  on  my  eyes, 
which  I constantly  changed.  There  was  little  trouble  in 
doing  this,  as  I had  only  to  hold  my  handkerchief  against 
the  fly  of  the  tent  to  wet  it,  and  I dare  say  it  was  the  best 
thing  I could  have  done.  Years  later,  I learnt  a very 
simple  and  certain  remedy  for  snow  blindness  which  I have 
since  used  on  several  occasions  with  excellent  effect  for 
coolies  who  had  neglected  to  cover  their  eyes  when  crossing 
snow.  It  is  to  drop  a few  drops  of  castor  oil  into  the  eyes 
and  the  relief  is  almost  instantaneous. 

Lepcha  and  Tibetan  coolies  when  crossing  the  passes 
use  spectacles  made  of  very  finely  woven  hair,  and  if  by 
chance  they  do  not  have  them,  they  bring  their  own  hair, 
which  is  always  rather  long,  over  their  faces,  and  this  makes 
a very  good  veil.  I have  often  seen  them  do  it  when  sud- 
denly caught  in  a snowstorm  amongst  the  mountains.  It 
78 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
is  only  quite  newly  fallen  snow  that  has  such  a speedy  effect 
on  the  eyes,  and  I believe  it  must  be  the  actinic  rays  from 
the  extremely  white  snow  that  causes  it.  Old  snow  will 
also  cause  blindness  when  it  has  the  full  force  of  a tropical 
sun  shining  on  it,  but  is  not  nearly  so  quick  in  its  action. 

From  this  somewhat  dreary  camp  it  did  not  take  us 
long  to  descend  into  the  pine  forests,  and  we  camped  at 
a place  called  Sebu  in  the  midst  of  silver  firs.  I had  been 
for  six  or  seven  weeks  high  up  above  all  vegetation  except 
grass,  and  the  change  to  the  forest  was  welcome,  especially 
as  the  weather  was  again  fine.  This  continued  as  I marched 
down  the  valley,  a lovely  one  with  some  of  the  finest  trees 
there  are  in  Sikhim  growing  in  it.  One  fallen  giant,  a 
spruce,  that  I measured,  was  220  feet  from  the  roots  to 
where  it  was  broken  off  short,  and  there  it  measured  6 feet 
in  girth.  What  had  become  of  the  top  I do  not  know,  but 
it  was  a magnificent  specimen.  The  road  was  easy  the 
whole  way  and  delightfully  soft  to  walk  on,  as  it  was 
carpeted  with  moss  and  pine  needles.  This  valley,  the 
Sebu,  would  delight  the  heart  of  an  artist ; there  are  soft 
glades  with  streams  wandering  quietly  through  them, 
splendid  forests  of  pine  with  beetling  crags  in  every  direction 
and  glimpses  of  snow  up  every  side  valley.  I often  wish  I 
could  have  painted  some  of  these  scenes,  for  my  photo- 
graphs do  not  do  them  justice,  as  they  give  no  idea  of  the 
varied  and  exquisite  colouring. 

I joined  the  main  Lachung  Valley  at  Yac-cha,  some 
four  miles  above  the  village  of  Lachung,  where  I was  met 
by  the  Phodong  Lama,  and  where  we  remained  some  time 
transacting  business  with  the  headmen  of  the  valley. 

The  two  villages  of  Lamteng  in  the  Lachen  and  Lachung 
in  the  Lachung  Valley  have  an  unusual  and  almost  com- 
munistic government  of  their  own.  On  every  occasion 
the  whole  population  meet  at  a “ panchayat,”  or  council, 
where  they  sit  in  a ring  in  consultation.  Nothing,  however 
small,  is  done  without  such  a meeting,  even  if  it  was  only 
to  supply  me  with  firewood  or  to  tell  off  a man  to  carry 

79 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

water.  Everything  is  settled  at  these  meetings,  any 
business  there  may  be  is  transacted,  and  everything  from 
the  choosing  of  their  own  headman  to  the  smallest  detail  is 
arranged  in  consultation.  The  consequence  is,  everything 
is  done  very  deliberately  and  much  time  is  wasted  in 
useless  discussion,  but  the  system  seems  to  suit  the  people 
and  I allowed  it  to  be  continued  with  some  small  modifi- 
cations. When  transport  is  required,  the  panchayat  sits 
to  select  the  coolies,  and  after  that  is  done  there  is  a curious 
custom  of  drawing  lots  for  each  man’s  load  gone  through. 
Each  one  gives  a garter  to  the  headman,  who  puts  them 
all  together  in  the  inside  of  his  boku  or  outer  garment. 
He  then  goes  round  to  the  loads,  drawing  out  a garter  and 
placing  one  on  each  load,  and  the  owner  of  the  garter  has  to 
carry  that  load.  This  is  all  a little  tiresome  when  one  is 
anxious  to  be  off,  but  once  the  formalities  have  been  gone 
through,  the  loads  are  picked  up  and  quickly  carried  away 
without  another  word.  The  people  of  these  valleys  are 
a particularly  nice  lot,  jolly  and  bright  and  of  splendid 
physique.  I have  travelled  with  them  often  and  never 
had  the  least  trouble.  They  are  of  Tibetan  origin,  but  came 
into  Sikhim  from  Hah  in  Bhutan.  Lachung  itself  is  a 
beautifully  situated  village  of  about  eighty  houses,  with 
enormous  cliffs  overhanging  it  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
valley,  and  it  is  not  very  wet — probably  about  fifty  inches 
of  rain  in  the  year — and  with  an  elevation  of  nearly  9,000 
feet,  it  has  a delightful  summer  climate. 

Between  Chungtang  and  Lachung  there  is  probably  as 
good  gural  (Himalayan  chamois)  shooting  as  anywhere, 
and  I managed  to  get  some  excellent  sport  on  the  cliffs 
immediately  above  Lachung,  though  it  was  very  difficult 
climbing,  but  with  the  help  of  one  of  the  villagers  I 
succeeded  in  getting  up  and  bagged  three  or  four.  I 
saw  many  more,  but  it  was  not  possible  to  get  within 
shot. 

At  Lachung  a valley  comes  down  from  the  Tanka-la, 
and  up  this,  very  good  burhel  shooting  is  to  be  had, 
80 


TYPICAL  SIKHIM  SCENERY 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
especially  in  the  winter  months,  when  the  animals  come 
down  to  graze. 

I marched  slowly  back  to  Gangtak  accompanied  by  the 
Phodong  Lama,  and  was  not  sorry  to  arrive  there  after  an 
absence  of  eleven  weeks.  We  had  work  to  do  in  every 
camp,  and  that  and  the  state  of  the  track  necessitated 
short  marches  ; the  paths  were  so  bad  it  was  only  with  the 
greatest  difficulty  any  four-footed  animal  could  be  taken 
over  them.  Now  there  is  a good  road  the  whole  way  from 
Gangtak  to  Lachung,  and  the  distances  can  easily  be 
covered  in  two  days,  while  at  that  time  a week  was  the 
quickest  it  could  be  done  in. 


81 


F 


CHAPTER  X 

EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SIKHltf—  continued 


Demarcation  of  the  northern  boundary  between  Sikhim  and 
Tibet.  Difficulties  of  transport.  Mountain  sickness.  Survey 
work.  Caught  in  a storm.  Durkey  Sirdar.  Ovis  ammon. 
Photographing  the  glaciers.  A ride  at  21,600  feet.  Evidence 
of  former  size  of  the  glaciers. 


My  exploration  of  the  northern  boundary  between  Sikhim 
and  Tibet  was  undertaken  in  1902  under  very  different 
circumstances  to  my  other  explorations.  The  object  on 
this  occasion  was,  under  instructions  from  the  Viceroy,  to 
lay  down  the  boundary  between  the  two  countries  as  de- 
fined by  the  Tibet  Treaty  of  1890. 

I took  with  me  an  escort  of  the  8th  Gurkhas  under 
command  of  Captain  Murray  and  Lieutenant  Coleridge, 
with  an  officer  in  medical  charge,  and  Major  Iggulden 
accompanied  me  as  Intelligence  officer. 

We  left  Gangtak  on  June  15.  It  was  my  first  ex- 
perience of  entire  dependence  upon  local  resources  for  the 
transport  of  so  large  a body  of  men,  as  well  as  their  rations 
and  other  impedimenta,  and  I had  some  difficulty  to 
commence  with,  especially  at  Tumlong,  where  the  populace 
is  very  scattered,  in  finding  a sufficient  number  of  men  and 
animals,  and  I was  obliged  to  halt  to  collect  them.  In 
addition,  the  weather  was  abominable,  rain  coming  down 
in  torrents  and  wetting  the  tents  through  and  thereby 
enormously  increasing  their  weight.  But  after  a short 
delay  I got  everything  off  and  followed  myself  the  next 

82 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
day.  Major  Iggulden  caught  me  up  just  before  I reached 
the  Samatek  Bungalow,  wet  through,  and  we  were  very 
glad  to  get  into  its  shelter  and  to  dry  our  clothes.  I 
continued  to  have  difficulty  with  transport  until  we  reached 
Lamteng  in  the  Lachen  Valley,  where  we  could  get  yaks, 
and  then  my  troubles  ended.  Travelling  in  these  very 
sparsely  populated  valleys,  where  only  coolie  transport  is 
available,  has  many  difficulties  when  a large  party  has  to 
be  moved.  Above  Lamteng  the  road  is  much  easier,  the 
gradients  are  better  and  the  hot  steamy  valleys  are  left 
behind.  Yaks,  if  properly  treated,  make  excellent  beasts 
of  burden  and  throughout  the  trip  I had  no  difficulty  with 
them  ; they  even  crossed  almost  inaccessible  passes  with 
remarkable  ease,  and  it  was  quite  wonderful  to  see  them 
picking  their  way  through  ice  and  snow  where  it  was 
difficult  even  for  a man  to  find  a foothold. 

After  spending  some  days  at  Thangu,  where  I left  half 
the  escort  under  Lieutenant  Coleridge  as  a reserve,  and 
after  sending  on  ahead  rations,  firewood,  &c.,  we  started 
for  the  higher  lands  and  camped  the  first  night  at  Go- 
chung  at  an  elevation  of  about  14,500  feet.  I have  always 
found  from  14,000  feet  to  15,000  feet  a critical  height  in 
climbing,  and  men  often  feel  the  effects  more  at  this  eleva- 
tion than  higher  up  ; also  if  they  do  not  feel  the  height 
then,  they  are  unlikely  to  feel  it  much,  even  at  very  much 
higher  elevations.  Many  of  the  escort  fell  out,  suffering 
from  mountain  sickness  and  violent  headaches,  nothing 
would  induce  them  to  go  on,  and  they  were  so  bad  next 
morning  we  were  obliged  to  send  them  back.  All  these 
men  were  Nepalese  hill  men  and  ought  not  to  have  felt  the 
height  at  all.  After  this  weeding  out,  although  I took 
several  to  an  elevation  of  over  20,000  feet,  and  two  of 
them  to  21,600  feet,  not  a man  fell  out. 

The  next  day  we  moved  on  to  Giaogong,  a point  in  the 
Lachen  Valley  lying  within  the  boundary,  and  claimed 
by  the  Tibetans.  According  to  the  Sikhim-Tibet  Treaty 
of  1890,  the  boundary  between  the  two  countries  is  defined 
83 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

as  the  watershed  of  the  river  Teesta  and  its  tributaries, 
and  as  Giaogong  lies  some  eight  to  nine  miles  south  of  the 
watershed,  it  was  difficult  to  see  on  what  grounds  the 
Tibetans  claimed  it,  and  it  was  in  order  to  settle  the  dis- 
puted question  and  to  finally  demarcate  the  boundary,  as 
defined  in  the  Treaty,  that  I had  come. 

My  plan  was  to  traverse  personally  the  whole  disputed 
line  from  east  of  the  Donkia-la  to  the  head  of  the  Lonak 
Yalley.  This  was  not  a very  easy  undertaking  as  in  one 
place  only  did  the  line  come  as  low  as  a pass  of  17,700  feet, 
while  all  the  other  passes  were  very  much  higher.  We 
found  it  possible  to  march  along  the  boundary,  from  a 
point  north  of  Panhunri  to  a point  just  north  of  Chomiomo, 
across  rolling  downs  rising  to  19,000  feet,  but  for  the 
remaining  distance  it  was  only  possible  to  reach  the  boun- 
dary at  a few  scattered  points  on  high  and  very  inaccessible 
passes.  My  explorations  to  ascertain  exactly  where  the 
watershed — the  proper  boundary — actually  lay,  com- 
menced from  Giaogong. 

From  the  camp  I made  for  the  west,  for  the  ridge 
running  north  from  Chomiomo,  accompanied  by  Iggulden 
and  Mr.  Dover  and  a few  Gurkha  orderlies.  We  rode  as 
far  as  we  could  and  then  had  to  dismount  to  negotiate  a 
very  steep  climb  before  reaching  the  ridge.  Before  we 
had  gone  very  far,  Iggulden  was  attacked  by  such  a severe 
mountain  headache  he  was  obliged  to  return  to  camp. 
I went  on,  and  on  reaching  the  ridge,  turned  south  towards 
Chomiomo  and  eventually  reached  a height  of  20,700  feet, 
where  I was  stopped  by  ice  and  snow  and  also  by  the  ad- 
vancing day  from  going  further. 

At  this  elevation  I sat  down  and  ate  my  lunch.  It  was 
a magnificent  afternoon  and  the  view  over  Tibet  was 
glorious.  Khamba-jong  was  distinctly  visible  and  also 
the  Everest  Group.  The  power  of  the  sun’s  rays  at  this 
height  and  in  the  very  clear  atmosphere  was  extraordinary, 
and  I have  never  before  or  since  felt  it  in  the  same  way. 
I was  obliged  to  keep  my  hands  in  the  shade  of  my  sun 
84 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

helmet,  for,  though  they  are  very  hard,  I could  not  stand 
the  heat  and  was  afraid  of  being  blistered.  But  there  is 
something  very  exhilarating  in  these  high  altitudes,  the 
tremendous  expanse  of  snow  around  gives  a feeling  of 
freedom  not  experienced  at  lower  elevations,  while  there  is 
always  a fascination  in  arriving  at  a summit  of  a mountain, 
particularly  when  the  unknown  is  on  the  other  side.  After 
sitting  for  some  time  drinking  in  the  delightfully  fresh 
atmosphere  and  admiring  the  view,  we  reluctantly  started 
down  the  ridge  on  our  return  to  camp  by  a somewhat 
roundabout  way,  but  one  which  appeared  a little  easier. 
We  had  not  gone  far,  however,  before  the  weather  changed, 
clouds  came  up  and  in  a few  minutes  it  began  to  snow  with 
a light  wind ; this  soon  changed  into  a blizzard,  and  we  had 
the  greatest  difficulty  in  reaching  the  camp,  where  we  did 
not  arrive  till  long  after  the  dinner  hour.  It  was  a very 
nasty  walk  in  the  dark  in  the  teeth  of  blinding  snow  over 
unknown  country.  Murray  and  Iggulden  were  getting 
anxious  and  thinking  of  sending  out  search  parties,  but  they 
had  no  idea  from  which  direction  I would  come.  A change 
to  dry  clothes  and  some  dinner  was  very  acceptable. 

Next  morning  everything  was  a sheet  of  snow,  which 
luckily  soon  melted  in  the  sun,  but  it  had  been  a cold  night 
for  the  sentries.  I was  expecting  some  of  the  Tibetan 
officials  to  come  along  the  disputed  boundary,  and  soon 
heard  that  they  had  arrived  at  the  Sebu-la  and  were  on  the 
way  to  my  camp.  I was  also  informed  that  the  Lhasa 
Government  had  sent  as  one  of  their  representatives  a 
man  named  Durkey  Sirdar,  a Darjeeling  rascal,  who  had 
been  obliged  to  fly  to  Tibet  to  escape  the  attentions  of  the 
police.  The  Tibetans  gave  as  their  reason  for  sending  him 
that  he  “ knew  our  ways.”  Of  course,  I absolutely  refused 
to  have  any  dealings  with  the  man,  and  gave  orders  he  was 
not  to  be  allowed  to  enter  the  camp,  and  told  the  Tibetans 
I could  have  no  dealings  with  them  until  they  sent  a proper 
representative.  I mention  this  incident  to  show  the 
curious  methods  on  which  the  Tibetans  work.  I have  no 
85 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

doubt  Durkey,  who  was  a clever  scoundrel,  had  impressed 
the  very  stupid  Tibetan  officials  in  Lhasa,  but  it  was  ex- 
traordinary they  should  believe  that  a man  of  his  character, 
which  they  knew,  would  be  accepted  by  us  as  their  repre- 
sentative. Durkey  held  a minor  post  under  the  Tibetans 
in  Yatung,  and  on  my  visits  I had  invariably  refused  to 
receive  him,  and  our  Government  ought  never  to  have 
allowed  him  to  remain  there. 

From  Giaogong  I moved  camp  to  Gyamtso-na,  a lake 
about  four  miles  up  the  valley.  It  was  a very  exposed  and 
cold  camp,  but  no  better  or  more  sheltered  place  was  to 
be  found.  From  this  camp  I surveyed  the  boundary 
from  Chomiomo,  working  east.  It  was  bitterly  cold  work 
for  the  native  surveyors  who  had  to  take  theodolite  readings 
at  elevations  up  to  20,000  feet.  All  the  work  had  to  be 
done  by  day,  and  during  the  day,  and  all  day,  the  wind 
blew  a small  gale,  it  never  stopped  for  a moment  till  the 
sun  went  down,  and  then  mercifully  we  nearly  always  had 
quiet  nights,  but  only  to  have  the  same  howling  wind  next 
day.  It  commenced  as  early  as  eight  o’clock  and  was  never 
later  than  ten-thirty.  It  was  a veritable  curse,  and  I was 
often  glad  to  lie  down  in  some  hollow  or  to  crouch  behind 
stones  so  as  to  be  out  of  it  even  for  a few  minutes. 

Murray  stayed  in  camp  with  his  escort,  but  Iggulden 
always  came  with  me  and  we  had  some  fine  rides  over  the 
wind-swept  heights.  There  was  not  much  game  to  be 
seen,  but  we  generally  managed  to  get  a Tibetan  antelope 
or  a brace  of  Tibetan  sand-grouse,  and  occasionally  we 
came  across  a solitary  male  kyang.  They  are  pretty 
creatures,  but  shy  when  not  in  herds,  and  they  generally 
made  off  in  a bee  line  for  the  plains  in  Tibet  across  the 
border. 

On  one  of  our  rides  we  were  lucky  enough  to  come 
across  some  fine  male  ovis  ammon.  Iggulden  saw  them  first 
up  a side  valley,  so  we  divided,  he  going  up  one  ravine  and 

I up  another.  I had  crawled  most  carefully  for  quite 

I I miles,  seeing  no  signs  of  them,  and  was  crouching  behind 

86 


NUNS  FROM  TA-TSHANG  NUNNERY 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
a rock,  having  almost  given  them  up,  when  suddenly  the 
whole  seven  charged  past  me  not  thirty  yards  off.  I 
knocked  over  two  and  hit  a third,  when  my  rifle  jammed 
and  I could  do  nothing  except  watch  the  remainder  make 
off  into  Tibet.  I only  succeeded  in  picking  up  one  of 
those  I hit,  where  the  other  got  to  I never  knew.  A little 
later  we  came  upon  the  flock  of  females,  who  were  quite 
tame  and  did  not  mind  us,  but  of  course  we  left  them  alone. 

I afterwards  found  that  there  were  one  or  two  flocks 
that  remained  permanently  in  the  valley,  and  even  in  the 
summer,  when  the  Tibetans  drive  their  flocks  of  sheep  up 
to  these  heights  to  graze,  they  do  not  leave. 

What  a flock  of  1500  to  2000  sheep  could  find  to  eat  in 
these  parts  was  a marvel.  Casually  looking  at  the  ground 
you  would  say  there  was  no  grass  on  it,  but  on  close  ex- 
amination a few  blades  appeared.  To  watch  the  flock 
grazing  on  these  few  and  scanty  blades  was  a curious  sight. 
The  sheep  literally  run  over  the  ground,  those  in  front 
eating  and  those  behind  running  on  ahead  to  find  an 
ungrazed  spot.  In  spite  of  this,  the  sheep  at  this  season 
fatten  quickly  and  are  excellent  eating,  which  proves  that 
the  sparse  pasturage  provides  a great  deal  of  nourish- 
ment. 

From  this  point  almost  the  only  habitation  visible  was 
the  Nunnery  of  Ta-tshang  which  stood  out  against  a lime- 
stone hill  and  across  an  apparently  enormous  plain.  We 
often  wished  to  visit  it,  but  of  course  could  not  cross  the 
boundary,  though  I subsequently  did  visit  it  when  encamped 
at  Khamba-jong  with  the  Tibet  Mission  in  1903.  That 
was  a red-letter  day  to  these  poor  creatures  who  live  here 
always  with  not  a single  other  habitation  in  sight.  They 
are  grossly  ignorant,  and  live  in  absolute  filth,  but  they  are 
good-natured  and  the  abbess  has  a good  face.  The  photo- 
graph shows  them  wearing  a curious  woollen  head-dress,  as 
their  own  heads  are  shaved. 

Our  next  camp,  Yeum-tsho,  was  in  a much  more  con- 
genial spot,  lying  right  behind  Kangchenjhau  and  sheltered 
87 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

from  the  south-west  monsoon  and  winds,  and  consequently 
dry.  It  was  situated  on  a flat  sandy  plain  with  a river 
meandering  through  it  and  with  many  round  pools,  sur- 
rounded by  rushes.  It  was  an  interesting  camp — ducks 
of  many  varieties  were  breeding  in  these  little  pools,  and 
the  sandy  plain  was  covered  with  larks’  nests,  while  the  old 
moraine  terraces  were  full  of  marmots  and  hares.  There 
were  also  a good  many  foxes  and  I saw  one  wolf.  Another 
day,  climbing  along  a ridge  of  moraine  about  six  miles 
from  camp,  I came  across  a Tibetan  lynx  with  two  cubs. 
I fired  at  the  lynx,  but  missed  it,  and  they  all  three  got 
into  inaccessible  holes  amongst  the  stones  and  I saw  no 
more  of  them.  It  was  a handsome  animal  and  no  doubt 
lived  well  on  both  the  wild  and  tame  sheep  in  the 
vicinity. 

A round  hill  to  the  north  above  the  camp  was  also  the 
run  of  a flock  of  ovis  ammon.  The  whole  hill  was  lined 
with  their  tracks,  and  they  would  come  out  in  the  evenings 
and  look  down  on  the  camp,  but  they  were  all  females 
with  not  a head  amongst  them. 

Our  doctor  was  a hopeless  individual,  who  hated  being 
at  this  elevation  and  loathed  the  cold,  and  I could  not 
induce  him  to  do  anything.  He  would  not  even  attempt 
to  collect  plants,  butterflies,  birds  or  geological  specimens 
— generally  lay  in  bed  until  the  bugle  sounded  for  meals, 
when  he  turned  up  only  to  go  to  bed  again  till  the  next 
meal.  It  seemed  a terrible  waste  of  opportunities,  and 
greatly  to  be  deplored,  that  on  an  occasion  like  this  a better 
selection  could  not  have  been  made.  Any  number  of  keen 
young  officers  would  have  given  a great  deal  to  be  allowed 
to  accompany  me,  and  would  have  thoroughly  appreciated 
so  unique  an  experience,  and  it  seems  extraordinary  that 
such  an  officer  was  not  sent. 

While  I was  encamped  here  I received  formal  visits 
from  the  small  Chinese  official  stationed  at  Giri,  and  also 
from  the  officials  fromTashi  Lhunpo,  who  came  to  pay  their 
respects. 


88 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 


I again  moved  camp  to  near  the  Cholamo  lakes,  a more 
exposed  position  on  account  of  the  keen  high  wind  blowing 
across  the  Donkia-la,  but  it  was  more  convenient  for  my 
work.  The  Khamba  Jongpen  paid  me  a visit  soon  after 
my  arrival. 

I left  the  escort  in  this  camp  for  a few  days  and  moved 
with  Iggulden,  and  very  light  loads,  to  a higher  camp  at  an 
elevation  of  18,600  feet.  We  pitched  our  tents  on  the 
lateral  moraine  above  the  magnificent  glacier  from  which 
the  river  Teesta  springs.  This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
glaciers  I have  ever  seen,  with  its  magnificent  sweep  down 
from  the  perpetual  snows.  It  also  shows  the  stratification 
of  the  ice  most  clearly  almost  the  whole  way  down. 

I waited  for  hours  to  get  a good  photograph,  and  in  the 
end  I was  successful,  although  I was  nearly  frozen  in  the 
attempt.  The  wind  swept  down  the  glacier  and  was  most 
bitterly  cold  and  with  it  some  light  clouds  kept  blowing 
almost  continuously  across  the  glacier  from  a small  gap 
on  the  left,  and  I had  to  wait  for  a clear  moment.  The 
result,  however,  repaid  me  for  my  trouble. 

Next  day  Iggulden  and  I started  out  to  climb  a snow 
peak  which  looked  like  the  watershed  at  the  head  of  the 
valley.  We  rode  our  mules  and  got  on  well  till  we  came  to 
almost  the  last  rise,  when  it  became  so  steep  we  had  to 
dismount.  The  mountain  side  was  not  only  very  steep, 
but  a mass  of  loose  rounded  stones,  and  very  difficult  for 
the  mules,  so  Iggulden  left  his  behind.  I,  however,  stuck 
to  mine,  and  was  able  to  ride  up  the  last  500  or  600  yards, 
which  were  comparatively  flat.  The  peak  proved  to  be 
21,600  feet  high,  and  I fancy  few  people  have  ridden  a mule 
at  that  elevation.  The  sun  was  terribly  hot  during  our 
climb  as  we  were  ascending  the  southern  face,  and  also 
there  was  a tremendous  glare  off  a huge  snow  field  coming 
down  from  Panhunri. 

At  some  remote  period,  the  whole  valley,  lying  between 
us  and  Panhunri,  must  have  been  filled  with  ice,  as  by  no 
other  means  could  the  hill  opposite  have  been  covered,  as 
89 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

it  is,  with  gneiss  moraine  debris,  the  mountain  itself  being 
shale. 

All  along  these  mountains  there  is  everywhere  evidence 
of  the  former  enormous  size  of  all  these  glaciers,  both  on 
the  north  and  south.  To  the  north,  moraine  debris  is 
found  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  within  Tibet,  and  boulders  of 
gneiss  are  found  on  limestone  hills  with  nothing  now  but 
huge  flat  plains  between  them  and  the  peaks  of  the 
Himalayas.  To  the  south,  along  all  the  valleys,  old 
lateral  moraines  extend  for  many  miles  and  in  many 
places  are  quite  distinct,  1000  feet  to  1500  feet  above  the 
present  river  level.  It  seems  almost  impossible  to  take  in 
the  fact  that  these  valleys  were  once  filled  with  ice,  or  to 
imagine  what  these  mountains  were  like  in  former  days,  as 
the  moraine  debris  now  showing,  would  by  itself  form 
mountains  as  high  as  those  we  have  in  England  without 
taking  into  account  the  enormous  quantites  of  silt  carried 
down  by  the  rivers  during  these  ages. 

The  rainfall  in  these  parts  is  very  heavy,  and  this  very 
great  alteration  in  the  glaciers  can,  I suppose,  only  be 
accounted  for  by  the  gradual  change  of  temperature, 
although  theoretically,  in  accordance  with  the  scientific 
opinion  held  by  many  authorities,  that  the  Himalayas  are 
still  being  elevated  by  the  contraction  of  the  earth’s 
surface,  the  mountains  must  in  those  days  have  been  more 
massive  if  individual  peaks  were  not  higher.  From  this 
point  we  had  a splendid  view  of  the  Bam-tsho  and  Yeum-tsho 
lakes,  of  which  I had  known  for  some  years,  but  had  not 
seen  before,  with  Chomolhari  in  the  background,  standing 
up  splendidly  against  the  blue  sky.  The  panorama  of 
interminable  ranges  in  Tibet  was  also  very  impressive, 
although  gloomy,  and  I wished  I could  march  into  the  then 
forbidden  land. 

The  survey  of  this  portion  of  the  boundary  finished,  I 
returned  to  Thangu  in  order  to  reach  the  Lonak  valley  via 
the  Nangna-la.  It  was  a very  roundabout,  and  very 
difficult  route,  and  took  several  days  longer  than  if  I had 

90 


LONAK  VALLEY 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
gone  direct  to  the  Naku-la,  crossing  a small  portion  of 
Tibet,  but  as  I was  debarred  from  entering  Tibet,  I had  to 
make  the  best  of  the  bad  track. 

I reconnoitred  the  Nangna-la  and  found  it  deep  in 
snow,  with  large  snow  cornices  on  the  western  side,  where  the 
snow  lay  deep  to  nearly  the  bottom  of  the  valley.  At  the 
best  of  times  the  pass  is  a difficult  one,  especially  for  yak 
transport,  as  the  descent  is  over  a succession  of  terraces 
which  were  covered  with  snow  and  exceedingly  dangerous. 
At  this  time  of  year  the  snow  was,  of  course,  melting,  and 
yaks  cannot  travel  over  soft  snow.  However,  we  were 
obliged  to  go  on,  and  taking  as  many  coolies  as  I could 
muster  to  help  us,  we  set  out.  The  ascent  was  comparatively 
easy,  but  soon  our  difficulties  commenced.  On  reaching 
the  pass,  the  snow  cornices  had  to  be  cut  away  to  make  a 
passage  for  the  yaks,  and  the  soft  snow  on  the  west  side 
had  to  be  trampled  down  to  enable  them  to  go  over  it. 
It  was  a wonderful  sight  to  see  the  loaded  animals  cleverly 
negotiate  these  huge  steps,  and  they  eventually  got  down, 
somewhat  late,  but  with  no  mishap.  It  was  a difficult 
climb  even  for  a man,  and  in  one  place  I came  upon  the 
doctor,  very  miserable,  who  had  got  himself  into  rather 
a tight  corner,  and  with  some  trouble  I got  him  out  of  his 
difficult  position  and  down  some  rather  nasty  smooth, 
slippery  rocks,  when  he  cheered  up  a little. 

We  pitched  our  camp  at  Teble,  again  in  a dry  climate, 
but  I did  not  remain  long  there,  but  moved  on  to  Pashi 
which,  lying  further  up  the  valley,  was  more  convenient 
for  survey  work.  While  surveying  and  exploring  the 
valley  and  its  offshoots,  I discovered  many  lakes  of  glacial 
origin,  in  one  place  a fine  chain  of  five,  called  the  Kora-tsho. 

There  were  numbers  of  burhel  ( Ovis  nahura)  in  this 
valley,  but  no  ovis  ammon,  and  very  little  else,  with  the 
exception  of  marmots,  of  which  there  were  some  large 
warrens,  and  a few  duck  and  solitary  snipe  on  the  marshes, 
in  the  beds  of  the  old  partly  silted-up  lakes. 

By  this  time  I had  again  left  behind  me  the  undulating 

91 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

hills  so  characteristic  of  parts  of  Tibet  and  was  again  to  the 
south  of  the  main  Himalayan  range.  The  peaks  in  this 
part  of  the  boundary  are  magnificent,  and  all  the  way  up  the 
valley  of  the  Lungpo-chhu  the  scenery  is  splendid.  To  the 
north  lies  the  chain  of  hills  which  bound  Sikhim,  and  to 
the  south  the  magnificent  peak  of  Kangchenjunga,  with  the 
range  running  from  it  to  the  north,  which,  combined  with 
the  huge  glaciers  coming  down  on  all  sides  makes  up  a 
splendid  picture  which  is  not  easy  to  surpass  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world. 

From  my  camp  in  the  Lungpo-chhu  I went  up  to  the 
Chorten  Nema-la,  a difficult  pass,  but  occasionally  used  by 
Tibetan  graziers  bringing  their  flocks  and  herds  to  graze  in 
this  valley.  The  southern  side  is  a scree  for  some  thou- 
sands of  feet,  and  the  northern  is  a glacier,  and  I should 
think  a difficult  one  to  climb.  It  was  a very  weird  spot, 
and  the  pinnacles  of  bare  rock  starting  out  of  the  snow  on 
the  top  of  the  pass  gave  it  a very  wild  and  most  distinctive 
character. 

One  of  my  most  interesting  journeys  from  this  camp  was 
to  the  head  of  the  valley.  This  I found  filled  by  an  enor- 
mous glacier  which  I suddenly  came  upon  looming  out  of 
the  mist,  a sheer  wall  of  perpendicular  ice  some  forty  to 
fifty  feet  high.  I managed  to  climb  this  in  one  place,  and 
went  for  some  miles  along  the  top,  which  was  almost  quite 
flat,  but  the  weather  was  bad,  and  it  commenced  to  snow, 
and  I had  to  retrace  my  footsteps.  Unfortunately  I never 
had  the  time  or  opportunity  to  explore  further  up.  Coming 
suddenly  upon  these  glaciers  on  a misty  day,  they  look  very 
weird,  standing  out  in  ghostlike  shapes,  the  stratification 
of  the  ice  adding  to  their  peculiar  appearance.  In  sunlight 
they  are  quite  different  and  look  very  beautiful,  as  the 
colouring  in  the  ice  is  then  seen  to  perfection.  Once,  while 
exploring  down  the  glacier,  I came  upon  the  most  beautiful 
sight  I have  ever  seen.  The  glacier  was  cut  up  into  a 
succession  of  huge  ice  waves  and  looked  exactly  like  an 
angry  sea  suddenly  frozen  solid.  The  ice  hummocks  were 
92 


EXPEDITIONS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 
in  many  places  fifty  to  sixty  feet  high,  and  between  them 
were  the  most  enchanting  ice  lakes  of  an  exquisite  turquoise 
blue,  while  the  colours  in  the  surrounding  ice  varied,  as  the 
sun’s  rays  caught  it,  in  all  shades  of  deep  blue,  green, 
violet,  and  almost  prismatic  colours  in  places.  Some  of 
these  little  lakes  might  have  been  in  fairy -land  they  were  so 
lovely,  and  my  photograph  cannot  do  them  justice,  as  it 
only  produces  the  colour  in  shades  of  black  and  white. 

As  I could  only  demarcate  certain  accessible  points  on 
this  part  of  the  boundary,  I soon  finished  my  work  and 
returned  to  Thangu,  to  find  that  Coleridge  had  been  working 
hard  during  my  absence  on  the  road  leading  towards 
Nangna-la  and  had  made  quite  a passable  path.  I only 
remained  a few  days  in  Thangu,  just  long  enough  to  settle 
accounts  and  to  pay  the  head  men  of  the  district  for  trans- 
port, &c.,  and  then  returned  to  Gangtak,  having  completed 
the  object  for  which  I had  been  sent  on  the  expedition. 


93 


CHAPTER  XI 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SIKHIM 

Under  the  rules  of  the  Public  Works  Department  to  which 
I was  originally  appointed  when  I came  to  India,  I had  to 
retire,  on  reaching  the  age  of  fifty-five,  in  October  1908. 
In  many  ways  I was  glad  to  return  to  England,  and  looked 
forward  to  the  prospect  of  enjoying  a little  leisure  after  my 
thirty-two  years  of  almost  continuous  service,  as,  during 
that  time,  I had  only  been  on  leave  for  one  year  and  five 
months.  Again,  in  other  ways  I would  have  been  glad  to 
remain  for  a short  time  longer,  as  the  time  was  a critical 
one  for  both  Sikhim  and  Bhutan,  and  required  some  one  at 
the  head  of  affairs  with  an  intimate  knowledge  of  the 
various  outs  and  ins,  and  side-issues  inseparable  from  the 
administration  of  a native  State.  I had  not  even  the 
satisfaction  of  knowing  I was  leaving  matters  in  the  hands 
of  an  officer  whom  I had  trained  to  the  special  necessities 
of  the  case,  as  I have  never  had  an  officer  deputed  as  my 
general  assistant,  although  for  years  I have  corresponded 
with  Government  on  the  subject.  The  assistants  I did 
have,  Messrs.  O’Connor,  Bailey,  and  Campbell,  were  each 
in  turn  placed  in  charge  of  Tibetan  and  Trade  affairs  and 
had  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  Bhutan  and  Sikhim. 
Quite  apart  from  the  fact  that,  as  the  work  and  responsibility 
had  increased  so  enormously,  it  was  impossible  for  one  man 
to  carry  it  on  properly,  it  was  bad  policy  not  to  have 
some  one  ready  to  fill  my  place  should  I wish  to  go  on 
leave  or  in  case  of  illness  or  breakdown.  If  you  consider 
94 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SIKHIM 

that  single-handed  I had  to  deal,  in  Sikhim  alone,  with  the 
various  departments  which  in  other  districts  are  placed, 
each  in  charge  of  a special  officer  and  staff.  Police,  Revenue* 
Forests,  Education,  Excise,  Agriculture,  Public  Works, 
Judicial,  Administrative,  in  addition  to  the  whole  of  the 
Tibetan  and  Bhutan  correspondence  and  negotiations,  it 
is  not  surprising  I applied  for  an  assistant  officer,  but  the 
Government  of  India  considered  my  request  superfluous, 
and  I had  to  manage  as  best  I could  with  my  office  staff 
under  Mr.  Hodges  the  superintendent  and  the  services  of  a 
State  engineer.  Mr.  Hodges  served  under  me  for  eighteen 
years,  and  the  office  was  always  in  a state  of  efficiency  and 
good  order,  while  I was  exceptionally  fortunate  in  my  two 
engineers,  Mr.  Dover,  who  accompanied  Mr.  Douglas 
Freshfield  on  his  journey  to  the  snows,  and  later  Mr. 
Hickley,  than  whom  one  could  not  find  a more  energetic 
and  painstaking  officer. 

The  time  was  critical  for  Sikhim  in  several  ways  : the 
industries  I had  introduced,  apple  growing,  cloth  weaving, 
carpet  manufacture,  still  required  careful  fostering,  while 
the  mining  industry  was  barely  in  its  infancy.  The  Maha- 
raja and  Maharani  had  at  last  been  aroused  and  were  keen 
to  improve  their  country,  but  perhaps  the  most  serious 
matter  was  the  approaching  return  of  the  Maharaj  Kumar, 
who  had  spent  a couple  of  years  in  England  and  part  of  the 
time  at  Pembroke  College,  Oxford.  Relations  had  never 
been  quite  satisfactory  between  him  and  the  Maharaja, 
partly,  I think,  owing  to  his  jealousy  of  the  influence  exer- 
cised over  his  father  by  his  stepmother,  the  present 
Maharani,  and  at  this  juncture  more  than  ever  a strong 
hand  was  needed  in  addition  to  full  sympathy  with  the  lad 
and  an  intimate  knowledge  of  former  events,  and  I fear  my 
successor  has  a difficult  task  before  him. 

In  Bhutan  new  relations,  which,  at  the  risk  of  being 
considered  conceited,  I must  I am  afraid  put  down  as 
greatly  personal  to  myself,  had  been  opened  up  after  many 
years  of  complete  isolation,  and  the  Maharaja  was  full  of 
95 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

schemes  for  the  improvement  and  betterment  of  his  country, 
and  I would  have  given  a great  deal  to  see  him  put  on  his 
way  before  leaving. 

As  soon  as  they  realised  the  time  for  my  departure 
was  drawing  appreciably  near,  the  Maharajas  and  people 
of  both  countries  sent  petitions  signed  by  all  members  of 
the  community  to  the  Viceroy,  praying  for  an  extension  of 
my  services,  and  when  the  first  petition  was  rejected,  they 
appealed  more  than  once  against  the  decision,  and  the 
Maharaja  and  Maharani  of  Sikhim  travelled  to  Calcutta 
and  personally  made  their  request  to  Lord  Minto. 

Had  the  Viceroy’s  answer  to  the  petition  been  favour- 
able, I might  have  remained  on  for  a year  or  two  more,  but 
my  health  had  begun  to  fail,  and  the  hard  work  and  ex- 
posure to  tell  on  me,  and  I was  really  anxious  to  return  to 
England,  so  in  April,  1908,  I took  leave  preparatory  to 
retirement,  and  was  succeeded  by  Mr.  Bell,  I.C.S. 

For  weeks  before  my  departure  the  house  was  besieged 
by  the  people  from  far  and  near,  all  anxious  to  bid  me  good- 
bye, or  to  ask  some  special  favour  before  I gave  up  the  reins 
of  office.  I knew  them  all  and  their  affairs,  their  family 
histories,  their  small  quarrels,  and  their  ambitions,  and  they 
always  came  freely  to  me  for  advice  and  redress,  knowing  I 
was  always  accessible  and  would  not  refuse  to  see  any  one, 
Lepcha,  Bhutia,  or  Paharia.  I knew  their  ways  and  they 
trusted  and  liked  me,  and  never  thought  of  withholding 
anything  from  me,  and  in  consequence  a mutual  confidence 
and  affection  had  sprung  up  between  us  which  made  the 
parting  hard.  I was  leaving  a people  I loved,  and  in  whose 
service  I had  spent  the  best  years  of  my  life,  and  they  felt 
they  were  losing  a trusted  friend  on  whom  they  had  learnt 
to  rely. 

At  last  the  time  came  for  my  final  departure,  everything 
was  packed  and  despatched  to  England,  and  the  house 
stood  bare  and  dismantled,  but  the  garden  and  flowers  were 
more  beautiful  than  usual.  But  we  were  not  to  leave  even 
that  behind  us,  for  on  the  last  afternoon  a terrific  hail- 

96 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SIKHIM 

storm  came  on,  the  worst  I have  ever  experienced  in  these 
hills,  and  before  nightfall  not  a vestige  of  blossom  or  leaf 
was  left.  It  sounds  an  exaggeration,  but  many  of  the 
hailstones  were  the  size  of  golf-balls  and  weighed  two 
and  three  ounces.  When  morning  came  the  trees  stood  up 
bare  and  wintry  against  the  sky  without  a leaf ; tree-ferns, 
rose-bushes,  everything,  were  nothing  but  leafless  stems 
where  twenty-four  hours  before  there  had  been  a wealth  of 
blossom.  Even  the  lawns  were  pitted  all  over  by  the  force 
of  the  hailstones.  The  conservatory,  built  of  |-inch- thick 
ribbed  glass,  which  had  stood  all  former  storms,  was  smashed 
to  atoms,  and  so  were  the  lights  in  the  verandahs.  The 
Maharaja  and  Maharani  were  with  us  at  the  time,  and 
exclaimed  that  the  gods  were  showing  their  displeasure  at 
my  departure,  an  opinion  endorsed  by  all  the  natives. 

So  it  was  a scene  of  sad  desolation  to  which  we  bid 
good-bye  next  morning,  as,  accompanied  by  the  Maha- 
raja, and  preceded  by  the  pipers  of  Mr.  Hickley’s  Sikhim 
Pioneers,  we  took  our  way  down  the  hill  for  the  last  time, 
with  the  whole  populace  lining  the  roads  to  bid  us  god- 
speed and  filling  the  air  with  lamentations. 

Throughout  the  journey  the  same  scene  was  enacted, 
the  headmen  and  villagers  of  every  village  we  passed 
coming  out  to  kiss  my  feet  and  weep  over  me,  and  I was 
glad  when  we  were  at  last  in  the  train  at  Ghoom. 

The  night  before  I left  Gangtak  I received  no  less  than 
two  coolie-loads  of  letters  from  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk  and 
his  family,  and  from  all  the  Bhutan  officials,  both  great 
and  small,  expressing  the  hope  that  I would  some  day 
return  and  visit  them  as  a private  individual  if  I could  no 
longer  come  officially.  Rai  Ugyen  Kazi  Bahadur  and  his 
sister  met  us  below  Kurseong  with  Bhutanese  refreshments 
of  tea  and  fruit,  laid  out  by  the  roadside  for  the  last  time, 
and  we  parted  with  many  expressions  of  mutual  goodwill, 
while  Rai  Harri  Das  Bahadur,  Lambodar,  Luchmi  Narain, 
and  all  the  leading  Paharias  saw  me  actually  into  the 
train. 

97  c 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

The  different  communities  subscribed  to  present  me 
with  farewell  addresses,  which  under  the  Government  rules 
I was  unable  to  accept  until  after  my  retirement,  and  they 
were  sent  to  me  in  England  later  on. 

And  so  ended  my  twenty  years’  connection  with  the 
little  State  of  Sikhim ; but  I still  hope  some  day,  should  my 
health  allow  of  it,  to  revisit  both  Sikhim  and  Bhutan,  in 
which  countries  and  amongst  whose  people  I have  spent 
so  many  happy  years  and  whose  people  I have  grown  to 
love. 


98 


CHAPTER  XII 

HISTORY  OF  THE  FOUNDING  OF  BHUTAN 

The  early  history  of  this  remarkable  country  is  enveloped 
in  great  obscurity,  for  unfortunately,  owing  to  fire,  earth- 
quake, flood,  and  internecine  wars,  its  annals,  which  had 
been  carefully  recorded,  were  destroyed.  The  burning  of 
Poonakha  in  1832  and  the  widespread  destruction  of 
buildings  by  the  earthquake  of  1897  were  particularly 
noticeable  in  this  connection.  The  latter  disaster  is  respon- 
sible for  the  almost  total  destruction  of  the  library  of  the 
present  Tongsa  Penlop,  only  a few  MSS.,  from  which  I 
have  gathered  some  information,  having  escaped.  Their 
great  printing  establishment  at  Sonagachi  was  burnt  down 
about  eighty  years  ago. 

The  earliest  legend  we  hear  of  is  that  one  Sangaldip, 
emerging  from  the  environs  of  Kooch  (whether  from  Bhutan 
or  Assam  is  obscure),  subdued  the  countries  of  Bengal  and 
Behar,  fighting  against  Raja  Kedur  of  Lakhnante,  or  Gaur, 
and  was  in  his  turn  defeated  by  Piran-Visah,  general  of 
Afrasiab,  King  of  Turan,  or  Tartary.  This  was  about  the 
seventh  century  before  the  Christian  era. 

We  next  hear  that  in  the  middle  of  the  eighth  century 
a.d.  the  Indian  saint  Padma  Sambhava  converted  Bhutan 
to  the  Buddhist  faith.  The  chief  rulers  at  that  time  were 
the  Khiji-khar-thod  of  Khempalung,  in  Upper  Pumthang, 
and  Naguchhi,  King  of  Sindhu.  The  site  of  the  latter’s 
palace,  Chagkhar  Gome  (the  iron  fort  without  doors),  is 
still  visible.  Naguchhi,  the  second  son  of  King  Singhala 
99 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

of  Serkhya,  founded  the  kingdom  of  Sindhu,  while  his  sons 
extended  his  realm  to  Dorji-Tag  and  Hor  in  Tibet  and  as 
far  as  Sikhim.  In  the  course  of  a war  with  Raja  Nabudara, 
who  lived  in  the  plains  of  India,  the  eldest  son  was  killed, 
and  Naguchhi  was  consequently  plunged  into  grief.  It  was 
at  this  juncture  that  the  saint  Padma  arrived  on  the  scene, 
and  with  the  aid  of  the  king’s  daughter,  Menmo  J ashi  Kye- 
den,  who  possessed  the  twenty-one  marks  of  fairy  beauty, 
restored  the  king  to  happiness  and  saved  his  soul.  The 
struggle  with  the  demons  lasted  for  seven  days,  and  at  the 
end  of  that  week  marks  of  the  saint’s  body  appeared 
in  the  solid  rock.  The  legend  further  goes  on  to  say 
that  the  fir-tree  growing  beside  the  cave  was  the  alpen- 
stock of  the  saint,  who,  like  St.  Joseph  at  Glastonbury, 
made  the  stick  to  grow.  Naguchhi  appears  to  have  been 
a second  King  Solomon,  as  it  is  recorded  that  all  the 
most  beautiful  women  of  India  and  Tibet  were  taken 
to  wife  by  the  king,  and  that  they  numbered  a hundred 
in  all. 

The  rival  King  Nabudara  was  also  converted  to  Bud- 
dhism by  the  saint,  and  peace  was  restored  to  the  land,  and 
a boundary  pillar  set  up  at  Mna-tong.  This  kingdom,  how- 
ever, lasted  only  another  hundred  years,  and  was  destroyed 
by  Tibetan  hordes  in  the  time  of  Lan-darma,  the  apostate 
King  of  Tibet,  who  reigned  about  the  years  861-900  a.d. 
Some  two  centuries  later  Bhutan  was  occupied  by  the 
followers  of  King  Tiral-chan. 

The  subsequent  fate  of  Bhutan  is  wholly  connected 
with  the  origin  and  the  spread  of  the  Dukpa  sect,  founded 
by  Yeses  Dorji  at  Ralung.  Yeses,  or  Gro-Gong-Tshangpa- 
Gyal-ras,  was  born  in  1160  and  died  in  1210  a.d. 

A young  lama  from  China  came  to  his  successor, 
Sangye-on,  and  was  given  the  name  of  Fago-Duk-gom- 
Shigpo.  After  studying  at  Ralong  for  some  years  he  was 
sent  to  Bhutan,  and  settled  at  Cheri  Dordam,  where  he  lived 
with  his  wife  and  family.  His  fame  soon  spread,  and  aroused 
the  jealousy  of  Lhapha,  a rival  lama  already  resident  in 
100 


HISTORY  OF  THE  FOUNDING  OF  BHUTAN 
Bhutan.  Quarrels  arose,  and  Lhapha,  after  an  unsuc- 
cessful attack  on  Cheri,  was  totally  defeated,  and  had 
to  fly.  In  his  flight  he  came  to  the  Am-mo-chhu  Valley, 
where  he  was  warmly  received  by  the  villagers,  who  sub- 
mitted to  him.  Lhapha,  however,  treacherously  betrayed 
them  to  the  Tibetans,  who  thereupon  seized  the  valley. 
Lhapha’ s settlement  is  recognised  in  the  valley  to  this 
day. 

Having  got  rid  of  his  rival,  Duk-gom’s  power  increased 
greatly,  and  the  conversion  of  the  Bhutanese  to  Buddhism 
was  further  assisted  by  the  advent  of  four  other  lamas,  who 
belonged,  however,  to  different  sects,  and  were  not  Dukpas. 
But  although  so  many  saints  visited  Bhutan  and  settled 
there,  founding  temples  and  monasteries,  yet  they  only 
served  as  heralds  to  symbolise  or  portray  the  final  auspicious 
advent  of  the  peerless  Dukpa  Rimpochi,  Nawang  Du-gom 
Dorji,  who  brought  Bhutan  under  one  ruling  power  and 
control. 

Du-gom  Dorji,  better  known  as  Shabdung  Nawang 
Mamgyel,  was  the  son  of  Dorji  Lenpa  Mepham  Tempai 
Nymia,  a man  of  noble  lineage,  by  the  daughter  of  Deba 
Kyishopa,  and  showed  remarkable  intellectual  precocity  ; 
even  as  a child  his  carvings  were  marvellous  in  beauty 
and  symmetry  of  workmanship.  The  date  of  his  birth  is 
supposed  to  be  1534  a.d.  He  studied  under  the  Dukpa 
lama,  Padma  Karpo,  at  Ralong,  and  bid  fair  to  succeed  to 
the  Hierarch’s  chair ; but  a rival  claimant,  Kerma  Tenk- 
gong  Wangpo,  backed  by  Deba  Tsang-pa,  was  too  strong 
for  him,  so  the  Shabdung,  in  disgust,  started  on  a long 
pilgrimage,  and  finally  entered  Bhutan  by  the  Lingzi  Pass 
in  1557  a.d.,  in  his  twenty-third  year,  and  lived  to  be 
fifty-eight.  During  these  thirty-five  years  he  was  con- 
tinuously engaged  in  warfare  and  in  consolidating  his 
temporal  as  well  as  his  spiritual  power.  The  opposition 
of  the  Deba  Tsang-pa,  of  the  Ralong  Hierarch,  and  of  the 
descendants  of  the  four  lamas  mentioned  before  constantly 
involved  him  in  serious  fighting.  The  Tibetans  five  or 
101 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

six  times  attempted  unsuccessfully  to  conquer  Bhutan,  and 
even  penetrated  as  far  as  Simtoka,  but  each  time  were 
driven  back  or  captured  en  masse.  The  booty  obtained 
from  the  vanquished  greatly  increased  the  wealth  of  the 
Shabdung  Rimpochi,  whose  fame  spread  to  India  and  as 
far  as  Ladakh.  Raja  Padma  Narayan  of  Cooch  Behar 
sought  his  friendship  and  sent  presents,  as  did  Drabya  Sahi 
and  Purandar  Sahi  of  Nepal. 

It  was  at  this  time  that  some  foreigners  from  a dis- 
tant country  beyond  the  ocean  called  Parduku  (Portugal) 
brought  some  guns  and  gunpowder  of  a new  sort  and  a 
telescope,  and  offered  their  services,  which  were,  however, 
refused,  as  to  accept  them  would  have  been  against  the 
religious  principles  of  true  Buddhism. 

Most  of  the  big  monasteries  and  forts  date  from  his 
reign,  although  few  of  them  have  escaped  fire  and  earth- 
quake. Practically  Simtoka,  first  built  in  1570,  but  re- 
built in  1572,  after  its  recapture  from  the  insurgents,  is  the 
only  building  now  existing  in  its  original  form.  Perhaps 
the  next  oldest  is  Paro-jong,  originally  started  as  a school 
of  medicine,  but  burnt  down  in  1907.  All  other  buildings 
have  either  been  rebuilt  or  enlarged.  Poonakha  was 
founded  in  15 77,  and  designed  to  accommodate  600  monks. 
The  Dharma  Raja,  when  remonstrated  with  for  planning 
such  an  enormous  house,  replied  that  the  building  would 
in  time  be  found  much  too  small.  When  I was  there  in 
1905  there  were  at  least  1500  monks  in  residence.  Angdu- 
phodang  was  begun  in  1578,  and  Tashi-cho-jong  in  1581, 
and  the  Shabdung’s  quarters  still  exist  in  the  western  end 
of  the  fort  at  Tongsa. 

The  lama  Du-gom  Dorji  was  something  of  a humorist. 
During  the  rejoicings  at  a notable  victory  over  the  Tibetans 
at  Poonakha  he  was  asked  if  he  thought  it  likely  they 
would  return  or  send  any  more  expeditions  against  Bhutan. 
He  replied  l “ Oh,  there  is  no  assurance  they  will  not  come 
again,  but  as  they  never  do  any  harm  to  us  it  will  be  all 
right.  This  time  we  have  a sufficiency  of  armour  and 

102 


HISTORY  OF  THE  FOUNDING  OF  BHUTAN 
weapons ; we  will  in  future  indent  for  some  tea  and 
silks.”  The  saying  subsequently  turned  out  to  be  a 
prophecy. 

To  quote  the  Tibetan  chronicler  : “ In  the  intervals  of 
peace  the  Dharma  Raja  devoted  himself  with  full  energy 
to  his  various  State  duties,  founding  a body  of  priesthood, 
providing  for  and  controlling  them,  giving  instruction  to 
those  who  were  serious  seekers  after  truth  ; in  short,  he  was 
pastor,  abbot,  psalmist,  rector,  superintendent  of  carving 
(for  printing  purposes),  architect  of  State  and  monastic 
buildings,  overseer  of  bookbinding  and  other  embellish- 
ments of  the  Kagyur  library,  settlement  officer,  chief  com- 
mandant of  the  forces  for  quelling  foreign  aggressions,  chief 
protector  and  ruler  of  his  own  adherents  and  followers, 
chief  avenger  and  punisher  of  those  who  were  inimical  to 
the  cause  of  Buddhism  and  the  public  peace.  He  was  all 
these  in  one  person,  and  fulfilled  the  duties  right  thoroughly 
and  efficiently.  He  introduced  law  into  lawless  Bhutan. 
His  boast  was  that  he  never  wasted  any  time  in  idleness  or 
selfish  ease.”  For  the  better  ecclesiastical  and  temporal 
administration  he  appointed  two  of  the  monks  who  had 
come  with  him  from  Ralong,  one,  Nay-tan-Pay-kor-Jungnay, 
to  be  the  chief  Khempo,  or  abbot,  whose  duties  were  to 
enforce  the  strict  observance  of  priestly  vows  among  the 
priests,  direct  their  studies,  and  preside  at  the  ceremonies ; 
the  other  was  Tenzing  Dukgyag,  the  Amsed  or  prior  of 
Ralong,  who  was  the  first  Dug  Desi  or  Deb  Raja,  whose 
duties  were  to  attend  to  the  general  administraton  of  the 
State,  to  deal  with  foreign  Powers,  to  manage  income, 
revenue,  and  other  resources  of  the  State,  to  provide  the 
lamas  with  food,  and,  in  short,  to  look  after  the  State, 
while  the  Dharma  Raja  and  the  Khempo  devoted  them- 
selves to  the  Church.  This  dual  administration  must  be 
borne  in  mind  when  considering  foreign  relations ; and  it 
must  also  be  carefully  realised  that  Bhutan  is  wholly 
an  ecclesiastical  State,  that  the  Church  is  all  in  all  with 
the  Bhutanese. 


103 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Such  was  the  character  of  the  first  Shabdung  Rimpochi. 
After  his  death  three  reincarnations  appeared ; that  of  his 
body  became  the  Dharma  Raja,  that  of  his  voice  the  Chole 
Tulku,  and  that  of  his  mind  theThi  Rimpochi — an  incarna- 
tion now  dying  out,  owing  to  the  misconduct  of  the  present 
incumbent. 


104 


CHAPTER  XIII 
MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 


From  Gangtak  to  Tashi-cho-jong.  Choice  of  routes.  The 
Natu-la  in  bad  weather.  Deputation  in  the  Chumbi  Valley. 
Entering  Bhutan.  The  Hah-la  and  Meru-la.  Punishment  for 
murder.  Leather  cannon.  Paro.  The  Penlop’s  wives.  Paro- 
jong.  Turner’s  description.  Eden’s  description.  Dug-gye. 
Weeping  cypress  at  Chalimaphe.  The  quarrel  between  Ugyen 
Wang-chuk  and  Aloo  Dorji.  Murder  of  Poonakha  Jongpen. 
Tashi-cho-jong. 


One  of  the  most  pleasant  duties  I had  to  perform  while 
holding  my  appointment  was  when  the  Government  of 
India  deputed  me  to  proceed  to  Bhutan  in  1905  to  present 
the  insignia  of  a Knight  Commander  of  the  Indian  Empire 
to  my  friend  Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  as  a 
recognition  of  the  services  he  had  rendered  to  the  British 
Government  at  the  time  of  our  mission  to  Lhasa.  Major 
F.  W.  Rennick  accompanied  me  to  represent  the  Intelli- 
gence Department,  and  Mr.  A.  W.  Paul,  C.I.E.,  late  of  the 
I.C.S.,  came  out  from  England  in  response  to  the  Tongsa’s 
invitation.  I also  took,  as  my  confidential  clerk,  Rai 
Lobzang  Choden  Sahib  and  an  escort  of  twenty-four 
sepoys,  with  some  pipes  and  drums  of  the  40th  Pathans 
under  Subadar  Jehandad  Khan,  two  Sikhim  Pioneers  and 
two  Sikhim  police,  in  addition  to  the  usual  following  of 
chupprassies  and  servants. 

This  was  the  first  occasion  for  forty  years  that  an 
Englishman  had  visited  Bhutan,  and  was  a sharp  contrast 
to  the  visit  paid  by  Eden  in  1864,  when  every  obstacle 
105 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

was  placed  in  his  way  and  every  discourtesy  shown  him. 
I had  more  than  once  received  the  most  hospitable  and 
pressing  invitations  from  the  Tongsa  to  visit  him  on  the 
first  possible  opportunity,  and  was  only  too  glad  now  to  be 
able  to  accept  his  hospitality. 

I had  in  the  first  instance  to  make  a selection  of  the 
route  by  which  it  would  be  best  to  travel,  making  due 
allowance  for  the  season  and  state  of  the  roads.  There 
were  at  least  four  known  routes : 

1.  The  Buxa-Poonakha  route,  used  by  Bogle  in  1774 
and  Turner  in  1783,  when  they  entered  Bhutan,  and  by 
the  Bhutanese  officials  when  they  came  for  the  annual 
subsidy  paid  to  Bhutan  by  the  Indian  Government ; but 
on  a previous  visit  to  Buxa  I had  ascertained  that  the 
first  few  marches  were  extremely  bad,  and  also  that  the 
Bhutanese  themselves  did  not  recommend  it. 

2.  That  via  Dewangiri,  which  leads  directly  to  Tongsa, 
and  was  traversed  by  Pemberton  in  1837-38 ; but  this  I 
found  would  be  hot  and  difficult,  and,  as  the  most  easterly 
one,  too  far  removed  from  headquarters. 

3.  The  road  via  Sipchu  to  Hah  and  Paro,  along  which 
Eden  travelled  in  1864.  The  first  portion  of  this  was 
reported  to  be  in  very  bad  order  and  impracticable  for 
laden  animals,  added  to  which  the  crossing  of  the  Tegon-la 
would  probably  be  more  difficult  than  crossing  the  higher 
pass,  the  Natu-la. 

4.  I therefore  decided  on  the  route  which,  on  leaving 
Gangtak,  crosses  the  Natu-la  into  the  Am-mo-chhu  Valley, 
thence  over  the  Massong-chung-dong  range  into  the  Hah 
Valley,  and  thence  to  follow  Eden’s  route. 

I originally  proposed  starting  in  February,  to  avoid 
the  heavy  storms  usual  in  March,  and  to  arrive  at  Poonakha 
before  the  summer  heat  and  consequent  migration  of  the 
Court  to  Tashi-cho-jong.  But  unforeseen  circumstances 
delayed  me  till  the  very  end  of  March.  All  the  previous 
week  there  had  been  heavy  storms,  and  the  snow  and 
wind  were  so  bad  that  Colonel  Burn,  of  the  40th  Pathans, 
106 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
commanding  at  Chumbi,  took  thirteen  hours  between 
Champitang  and  Chongu,  a distance  of  ten  miles,  and  had 
to  abandon  his  transport ; and  two  days  later  my  party 
found  the  bodies  of  two  coolies  out  of  a batch  going  to 
work  on  the  Am-mo-chhu  Survey,  who  had  perished  from 
exposure  to  the  cold  on  the  top  of  the  Natu-la. 

We  finally  left  Gangtak  on  March  29,  travelling  for  the 
first  six  miles  over  an  excellent  road,  which  during  the 
late  expedition  to  Lhasa  was  widened  sufficiently  for 
wheeled  traffic,  and  for  the  remaining  distance  to  Karpo- 
nang,  our  first  halting-place,  over  a good  mule  road. 
Karponang  was  the  first  stage  for  the  coolies  carrying 
supplies  over  the  Natu-la  during  the  Lhasa  Expedition, 
and  we  put  up  for  the  night  in  the  small,  inconvenient  huts 
still  standing,  glad  to  get  out  of  the  wet  and  gloom  which 
had  come  down  as  the  day  waned.  This  part  of  the  road 
is  particularly  beautiful  in  fine  weather,  which  we  for- 
tunately had  the  next  morning,  for  the  road  winds  gradually 
up  through  forest-clad  hills,  with  white  magnolia  and 
scarlet  rhododendron  in  full  bloom,  and  the  sides  of  the 
road  were  carpeted  with  primulas  in  every  shade  of  mauve 
and  purple ; but  this  year  the  feathery  foliage  of  the  blue 
bamboo  was  missing,  and  replaced  by  melancholy,  dried-up 
sticks,  for  the  bamboos  had  flowered  and  seeded  the  year 
before  and  then  died.  We  crossed  some  fine  precipices  on 
the  older  and  more  difficult  track,  from  which  we  had  a 
magnificent  view  over  a sea  of  hills  stretching  in  one 
uninterrupted  panorama  to  the  plains  of  India,  perfectly 
distinct  in  the  clear  atmosphere  only  to  be  met  with  at  this 
time  of  the  year  after  rain.  As  we  mounted  higher  we  came 
to  snow,  at  first  not  very  deep,  and  the  mules  had  no 
difficulty  in  getting  through  it,  but  from  Lagyap  onwards 
the  whole  country  was  a smooth  white  sheet,  and  it  was 
impossible  to  realise  that  Tani-tso  was  a lake.  By  the 
afternoon  the  usual  blizzard  commenced,  and  drove  the 
drifting  snow  through  the  chinks  in  the  plank  walls  of  our 
miserable  huts,  the  smoke  down  the  chimneys,  and  reduced 
107 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

us  all  to  a state  of  discomfort,  as  our  only  shelter  was  another 
abandoned  transport  station.  The  road  on  which  we  were 
travelling  was  that  commenced  by  the  Indian  Government 
during  the  Tibet  Mission,  leading  from  Gangtak  to  Chumbi 
via  the  Natu-la,  and  is  without  doubt  the  best  and  easiest 
route  between  Sikhim  and  Chumbi,  a fact  recognised  by 
the  military  authorities.  The  greater  portion  of  this 
excellent  road  had  been  finished  at  an  expense  of  several 
lacs  of  rupees,  when,  on  the  signing  of  the  Lhasa  Treaty, 
Government,  in  spite  of  my  repeated  remonstrances, 
decided  to  abandon  the  undertaking,  ordered  work  to  be 
immediately  stopped,  and  rather  than  incur  the  small 
extra  expenditure  threw  away  the  large  amount  already 
expended,  by  leaving  uncompleted  a few  miles  in  the 
middle  of  a road,  the  greater  part  of  which  had  already 
been  finished  and  was  well  aligned  the  whole  way  to  Chumbi. 

We  had  great  difficulty  in  crossing  the  Natu-la,  14,780 
feet,  next  day,  owing  to  the  deep,  soft  snow,  and  although 
I had  every  one  on  the  road  before  six  in  the  morning  it 
was  12.30  before  I reached  the  top  of  the  pass  with  the 
first  few  coolies,  it  having  taken  us  three  hours  to  do  the 
last  miles ; but  that  year  was  an  exceptionally  severe 
and  late  one,  with  65  inches  of  snow  registered  at 
Chumbi,  against  20  the  year  before.  During  the  year 
of  the  Mission  I used  to  cross  450  maunds  of  stores  daily 
with  my  Sikhim  Coolie  Corps,  which,  at  the  special  request 
of  General  Macdonald,  I had  organised  under  Captains 
Souter  and  Muscroft,  who,  one  or  other,  almost  daily 
crossed  with  their  men.  On  many  other  occasions  I have 
always  ridden  across  the  pass,  but  this  time  I had  to  walk 
the  whole  distance,  and  had  such  weather  occurred  in 
1904  the  consequences  might  have  been  disastrous.  From 
the  pass  we  reached  Pema,  9600  feet,  in  the  Chumbi 
Valley,  halting  for  a night  at  Champitang,  without  further 
misadventure  than  that  nearly  one-third  of  my  coolies 
were  suffering  from  snow-blindness,  and  Major  Rennick 
also,  as  he  had  incautiously  taken  off  his  smoked  glasses. 

108 


4 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
The  day  was  fine,  and  Yatung,  where  the  treaty  mart  had 
been  established  for  over  ten  years,  was  well  in  sight  for 
some  time.  Viewing  it  from  the  Kagui  Monastery,  Mr. 
Paul  thought  the  real  site  for  the  Yatung  Trade  Mart,  to 
which  he  had  agreed  when  the  subject  was  discussed  after 
the  Sikhim  Treaty  in  1890,  was  where  the  Chinese  village 
is ; but  the  time  is  long  past  for  this  to  be  of  anything  but 
academic  interest.  I visited  the  Kagui  Monastery,  and 
found  that  the  Incarnate  Lama  who  supplied  our  officers 
with  information  as  to  the  Tibetan  forces  and  numbers  in 
1881  had  died  some  two  years  later,  and  had  been  succeeded 
by  an  Incarnation  found  at  Hah,  and  the  rumour  that  he 
had  been  murdered  by  the  notorious  Durkey  Sirdar  was 
based  on  the  fact  that  Durkey  Sirdar  murdered  another 
monk  belonging  to  the  monastery.  I found  the  monastery 
in  excellent  condition ; it  had  not  been  looted  by  either 
side  in  either  expedition,  and  there  were  about  it  a number 
of  merry  acolytes,  who,  however,  were  so  ignorant  that  they 
did  not  know  to  which  of  the  two  sects,  Dupka  or  Gelukha, 
they  belonged. 

In  the  valley  I was  met  by  Ugyen,  who  had  come  by  the 
Jeylap  route,  and  complained  of  a very  difficult  crossing. 
Mr.  Henderson,  of  the  Chinese  Customs  Service,  kindly 
placed  his  house,  which  boasted  of  one  large  chimney  and 
several  panes  of  glass,  and  had  formerly  been  rented  for 
the  use  of  the  Sikhim  Coolie  Corps  during  the  expedition, 
at  my  disposal,  and  we  halted  here  for  a couple  of  days, 
while  I made  final  arrangements  in  connection  with  my 
escort  and  baggage,  instructed  Mr.  Bell  with  regard  to 
carrying  on  the  administration  during  my  absence,  and  the 
Superintendent  of  Field  Post  Offices  to  send  a weekly  post 
after  me.  While  I was  there  a deputation  of  headmen 
from  Galingka  and  the  other  villages  situated  in  the  Am- 
mo-chhu  Valley  waited  on  me  to  complain  of  the  serious 
dilemma  they  were  in.  Under  recent  orders  from  the 
Government  of  India,  they  were  forbidden  to  take  orders 
from  the  Chinese  and  Tibetan  authorities  or  to  supply  them 
109’ 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

as  formerly  with  free  carriage,  &c.  If  it  was  the  intention 
of  Government  to  eventually  restore  the  Chumbi  Valley  to 
the  Tibetans  (in  reality  to  the  Chinese)  and  to  abandon 
them,  the  villagers,  what  would  their  ultimate  fate  be  ? 
Could  I give  them  any  guarantee  that  the  Government  of 
India  would  protect  them  and  ensure  their  safety  ? With 
the  fate  of  the  late  Sinchen  Rimpochi,  forced  to  throw 
himself  from  a cliff  into  the  river,  the  Pala  family  dis- 
graced, in  consequence  of  assistance  rendered  to  Surat 
Chundra  Das,  the  Shape  Lhalu  banished,  the  threatened 
punishment  of  the  Phodong  Lama  and  Kangsa  Dewan 
because  they  expressed  friendly  feelings  towards  the  British, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  more  recent  catastrophes  which  befell 
the  late  Shapes,  banished  on  account  of  supposed  friendliness 
to  the  Mission  at  Lhasa,  and  my  two  Lachung  villagers 
carried  off  and  imprisoned  in  Lhasa  as  spies  and  only 
released  on  the  Mission’s  arrival,  before  their  eyes,  it  was 
only  natural  that  the  people  should  be  inspired  with  a 
dread  of  severe  retribution  should  they  again  find  them- 
selves in  the  power  of  the  Tibetans.  I did  my  best  to 
reassure  them  and  to  point  out  that  matters  would  be 
satisfactorily  arranged,  but  it  was  neither  a pleasant  nor 
an  easy  task  to  have  to  deliberately  deceive  people  who 
trusted  you,  as  I had  to  do,  for  I was  only  too  well  aware 
that  at  the  first  opportunity  Government  would  throw 
them  over  and  leave  them  in  the  hands  of  the  Chinese 
(nominally  the  Tibetans),  than  whom  there  are  no  more 
cruel  or  revengeful  people.  And  subsequent  events  prove 
my  forecast  to  have  been  only  too  true,  for  two  years  later, 
on  January  i,  1908,  under  the  orders  of  a Liberal  Govern- 
ment, the  Chumbi  Valley  was  handed  back  to  the  Tibetans, 
our  troops  and  civil  officer  withdrawn,  and  the  people  left 
to  the  mercy  of  the  Chinese,  who  are  now  the  actual  rulers 
in  Tibet,  since  by  our  recognition  of  China  as  the  para- 
mount Power  we  have  placed  Tibet  completely  under  her 
sway.  With  the  evacuation  of  the  Chumbi  the  curtain 
was  finally  rung  down  on  the  Mission  to  Lhasa  in  1904,  and 
no 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
our  Government  voluntarily  resigned  all  that  had  been 
gained  by  those  long  months  of  hardship  and  stress,  by 
vast  expenditure  of  money  and  the  loss  of  valuable 
lives. 

It  was  instructive,  in  view  of  the  then  disputed  question 
as  to  whether  Chumbi,  as  the  people  themselves  maintained 
it  ought  to  be,  should  be  restored  to  Sikhim,  to  note  the  close 
intimacy  that  exists  between  Chumbi  and  Sikhim.  The 
wealthiest  man  in  the  valley  was  the  headman  of  Pema, 
whose  grandfather  and  great-grandfather  had  lived  in 
Gangtak,  whither  their  forefathers  had  migrated  from 
Chumbi.  According  to  local  tradition,  Chumbi  itself  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  Sikhim  Raja  a little  more  than 
a hundred  years  ago  as  the  dower  of  a Tibetan  wife,  the 
people  of  the  valley  below  Galing  paying  him  no  rent,  but 
carrying  for  him  and  his  amla  free.  I tried  to  trace  the 
previous  history  of  the  valley,  but  I could  find  no  one  with 
any  knowledge  of  or  interest  in  the  subject. 

Next  day,  after  concluding  my  arrangements,  we  com- 
menced our  journey  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Am-mo-chhu 
as  far  as  Rinchengong.  Ugyen  Kazi,  the  Bhutanese  agent* 
who  was  the  bearer  of  the  Viceroy’s  letter  to  the  Delai 
Lama  in  1903,  pointed  out  the  house  in  which  the  late 
Durkey  Sirdar  used  to  live,  and  poured  out  a repetition  of 
his  wrongs  ; that  doubt  should  have  been  thrown  on  the 
fact  that  he  had  delivered  his  Excellency’s  letter  to  the 
Delai  Lama  himself  had  sunk  deep  into  his  heart,  and  still 
rankled  sorely.  “ There,”  he  said,  with  dramatic  action, 
“ lived  and  flourished  my  enemy  ; he  maligned  me  to  the 
Tibetan  Government,  who  denied  me  access  to  Lhasa,  and, 
through  his  Kalimpong  friends,  to  the  Indian  Government, 
who  doubted  my  honesty.  I was  alone  with  but  few 
friends,  and  what  was  I to  do  ? I sent  money  and  presents 
to  the  great  oracle  at  Nachung,  and  told  the  Shapes  [Tibetan 
Council]  at  Lhasa  that  I was  an  honest  man  and  placed 
my  case  and  my  trust  in  the  gods  of  my  fathers.  If  I had 
been  dishonest  and  disloyal  to  either  Government,  if  I had 
hi 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

not  to  the  best  of  my  abilities  striven  to  do  my  duty  to 
both  Governments  and  consulted  their  interests  alone,  let 
the  divine  vengeance  fall  on  me.  But  if  I were  honest  and 
true,  let  it  be  meted  out  to  my  traducers.  Sir,  Durkey 
Sirdar  and  his  two  wives  died  within  a short  time  of  each 
other,  and  their  house  knows  them  no  more.  That  has  been 
my  answer  to  the  Council  at  Lhasa ; they  have  accepted  it, 
and  I am  free  to  go  to  the  Holy  City.  What  my  Indian 
masters  will  do  is  their  own  good  pleasure.” 

At  Rinchengong  the  road  crosses  the  Am-mo-chhu  by 
a substantial  bridge,  and  our  path  opened  out  most  lovely 
views,  with  splendid  timber.  But  unfortunately  the  track, 
which  is  capable  of  great  improvement  at  little  cost,  had 
been  much  neglected  of  late,  and  opposite  Assam-Ro- 
tsa  a rock  nearly  stopped  us  altogether,  though  after  the 
expenditure  of  much  time  and  labour  we  got  all  our  trans- 
port safely  across,  with  the  exception  of  one  pony,  whose 
leg  was  broken  and  who  had  to  be  shot.  That,  with  the  loss 
of  two  of  the  mules,  who  died  on  the  way  from  eating  the 
poisonous  leaves  of  a small  rhododendron  fatal  to  animals, 
was  a heavy  toll  for  the  first  day’s  march.  After  passing 
Assam-Ro-tsa  we  got  on  fairly  well,  but  I found  the  map 
was  wrong,  and  that  the  stream  marked  Langmarpu-chhu 
is  really  the  Kyanka,  a second  stream  which  we  had  already 
crossed  higher  up  being  the  Langmarpu-chhu.  Over  the 
Kyanka  there  was  a good  new  bridge,  which  we  crossed, 
and  passed  under  a cave,  or  rather  two  overhanging  rocks, 
named  Tak-phu,  which  were  pointed  out  as  being  in 
Bhutanese  territory.  At  the  head  of  the  Langmarpu-chhu 
there  is  said  to  be  a large  lake  and  good  shau  ( Cervus  sin- 
cncis)  shooting.  Turning  up  the  Kyanka,  the  narrow  track 
ran  some  way  above  the  stream,  and,  gradually  ascending, 
brought  us  to  our  camp,  which  was  pitched  in  a somewhat 
confined  glade  close  to  the  stream  at  a place  called  Lha-re 
(height  9900  feet),  in  Bhutan.  After  a fine  night,  with  the 
thermometer  registering  only  30°,  we  started  early,  and 
found  the  path  improved  as  we  ascended  the  Kyanka,  which 
112 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

we  twice  crossed  within  two  miles  on  bridges  of  the  canti- 
lever order  in  good  repair.  After  passing  the  second 
bridge  we  came  to  two  caves,  Pyak-che  and  Au-pyak, 
formed  by  overhanging  rocks,  but  of  no  great  depth,. 
These  “ robber  caves,”  as  their  name  implies,  were  formerly 
used  by  the  Hah-pa  folk  as  a base  from  which  to  issue  to 
rob  and  terrorise  peaceful  merchants.  At  one  time  the 
Hah-pa  were  amongst  the  richest  people  in  Bhutan,  but,  as 
Eden  relates,  they  took  to  evil  ways  and  fell  on  evil  times. 
But  in  justice  to  the  Hah-pa  it  must  be  acknowledged  that 
for  the  last  fifteen  years  their  winter  grazing-grounds  near 
Sipchu  and  the  lower  hills  have  been  seriously  curtailed 
by  the  increasing  irruption  of  Nepalese  settlers,  and  thus 
the  chief  source  of  their  wealth — cattle-rearing  and  dairy 
produce — has  begun  to  fail,  while  the  constant  quarrels 
arising  between  them  and  the  Paharias  entail  much  worry 
and  expense. 

A little  further  on*  we  crossed  the  Chalu-chhu,  and 
the  valley  widened  out  into  the  most  delightful  glades 
and  upland  swards,  forming  rich  grazing-grounds ; in  fact, 
Chalu-thang  would  form  a perfect  site  for  a summer 
sanatorium,  for  it  is  a well-wooded,  gently  sloping  park, 
spreading  for  several  miles  up  the  vales  of  the  Chalu-chhu 
and  Tak-phu-chu.  Growing  in  abundance  were  spruce, 
larch,  silver  fir,  holly-oak,  various  pines  and  rhododen- 
drons, interspersed  with  grassy  slopes,  while  the  main 
valley  had  the  appearance  of  a gigantic  avenue  leading  up 
to  the  snowy  pyramid  of  Senchu-la.  Out  of  the  valley  a 
somewhat  steep  ascent  round  a grassy  knoll  brought  us  to 
the  Dong-ma-chhu,  up  which  runs  another  track,  meeting 
the  head  of  the  Langmarpu-chhu,  and  thus  by  a more 
northerly  but  difficult  path  gaining  the  Hah  road.  Our 
route,  however,  took  us  over  the  Lungri  Sampa,  up  a steep 
and  stony  path,  to  our  camp  at  Tak-phu,  a somewhat  bare 
and  extensive  flat,  an  old  moraine  well  within  sight  of  the 
Kyu-la  (Chula).  There  was  plenty  of  timber,  but  we  found 
our  chief  protection  from  the  wind  in  the  walls  of  the 
113  H 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

lateral  moraines,  of  which  the  valley  presented  some 
excellent  examples.  Directly  opposite  I counted  four 
distinct  moraine  terraces,  one  above  the  other,  forming 
gigantic  spur  works  which  keep  the  present  river  within 
bounds.  At  the  same  time,  so  far  from  the  moraines  being 
barren,  stony  walls,  they  were  luxuriantly  covered  by 
virgin  forest  right  up  to  the  parent  ridge.  Our  night  was 
not  a very  comfortable  one,  as  it  snowed  all  afternoon 
and  most  of  the  evening.  The  road  from  Rinchengong 
was  capable  of  being  made  into  a good  one  without  any 
great  difficulty,  and  Ugyen  Kazi  has  since  greatly  improved 
it.  There  were  no  insuperable  obstacles,  and  the  streams 
were  already  well  bridged,  but  we  experienced  considerable 
difficulty,  owing  to  the  surface  having  been  injured  by 
recent  frosts  and  snows.  The  surrounding  country  is 
beautiful  and  well  worth  visiting ; game  is  plentiful,  as  a 
bag  of  four  Blood  pheasant,  two  Monal  pheasant,  and 
one  burhel,  without  really  leaving  the  road,  clearly  evi- 
denced ; and  it  would  make  an  ideal  place  to  spend  a 
holiday  in. 

The  night  before  crossing  the  pass  was  the  coldest  we 
had  experienced,  the  thermometer  registering  i8°  of  frost, 
and  my  breath  actually  congealed  and  formed  a coating  of 
ice  on  my  blanket.  With  no  knowledge  of  what  might  be 
before  us,  as  no  European  or  even  properly  qualified 
native  explorer  had  crossed  the  passes  of  the  Massong- 
chung-dong  range,  I had  the  camp  roused  at  4 a.m.,  and  the 
main  body  well  on  the  way  by  5.45  in  fine  bright  weather. 
We  soon  entered  a fairly  level  amphitheatre,  which,  how- 
ever, contained  no  lake,  and  where  high  up  on  the  northern 
slopes  we  saw  a large  flock  of  burhel,  and  Rennick 
bagged  a fine  female.  It  was  quite  possible  to  ride  to  the 
foot  of  the  last  ascent  to  what  we  thought  was  the  pass,  an 
ascent  very  deep  in  snow,  which  luckily  was  hard  frozen ; 
and  as  a matter  of  fact  my  cook,  a Mugh  from  Chittagong, 
and  a great  character,  rode  the  whole  way  from  camp  to 
camp  without  dismounting,  a feat  that  even  the  hardy 
114 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

Bhutanese  looked  upon  as  marvellous.  The  real  pass, 
Kyu-la,  13,900  feet,  lay  a little  way  off  with  a small  lake  to 
the  east,  and  we  reached  it  about  7.15  a.m.  Looking  back 
over  the  valley  we  had  ascended,  we  had  a grand  view  of 
the  Jeylap  range  behind  a finely  wooded  foreground. 
Turning  round,  the  aspect  entirely  changed  ; about  a mile 
and  a half  away  was  the  Hah-la,  which  was  wrongly  marked 
on  our  maps  as  the  Meru-la  ; between  the  two  passes  was 
a hollow  dip,  flanked  on  the  north  by  precipitous  cliffs  and 
on  the  south  by  a deep  snowdrift  ending  in  space,  and 
somewhere  between  the  two  our  track  lay — verily,  as  our 
guide  called  it,  “ a Bridge  of  Death.”  Woe  to  the  poor 
traveller  caught  between  these  two  horns,  should  the  wind 
rise  and  the  snow  fall ; for  him  there  was  no  shelter  from  the 
storm,  no  means  by  which  to  light  a fire  to  warm  him,  not 
a tree  or  a shrub  to  be  seen  over  the  wind-swept  fields  of 
snow,  only  bleak  and  bare  outcrops  of  rock.  But  in  our 
case  the  little  wind  there  was  soon  died  down,  and  in 
perfect  weather  we  climbed  down  the  snow-slope  to  the 
bottom  of  the  hollow,  where  we  found  we  could  ride  for 
some  distance,  and  finally  reached  the  Hah-la  about  an 
hour  later.  On  the  top  were  many  “ obos,”  offerings  to  the 
spirits  of  the  pass,  a fact  that  bore  significant  testimony 
to  the  story  of  our  guide,  and  looking  back,  as  I cast  my 
contribution  on  the  nearest  cairn  and  threw  my  “ airy 
horse  ” (Lung-ta)  aloft,  I breathed  a silent  but  fervent 
prayer  that  though  my  horse  could  not  materialise,  the 
spirits  of  the  air  might  remain  still  and  grant  a safe  and 
sure  passage  to  the  next  wayfarer.  Climbing  a knoll  to 
the  south,  I had  a fine  view  of  an  unknown  snowy  ridge, 
which  ended  suddenly  on  the  north-west  in  an  enormous 
precipice,  apparently  giving  outlet  to  the  Am-mo-chhu, 
and,  as  far  as  I could  gather,  called  Tso-na.  To  the  north 
the  fine  mass  of  Chumolhari  was  seen  in  the  distance, 
and  nearer  the  snow-peaks  of  Massong-chung-dong,  which 
dominate  the  head  of  the  Hah  valley,  and  about  which  there 
runs  a legend  that  there  once  lived  in  Hah  two  men  so 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

powerful  that  they  were  able  to  uphold  the  mountain,  and 
that  their  spirits  still  have  their  dwelling-place  somewhere 
in  its  icy  fastnesses.  On  the  east  was  a well-wooded  but 
rather  steep  valley,  down  which  we  had  to  descend  by  a very 
rough  precipitous  track,  which  at  first,  owing  to  the  snow, 
could  hardly  be  called  a road  ; it,  however,  improved  by 
the  time  we  reached  a small  open  glade  called  Damtheng, 
though  the  frozen  snow  still  made  our  footing  insecure. 
Soon  after  we  were  met  by  the  Tongsa  Donyer,  who 
accompanied  the  Tongsa  Penlop  to  Lhasa  in  1904  and  was 
formerly  the  Donyer  of  Angdu-phodang  ; he  brought  the 
usual  scarf  and  murwa  in  the  name  of  the  Tongsa,  and 
informed  me  he  had  been  detailed  to  accompany  me  during 
my  stay  in  Bhutan  and  to  arrange  for  the  comfort  of  my 
party,  and  these  duties  he  carried  out  most  satisfactorily. 
From  Damtheng,  after  crossing  a good  bridge,  we  slightly 
ascended  before  reaching  Tsangpa-pilam  where  the  traders’ 
branch  road  to  Phari  joins  that  from  Hah-la,  and  where 
we  found  three  small  but  excellent  riding-mules,  which 
proved  most  useful  and  satisfactory  animals,  sent  by 
the  Paro  Penlop,  in  charge  of  the  Paro  Gorap  (gate- 
keeper). 

The  road  now  became  quite  good,  and  about  midday 
we  rode  into  Damthong  (10,400  feet),  where  we  found  a 
zareba  of  fresh  pine  boughs  encircling  a well  laid-out 
camp.  Words  fail  me  to  describe  the  beauty  of  the  scene. 
Grassy  glades,  gently  sloping,  opened  on  a series  of  wide 
valleys  in  the  far  distance,  while  on  either  side  and  at  our 
back  was  a deep  fringe  of  fine  trees  of  every  age,  from  the 
patriarch  of  the  forest  down  to  young  seedlings.  The 
Bhutanese  seem  to  have  acquired  the  secret  of  combining 
in  forests  self-reproduction  with  unlimited  grazing,  for 
from  the  time  we  left  Rinchengong  we  passed  through 
forests  which,  without  exception,  were  self-reproducing. 
When  we  were  comfortably  settled  in  our  tents  the  Tongsa  and 
Paro  officials,  accompanied  by  the  Hah  Zimpon  and  Nerpa, 
brought  us  a further  salutation  from  the  Penlops,  in  the 
116 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
shape  of  a piece  of  silk  for  myself  and  rations  for  the  whole 
party.  The  arrangements  were  so  good  they  augured  well 
for  the  future  welfare  of  our  Mission. 

After  a comfortable  night  we  started  in  the  morning 
along  a very  good  road,  which  soon  brought  us  into  an  open 
valley,  leading  through  most  magnificent  scenery,  with 
often  a small  gompa,  or  chapel,  perched  high  above  us, 
in  accordance  with  the  practice,  more  or  less  universal  here, 
of  planting  one  on  every  commanding  promontory.  The 
first  village  of  note  was  Ke-chuka,  which  possessed  a good 
chuten,  built  by  a former  Hah  Jongpen,  and  fine  water- 
mills. We  went  into  the  village  gompa,  and  found  a 
curious  custom  prevailed,  which  I have  not  come  across 
elsewhere,  namely,  that  most  travellers  offered  a small 
copper  coin,  and  then  tried  their  luck  with  three  dice  kept 
in  the  alms-bowl. 

At  Kyengsa  a road  leads  up  through  a thickly  wooded 
side  valley,  through  Talong  and  over  the  Saga-la,  and 
so  down  to  Dug-gye-jong,  on  the  main  road  between 
Paro  and  Phari.  It  was  here  the  horse-dealer  Aphe  for- 
merly lived,  who  supplied  some  years  ago  a batch  of 
ponies  to  the  Assam  Government,  which  was  then  com- 
mencing a tonga  service  between  Gowhati  and  Shillong. 
He  later  died  in  Lhasa,  and  this  shows  how  widely  ramified 
is  the  trade  between  India  and  Lhasa. 

On  a beautiful  flat,  called  Gyang  Karthang,  an  annual 
dance  and  fair  is  held  in  December  and  January,  and  a 
more  suitable  site  could  hardly  be  imagined.  Yangthang, 
a large  village,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream 
at  the  broadest  part  of  the  valley,  and  as  the  Hah-chhu 
runs  where  the  irrigation  channels  lead,  a great  deal  of 
stony,  barren  land  which  would  otherwise  be  the  bed  of  the 
river  is  exposed.  The  road  ran  across  a bridge  through  the 
village,  and  out  again  over  another  bridge,  but  as  these 
bridges  were  said  to  be  dangerous  we  continued  our 
journey  along  a temporary  path  on  the  right  bank,  and  at 
every  village  we  passed  the  inhabitants  turned  out  to  receive 
117 


[SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

us  and  had  hot  tea  always  ready  on  the  roadside.  Many 
of  the  Darjeeling  gwallas,  or  cattle-owners,  come  from 
Yangthang,  and  the  village  seems  to  be  a dividing  line,  as 
the  people  living  above  it  are  known  as  notorious  robbers 
and  thieves,  while  below  they  are  supposed  to  be  more 
reputable. 

Holly-oak  (Pi-shingh,  locally)  was  now  conspicuous  by 
its  presence,  and  the  formation  of  the  hills  was  markedly 
of  crystalline  limestone.  After  passing  some  mineral 
springs  we  came  to  the  twin  forts  and  village  of  Tom- 
phiong(8370  feet),  and,  crossing  a strong  bridge,  reached 
our  camp,  pitched  on  a large  level  maidan,  flanked  with 
willow-trees,  and  ornamented  by  a long  mendong,  or  wall  of 
prayer.  The  Hah  Tungba,  a brother  of  the  late  Aloo 
Dorgi,  paid  his  respects,  accompanied  by  one  of  his  younger 
sons,  and  brought  rations  for  the  party.  After  lunch  I 
visited  the  main  fort,  which  was  dirty  and  dilapidated,  and 
where  perhaps  the  most  notable  article  was  a Westly 
Richards  rifle,  with  a Whitworth  barrel,  dated  1864,  which 
the  local  blacksmith  had  converted  into  a muzzle-loader ; 
while  the  Tungba  showed  me  some  excellent  sword-blades 
manufactured  in  the  village  by  the  same  man.  I was  also 
shown  two  curious  hollows  in  the  limestone  formation 
which  connect  some  subterranean  lake  with  the  river  ; the 
villagers  place  baskets  at  the  outlets,  and  the  rush  of  water 
at  times  brings  out  a number  of  fair-sized  fish,  though  I 
saw  no  fish  in  the  Hah  stream  itself. 

My  party  were  now  the  guests  of  Bhutan,  and  we  were 
relieved  of  all  trouble  with  regard  to  transport  and  camping- 
grounds,  as  this  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Tongsa  Donyer, 
whom  I have  already  mentioned  as  having  been  sent  to 
meet  us  by  the  Tongsa,  and  who  was  unfailing  in  his 
efforts  to  secure  our  comfort.  Next  day  we  rode  up  to  the 
chief  monastery,  Tak-kyun  Gompa ; at  least,  we  rode  as  far 
as  we  could,  as  the  monastery  is  situated  on  a flat  with 
almost  precipitous  sides,  and  we  had  to  struggle  up  the 
last  ascent  on  foot.  The  buildings  were  in  good  order, 
118 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
but  of  no  great  interest,  although  the  view  both  up  and 
down  the  Hah-chhu  is  magnificent.  Near  this  is  the 
Poisoners’  Gompa  mentioned  by  Eden,  but  it  was  closed, 
and  I did  not  think  it  worth  while  to  send  for  the  key. 

In  the  afternoon  a severe  thunderstorm  sprang  up,  and 
it  snowed  heavily  nearly  all  night ; so  much  so  that  in  the 
morning  I was  doubtful  about  starting ; but,  learning  that 
the  road  was  easy  and  in  good  order  and  that  the  coolies 
were  already  assembled,  I decided  to  go  on.  While  the 
loads  were  being  portioned  out  amongst  the  coolies  I saw  a 
man  being  led  off  between  three  others,  and  thinking  that  he 
might  have  lost  or  spoilt  something,  and  anxious  that  he 
should  not  be  unnecessarily  punished,  I inquired  what  was 
the  matter,  and  learned,  to  my  astonishment,  that  he  had  a 
year  ago  killed  one  of  the  Tongsa’s  servants,  and,  escaping, 
had  been  wanted  ever  since.  According  to  the  custom  of 
the  country,  the  punishment  for  the  offence  was  that  his 
right  hand  should  be  cut  off  and  the  tendons  of  his  legs 
severed ; and  what  could  have  induced  the  man  to  run  the 
risk  of  such  a punishment  I cannot  imagine,  for  he  probably 
got  nothing  in  payment  for  his  three  days’  labour  in  carrying 
my  things.  It  sounds  very  barbarous,  but  when  the  state 
of  the  country  and  its  condition  is  taken  into  account  it 
somewhat  alters  the  appearance  of  things.  There  are  no 
jails,  and  this  is  a severe  method  of  deterring  hardened 
criminals  from  committing  such  offences  and  then  ab- 
sconding. 

Our  route  took  us  over  a very  good  bridle-path,  and  we 
rode  nearly  the  whole  way  to  the  top  of  the  Chiu-li-la, 
which  we  reached  about  an  hour  after  leaving  our  former 
camp.  As  we  rode  we  had  occasional  glimpses  of  the  Hah 
valley  as  far  as  the  Dorikha,  where  Eden  camped,  but  the 
weather  was  unfortunately  very  damp,  windy,  and  chilly. 
On  the  pass  I was  met  by  an  orderly  from  Paro  with  murwa, 
which  in  the  cold  was  most  acceptable  and  refreshing.  On 
the  way  up  I noticed  that  a small  patch  of  forest  had  been 
burnt,  the  first  trace  of  a jungle  fire  I had  seen.  On  several 

IIQ 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

occasions  I had  noticed  men  carefully  extinguishing  the 
remains  of  their  night’s  fire,  and  now  learnt  that  any 
carelessness  in  the  matter  of  fire  in  the  forests  was  most 
severely  punished  by  the  Bhutanese  authorities. 

Descending  the  other  side,  our  path,  owing  to  the  frozen 
snow  in  the  shade  and  to  melting  slush  in  the  sun,  would 
have  been  very  difficult  had  not  the  villagers  thickly 
strewn  it  with  thick  soft  moss,  which  made  walking  quite 
pleasant.  High  above  on  our  right  was  the  nunnery  of 
Kyila,  built  on  the  face  of  a very  steep  precipice,  and  said 
to  contain  sixty  nuns ; but  as  I counted  twenty-five  houses, 
the  majority  quite  large,  I fancy  the  number  of  inhabitants 
must  be  considerably  greater.  The  road  leading  to  it  must 
be  very  difficult,  and  as  it  lay  some  distance  off,  across  a 
small  valley,  I did  not  attempt  to  visit  it.  The  rule  forbids 
any  male  creature  to  remain  in  the  precincts  of  the  establish- 
ment. 

We  arrived  at  Cha-na-na,  a small  hamlet  of  half  a dozen 
houses,  mostly  in  ruins,  about  midday,  and  camped  there 
for  the  night.  Our  experience  in  crossing  the  Chiu-li-la 
was  so  different  in  every  respect  from  that  of  Eden  that  I 
cannot  but  suspect  that  he  was  deliberately  guided  away 
from  the  proper  route  to  some  mere  cattle-track,  and  my 
boiling-point  readings,  which  are  about  600  feet  lower  than 
Eden’s,  point  conclusively  to  this  theory.  While  here  I 
nearly  lost  my  best  riding-mule  from  the  effects  of  a 
poisonous  herb  which  it  had  eaten ; but  after  the  native 
remedy,  bleeding  from  the  ear,  had  been  resorted  to  it 
sufficiently  recovered  to  leave  camp  with  us.  We  soon 
emerged  on  a spur,  whence  we  obtained  a grand  view  of 
the  valleys  of  the  Pa-chhu  and  its  tributaries.  There  we 
found  a broad,  well-cultivated,  level  country,  which  under 
good  management  ought  to  produce  all  temperate  crops 
in  abundance.  On  a distant  mountain  to  the  south-east 
was  situated  the  monastery  of  Danka-la,  visible,  I believe, 
from  Poonakha  ; on  a hill  a little  to  the  north-east  was 
Beila-jong,  close  to  which  our  future  road  ran ; while  away 
120 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

up  the  Pa-chhu  the  fort  of  Dug-gye  dominates  the  route  to 
Phari,  and  takes  its  name  from  a notable  defeat  of  Tibetan 
invaders.  Soon  we  came  upon  the  monastery  of  Gorina, 
which  a former  Shabdung  Rimpochi  used  to  make  his 
summer  retreat.  The  chapel  was  clean,  and  gaily  decorated 
with  fresco  paintings  in  good  taste,  while  the  hangings  round 
the  altar  were  overlaid  with  wrought  brass  open-work 
superior  to  anything  that  I had  seen  in  Lhasa,  but  in 
sharp  contrast  the  side  altars  were  adorned  with  four 
gaudy  green  porcelain  parrots.  The  chuten  was  a very 
fine  one,  and  on  the  face  was  a figure  of  Buddha  embossed 
on  a large  brass  plate.  There  was  also  a subsidiary  gompa, 
but  we  did  not  go  inside.  On  the  ridge  below  we  were 
greeted  with  salvos  of  artillery,  fired  from  iron  tubes 
bound  with  leather  ; and  I wondered  whether  these  could 
be  the  leather  cannon  of  which  we  heard  so  much  in  the 
Chinese-Gurkha  war.  The  Paro  Penlop’s  band  was  also 
waiting,  with  three  richly  caparisoned  mules  in  attendance, 
and  we  slowly  descended  a clayey  slope  which  must  be 
absolutely  impassable  in  wet  weather,  and  thence  rode 
along  the  plain,  past  the  fort  and  its  bridge,  through  a 
quadruple  avenue  of  willows,  to  our  destination  that  day, 
Paro,  where  our  camp  was  pitched  on  a large  level  maidan. 
A large  square  had  been  marked  off  by  a strong  lattice  fence 
of  split  bamboo,  and  at  the  entrance  a new  Swiss  cottage 
tent  was  pitched,  and  in  it  I found  waiting  to  receive  me 
the  Penlop’s  small  son  and  the  Paro  Donyer,  who  offered 
us  tea,  oranges,  and  fruit  for  our  refreshment.  The  Donyer 
was  particular  in  reminding  Paul  that  he  had  formed 
one  of  the  Penlop’s  party  some  sixteen  years  before,  and 
had  then  been  photographed,  and  was  very  pleased  when 
I promised  to  take  him  again  that  afternoon.  I was 
particularly  struck  on  the  day’s  march  by  the  total  absence 
of  rhododendrons,  which  always  love  a peaty  soil,  and  the 
change  from  gneiss  to  crystalline  limestone,  sandstone,  and 
dark  shales,  then  to  heavy  red  clay  deeply  impregnated 
with  iron,  and  again  to  bluish-grey  limestone. 

121 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

In  the  afternoon,  while  wandering  round  the  camp,  which 
was  very  well  laid  out,  I watched  the  curious  Bhutanese 
custom  of  feeding  mules  with  eggs,  which  I had  never 
come  across  elsewhere.  All  our  mules,  as  well  as  those 
belonging  to  Ugyen  Kazi  and  to  the  Penlops,  each  had  a 
ration  of  two  or  three  raw  eggs.  The  eggs  were  broken  into 
a horn,  the  mule’s  head  held  up,  and  the  contents  of  the  horn 
poured  down  the  animal’s  throat,  and,  strange  to  say,  they 
seemed  to  like  the  unnatural  food.  The  Bhutanese  always 
give  this  to  their  animals  when  they  have  any  extra  hard 
work  to  do,  and  say  it  keeps  them  in  excellent  condition ; 
and  certainly  all  their  mules  were  in  first-rate  condition. 

The  next  morning  the  Paro  Penlop,  accompanied  by 
his  young  son,  paid  me  a formal  visit,  at  which  we  ex- 
changed ordinary  compliments.  The  Penlop  was  then 
about  fifty-six  years  of  age,  a fair  man,  with  a weak, 
discontented,  though  not  unhandsome  face.  His  first 
and  lawful  wife,  Ugyen  Zangmo,  was  a relative  of  the 
Tongsa  Penlop,  but  as  she  was  childless  he  married  his 
present  consort,  a woman  called  Rinchen  Dolma,  from  a 
village  near  Paro,  who  bore  him  a son,  at  the  time  of  our 
visit  about  twelve  years  of  age,  and  a most  ill-mannered 
young  cub,  who  would  have  been  all  the  better  for  a good 
thrashing.  His  mother,  Rinchen  Dolma,  though  elderly 
and  crippled  with  chronic  rheumatism,  is  a pleasant,  clever 
woman,  who  completely  rules  the  Penlop.  In  order  to 
preserve  her  influence  as  she  grew  older,  and  to  prevent  him 
bringing  a stranger  into  the  house,  she  gave  him  her 
own  daughter,  Tayi  (by  her  first  husband),  as  his  junior 
wife,  and  they  both  lived  amicably  in  a pretty  house 
across  the  valley.  The  wives  have  a dwelling  outside  the 
Jong,  on  account  of  the  strict  regulation  that  no  female  is 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  fort  after  dark.  The  gates  of  the 
fort,  as  well  as  those  of  the  bridge  across  the  Pa-chhu,  are 
regularly  closed  at  sunset,  and,  as  in  China,  are  not  opened 
until  morning  on  any  pretext  whatever ; even  the  Penlop 
himself  is  not  admitted,  and  consequently,  if  he  wishes  to 
122 


CHORTEN  AT  GORINA  MONASTERY 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

remain  with  his  wives,  must  stay  for  the  whole  night  in 
their  house,  where  his  apartments  command  lovely  views 
both  up  and  down  the  valley. 

When  Dow  Penjo,  the  Paro  Penlop,  came  to  Kalimpong 
some  years  ago  he  was  accompanied  by  his  sister’s  son, 
then  scarcely  out  of  his  teens.  This  person  had  now 
become  the  Paro  Donyer,  in  name  the  chief  official  after 
the  Penlop,  but  in  reality  a low,  drunken,  ignorant  fellow, 
and  the  only  person  with  whom  I had  any  trouble.  Going 
about  in  a state  of  maudlin  intoxication  from  early  morning, 
it  was  difficult  to  keep  him  in  his  place,  for  under  the 
pretext  of  friendliness  and  relationship  to  the  Penlop  he 
used  to  walk  into  one’s  tent  at  most  inconvenient  times, 
asking  for  anything  from  an  old  solah  topee  to  our  mess 
kit.  Finally  I had  to  purchase  a temporary  respite  with 
the  present  of  a pair  of  binoculars  that  he  badgered  every 
one  for,  and  at  last  we  parted  from  him  almost  sober ; but 
he  was  the  one  exception,  as  the  other  officials  and  the 
people  throughout  the  journey  were  extremely  well  behaved 
and  very  friendly. 

Next  morning  I rode  to  the  fort,  which  is  situated  on  a 
limestone  bluff  overhanging  the  river,  to  return  the  Penlop’s 
visit.  There  is  only  one  entrance  from  the  hillside,  and 
that  above  the  third  story,  the  lower  stories  being  used 
entirely  as  storehouses  for  grain,  &c.  Crossing  a foss, 
which  separates  the  outer  courts  from  the  fort,  by  a heavy 
drawbridge,  we  entered  a huge  gateway,  and,  turning  to 
the  left,  found  ourselves  in  the  eastern  courtyard,  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  the  smaller  of  two  citadels,  equal  in 
height,  and  occupied  by  petty  officials.  A series  of  rooms 
and  verandahs  overlooking  the  river  are  built  against  the 
inside  of  the  east  and  north  outer  walls,  with  a covered 
verandah,  one  story  in  height,  occupying  nearly  the 
whole  west  front.  The  Penlop’s  rooms  are  situated  in  the 
south-east  corner  on  the  floor  above,  and  we  entered  through 
a long,  low  room  filled  with  retainers  seated  in  four  rows, 
two  on  either  side,  facing  each  other,  a scene  which  made  one 
123 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

think  of  an  old  baronial  hall  in  bygone  English  days.  To 
add  to  this  impression,  the  reception  room  was  large  and 
handsomely  decorated,  and  the  walls  hung  with  arms  of 
all  descriptions,  shields,  spears,  matchlocks,  guns,  bows 
and  arrows  of  every  imaginable  kind,  all  well  kept  and 
ready  for  use. 

The  Penlop  received  us  in  a large  bay  window  looking 
down  the  valley,  but  the  visit  was  dull  and  uninteresting, 
as  he  seemed  to  know  little  of  the  history  of  his  country, 
and  what  information  we  did  extract  was  vague  and  in- 
accurate. I made  him  some  presents,  including  a rifle  and 
ammunition,  and  gave  his  son  a knife,  binoculars,  and  a 
magnifying  glass,  with  which  the  lad  was  immensely  pleased, 
and  shortly  after  took  my  leave,  receiving  permission  to 
inspect  the  fort,  and  to  pay  a visit  to  his  wives  in  the 
house  across  the  valley. 

The  fort  is  said  to  have  been  built  in  the  time  of  the 
first  Shabdung  Rimpochi,  and  does  not  seem  to  have  suffered 
from  the  earthquakes  that  shattered  part  of  Tashi-cho- 
jong  and  Poonakha.  On  the  first  floor  is  the  temple,  the 
gompa,  or  public  chapel,  a very  finely  proportioned  hall, 
well  lighted,  and  with  two  galleries  running  round  the 
main  building.  It  is  a much  larger  room  than  the  one  in 
the  Potala  at  Lhasa  where  the  Tibetan  Treaty  was  signed, 
and  all  its  decorations  are  good,  a hanging  latticework  of 
pierced  brass  in  front  of  the  altar  especially  being  very 
effective  and  unusual.  At  the  other  end  of  the  west 
verandah  is  the  private  chapel  of  the  Ta-tshangs,  the  State 
monks,  where  we  were  received  by  their  head,  Lama 
Kun-yang  Namgyal,  who  went  to  Lhasa  with  the  Tibet 
Mission  and  exercised  a good  influence  amongst  the  monks 
there.  We  were  pleased  to  meet  again,  and  he  gladly 
showed  us  all  there  was  to  be  seen.  The  larger  of  the  two 
citadels  is  in  the  centre  of  the  western  courtyard,  at  the 
north-west  angle  of  the  building,  and  while  I was  going 
round  I noticed  old  catapults  for  throwing  large  stones 
carefully  stored  in  the  rafters  of  the  verandah.  In  the 
124 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
north-east  corner  are  rooms  for  distinguished  guests,  and 
there  is  also  a guardhouse  in  the  parade-ground  beyond 
the  drawbridge.  The  fort  and  its  surroundings  have  been 
described  by  both  Turner  and  Eden,  from  whom  I give  the 
following  extracts. 

Turner  writes  : 

“ The  castle,  or  palace  of  Paro,  known  also  by  the 
appellation  of  Paro  Jong,  and  Rinjipo,  is  constructed, 
and  the  surrounding  ground  laid  out,  more  with  a view  to 
strength  and  defence  than  any  place  I have  seen  in 
Bootan.  It  stands  near  the  base  of  a very  high  mountain  ; 
its  foundation  does  not  decline  with  the  slope  of  the  rock, 
but  the  space  it  occupies  is  fashioned  to  receive  it  hori- 
zontally. Its  form  is  an  oblong  square  ; the  outer  walls 
of  the  four  angles,  near  the  top  of  them,  sustain  a range  of 
proj  ecting  balconies,  at  nearly  equal  intermediate  distances, 
which  are  covered  by  the  fir  eaves  that  project,  as  usual, 
high  above  and  beyond  the  walls,  and  are  fenced  with 
parapets  of  mud.  There  is  but  one  entrance  into  the 
castle,  which  is  in  the  eastern  front,  over  a wooden  bridge, 
so  constructed  as  to  be  with  great  facility  removed,  leaving 
a deep  and  wide  space  between  the  gateway  and  the 
rock. 

“ Opposed  to  the  front  are  seen,  upon  the  side  of  the 
mountains,  three  other  buildings,  designed  as  outposts, 
placed  in  a triangular  position.  The  outer  one  is  most 
distant  from  the  palace,  and  about  a double  bowshot  from 
those  on  either  side,  as  you  look  up  at  them.  The  outer 
building  and  that  on  the  left  defend  the  road  to  Tassi- 
sudon,  which  runs  between  them  ; that  on  the  right  the 
road  from  Buxadewar  and  passage  across  the  bridge.  On 
the  side  next  the  river,  from  the  foundation  of  the  castle, 
the  rock  is  perpendicular,  and  the  river  running  at  its  base 
renders  it  inaccessible.  The  bridge  over  the  Patchieu, 
which  is  at  no  great  distance,  is  covered  in  the  same  manner 
as  those  at  Tassisudon  and  Punakha,  and  has  two  spacious 
gateways.” 


125 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Eden  writes  : 

“ The  fort  of  Paro  is  a very  striking  building,  and  far 
surpassed  the  expectations  we  had  formed  from  anything 
we  had  heard  of  Bootian  architecture.  It  is  a large,  rect- 
angular building,  surrounding  a hollow  square,  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  a large  tower  of  some  seven  stories,  surmounted 
by  a large  copper  cupola.  The  outer  building  has  five 
stories,  three  of  which  are  habitable,  the  two  lower  stories 
being  used  as  granaries  and  stores  and  are  lighted  with 
small  loopholes,  while  the  upper  stories  are  lighted  with 
large  windows  opening  in  most  cases  on  to  comfortable 
verandahs.  The  entrance  to  the  fort  is  on  the  left  side,  by 
a little  bridge  over  a narrow  ditch  ; the  gateway  is  hand- 
some, and  the  building  above  is  much  higher  than  the  rest 
of  the  outer  square  ; it  is  ornamented  and  painted,  and  has 
a number  of  well-executed  inscriptions  engraved  in  stone 
and  iron,  some  of  them  gilt.  At  the  gateway  are  a row  of 
cages  in  which  are  kept  four  enormous  Thibetan  mastives. 
These  beautiful  animals  are  very  ferocious  ; they  are  never 
taken  out  of  their  cages ; they  are  said,  however,  to  be  less 
dangerous  than  they  otherwise  would  be  from  their  over- 
lapping jowls,  which  prevent  their  using  their  teeth  as 
freely  as  ordinary  dogs.  The  first  thing  which  catches  the 
eye  on  entering  the  fort  is  a huge  praying  cylinder,  some 
ten  feet  high,  turned  by  a crank  ; a catch  is  so  arranged 
that  at  each  turn  a bell  is  rung.  The  gate  of  the  fort  is 
lined  with  light  iron  plates.  On  entering  the  fort  you  are 
surprised  to  find  yourself  at  once  in  the  third  story,  for  the 
fort  is  built  on  a rock  which  is  overlapped  by  the  lower 
stories  and  forms  the  ground  base  of  the  courtyard  and 
centre  towers.  . . . After  passing  through  a dark  passage 
which  turns  first  to  the  left  and  then  to  the  right,  a large 
well-paved  and  scrupulously  clean  courtyard  is  reached  ; 
the  fine  set  of  rooms  on  the  left  is  devoted  nominally 
to  the  relations  of  the  ladies  of  the  palace,  in  reality,  I 
believe,  to  the  ladies  themselves,  who,  however,  are  sup- 
posed to  live  outside  the  fort,  in  accordance  with  the 
126 


ONOf-OHVt 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
theory  that  all  in  authority  are  under  obligation  of  per- 
petual celibacy.  Beyond  these  rooms  is  a second  small 
gateway,  and  the  first  set  of  rooms  on  the  left  hand 
belong  to  the  ex-Paro  Penlop  ; they  are  reached  by  a very 
slippery  and  steep  staircase,  opening  into  a long  vestibule, 
in  which  the  followers  lounge  ; this  leads  into  a large  hall 
in  which  his  sepoys  mess,  and  in  which  one  of  his  amla  is 
always  in  waiting.  Beyond  the  hall  is  the  Penlop’s  state 
room  ; it  is  somewhat  low,  but  of  great  size  and  really 
very  striking,  for  the  Bootanese  have  derived  from  their 
intercourse  with  Tibet  and  China  in  old  days  very  con- 
siderable taste  in  decoration.  The  beams  are  rudely  painted 
in  blue,  orange,  and  gold,  the  Chinese  dragon  being  the  most 
favourite  device,  the  roof  is  supported  by  a series  of  carved 
arches,  and  all  round  the  room  and  in  the  arches  are 
suspended  bows,  quivers,  polished  iron  helmets,  swords, 
matchlocks,  coats  of  mail,  Chinese  lanthorns,  flags,  silk 
scarves  consecrated  by  the  Grand  Lama  of  Tibet, 
arranged  with  the  most  perfect  taste.” 

Eden  also  mentions  other  forts,  of  which  only  three 
now  exist,  viz.,  Tayo-jong,  Doman-jong,  and  Suri-jong, 
as  the  very  large  one,  Chubyakha-j ong,  is  entirely  in  ruins. 
The  large  wooden  bridge  across  the  Par-chhu  is  kept  in  good 
order,  and  on  the  river-bank  below  the  fort,  close  to  where 
a covered  way  from  the  castle  meets  the  water,  is  a very 
picturesque  chapel,  built  into  a recess  of  the  rock,  and 
dedicated  to  the  tutelary  deity  of  the  place. 

The  Penlop,  his  senior  wife  and  son,  came  to  lunch  with 
me  the  following  day ; but  it  was  a dull  proceeding,  for  my 
guests  would  eat  and  drink  nothing,  their  excuse  being  that 
it  was  the  8th  of  the  Tibetan  month,  and  therefore  a fast 
day,  an  excuse  I had  to  accept,  although  it  happened  to  be 
the  9th,  and  not  the  8th.  The  lady  tried  to  make  con- 
versation, and  showed  great  interest  in  a stereoscope,  but 
also  said  it  gave  her  a headache.  My  clerk’s  attempt  to 
entertain  the  smaller  officials  at  the  same  time  was  not 
much  more  successful,  as  although  religious  scruples  did 
127 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 


not  prevent  them  making  a hearty  meal  and  taking  away 
with  them  the  wine  they  were  unable  to  drink,  after  their 
departure  the  air  thermometer  of  my  boiling-point  appa- 
ratus could  not  be  found,  which  was  annoying,  as  it  left 
me  without  a second  instrument  to  verify  my  readings. 
During  lunch  the  band  of  the  escort  and  the  gramophone 
provided  music  for  our  guests’  entertainment. 

The  next  day  we  determined  to  visit  Dug-gye-jong, 
and  although  it  was  cloudy  we  had  a very  pleasant  ride  up 
the  valley  over  a road  ascending  very  gradually,  though  in 
many  places  we  found  the  soling  of  large  stones  very 
troublesome  both  for  riding  and  walking.  At  Long-gong, 
about  five  miles  from  Paro,  there  is  a pretty  village  and 
orchard  of  walnut-trees,  where  the  Thumba  or  headman  of 
that  part  of  the  valley  lives,  and  on  the  cliffs  opposite,  to  the 
east,  is  the  more  than  usually  inaccessible  monastery  of 
Paro-ta-tshang.  We  also  saw  in  the  distance  the  monas- 
tery of  Sang-chen-cho-khor,  from  which  the  present  Deb 
Raja  came.  At  the  end  of  nine  miles  we  rode  up  to  the 
fort  of  Dug-gye,  also  built  in  the  days  of  the  first  Shab- 
dung  in  commemoration  of  a victory  over  the  Tibetans. 

I cannot  describe  it  better  than  Captain  Turner  does  ; 
the  scene  does  not  seem  to  have  altered  in  the  least.  “We 
entered  Dug-gye-jong,  a fortress  built  upon  the  crown  of  a 
low,  rocky  hill,  which  it  entirely  occupies,  conforming  itself 
to  the  shape  of  the  summit,  the  slope  all  round  beginning 
from  the  foundation  of  its  walls. 

“ The  approach  to  the  only  entrance  is  defended  by 
three  round  towers,  placed  between  the  castle  and  the  foot 
of  the  hill,  and  connected  together  by  a double  wall,  so  that 
a safe  communication  between  them  is  preserved  even  in 
times  of  the  greatest  peril.  Around  each  of  these  towers, 
near  the  top,  a broad  ledge  projects,  the  edges  of  which  are 
fortified  by  a mud  wall,  with  loopholes  adapted  to  the  use 
of  the  bow  and  arrow  or  of  muskets.  On  the  north  of  the 
castle  are  two  round  towers  that  command  the  road  from 
Tibet.  On  the  east  side  the  rock  is  rough  and  steep  ; and 
128 


PARO  TA-TSHANG  MONASTERY 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

close  under  the  walls  on  the  west  is  a large  basin  of  water, 
the  only  reservoir  I had  seen  in  Bhutan. 

“The  castle  of  Dug-gye-jong  is  a very  substantial 
stone  building,  with  high  walls,  but  so  irregular  is  its  figure 
that  it  is  evident  no  other  design  was  followed  in  its  con- 
struction than  to  cover  all  the  level  space  on  the  top  of  the 
hill  on  which  it  stands.  Having  ascended  to  the  gateway 
at  the  foot  of  the  walls,  we  had  still  to  mount  about  a 
dozen  steps  through  a narrow  passage,  after  which  we  landed 
upon  a semicircular  platform  edged  with  a strong  wall 
pierced  with  loopholes.  Turning  to  the  right,  we  passed 
through  a second  gateway,  and  went  along  a wide  lane  with 
stables  for  horses  on  each  side.  The  third  gateway  con- 
ducted us  to  the  interior  of  the  fortress,  being  a large 
square,  the  angles  of  which  had  three  suites  of  rooms.  In 
the  centre  of  the  square  was  a temple  dedicated  to  Maha- 
moonie  and  his  concomitant  idols.” 

I found  the  whole  of  the  premises  very  clean  ; the 
J ongpen,  who  was  appointed  by,  and  is  a staunch  adherent 
of,  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  and  who  had  been  to  Lhasa  in  his 
suite,  received  us  most  cordially,  and  entertained  us  with  a 
Bhutanese  lunch  of  scrambled  eggs  and  sweet  rice  coloured 
with  saffron,  accompanied  by  murwah  (beer)  and  chang 
(spirit),  also  coloured  with  saffron,  fresh  milk,  and  a dessert 
of  walnuts  and  dried  fruits.  His  wife,  who  prepared  the 
meal,  was  one  of  the  cleanest  and  best-looking  women  I 
have  seen  in  Bhutan,  and  her  little  boy,  wearing  an  exact 
copy,  in  miniature,  of  his  father’s  dress,  was  a nice  little 
chap. 

The  Dug-gye  armoury  is  said  to  be  the  best  in  the 
country,  and  is  contained  in  a fine  room  with  a large  bow 
window  facing  south  and  looking  down  the  valley — in  the 
Tongsa  Penlop’s  opinion,  the  best  balcony  in  Bhutan. 
In  the  outer  courtyard  men  were  making  gunpowder.  A 
silversmith  and  a wood-turner  were  also  at  work,  and  in  the 
inner  courtyard  were  piles  of  shingles  (pieces  of  flat  wood) 
ready  for  re-roofing  the  castle,  which  has  to  be  entirely 
129  1 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

re-done  every  five  years.  Altogether  there  was  an  air  of 
bustling  activity  which  was  pleasant  to  meet  with.  Up 
the  valley  lies  the  nearest  road  to  Phari,  a short  three  days’ 
march  for  a laden  coolie,  and  it  was  along  this  route  the 
Chinese  Mission  passed  when  bringing  a decoration  for  the 
Tongsa  Penlop  in  1886. 

We  struck  camp  early  the  next  morning,  and  on  our  way 
bade  the  Paro  Penlop  farewell  at  the  entrance  to  the  castle. 
The  ascent,  which  I think  must  have  been  a short  cut,  and 
not  the  regular  road,  was  very  rough  and  steep  up  to  the 
Tayo-jong,  the  curious  rounded  fort  described  by  Eden. 

“ One  of  them  is  a curious  building  formed  of  two 
semicircles,  one  large  and  the  other  small,  built  up  one 
against  the  other  for  about  five  stories  high.” 

The  road  beyond  was  very  good,  and  ascended  gradually 
to  the  pass,  8900  feet,  near  the  Beila-jong.  A steeper 
road  on  the  other  side  led  us  down  to  Pemithang,  the  seat 
of  an  inferior  official  who  calls  himself  a Penlop,  where  we 
camped  under  walnut-trees.  The  so-called  Penlop  was  a 
pleasant,  stout  man,  who  did  his  best  to  make  us  com- 
fortable. We  found  some  of  his  boys  playing  quoits,  a 
very  favourite  game  amongst  the  Bhutanese,  and  close  by 
a curious  succession  of  mendongs,  or  prayer-walls,  which 
was  most  unusual,  as  the  mendong  ordinarily  consists  of 
one  long  wall,  but  here  there  was  a succession  of  three. 

We  left  Pemithang  early,  and  instead  of  going  to 
Tashi-cho-jong  via  the  Pami-la,  we  followed  the  Pemi-chhu 
to  its  junction  with  the  Tchin-chhu,  the  road,  a very  good 
one,  never  being  far  above  the  water.  The  hills  on  either 
side  were  tliickly  wooded,  with  beautiful  masses  of  flowering 
pear  and  peach,  but  at  the  junction  with  the  Tchin-chhu, 
where  we  turned  east  up  the  stream,  the  whole  aspect  of 
the  country  suddenly  changed  to  barren  hills,  with  sparse 
and  stunted  trees,  chiefly  Pinus  longi folium. 

On  the  left  bank,  about  two  miles  up,  we  saw  a house 
conspicuous  for  its  cared- for  appearance,  and  found  that  it 
belonged  to  the  ex-Paro  Penlop,  who  was  for  years  one  of 
130 


DUG-GYE-JONG 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

our  pensioners  at  Kalimpong.  It  says  a great  deal  for  Sir 
Ugyen  Wang-chuk  that  he  allowed  this  man,  one  of  his 
most  powerful  enemies,  to  return  to  his  old  home  and  die 
there  in  peace,  and  then  allowed  the  widow  and  daughters 
to  remain  on  unmolested  in  the  pretty  place. 

We  reached  our  camping-ground  at  Chalimaphe  after 
rather  an  uninteresting  march,  and  pitched  our  tents  round 
one  of  the  largest  weeping  cypresses  I have  ever  seen.  It 
measured  fifty  feet  round  the  trunk  five  feet  above  the 
ground.  This  would  have  been  a pleasant  halting-place 
but  for  the  howling  wind  that  roared  up  the  valley  and 
nearly  blew  our  tents  down,  so  we  were  not  sorry  to  be  off 
the  next  day,  more  especially  as  this  proved  to  be  quite  the 
most  interesting  day  I had  yet  spent  in  Bhutan. 

Mounting  our  mules,  we  started  early,  and  almost  at  once 
came  in  sight  of  Simtoka,  the  oldest  fort  in  the  country. 
Turning  to  the  left,  we  rode  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
Tchin-chhu,  where,  about  half  a mile  further  on,  I saw  a 
fine  cantilever  bridge  carrying  a large  wooden  channel 
with  a stream  of  water  across  the  Tchin-chhu  to  irrigate 
a succession  of  rice-fields  on  the  opposite  side.  I have 
particularly  noticed  during  my  travels  in  the  country  how 
remarkably  skilful  the  Bhutanese  are  in  laying  out  canals 
and  irrigation  channels,  and  the  clever  way  in  which  they 
overcome  what  to  ordinary  people  would  be  insurmountable 
difficulties  in  leading  the  water  over  steep,  difficult  places 
on  bridges  or  masonry  aqueducts,  often  built  up  to  a great 
height.  Riding  on,  the  plain  opened  up  into  cultivation, 
extending  its  entire  width  and  far  up  the  mountain  slopes, 
which  were  only  sparsely  clothed  with  forest.  We  crossed 
the  Tchin-chhu,  and  shortly  passed  on  our  right  a con- 
spicuous knoll  in  the  very  centre  of  the  plain.  This  marks 
the  scene  of  an  act  of  treachery  on  the  part  of  the  present 
Paro  Penlop  that  materially  changed  the  course  of  events 
in  Bhutan,  and  was  the  beginning  of  the  Tongsa  Penlop’s 
power. 

In  1885  Gau-Zangpo  was  Deb  Raja,  and  Aloo  Dorji  the 
131 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Thimbu  or  Tashi-cho-jong  Jongpen,  while  Sir  Ugyen  Wang- 
chuk,  then  about  twenty-four  years  of  age,  had  succeeded 
his  father,  Jigme  Namgyal,  better  known  as  Deb  Nagpo,  or 
the  Black  Deb,  as  Tongsa  Penlop,  and  Dow  Penjo,  first 
cousin  to  Deb  Nagpo,  was  and  still  is  Penlop  of  Paro.  Two 
factions  formed.  On  the  one  side  were  Deb  Gau-Zangpo, 
Aloo  Dorji,  the  Thimbu  Jongpen,  and  the  Poonakha  Jong- 
pen, brother-in-law  to  Aloo  Dorji,  and  who  naturally 
supported  him.  On  the  other  side  were  ranged  the  Tongsa 
and  the  Paro  Penlops,  assisted  by  some  of  the  smaller 
Jongpens.  The  cause  of  the  final  rupture  was  the  action 
of  Aloo’s  party,  who,  taking  advantage  of  Ugyen  Wang- 
chuk’s  youth  and  supposed  weakness,  withheld  from  him 
for  three  years  his  rightful  share  of  the  British  subsidy  ; 
in  return  Ugyen  refused  to  pay  his  quota  towards  the 
maintenance  of  the  Ta-tshang,  or  Government  monks,  who 
belong  to  the  five  monasteries  of  Poonakha,  Tashi-cho-jong, 
Paro,  Angdu-phodang,  and  Tongsa,  in  number  about  3000 
souls.  This,  however,  was  a losing  transaction,  as  the 
Tongsa’s  share  of  the  subsidy  was  a much  larger  sum ; so, 
failing  to  receive  an  account  or  satisfaction  of  any  kind, 
Ugyen  collected  his  followers,  to  the  number  of  about 
4000,  and,  crossing  the  hills,  came  down  near  Chalimaphe. 
He  himself  went  boldly  to  Tashi-cho-jong,  where  the  Deb 
and  the  Thimbu  were  residing,  and  bearded  them  in  their 
den,  demanding  satisfaction  and  accusing  them  of  base 
ingratitude  to  their  benefactor  Deb  Nagpo ; and,  when  his 
demands  were  laughed  at,  retorted  that  if  they  wished 
to  fight  he  was  quite  ready.  Returning  to  his  men,  he 
attempted  to  surprise  Tashi-cho-jong  by  crossing  the  moun- 
tains to  the  south-east;  but  his  enemies  discovered  his 
move,  set  the  grass  on  the  lower  slopes  of  the  hills  on  fire, 
and  the  Tongsa  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  saving  his 
men  from  being  suffocated  by  the  smoke ; and  how  choking 
and  pungent  the  fumes  from  such  fires  can  be  I have  had 
painful  experience  myself.  He  next  attempted  to  storm 
the  fort  at  Simtoka,  which  was  strongly  held  by  the  Thimbu’s 
132 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
men,  the  Jongpen  himself  keeping  well  out  of  the  way  at 
Tashi-cho-jong  ; but  the  day  went  against  the  eastern  party, 
and  they  were  beginning  to  waver  and  fall  back,  whereupon 
Ugyen  Wang-chuk  himself  rushed  into  the  van,  upbraiding 
and  even  striking  his  men,  and  made  such  an  impression 
on  his  leaderless  foes  that  they  fled  panic-stricken,  and  left 
the  fort  of  Simtoka  with  its  granaries  an  easy  prize  in  his 
hands.  After  waiting  a day  or  two  to  recruit,  the  Tongsa’s 
troops  moved  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Tchin-chhu,  and 
there  were  more  skirmishes,  indecisive,  but  attended  by 
much  loss,  principally  the  burning  of  houses,  destruction  of 
crops,  &c.  At  this  juncture  the  Paro  Penlop  appeared  on 
the  scene,  and  suggested  to  the  Poonakha  Jongpen,  Aloo’s 
chief  supporter,  that  if  they  held  a conference  they  might 
be  able  to  settle  the  dispute  and  prevent  further  bloodshed  ", 
and  Poonakha,  suspecting  nothing,  came  to  the  knoll  we  . 
were  looking  at.  The  conference  lasted  some  time  without 
much  result,  when  an  adjournment  was  made  for  lunch ; 
and  while  the  soldiers  belonging  to  the  Jongpen  were  busy 
preparing  their  food  on  some  level  ground  near  the  river 
to  which  they  had  been  inveigled,  the  Paro’s  followers, 
taking  advantage  of  their  opponents  being  off  their  guard, 
rushed  on  the  defenceless  men.  The  Poonakha  Jongpen 
was  stabbed  to  death  as  he  sat  on  the  ground,  and  many 
of  his  men  were  massacred.  The  Tongsa’s  army  then 
marched  unopposed  to  some  villages  on  the  west  of  the 
castle,  and  during  the  night  Aloo  Dorji,  who  seems  to  have 
been  a cowardly  braggart,  in  alarm  for  his  own  safety,, 
abandoned  Tashi-cho-jong  and  fled  over  the  hills  to> 
Poonakha,  and  from  thence,  after  gathering  up  such  of  his 
property  as  he  could  lay  hands  on,  continued  his  flight  via 
Ghassa-la  into  Tibet,  when  he  appealed  to  China  and  Tibet 
for  help.  The  Chinese  and  Tibetans  despatched  envoys 
with  the  object  of  mediation,  but  their  overtures  were 
rejected  by  the  Bhutanese,  and  soon  after  the  Sikhim  Ex- 
pedition of  1888-9  broke  the  power  and  influence  of  the 
Tibetans,  and  the  cause  of  Aloo  Dorji,  who  fought  on  their 
133  .. 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

side  in  the  attack  on  Gnatong  in  May  1888  was  lost.  All 
subsequent  attempts  at  interference  by  the  Chinese  and 
Tibetans  were  frustrated  by  the  closer  relationships  with 
the  Penlops  which  we  maintained  henceforth,  and  thus 
Ugyen  Wang-chuk’s  influence  in  Bhutan  was  firmly 
established. 

Paul  has,  however,  told  me  that,  when  he  was  informed 
of  the  occurrence  at  the  time,  the  death  of  the  Poonakha 
Jongpen  was  not  ascribed  to  the  result  of  a deliberately 
planned  scheme  of  treachery ; that  the  meeting  was 
honestly  held  for  the  purpose  of  arranging  a compromise, 
but  a quarrel  arose  between  the  followers  of  the  rival 
factions,  in  which  one  of  the  Paro  men  had  his  arm  sliced 
off,  and  on  his  rushing  into  the  presence  of  the  leaders  his 
comrades  avenged  him  by  stabbing  the  Jongpen  with  their 
daggers.  But  whatever  may  have  happened,  there  is 
nothing  to  show  that  the  young  Tongsa  was  cognisant  of 
the  plot,  and  when  the  castle  of  Tashi-cho-jong  was  aban- 
doned the  Tongsa  himself  had  the  gates  firmly  secured, 
and,  standing  before  the  main  entrance,  prevented  his 
soldiers  from  breaking  in  and  looting  the  palace.  He  had 
even  to  shoot  one  of  his  own  men  before  order  could  be 
restored,  and  that  was  hardly  the  action  of  a man  who  would 
lend  his  countenance  to  so  mean  an  act  of  treachery. 

After  leaving  this  knoll,  called  Changlingane-thang, 
with  these  interesting  historical  associations,  we  soon 
arrived  at  the  castle  of  Tashi-cho-jong,  an  imposing  edifice 
in  the  form  of  a parallelogram,  the  sides  parallel  to  the 
river  being  twice  the  length  of  the  other  two.  It  differs 
from  other  forts  in  one  particular ; it  possesses  two  large 
gateways,  one  on  the  south ; the  other,  on  the  river-face,  and 
protected  on  the  west  and  north  by  a wide  fosse  filled  with 
water,  is  only  opened  for  the  Deb  and  Dharma  Rajas,  and 
was  closed  at  the  time  of  my  visit.  Unlike  Paro  and 
Poonakha,  the  bridge  across  the  Tchin-chhu  was  not  con- 
nected with  the  castle,  and  just  below  it  was  a wooden 
structure,  cleverly  designed  to  catch  the  timber  floated 
134 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
down  the  river  from  the  distant  hills  for  use  in  the  castle. 
The  interior  of  the  castle  is  divided  into  two  unequal 
portions  by  a high,  strong  wall,  the  larger  section,  to  the 
south,  containing  the  usual  square  tower,  measuring  about 
85  feet  each  way,  and  in  it  are  situated  the  chapel  and 
private  apartments  of  the  Dharma  Raja.  The  original 
tower  was  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  in  1897,  and  the 
present  structure  was  finished  about  1902 ; but  it  has  been 
badly  built,  as  the  main  walls  were  cracking  already  and 
the  interior  showed  signs  of  unequal  subsidence.  The 
decorations,  of  course,  are  quite  modern. 

In  the  south-east  angle  of  the  courtyard  beyond  are  the 
public  or  living  quarters  of  the  Dharma  Raja,  and  on  the 
west  front  those  of  the  Thimbu  Jongpen,  where  we  were 
hospitably  entertained.  The  northern  and  smaller  section 
of  the  castle  is  occupied  entirely  by  the  Ta-tshang,  or  State 
lamas,  and  is  not  usually  open  to  laymen.  The  dividing 
wall  is  surmounted  by  a row  of  white  chotens,  protected 
from  the  weather  by  a double  roof,  and  in  the  centre  of  the 
inner  courtyard  is  an  extremely  fine  hall  of  audience  or 
worship,  120  feet  square  and  at  least  50  feet  high.  It  is 
well  lighted,  and  decorated  with  fresco  paintings,  and  when 
the  silken  ceiling-cloths  and  embroidered  curtains  and 
banners  are  hung  it  must  look  extremely  well,  but  the 
lamas  were  absent  at  Poonakha,  and  all  the  decorations 
were  either  carefully  put  away  or  taken  with  them.  A 
succession  of  chapels  was  built  on  the  west  side,  one  of  which, 
a splendid  example  of  good  Bhutanese  art,  the  door-handles 
of  which,  of  pierced  ironwork  inlaid  with  gold,  were  ex- 
ceptionally beautiful,  had  been  presented  by  the  Deb 
Nagpo.  It  was  said  to  contain  1000  images  of  Buddha, 
and  the  number  is  very  likely  correct,  as  I counted  more 
than  600,  while  the  pair  of  elephant’s  tusks  supporting  the 
altar,  which  I have  remarked  as  an  essential  ornament  to 
the  chief  altar  in  every  Bhutanese  chapel  I have  visited, 
were  larger  than  usual. 

A short  distance  further  up  the  valley  we  passed 
i35 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Dichen-phodang,  the  private  residence  of  the  Thimbu 
Jongpen,  which  appeared  to  be  a fine  building,  but  I did 
not  visit  it.  Above,  on  a commanding  height,  is  the  very- 
large  monastery  of  Pha-ju-ding,  formerly  one  of  the  richest 
houses  in  Bhutan,  but  which  has  now  fallen  on  evil  days 
and  is  out  of  repair,  while  most  of  its  ornaments  have 
either  been  stolen  or  have  disappeared,  and  I could  not  find 
time  to  visit  it.  We  had  a pleasant  ride  back  to  camp, 
but  in  the  evening  a more  than  usually  strong  gale  of  wind 
blew,  with  some  rain,  and  two  or  three  miles  down  the 
valley  it  seemed  to  fall  in  torrents. 


136 


CHAPTER  XIV 

MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN — continued 


From  Tashi-cho-jong  to  Tongsa-jong.  Simtoka-jong.  Entry 
into  Poonakha.  The  Deb  Raja.  Presentation  of  K.C.I.E. 
Description  of  Poonakha  Fort.  Expedition  to  Norbugang  and 
Talo  Monasteries.  Visit  of  the  Tango  Lama.  So-na-ga-sa 
the  Zemri-gatchie  of  Turner.  Farewell  visit  to  the  Deb. 
Angdu-phodang.  Death  of  my  dog  Nari.  ThePele-la.  Tongsa- 
jong.  Bad  roads.  Water-power  prayer-wheels.  The  ceremony 
of  blessing  the  rice-fields. 

We  left  Tashi-cho-jong  early  next  morning  in  lovely 
weather,  with  the  thunder  of  a salute  of  thirty  guns  rever- 
berating through  the  air,  and  soon  arrived  at  Simtoka-jong, 
which  is  situated  on  a projecting  ridge,  with  deep  gullies 
separating  it  from  the  main  hill.  It  looks  old,  and  is  not  in 
very  good  repair.  On  the  four  sides  of  the  central  square 
tower,  instead  of  the  usual  row  of  prayer- wheels,  we  found 
a row  of  square  slabs  of  dark  slate,  carved  in  low  relief 
with  pictures  of  saints  and  holy  men.  It  was  a wonderful 
collection  of  different  types,  with  no  monotonous  repetition 
of  the  same  figure,  whence  derived  I cannot  imagine, 
unless,  indeed,  of  Chinese  origin,  as  the  variety  reminded 
me  of  the  1000  statues  in  the  temple  in  Canton,  where  one 
figure  is  pointed  out  as  Marco  Polo.  In  Simtoka  one  face 
is  a very  unflattering  likeness  of  the  German  Emperor. 
In  the  chapel  itself,  beneath  a magnificent  carved  canopy, 
was  one  of  the  finest  bronze  images  of  Buddha  that  I have 
seen;  it  was  supported  on  either  side  by  a number  of 
standing  figures  of  more  than  life  size.  ^ 

13  7 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

From  Simtoka  a good  road  led  us  up  the  Lhung-tso 
Valley  to  the  Dokyong-la  (9570  feet),  through  beautiful 
glades  of  oak,  chestnut,  and  rhododendron,  while  on  the 
higher  slopes  forests  of  Pinus  excelsa  reappeared,  in  pleasant 
contrast  to  the  barren  slopes  of  the  past  two  days.  But 
on  reaching  the  east  side  of  the  pass  we  seemed  suddenly 
to  come  into  a completely  changed  climate,  and  the  valley 
we  were  entering  might  have  been  in  Sikhim,  not  Bhutan. 
It  was  evidently  a wet  zone,  and  with  a very  bad  path 
leading  to  our  camp  at  Lungme-tsa-wa,  we  were  glad  when 
our  march  was  over. 

Next  day  we  continued  our  descent  down  a steepish 
lane  overhung  by  rhododendrons  in  full  bloom,  until  we 
reached  a bridge  across  the  Teo-pe-rong-chhu.  After 
crossing  we  gradually  ascended  a fair  road  on  the  side  of 
hills  quite  different  from  those  on  the  opposite  side,  sparsely 
clothed  with  Pinus  longifolia , and  a remarkable  contrast  to 
the  flowering  thickets  on  the  way  down.  High  above  us 
were  the  monasteries  of  Norbugang  and  Ta-lo,  and  after 
rounding  a ridge  which  parts  the  Mochu-Pochu  from  the 
Teo-pe-rong-chhu  we  again  began  to  descend  to  our  camp 
at  Gang-chung-Dorona  (5800  feet),  the  last  before  reaching 
Poonakha.  Neither  Poonakha  nor  Angdu-phodang  were 
at  any  point  visible. 

It  was  in  heavy  rain  next  morning  that  we  had  to  make 
our  entry  into  the  capital  of  Bhutan;  along  a road  of  heavy 
clay,  on  which  it  was  almost  impossible  to  keep  one’s  footing. 
Close  by  a choten  built  at  the  junction  of  two  valleys,  and 
commanding  a most  picturesque  view  of  the  castle,  I was 
met  by  a curious  collection  of  musicians,  dancers,  &c.,  in 
gay  clothing,  sadly  out  of  keeping  with  the  constant  rain 
and  mud.  Preceded  by  them,  we  managed  in  time  to 
reach  the  bridge  across  the  Mo-chhu,  and  after  a little  pause 
to  cross,  under  a salute  of  guns — fifty  now  instead  of  thirty 
— heartily  glad  to  reach  the  shelter  of  our  camp,  where 
a wooden  house  of  two  rooms  was  prepared  for  us. 

In  the  camp  waiting  to  receive  me  were  the  Tongsa 
138 


POONA  KHA-JONG 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

Penlop,  the  Thimbu  and  Poonakha  J ongpens,  Zung  Donyer, 
and  Deb  Zimpon.  The  first  three  I had  met  in  Tibet,  and 
the  last  two  at  Buxa.  They  greeted  me  most  cordially 
and  condoled  with  me  on  the  weather,  making  many 
inquiries  about  our  journey  and  whether  we  had  encountered 
much  difficulty;  then,  in  a short  time,  the  rain  having 
ceased,  they  took  their  departure  and  left  us  to  settle  down 
in  our  quarters.  For  myself  a large,  comfortable  Swiss 
cottage  tent  had  been  pitched,  and  a smaller  one,  dyed 
blue,  with  an  embroidered  top,  for  Major  Rennick,  in 
addition  to  a very  good  cook-house  and  some  ranges  of  fine 
mat-sheds,  and  these,  with  my  own  tents  and  camp  equipage, 
provided  us  with  a luxurious  encampment.  I also  had  a 
great  compliment  paid  me,  as  the  Deb  Raja’s  band  played 
in  front  of  us  all  through  the  outer  courtyard  right  into 
the  camp,  an  honour  not  paid  even  to  the  Tongsa  Penlop 
himself  beyond  the  entrance  to  the  bridge. 

The  next  day  I spent  receiving  visits  of  ceremony  from 
the  Tongsa,  the  head  Ta-tshang  lamas,  and  other  officials, 
and  in  disposing  of  an  accumulation  of  official  work. 
Whilst  paying  my  return  visits  to  the  Tongsa  Penlop  and 
the  officers  in  the  fort  I also  paid  my  respects  to  the  Deb 
Raj  a,  who  received  me  in  his  private  apartments  with  great 
cordiality,  and  thanked  the  Indian  Government  for  having 
sent  me  on  such  a friendly  visit  to  his  little  country,  while 
hoping  his  people  had  obeyed  his  instructions  to  look  after 
my  comfort  in  every  way. 

The  Deb  Raja  is  a great  recluse,  and  occupies  himself 
entirely  with  the  spiritual  affairs  of  the  country,  although, 
owing  to  the  failure  to  discover  a reincarnation  after  the 
death  of  the  late  Dharma  Raja,  he  holds  both  offices  ; but 
meanwhile  all  temporal  affairs  are  managed  entirely  by  the 
Tongsa  Penlop  and  his  council,  while  in  the  Deb  Raja  all 
spiritual  power  is  vested. 

In  the  afternoon  I had  a long  interview  with  the  Tongsa 
Penlop,  who  came  to  see  me  unofficially,  and  we  dis- 
cussed many  matters,  and  amongst  others  the  question  of 

139 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

extradition.  He  informed  me  that  Bhutan  had  lately  made 
an  arrangement  with  Tibet  regarding  refugees,  who  were 
not  to  be  returned  unless  some  crime  was  proved  against 
them,  although  formerly  either  State  was  obliged  to  send  back 
all  refugees.  The  Penlop  dined  with  us,  and  we  arranged 
that  the  presentation  of  the  insignia  of  his  Knight  Com- 
mandership  should  be  made  on  the  following  morning  in 
open  Durbar,  presided  over  by  the  Deb  Raja  himself. 

Unfortunately,  on  the  morning  of  the  Durbar  it  rained 
heavily,  but  cleared  up  before  the  ceremony,  which  was 
held  in  the  Palace  of  Poonakha  in  a large  hall.  As  soon 
as  we  learnt  that  everything  was  in  readiness  we  formed  a 
small  procession  from  the  camp,  Major  Rennick  and  my- 
self in  full  dress  uniform,  preceded  by  our  escort  under 
Subadar  Jehandad  Khan,  40th  Pathans,  and  proceeded  to 
the  fort,  where  we  were  ushered  with  great  ceremony  into 
the  Durbar  Hall. 

This  is  a fine,  handsome  room,  with  a wide  balcony 
overlooking  the  river  Po-chhu,  and  with  a double  row  of 
pillars  forming  two  aisles.  The  centre  or  nave,  a wide  space 
open  to  the  lofty  roof,  was  hung  with  a canopy  of  beauti- 
fully embroidered  Chinese  silk.  Between  the  pillars  were 
suspended  chenzi  and  gyentsen  hangings  of  brilliantly 
coloured  silks,  and  behind  the  Tongsa  Penlop’ s seat  a fine 
specimen  of  kuthang,  or  needlework  picture,  a form  of 
embroidery  in  which  the  Bhutanese  excel,  and  which 
compares  favourably  with  anything  I have  seen  in  other 
parts  of  the  world. 

At  the  upper  or  north  end  of  the  room  was  the  high 
altar  and  images  always  to  be  met  with  in  Bhutanese 
chapels,  and  in  front  of  this  was  a raised  dais,  piled  with 
cushions,  on  which  sat  the  Deb  Raja,  in  a rich  yellow  silk 
stole  over  his  red  monastic  dress,  with  the  abbot  of  the 
Poonakha  Ta-tshang  lamas  in  ordinary  canonicals  on  his 
left.  To  the  right  of  the  dais  was  a line  of  four  scarlet- 
covered  chairs  for  myself,  Major  Rennick,  Mr.  Paul,  and 
the  Subadar,  and  in  front  of  each  chair  was  a small  table 
140 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
with  fruit  and  refreshments.  Close  behind  us  stood  my 
orderlies  with  presents.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  nave, 
facing  me,  was  a low  dais  with  a magnificent  cushion  of  the 
richest  salmon-coloured  brocade,  on  which  Sir  Ugyen  Wang- 
chuk  sat,  dressed  in  a handsome  robe  of  dark  blue  Chinese 
silk,  embroidered  in  gold  with  the  Chinese  character  “ Fu,” 
the  sign  emblematical  of  good  luck.  Below  him  were 
ranged  the  chairs  of  all  the  officials  present,  the  Thimbu 
Jongpen,  the  Poonakha  Jongpen,  the  Zung  Donyer,  and  the 
Deb  Zimpon.  The  Taka  Penlop  had  come  to  Poonakha, 
but  was  too  ill  to  leave  his  bed  ; the  Paro  Penlop  was  unable 
to  travel  owing  to  the  state  of  his  leg,  and  had  made  his 
excuses  personally  on  my  way  through  Paro  and  had  sent 
a representative ; and  the  office  of  the  Angdu-phodang 
Jongpen  had  not  been  filled.  In  the  aisles  were  double 
and  treble  rows  of  the  chief  Ta-tshang  lamas,  seated  on 
white  carpets,  while  four  flagellants,  carrying  brass-bound 
batons  of  office  and  formidable  double-thonged  whips  of 
rhinoceros-hide,  walked  up  and  down  between  the  rows  to 
maintain  order.  At  the  lower  end,  by  which  we  had 
entered,  were  collected  the  subordinate  officials  of  the 
court,  standing,  with  my  own  escort  formed  up  in  front  of 
them,  facing  the  Deb  at  the  lower  end  of  the  nave.  It 
was  altogether  a brilliant  and  imposing  scene. 

After  my  party  and  the  high  officers  of  state,  who  had 
risen  on  my  approach,  had  taken  their  seats  there  was  a 
short  pause  for  order  and  silence  to  be  restored.  I then 
rose  and  directed  Rai  Lobzang  Choden  Sahib  to  read  my 
short  address  in  Tibetan,  which  I had  purposely  curtailed, 
as  I foresaw  that  the  Bhutanese  portion  of  the  ceremony 
would  be  a lengthy  one.  My  remarks  seemed  to  give  general 
satisfaction,  and  at  their  conclusion  I stepped  forward, 
with  Major  Rennick  carrying  the  Insignia  and  Warrant  on 
a dark  blue  cushion  fringed  with  silver,  in  front  of  the 
Deb  Raja  as  the  Tongsa  Penlop  advanced  from  his  side  to 
meet  me.  With  a few  words  appropriate  to  the  occasion, 
I placed  the  ribbon  of  the  order  round  his  neck,  pinned  on 
141 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

the  star,  and  handed  the  warrant  to  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk. 
Major  Rennick  and  myself  then  returned  to  our  seats, 
while  the  Penlop,  still  standing  before  the  dais,  expressed 
his  thanks  for  the  honour  the  King-Emperor  had  conferred 
on  him.  I again  advanced,  and  presented  Sir  Ugyen  with 
a rifle,  my  photographs  of  Lhasa  and  Tibet,  and  among 
other  things  a silver  bowl  filled  with  rice,  the  emblem  of 
material  prosperity,  in  commemoration  of  the  day’s  cere- 
mony, and,  finally,  placing  a white  silk  scarf  on  his  hands, 
offered  him  my  hearty  congratulations  and  good  wishes. 
Major  Rennick  and  the  Subadar  also  offered  scarves,  with 
their  congratulations;  and  finally  Mr.  Paul,  as  an  old 
friend  of  more  than  thirty  years’  standing,  in  a few  words 
wished  the  Deb,  Bhutan,  and  the  new  Knight  all  prosperity 
and  heartily  congratulated  them  on  the  new  era  opening 
before  them.  This  brought  our  part  of  the  ceremony  to  a 
conclusion,  and  we  remained  interested  spectators  of  what 
followed. 

First  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk  turned  to  the  Deb  Raja 
and  made  his  obeisance.  The  Deb,  who,  as  the  Cholay 
Tulku,  is  also  the  spiritual  head  of  the  Bhutanese  Church 
during  the  interval  awaiting  the  reincarnation  of  the 
Dharma  Raja,  gave  Sir  Ugyen  his  pontifical  blessing  and 
placed  three  scarves  round  his  neck.  In  like  manner  Sir 
Ugyen  then  received  the  blessing  of  the  abbot,  and  after- 
wards reseated  himself. 

Now  began  an  almost  interminable  procession  of  lamas, 
officials,  and  retainers,  each  bringing  a scarf  and  presents, 
till  the  Penlop  was  almost  smothered  in  scarves,  while  the 
whole  nave  from  end  to  end  gradually  became  filled  up  with 
heaps  of  tea,  bags  of  rice  and  Indian  corn,  fabrics — silk, 
woollen  and  cotton — of  all  colours  and  values,  with  little 
bags  of  gold  dust  and  rupees  appearing  on  the  top.  As 
each  present  was  placed  on  the  floor  the  name  of  the  donor 
was  announced  by  the  Zung  Donyer.  I had  no  means  of 
j udging,  but  I should  think  there  were  at  least  two  hundred 
donors.  It  was  amusing  to  watch  the  emulation  amongst 
142 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

them  and  the  flourishes  some  of  them  gave  as  they  dumped 
their  presents  with  a bang  on  the  floor  and  whipped  out 
their  scarves  to  their  full  length. 

When  these  congratulations  came  to  an  end  tea  and 
refreshments  were  offered  to  all  the  company  of  guests, 
including  the  lamas  in  the  aisles,  who  at  each  course  intoned 
a sort  of  grace.  Finally  betel  and  pan  were  distributed. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  feast  a large  cauldron  of 
murwah,  or  native  beer,  was  placed  at  the  lower  end  of  the 
nave,  and  an  unusual  ceremony — at  least,  it  was  unusual 
to  me — was  gone  through.  The  Zung  Donyer,  with  a 
long,  bowl-shaped  ladle,  mixed  the  liquid  three  times,  and, 
holding  up  the  bowl  full  of  beer  in  one  hand,  raised  the 
other  in  prayer.  This  ceremony  he  repeated  three  times, 
and  then  advanced  with  his  ladle  full  to  the  Deb  Raja,  who 
blessed  it ; he  then  turned  to  the  Tongsa,  upon  whose 
hands  a small  portion  was  poured ; and  finally  the  Donyer 
returned  and  poured  the  remainder  into  the  cauldron, 
which  was  then  removed,  doubtless  for  the  refreshment  of 
the  crowd  of  onlookers  who  were  not  of  sufficient  im- 
portance to  share  the  tea  and  refreshments  dispensed  in 
the  Durbar  Hall.  Next,  with  great  ceremony,  a wooden 
spear,  with  a piece  of  red  cloth  and  a white  silk  scarf  fastened 
to  the  base  of  the  head,  was  carried  to  the  Deb  and  blessed  ; 
it  was  then  waved  over  the  Tongsa,  who  reverently  touched 
the  end  of  the  shaft.  The  spear  was  then  sent  to  the 
Tongsa’ s apartment.  The  final  act  in  the  ceremonial  was 
a short  prayer,  led  by  the  Deb  and  intoned  by  the  lamas, 
and  with  this  the  proceedings  ended  and  we  returned  to 
our  camp. 

It  was  a most  interesting  ceremony,  and  was  conducted 
throughout  with  the  greatest  order  and  reverence,  and 
passed  off  without  a hitch  of  any  kind.  It  says  a great 
deal  for  the  change  in  the  conduct  of  affairs  in  Bhutan  and 
the  anxiety  to  show  respect  to  the  British  Government 
that  they  should  have  made  the  presentation  of  the  decora- 
tion to  the  Penlop  the  first  occasion  of  so  public  and  elaborate 
i43 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

a ceremony,  as  I understand  that  hitherto  it  has  been  the 
custom  of  the  recipient  of  an  honour  to  go  to  the  Deb  and 
head  lamas  to  receive  their  blessings,  while  congratula- 
tions and' presents  are  received  at  his  private  dwelling. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  incidents  during  my  stay  in 
Poonakha  was  an  expedition  to  the  Norbugang  and  Ta-lo 
monasteries  ; but  equally  full  of  interest  was  the  inspection 
I made  of  the  fort  and  palace  of  Poonakha,  which  I will 
try  to  describe.  Poonakha  is  a typical  example  of  the 
Bhutanese  forts,  which  throughout  the  country  are  built 
after  one  common  plan.  The  site  selected  is  always  a 
commanding  one,  generally  on  a ridge,  with  the  primary 
object  of  defence.  In  the  case  of  Poonakha,  however,  the 
building  is  situated  on  a tongue  of  land  running  down 
between  the  rivers  [Mo-chhu  and  Po-chhu  just  above  the 
junction,  and  as  both  rivers  are  unfordable  three  sides  of 
the  parallelogram  are  most  efficiently  protected  from 
attack.  Access  to  the  Jong  on  the  river  side  is  by  means 
of  two  substantial  cantilever  bridges,  strengthened  by 
strong  gateways  of  heavy  timber  studded  with  iron,  with 
strong  defensive  towers  at  each  end,  through  which  the 
roadway  runs.  On  the  only  land  side  the  fort  is  protected 
by  a massive  masonry  wall,  built  from  river  to  river,  com- 
manding the  open  plain,  which  the  enemy  would  have  to 
cross  to  approach  the  Jong.  There  are  two  strongly 
defended  gateways  in  the  wall. 

Poonakha,  lying  between  the  rivers,  is  easily  supplied 
with  water,  but  other  forts  built  on  a ridge  have  some 
difficulty,  and  are  in  many  cases,  as  at  Dug-gye,  obliged  to 
build  sunk  passages  zigzagging  down  to  the  valley,  and 
protected  by  towers  at  each  turning,  to  ensure  a supply  of 
water  in  the  event  of  a siege.  Where  a fort  is  built  on  the 
side  of  a hill,  as  at  Paro  and  at  Tongsa,  protecting  towers 
are  always  built  above  it. 

The  plan  nearly  always  followed  in  the  forts  is  that  of 
a rough  parallelogram  divided  into  courts.  The  main 
entrance  in  Poonakha  is  approached  by  a steep  flight  of 
14 A 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

wooden  steps  about  20  feet  in  height,  which  in  time  of 
emergency  can  be  easily  removed,  leading  to  the  gateway, 
a massive  wooden  structure,  easily  closed,  and  invariably 
shut  at  night. 

Through  the  gateway  the  first  court  is  reached.  The 
main  citadel  is  situated  in  this  at  the  south  end,  a square 
building,  about  40  feet  at  the  base  and  80  feet  high, 
and  flanking  the  court  on  all  sides  are  the  two-storied 
buildings  used  as  residences  by  the  lay  officials.  Beyond 
the  citadel  there  is  another  court,  also  surrounded  by  double- 
storied dwellings,  and  in  the  building  dividing  this  court 
from  the  next  is  the  larger  Durbar  Hall,  which  stretches 
across  the  whole  width,  the  smaller  Durbar  Hall,  where  the 
presentation  was  held,  lying  to  the  east.  Next  comes 
another  and  smaller  court,  within  which,  to  the  south, 
stands  the  second  and  smaller  citadel,  enclosed  by  more 
buildings.  Beyond  comes  another  court,  given  up  entirely 
to  the  Ta-tshang  lamas,  numbering  about  3000,  the  large 
temple  standing  in  the  centre.  The  lamas’  cells  occupy 
two  sides  of  the  court,  the  third  side  overlooking  the 
junction  of  the  rivers.  Underneath  these  courts  are  a 
few  store-rooms  for  the  housing  of  grain,  but  the  greater 
part  is  filled  in  with  earth  and  rock.  All  the  buildings  are 
roofed  with  shingles  made  of  split  wood,  and  in  this  the 
great  danger,  that  of  fire,  lies,  as  the  shingles  are  easily  set 
alight,  but  otherwise,  in  the  days  of  bows  and  arrows,  such 
forts  were  practically  impregnable,  and  this  one  could,  if 
necessary,  house  6000  souls,  or  even  more.  I did  not  find 
it  as  clean  as  some  of  the  other  forts  I visited,  but  that  was 
probably  owing  to  the  large  numbers  who  had  been  in  it  for 
the  past  six  months ; and  it  must  not  be  imagined  that  it 
was  anything  like  as  dirty  as  the  accounts  of  previous 
travellers  would  lead  one  to  anticipate.  A great  deal  of 
damage  was  done  by  the  earthquake  of  1897,  and  many  of 
the  frescoes  were  seriously  injured  by  having  large  strips 
of  plaster  shaken  off,  but  the  embroidered  banners  and 
brocade  hangings  were  magnificent,  and  a feature  of  the 
i45  K 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

palace  ; but  Poonakha  looks  its  best  and  is  most  picturesque 
from  a distance. 

I gave  a dinner  party  in  the  evening,  at  which  the  Tongsa 
and  J ongpens  and  other  officials  were  present,  and  seemed 
to  enjoy  themselves.  They  were  particularly  pleased  with 
the  magic  lantern,  and  asked  Major  Rennick  to  give  a 
second  display  in  the  fort.  We  did  so  a few  evenings  later 
to  a vast  crowd,  I should  think  of  at  least  a thousand 
people,  who,  from  the  remarks  I at  times  overheard,  took 
a keen  and  intelligent  interest  in  the  performance.  In 
addition  to  slides  made  from  my  Tibetan  pictures,  I had 
several  of  India  and  Europe,  and  we  wetted  the  screen 
thoroughly  to  enable  the  audience  on  both  sides  to 
see. 

My  hospital  assistant  was  in  much  request,  and  amongst 
other  cases  was  called  to  attend  the  murderer  captured  at 
Hah  about  ten  days  before,  who  had  suffered  the  usual 
punishment ; his  right  hand  had  been  cut  off  and  the 
tendons  of  his  right  leg  severed.  The  process  by  which  it 
is  done  is  slow,  and  intended  to  be  merciful,  as  the  skin  of 
the  hand  is  turned  back,  and  the  wrist  then  separated  at 
the  joint  by  a small  knife,  not  injuring  the  bones  of  the  fore- 
arm, and  also  allowing  some  flesh  to  form  a flap.  Medical 
aid  was  not  called  in  early  enough,  but  the  doctor  was 
able  by  repeated  dressings  and  applications  to  give  the 
patient  some  relief,  though  he  did  not  remain  long  enough 
to  ensure  a complete  cure. 

On  a lovely  day  I started  with  Paul  to  visit  the  Ta-lo 
and  Norbugang  Monasteries,  situated  high  up  a mountain 
to  the  west.  The  track,  if  it  deserves  even  that  name, 
must  be  absolutely  impassable  in  wet  weather,  as  it  runs 
entirely  over  red  clay.  As  it  was  we  had  to  walk  a great 
portion  of  the  way  going  there  and  the  whole  distance 
returning.  As  far  as  Norbugang,  about  two  hours’  march, 
the  hillside  was  bare  and  uninteresting,  but  afterwards  we 
passed  through  one  or  two  pretty  glades,  and  the  pear  and 
clematis  blossom  were  beautiful.  After  three  hours  of 
146 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

hard  climbing  we  reached  the  colony  of  Ta-lo.  The  situa- 
tion was  charming.  Small,  well-built  two-storied  houses, 
with  carved  verandahs  and  painted  fronts,  were  scattered, 
each  in  its  little  garden  of  flowers  and  trees,  all  over  the 
hillside,  with  here  and  there  a decorated  choten  to  break 
anything  like  a monotony  of  houses.  The  large  temple 
seemed  to  crown  all  by  its  size,  with  its  background  of 
cypress  and  Pinus  excels  a.  But  we  afterwards  found, 
200  feet  higher,  the  small,  but  beautifully  decorated, 
private  residence  of  the  late  Dharma  Raja,  which  was  an 
even  more  fitting  crown.  The  head  lama  had  sent  his 
band,  with  oranges  and  other  refreshments,  for  us  some 
way  down  the  hill,  and  when  we  emerged  on  the  large 
platform  on  which  the  great  temple  is  built  he,  with  his 
chief  monks,  met  us  and  conducted  us  to  a Bhutanese 
embroidered  tent,  where  he  regaled  us  with  several  kinds 
of  tea  and  liquor,  none,  I fear,  very  palatable  to  our 
European  taste.  Out  of  compliment  to  us,  I suppose,  the 
most  potent  spirit  was  served  in  a very  curious,  old-fashioned 
cut-glass  decanter,  with  a flat  octagonal  stopper.  After 
partaking  of  this  kindly  hospitality,  the  head  lamas,  one  of 
whom  was  eighty-one  years  of  age,  insisted  on  showing  us 
round  themselves.  The  chapels  were  scrupulously  clean, 
and  possessed  some  glass  window-panes,  of  which  they  were 
evidently  very  proud.  Nothing  could  exceed  their  civility  ; 
they  never  hesitated  to  break  seals  or  open  cupboards  if  we 
manifested  the  least  curiosity. 

The  principal  objects  of  interest  were  the  miniature 
chotens  or  caskets  in  which  rest  the  ashes  of  the  first 
and  the  late  Shabdung  Rimpochi ; these  are  made  of 
silver,  highly  chased  and  jewelled,  but  the  jewels  not  of  any 
great  value  from  our  point  of  view — mostly  turquoises  and 
other  semi-precious  stones.  The  sacred  implements  of 
the  late  Dharma  Raja  were  also  on  view,  and  were  fine 
examples  of  the  best  metal-work.  The  pillars  and  canopies 
were  beautifully  carved,  and  then  in  turn  overlaid  with 
open  hammered  metal  scrolls,!  The  whole  impressed  me 
147 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

with  a very  high  opinion  of  Bhutanese  art  and  workman- 
ship, which  is  both  bold  and  intricate.  It  is  a thousand 
pities  that  the  present  impoverishment  of  the  country 
should  give  so  little  encouragement  to  the  continuance  of 
the  old  race  of  artificers.  The  head  lama  himself  com- 
plained of  the  difficulty  he  was  labouring  under  in  com- 
pleting the  memorial  to  the  late  Rimpochi. 

He  then  conducted  us  through  the  pine  forest  to  the 
private  residence  of  the  late  Dharma  Raj  a,  where  from  the 
top  of  the  hill  above  there  is  a beautiful  view.  It  is  a 
perfect  little  dwelling,  charmingly  arranged,  and  full  of 
fine  painted  frescoes  and  carved  wooden  pillars  and  canopies. 
We  were  shown  into  the  room  or  chapel  where  the  late 
Lama  died  and  lay  in  state  for  some  days.  I noticed  that 
my  attendants  and  others  who  were  allowed  to  enter  kow- 
towed to  the  ground  three  times  and  to  the  altar,  and  three 
times  to  the  dais  on  which  the  Lama  had  lain,  and  from  this 
I gathered  that  a high  compliment  must  have  been  paid 
me  by  being  taken  into  the  room.  We  went  back  to  the 
tent,  where  we  found  a lunch  provided  by  the  ladies  of  the 
Ta-ka  Penlop  and  Thimbu  Jongpen,  who  were  related  to 
the  late  Delai  Lama.  They  pressed  us  warmly  to  stay  the 
night,  and  though  I should  have  liked  to  do  so  I did  not 
find  it  possible  to  accept  the  invitation. 

On  my  way  back  I visited  the  temples  at  Norbugang, 
and  was  very  glad  I did  so,  though  the  lower  one  looked 
so  dilapidated  and  neglected  from  the  outside  that  I almost 
resolved  not  to  risk  the  steep  and  rickety  ladders  that  do 
duty  for  staircases.  Luckily  I went  in,  and  found  the 
chapel  was  full  of  excellent  specimens  of  both  metal  and 
embroidered  applique  work.  I also  found  three  kinds  of 
incense  in  process  of  manufacture.  It  is  a very  simple 
process — merely  a mixture  of  finely  powdered  charcoal, 
aromatic  herbs,  and  rice-water  made  into  a paste,  then 
spread  on  the  floor  and  cut  into  strips,  rolled  between 
the  hands  and  formed  into  the  sticks  seen  burning  in 
the  temples.  The  different  qualities  depend  on  the  ingre- 
148 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

clients,  the  more  expensive  having  musk  added  as  well  as 
herbs. 

After  a day  of  pouring  rain  the  morning  opened  bril- 
liantly, and  for  the  first  time  I saw  the  snows  at  the  head 
of  the  Mo-chhu  Valley,  but  it  soon  clouded  over.  The 
ladies  who  had  entertained  me  at  Ta-lo  came  to  Poonakha 
and  paid  me  a visit.  After  listening  to  the  gramophone, 
with  which  they  were  much  pleased,  they  went  away, 
taking  with  them  some  silks  for  themselves  and  toys  for 
their  children.  With  them  came  the  head  of  Ta-lo, 
the  Tango  Lama,  a man  about  forty,  and  his  younger 
brother,  Nin-ser  Talku,  about  eleven  years  old.  In  the 
evening  the  lama  came  back  to  dine  with  us,  accompanied 
by  the  Thimbu  Jongpen,  but  I do  not  know  that  on  this 
occasion  the  dinner  itself  was  an  actual  success,  as  the 
lama  was  not  allowed  to  eat  fowl  or  mutton,  our  principal 
stand-bys,  and  the  Thimbu  excused  his  want  of  appetite 
by  saying  he  had  already  dined. 

I have  always  found  the  Bhutanese,  as  well  as  the 
Sikhim  people,  very  appreciative  of  English  food,  and  as 
they  are  Buddhists,  with  no  question  of  caste,  they  consider 
it  an  honour  to  be  asked  to  meals,  and  are  most  anxious  to 
return  any  hospitality  they  receive,  in  marked  contrast  to 
the  natives  of  India,  who  are  defiled  and  outcasted  by  such 
intercourse  with  strangers.  It  is  a great  factor  in  helping 
forward  friendly  relations,  and  although,  out  of  politeness, 
they  never  refuse  to  taste  wine,  nearly  all  the  officials  are 
extremely  abstemious.  At  Poonakha  the  others  jocularly 
remarked  that  the  Zung  Donyer,  being  so  much  older,  wa9 
a seasoned  vessel,  and  must  drink  for  the  rest  of  them,  and 
often  passed  the  half-emptied  glasses  on  to  him  to  finish, 
but  at  the  same  time  they  kept  a strict  watch  to  see  that 
the  strange  spirits  whose  strength  they  were  unaware  of 
should  not  overcome  him. 

After  dinner  I showed  the  Tango  Lama  a stereoscope, 
with  views  of  Europe,  and  he  so  enjoyed  it  that  I gave  it  to 
him  when  he  called  to  take  leave.  He  asked  me  if  I had  not 
149 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

brought  with  me  any  toy  animals,  mentioning  in  particular 
an  elephant,  as  he  wanted  them  to  place  before  a new 
shrine  they  were  making  at  Tango.  By  a great  piece  of 
luck  I had  a toy  elephant  that  waved  its  trunk  and  grunted, 
also  a donkey  that  gravely  wagged  its  head,  and  a goat  that 
on  pressure  emitted  some  weird  sounds.  He  was  greatly 
delighted  with  them,  and  bore  them  off  in  triumph,  but 
whether  to  assist  his  worship  or  amuse  his  children  I do 
not  know.  Next  day,  on  leaving,  he  asked  if  I had  not  a 
model  of  a cow,  but  that,  unfortunately,  was  not  forth- 
coming. It  was  an  excellent  idea,  bringing  models  of 
animals  and  simple  mechanical  toys  amongst  the  presents, 
and  they  are  most  popular  as  gifts,  a jumping  rabbit  being 
in  great  demand.  It  shows  the  simple  nature  of  the  people 
that  they  should  be  interested  so  easily. 

The  Tango  Lama,  in  wishing  me  good-bye,  made  him- 
self exceedingly  pleasant,  and  expressed  great  regret  that 
he  could  not  persuade  me  to  pay  him  a second  visit  and 
remain  for  the  night. 

One  lovely  morning  when  the  snows  were  quite  clear, 
I rode  up  the  hill  to  the  north-east,  and  had  a fine  view  up 
both  valleys.  About  two  and  a half  miles  up  the  Mo-chhu 
are  the  ruins  of  a small  fort.  It  is  called  So-na-ga-sa, 
which  I think  must  be  the  Zemri-gatchie  of  Turner,  and 
contained  formerly  the  great  printing  establishment  of 
Bhutan  and  a fine  garden-house  belonging  to  the  Deb. 
About  eighty  years  ago  it  was  totally  destroyed  by  fire  in 
one  of  the  internecine  wars,  and  has  never  been  rebuilt, 
while  the  greater  part  of  their  printing  is  now  carried  on 
at  Poonakha. 

Not  very  far  off  is  a sort  of  cave  or  arched  recess  in  the 
bank  formed  by  percolations  of  lime  binding  the  pebbles, 
and  nearly  three  hundred  years  ago  it  was  occupied  by  a 
hermit  from  India  known  as  Nagri-rinchen,  whose  principal 
claim  to  saintship  seems  to  have  been  his  power  of  sailing 
on  the  Mo-chhu  on  a skin.  He  probably  made  a coracle 
to  cross  the  river  in,  and  hence  the  legend  arose. 

150 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

The  time  was  now  drawing  near  for  us  to  move  camp, 
but  before  we  left  my  escort  performed  a Khattak  dance 
before  the  Bhutanese  officials  and  a large  crowd  of  on- 
lookers, who  again  were  absolutely  well  behaved.  We  also 
held  an  archery  meeting  for  the  soldiers  in  the  fort.  Their 
bows  are  made  of  bamboo  of  great  strength,  and  the  arrows 
of  reed  or  bamboo  with  iron  tips  have  four  feathers,  while 
those  for  game-shooting  at  close  quarters  have  only  two.  I 
believe  there  are  some  extremely  good  marksmen  in  Bhutan, 
but  the  shooting  on  this  occasion  was  distinctly  poor. 

The  day  before  our  departure  I went,  accompanied  by 
Mr.  Paul,  to  take  formal  leave  of  the  Deb  Raja.  We  were 
ushered  into  his  private  audience-hall,  where  we  found  him 
seated  on  piles  of  cushions.  He  showed  us  special  honour 
by  rising  to  receive  us  and  offering  us  wine.  Our  interview 
was  not  a prolonged  one,  but  the  Deb  desired  me  to  convey 
his  thanks  to  His  Excellency  the  Viceroy  for  having  sent 
me  on  this  occasion,  and  to  express  the  hope  that  he  would 
continue  to  favour  his  little  State,  whose  sincere  endeavour 
was  to  carry  out  the  wishes  of  the  British  Government. 
He  also  hoped  I would  visit  him  at  Tashi-cho-jong  on  my 
return  from  Tongsa. 

All  the  high  officials  and  leading  lamas  came  to  my  tent, 
bringing  letters  for  the  Viceroy  and  other  high  officials. 
The  Thimbu  Jongpen,  acting  as  spokesman,  made  a pretty 
little  speech,  saying  that  as  according  to  the  Bhutanese 
custom  a letter  was  always  wrapped  in  a scarf,  so  they  had 
selected  the  whitest  of  scarves,  without  a spot,  to  envelop 
their  letter  to  his  Excellency,  and  hoped  that  its  purity 
would  be  considered  an  emblem  of  their  own  perfect  purity 
of  mind  and  intention. 

Next  morning  we  started  for  Angdu-phodang,  the 
Wandipore  of  Turner,  our  first  stage  on  the  way  to  Tongsa. 
We  had  a charming  ride  along  a road  running  on  the  left 
bank  and  close  to  the  river,  with  a descent  so  gradual  it 
was  hardly  felt.  I found  our  camp  laid  out  on  a large  flat 
to  the  north-east  of  the  Jong,  but  as  the  sun  was  veiy 
151 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

powerful  I decided  to  have  our  own  tents  pitched  on  the 
fir-tree-covered  flat  near  an  outer  round  fort.  There  is  a 
curious  point  about  this  fortress  ; it  is  built  in  two  distinct 
parts,  connected  by  an  enclosed  and  loopholed  bridge  many 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  hill.  There  are  two  local  legends 
to  account  for  this,  one  that  the  forts  were  built  at  different 
times,  and  the  other  that  the  villagers  of  old  were  so  powerful 
that  they  refused  to  be  prevented  crossing  from  one  river  to 
the  other  by  the  closing  of  the  gates,  so  the  designers  of  the 
fort  were  obliged  to  leave  a passage.  The  most  probable 
story,  however,  is  that  the  southern  and  older  portion  was 
built  some  320  years  ago  by  the  second  Shabdung  Rimpochi, 
and  that  subsequently,  when  one  Ache-pipa,  a Jongpen, 
wished  to  enlarge  the  building,  the  villagers  insisted  that  he 
should  leave  a passage,  so  his  addition  is  an  entirely  separate 
fort.  It  is  strange  that  Turner  has  not  noticed  the  curious 
way  in  which  “ Wandipore  ” is  built. 

The  interior  of  the  fort  was  much  more  picturesque  than 
any  we  had  hitherto  seen,  except,  perhaps,  Dug-gye-jong. 
My  photographs  illustrate  the  appearance  of  the  J ong,  with 
its  picturesque  corners,  massive  gateways,  and  the  charm- 
ing effect  of  its  passage-way,  far  better  than  any  verbal 
description  I might  attempt.  Including  the  northern  build- 
ing, there  are,  as  usual,  three  courts,  but  only  one  main 
entrance,  and  the  damage  caused  by  the  great  earthquake 
was  still  visible,  though  repairs  were  slowly  progressing. 
The  office  of  Jongpen  was  vacant  at  the  time  of  our  visit, 
for  of  late  years  there  had  been  a heavy  mortality  amongst 
the  holders  of  the  office,  and  no  one  was  anxious  to  be 
appointed,  so  we  were  conducted  round  by  the  Tongsa 
Donyer,  formerly  Donyer  of  Angdu-phodang,  who  had 
restored  one  of  the  chapels  very  well. 

About  forty-five  years  ago  one  of  the  former  Jongpens, 
who  afteiwards  became  Deb  Sangye,  began  cutting  down 
the  hill  above  the  round  fort,  evidently  with  the  intention 
of  imitating  the  excellent  flat  in  front  of  the  main  entrance 
which  is  well  paved  and  contains  a large  choten,  a masonry 
152 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
tank,  and  seats,  but  as  his  ryots  objected  to  the  expense  he 
contented  himself  with  levelling  a large  space  and  planting 
the  rows  of  fir-trees  where  our  tents  were  pitched,  and  it 
certainly  was  a most  charming  spot.  I went  down  to  the 
bridge  so  well  described  and  illustrated  in  Turner’s  narra- 
tive. It  is  wonderful  how  the  mountain  rivers  of  Bhutan, 
in  direct  contrast  to  those  of  neighbouring  Sikhim,  seem  to 
keep  in  one  channel.  No  alteration  of  the  streams  seems 
to  have  taken  place  since  Turner’s  visit  a hundred  and 
twenty  years  ago,  yet  there  are  no  sufficiently  solid  rocks 
nor  guiding  works  to  retain  it.  In  Sikhim  I could  never 
foresee  the  vagaries  of  the  different  rivers,  which  would 
often  suddenly  leave  the  main  channel  in  times  of  flood, 
and  later,  on  subsidence,  take  an  entirely  new  course.  I 
tried  to  get  a little  historical  information  from  the  lamas 
who  came  to  see  me  here,  and  who  appeared  to  be  a little 
more  intelligent  than  those  I had  hitherto  met,  but  it  was 
no  use.  I could  not  even  get  a list  of  the  Shabdung  Rim- 
pochis  or  Deb  Rajas  for  the  last  forty  years. 

On  leaving  Angdu-phodang  on  a lovely  morning  we 
followed  a bridle-path  very  slightly  ascending  up  the 
right  bank  of  the  Tang-chhu  for  about  six  miles.  On  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river  the  house  belonging  to  the 
ex-Poonakha  Jongpen  was  pointed  out  to  me.  He  fled  to 
Kalimpong,  and  afterwards  died  at  Buxa.  High  up  above 
the  road  was  Chongdu  Gompa,  the  summer  residence  of  the 
Poonakha  Jongpen,  on  a beautiful  cultivated  site.  At 
Chapakha  we  crossed  the  Ba-chhu  (5000  feet)  by  a good 
bridge,  and  a stiff  climb  of  three  miles  brought  us  to  Sam- 
tengang,  where  our  camp  was  pitched  in  the  midst  of  pines, 
just  above  a wide  grassy  maidan,  with  a small  lake  to  add 
to  its  picturesqueness.  The  early  part  of  the  day  had  been 
hot  and  not  very  pretty,  but  after  passing  Chapakha  the 
new  ridge  gave  us  a succession  of  level  grassy  plains. 

It  was  while  on  the  next  day’s  march  that  I had  the 
misfortune  to  lose  my  little  Tibetan  spaniel  Nari,  who  had 
been  my  companion  on  many  wanderings  in  Sikhim,  in 
i53 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Khambajong,  and  in  Lhasa.  Just  as  we  were  commencing 
lunch  by  the  Tang-chhu,  which  we  had  crossed  by  the 
Ratsowok  bridge,  the  little  chap  gave  a sigh,  fell  on  his  side, 
and  expired,  I suppose  from  heart  disease,  as  not  five 
minutes  before  he  had  been  chasing  a pariah  dog.  These 
Tibetan  spaniels  are  delightful  little  dogs,  and  great  pets  of 
my  wife’s.  The  first  one,  Thibet,  came  into  her  possession 
at  the  end  of  the  Sikhim  Expedition,  a puppy,  which  one 
of  the  telegraph  signallers  had  bought  from  a Tibetan 
mule-driver,  and  ever  since  we  have  never  been  without 
some  of  them,  though  Tibbie,  alas ! died  many  years  ago  ; 
but  his  descendants  have  come  to  England,  and  I hope 
may  have  many  years  before  them.  They  are  dainty 
little  creatures,  with  beautiful  silky  coats  of  black  fluffy 
hair,  and  feathery  tails  curled  on  their  backs,  yet  full  of 
pluck,  game  enough  to  kill  rats,  and  the  three  who  ac- 
companied me  to  Lhasa,  little  Nari  among  the  number, 
used  to  run  daily  for  miles  over  the  great  Tibetan  plain, 
hunting  for  marmots,  hares,  anything  that  came  in  their 
way. 

It  was  a long  day’s  march  that  day — quite  fourteen 
miles — though  the  road  was  excellent  and  very  interesting, 
as  the  scenery  was  constantly  changing.  Between  Ba- 
chhu  and  Tang-chhu  we  seemed  to  be  on  an  island  hill 
standing  alone,  quite  apart  from  the  others.  For  some  miles 
we  gradually  ascended  to  Tsha-za-la  (9300  feet),  and  then 
equally  gradually  descended  to  a curious  ravine,  where, 
although  invisible  from  higher  up,  our  ridge  was  really 
joined  on  to  the  main  ridge  separating  the  two  rivers.  Our 
descent  took  us  down  to  the  Tang-chhu  (6700  feet),  and, 
crossing  the  Ratsowok  bridge,  a very  pretty  and  good  path 
took  us  up  to  Ridha,  a fine  open  space  with  plenty  of  flat 
ground,  the  village  situated  on  a knoll  above  us.  There 
were  fine  views  of  a snowy  range,  whence  the  Tang-chhu 
took  its  rise  many  miles  up  a rich  valley.  It  was  one  of 
our  most  beautiful  marches,  the  rhododendrons  in  full 
bloom,  and  the  oak,  chestnuts,  and  walnuts  in  their  new 
i54 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

foliage  giving  the  most  vivid  and  delicate  colouring  to 
the  scene.  In  every  direction  we  could  see  evidences  of 
better  cultivation  and  more  prosperity  than  in  any  valley 
we  had  hitherto  traversed.  Unfortunately  the  inhabitants 
are  reputed  to  be  very  quarrelsome,  and  constant  litiga- 
tion, which  means  heavy  bribes  to  the  officials  called  in  to 
decide  their  cases,  has  tended  to  keep  the  villagers  more 
impoverished  than  they  ought  to  be. 

All  night  there  was  a continuous  thunderstorm  to  the 
west,  and  we  suffered  from  a heavy  rainfall,  but  apart 
from  this  our  camp  was  very  comfortable,  as  sites  had  been 
levelled  for  our  tents  and  fine  mats  put  down,  sheds  erected 
for  our  followers,  and — the  greatest  comfort  of  all — cows  had 
been  brought  to  camp,  so  we  had  fresh  and  clean  milk. 

The  rain  in  the  night  had  quite  spoilt  the  surface  of  the 
road  for  the  next  day’s  march,  and  what  would  otherwise 
have  been  a pleasant,  easy,  and  pretty  ride  through  fine 
forests  became  a hard  struggle  for  man  and  beast  to  keep 
their  footing  on  the  clayey  soil.  It  took  me  one  hour  and 
forty  minutes  to  get  to  the  top  of  the  Pele-la  (11,100  feet). 
Then  it  began  to  rain,  and  a heavy  fog  coming  on  as  well, 
we  saw  little  and  fared  badly.  It  was  very  unlucky,  as  the 
country  was  a succession  of  wide,  open  glades,  affording 
most  excellent  grazing  stations.  The  road,  too,  under 
ordinary  circumstances  would  have  been  good,  and  as  it 
was  showed  signs  of  having  been  well  aligned  ; portions 
had  been  paved,  and  other  soft  places  corduroyed  with  flat 
timber.  Another  hour  and  a half  saw  us  at  our  camp  on  a 
flat  just  below  the  village  of  Rokubi  (9400  feet),  about  forty 
feet  above  the  Siche-chhu,  where  again  excellent  huts  had 
been  built,  a great  comfort  in  the  rain  and  raw  cold. 

Next  day’s  march  lay  through  beautiful  country,  but 
was  marred  by  rain  and  mist,  and  we  reached  camp  wearied 
out  by  an  eighteen  miles’  march  under  such  disagreeable 
conditions.  A very  good  road  led  us  gradually  down  from 
Rokubi  through  very  pretty  scenery  to  Chandenbi,  passing 
on  the  way  a side  valley  through  which  was  a direct  but 
I55 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

bad  path  to  Tongsa.  At  Chandenbi  we  had  to  halt  to 
witness  a dance  on  which  the  villagers  pride  themselves. 
In  step  it  was  very  similar  to  the  lama  dances,  though  the 
dresses  were  not  quite  so  gorgeous,  but  it  was  not  very 
interesting. 

Some  distance  further  on  we  came  to  a romantic  patch 
of  sward  in  a gorge  of  the  ravine  where  the  stream  was 
joined  by  another  mountain  torrent,  and  on  the  tongue  of 
land  thus  formed,  covered  with  beautiful  cedar  pines,  was 
a fine  choten,  built  in  imitation  of  the  Swayambunath  in 
Nepal.  For  miles  we  continued  to  traverse  undulating 
ground  about  the  same  altitude,  through  oak,  magnolia, 
and  rhododendrons,  until  we  emerged  on  more  open  country. 
Passing  Tashiling,  where  there  is  a large  rest-house,  we 
continued  for  three  more  weary  miles  to  Tshang-kha 
(7500  feet),  where  we  found  our  camp  pitched  on  a fine 
open  grassy  spot,  with  several  hundreds  of  fine  cattle  grazing 
close  by.  The  village  was  a long  way  above  us,  and  out  of 
sight. 

This  was  our  last  halting-place  before  arriving  at  Tongsa, 
and  unluckily  it  rained  all  night,  but  by  morning  it  was  only 
misty.  Our  road  took  us  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Madu- 
chhu,  at  a considerable  height  above  its  raging  torrent, 
and  shortly  we  found  ourselves  in  very  rocky  country,  as 
the  gorge  through  which  the  stream  flows  narrows  con- 
siderably, with  tremendous  precipices  overhanging  each 
side.  We  made  slow  progress  down  a road,  or  rather  a 
series  of  steep  zigzags  mostly  composed  of  stone  steps, 
and  this  path  continued  to  within  a short  distance  of  the 
bridge  across  the  Madu-chhu,  some  900  feet  below  the 
castle  and  fortress  of  Tongsa.  The  bridge  was  of  the 
usual  cantilever  kind,  flanked  by  defensive  towers,  the 
whole  having  been  rebuilt  within  the  last  few  years. 

A second  steep  zigzag,  with  many  flights  of  stone  steps, 
led  us  under  the  walls  of  the  castle,  and  we  entered  through 
a door  in  an  outlying  bastion  overhanging  the  cliff  up  which 
we  had  been  toiling,  and  which  effectually  barred  further 
156 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
progress.  Passing  through  the  outer  gateway  of  the 
castle,  we  emerged  on  a large  stone-flagged  courtyard, 
across  which  I rode  to  a gateway  on  the  east  side,  and, 
going  through  this,  found  myself  outside  again  on  a 
narrow  path  which  ran  under  the  walls  of  the  castle  and 
brought  us  to  the  back  of  the  ridge,  on  which  was  built  a 
fine  square  choten.  From  thence  a new  road  about  one- 
third  of  a mile  in  length  had  been  made  along  the  hillside 
to  our  camp,  which  was  pitched  on  an  exceedingly  pretty 
knoll,  with  fine  trees,  an  excellent  water  supply,  and  a pretty 
round  tank.  This,  we  learnt,  was  the  pleasaunce  of  the 
castle  monks. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  ridge  immediately  below  the 
castle  we  were  met  by  a large  party  of  retainers,  leading 
gaily  caparisoned  ponies  and  mules  for  us.  They  were 
hardly  necessary  as  we  were  already  so  well  provided  for, 
the  Tongsa  having  placed  most  excellent  mules  at  our 
service  since  leaving  Poonakha,  carefully  selecting  those  we 
had  tried  and  liked  best ; but  to  send  additional  mounts 
was  another  proof  of  his  hospitality.  Amid  a salute  of 
guns,  which  reverberated  grandly  through  the  rocky  gorge, 
we  emerged  from  the  bridge,  where  a procession  of  gaily 
dressed  minstrel  singers  and  dancers  met  us,  and  conducted 
us  up  the  hilly  zigzag  singing  verses  of  praise  and  welcome 
in  a curious  but  not  unpleasant  monotone.  There  were 
seven  women  singers,  peculiar  to  Bhutan,  four  clarion 
players,  two  drummers,  and  two  gong-strikers  in  addition 
to  the  dancers.  We  were  thus  ceremoniously  ushered  into 
our  camp,  where  Sir  Ugyen  met  us  with  a very  hearty 
welcome,  and  gave  us  tea  and  milk,  carefully  seeing  him- 
self that  we  had  all  we  required.  He  had  with  kind 
forethought  sent  four  picked  men  to  carry  Paul,  who 
suffered  from  an  injured  back,  over  the  steepest  parts  of 
the  journey.  All  Bhutanese  officials  are  carried  when  the 
road  is  too  steep  and  bad  to  ride  a mule,  but  that  is  not 
often,  as  the  mules  will  go  almost  anywhere.  The  orderly 
who  carries  the  officer,  seated  pickaback  in  a strong  cloth 
i57 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

firmly  knotted  on  the  man’s  forehead,  is  always  a specially 
picked  and  wonderfully  strong  man.  I tried  this  mode  of 
progression  once,  but  it  failed  to  commend  itself  to  me, 
and  I think  Paul  was  wise  in  refusing  it  on  this  occasion. 
The  men  were,  however,  most  useful  in  lending  a helping 
hand  over  the  worst  places.  I felt  obliged,  much  against 
my  inclination,  to  ride  up  the  ladder-like  steps  on  our  way 
to  the  castle,  and  they  held  me  on,  one  on  either  side,  so 
that  I could  not  possibly  fall  off.  I found  Captain  Pem- 
berton’s description,  written  so  many  years  before,  exactly 
described  the  situation.  “ The  rider,  if  a man  of  any 
rank,  is  supported  by  two  runners,  one  on  each  side,  who 
press  firmly  against  his  back  while  the  pony  is  struggling 
against  the  difficulties  of  the  ascent,  and  give  thus  such 
efficient  support  that  no  muscular  exertion  is  necessary  to 
retain  his  seat  in  the  most  trying  ascents.” 

The  castle  is  so  irregularly  built  that  it  is  somewhat  diffi- 
cult to  describe.  The  building  on  the  extreme  south  was 
erected  in  great  haste  by  the  first  Shabdung  Rimpochi  to 
check  an  inroad  from  the  east  of  Bhutan,  and  is  a small, 
low  range  forming  the  sides  of  the  present  courtyard,  and 
commanding  beautiful  views.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
court  is  a fine  five-storied  building,  in  which  the  Penlop 
resides  when  here.  It  was  originally  erected  by  Mi-gyur 
Namgyal,  the  first  Deb,  but  it  suffered  badly  in  the  earth- 
quake of  1897,  and  the  two  upper  stories  have  been  rebuilt 
and  decorated  by  the  present  Penlop.  Immediately  behind 
this  building  is  the  main  tower,  surmounted  by  a gilded 
canopy,  while  attached  to  the  west  wall  is  a covered  way 
leading  to  a second  courtyard.  A flight  of  steps  leading 
out  of  the  first  court  to  the  north  brought  me  to  a large 
rectangular  yard,  at  the  south  end  of  which  was  a very 
pretty,  though  rather  small,  office  for  the  Donyer,  or  steward, 
on  the  east  another  building  of  five  stories,  each  with  a fine 
verandah,  while  on  the  first  story  were  the  very  fine  temples, 
lately  repainted  at  Sir  Ugyen’s  expense.  There  is  a similar 
building  on  the  west.  On  the  north  is  the  wall  supporting 
158 


TONGSA-JONG 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
the  last  courtyard,  where  there  is  a lofty  chapel,  in  which 
Sir  Ugyen  was  erecting  a gigantic  sitting  image  of  the 
Coming  Buddha,  made  of  stucco,  and  at  least  twenty  feet 
high,  but  not  then  painted.  A passage  to  the  east  from  the 
third  courtyard  led  to  the  north  of  a battlemented  terrace 
built  up  from  the  ravine  below,  and  a gateway  on  the 
north-west  opened  out  on  the  ridge  and  the  choten  that  we 
had  reached  by  the  lower  road  on  the  day  of  our  arrival. 

Below  the  eastern  wall  in  the  ravine  is  the  building 
containing  the  prayer-wheels  worked  by  water  from  which 
the  palace  took  its  original  name  of  Chu-knor-rab-tsi.  In 
it  are  two  sets  of  wheels,  each  axle  containing  three  manis, 
or  cylinders,  containing  prayers,  one  above  the  other,  the 
smallest  at  the  top.  They  had  evidently  not  been  used 
for  some  time,  so  the  next  day,  having  nothing  better  to 
do,  we  assisted  in  putting  them  in  order,  by  clearing  out 
the  waterways,  which  had  been  blocked  with  stones  and 
rubbish,  and  hope  it  may  be  placed  to  our  credit  as  a 
work  of  merit. 

Later  I received  visits  from  the  Tongsa  Zimpon,  who  is  a 
son  of  Sir  Ugyen’s  sister  and  the  Bya-gha  Jongpen,  and  is 
married  to  Sir  Ugyen’s  daughter,  and  also  from  the  castle 
monks,  who  struck  me  as  a much  better  class  of  men  than 
usual,  pleasant  in  their  manners,  clean,  and  educated. 

Early  one  morning  the  sound  of  a very  sweet-toned 
gong  warned  us  that  the  spring  ceremony  of  blessing  the 
rice-fields  was  about  to  begin.  A long,  picturesque  pro- 
cession of  men  and  women,  led  by  the  Donyer,  came  winding 
down  the  hillside  until  the  first  rice-field,  into  which  water 
had  been  running  all  the  day  before,  was  reached.  The 
field  below  was  still  dry,  and,  turning  in  there,  they  all  sat 
down  and  had  some  light  refreshment.  Suddenly  the  men 
sprang  up,  throwing  off  their  outer  garments  ; this  was  the 
signal  for  the  women  to  rush  to  the  inundated  field  and  to 
commence  throwing  clods  of  earth  and  splashes  of  muddy 
water  on  the  men  below  as  they  tried  to  climb  up.  Then 
followed  a wild  and  mad,  though  always  good-humoured, 
T59 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

struggle  between  the  men  and  women  in  the  water,  the  men 
doing  their  utmost  to  take  possession  of  the  watery  field, 
the  women  equally  determined  to  keep  them  out.  The 
Donyer,  the  leader  of  the  men,  suffered  severely,  though 
the  courtesies  of  war  were  strictly  observed,  and  if  one  of 
the  assailants  fell  his  opponents  helped  him  up  and  gave 
him  a breathing-space  to  recover  before  a fresh  onset  was 
made.  But  gradually  the  women  drove  the  men  slowly 
down  the  whole  length  of  the  field,  the  last  stand  being  made 
by  a very  stout  and  powerful  official,  who,  clinging  to  an 
overhanging  rock,  with  his  back  to  his  foes,  used  his  feet  to 
scoop  up  such  quantities  of  water  and  mud  that  no  one  was 
able  to  come  near  him.  However,  all  the  other  men  having 
been  driven  off,  he  and  the  Donyer  were  allowed  at  last  to 
crawl  up  on  the  path,  and  the  combat  for  that  year  was 
over.  This  was  looked  on  as  a very  propitious  ending,  as 
the  women’s  victory  portends  during  the  coming  season 
fertility  of  the  soil  and  increase  amongst  the  flocks,  so  they 
dispersed  to  their  various  homes  rejoicing.  After  witness- 
ing the  curious  ceremony  we  went  to  the  castle,  and  were 
received  by  Sir  Ugyen,  who  took  us  into  the  courtyard  and 
showed  us  over  the  chapels,  which  he  has  lately  renovated 
lavishly,  but  at  the  same  time  in  very  good  taste. 

From  the  verandah  we  witnessed  two  lama  dances,  the 
Chogyal-Yab-Yum  and  the  Shanak,  but  these  have  been  so 
often  described  by  travellers  who  have  penetrated  to  Leh 
or  have  seen  them  elsewhere  that  I need  only  say  that  the 
dresses  worn  were  a gift  lately  presented  by  Sir  Ugyen  to 
the  lamas  and  were  most  gorgeous,  and  the  dance  was 
excellently  performed.  Unfortunately,  before  the  second 
dance  was  over  the  rain  came  down  in  torrents,  and  I had 
the  performance  stopped  to  save  the  dresses  from  being 
ruined. 


160 


CHAPTER  XV 

MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN — continued 


From  Tongsa-jong  to  Bya-gha,  Lingzi,  and  Phari.  Hospitality  of 
the  Tongsa  and  Tongsa’s  sister  at  Bya-gha.  Old  monasteries  near 
Bya-gha.  Ancient  traditions.  Carvers  and  carpenters  at  the 
Champa  Lhakhang  Monastery.  Regret  at  leaving  Bya-gha.  Lama 
dances.  Farewell  to  Sir  Ugyen.  Reception  at  Tashi-cho-jong. 

Last  interview  with  the  Deb  Raja.  Ta-tshang  lamas.  Cheri 
Monastery.  Magnificent  scenery.  Incorrect  maps.  Exposure 
of  the  dead  to  lammergeiers.  View  of  Tibet  from  the  Ling-shi 
Pass.  Break-up  of  the  Mission. 

It  was  now  time  to  move  on  again,  and,  accompanied  by 
the  Tongsa,  we  left  next  morning,  ascending  by  a very 
steep  path  to  the  main  road  running  above  the  upper  fort. 
Thence  our  progress  was  comparatively  easy  to  the  top  of 
the  Yo-to-la  (11,500  feet),  and  an  equally  easy  road  brought 
us  to  our  camp  at  Gya-tsa  (8740  feet),  a distance  of  twelve 
miles.  It  was  a very  pretty  march.  The  country  had 
again  changed,  and  we  emerged  from  the  confinement  of 
narrow  gorges  into  a series  of  broad  valleys,  the  upper  ones 
providing  grazing  for  hundreds  of  yaks,  the  lower  ones 
rich  with  barley,  buckwheat,  and  mustard  fields.  Dotted 
about  we  noticed  for  the  first  time  the  temporary  huts 
erected  to  shelter  the  cultivators  during  their  stay  in  high 
elevations  at  the  times  of  ploughing,  sowing,  and  reaping  ; 
while  lower  down  their  substantial  dwellings  showed  we 
were  entering  a better  governed  and  more  prosperous 
district  than  those  we  had  left  behind.  In  the  village  of 
Gya-tsa  itself  there  was  a fine  substantial  rest-house  for 
161  L 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

travellers,  but  more  especially  for  the  Tongsa  monks,  who 
journey  to  Bya-gha  for  two  months  every  year.  On  a low 
spur,  to  the  north-west,  a prettily  built  house  surrounded 
by  trees  was  pointed  out  to  me  as  the  home  of  a powerful 
family  who  had  plotted  to  murder  the  Tongsa.  The  plot 
was  discovered  in  time,  but  Sir  Ugyen,  although  he  had 
narrowly  escaped  the  fate  of  his  uncle,  was  merciful,  and 
merely  banished  the  ringleaders  to  a more  distant  valley. 
Nemesis  overtook  them,  however,  as  their  leaders  com- 
menced a drunken  quarrel  with  their  neighbours  and  were 
killed,  and  their  adherents  dispersed.  Dr.  Griffiths  says : 
“ Fasia  [as  he  calls  Gya-tsa]  is  a good-sized  village,  com- 
paratively clean,  and  the  houses  better  than  most  I have 
seen.”  He  adds : “We  were  lodged  in  a sort  of  castle, 
consisting  of  a large  building  with  a spacious  flagged 
courtyard  surrounded  by  rows  of  offices  ; the  part  we 
occupied  fronted  the  entrance,  and  its  superior  pretensions 
were  attested  by  its  having  an  upper  story.” 

My  camp  was  prettily  arranged  on  a maidan  half  a 
mile  beyond  the  village  of  Fasia,  or  Gya-tsa,  and  there  I 
was  met  by  the  Bya-gha  Jongpen,  who  was  married  to  the 
Penlop’s  sister. 

It  was  difficult  to  select  a mount  next  morning,  owing 
to  the  large  number  of  waiting  mules,  as  not  only  were  the 
Tongsa’ s animals  there,  but  his  sister  and  her  son  the 
Zimpon,  whom  I had  seen  at  Tongsa,  had  also  sent  mules. 
Having  made  our  selection,  an  easy  and  good  road  took  us 
over  a saddle  on  the  Ki-ki-la  (11,700  feet),  and  an  equally 
easy  descent  brought  us  to  an  opening  in  the  pine-forest, 
from  whence  we  looked  down  on  the  broad  vale  of  Bya-gha, 
through  which  the  river  Chamka-chhu  flowed  tranquilly. 
On  the  right  bank  was  a large  house  and  chapel,  surrounded 
by  trees  just  bursting  into  leaf,  the  home  of  Sir  Ugyen’s 
sister,  and  close  by  the  site  of  the  old  house  in  which  he 
was  born.  On  a bluff  on  the  central  ridge,  some  500  feet 
up,  was  the  castle,  entirely  rebuilt,  though  on  a smaller 
scale,  after  the  total  destruction  of  the  old  one  in  1897 ; 

162 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

while,  to  crown  all,  where  the  ridge  widened  out  into  broad 
glades  edged  with  pine-forest,  was  the  equally  new  summer 
house  of  our  host.  He  had  terraced  and  turfed  the  slope 
above  the  castle,  and  nothing  could  have  been  more  pic- 
turesque than  our  camping-ground.  The  view  everywhere, 
both  up  and  down  the  valley,  was  lovely.  Dr.  Griffiths 
writes  : “ The  country  was  very  beautiful,  particularly  in 
the  higher  elevations”;  and  at  this  season,  to  add  to  the 
beauty,  primulas,  in  flower  in  myriads,  clothed  whole 
glades  in  delicate  violet,  while  above  rhododendrons  flamed 
in  gorgeous  scarlet.  He  adds  : “ We  saw  scarcely  any 
villages,  and  but  very  little  cultivation.”  In  direct  con- 
tradiction to  this,  I noticed  that  whole  hillsides  were  being 
cultivated  up  to  at  least  11,000  feet,  and  I was  so  struck 
by  the  difference  that  I made  inquiries,  and  found  that  as 
recently  as  thirty  years  ago,  when  Sir  Ugyen  left  the 
valley,  a boy  of  twelve,  there  was  nothing  but  jungle  either 
here  or  on  the  slopes  opposite.  The  land  had  only  been 
brought  into  cultivation  since  the  internecine  quarrels  had 
ceased  some  eighteen  years  ago.  So  much  for  stability  of 
government ; but  even  now  poverty  reigns,  and  the  valley 
is  only  prosperous  in  comparison  with  more  unlucky 
ones. 

A short  ride  brought  us  into  camp,  where  Sir  Ugyen 
awaited  us.  As  soon  as  we  had  settled  down  Sir  Ugyen’s 
sister,  his  two  daughters,  and  a daughter  of  the  Thimbu 
Jongpen  came  to  add  their  welcome.  The  younger  ones 
were  rather  pretty,  unaffected  and  merry  girls,  while  the 
sister,  although  a grandmother,  was  full  of  good-nature 
and  showed  traces  of  good  looks.  They  all  wore  the  pretty 
and  distinctive  dress,  which  consists  of  a long  piece  of 
Bhutanese  cloth,  woven  in  coloured  stripes,  draped  round 
the  figure,  and  fastened  on  the  shoulders  and  confined  at 
the  waist  by  a band  of  brighter  Bhutanese  cloth.  They 
also  wore  many  necklaces  of  large  rough  beads  of  coral, 
turquoise,  and  amber,  and  occasionally  gold  filigree  beads 
and  many  bangles  of  gold  and  silver.  Their  hair  was  left 
163 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

unornamented,  and  either  cut  short  or  worn  in  two  long 
plaits.  The  elder  daughter  brought  her  little  son,  to  whom 
I gave  a bottle  of  sweets,  which  pleased  him  just  as  much  as 
it  would  a little  Western  boy,  and  his  mother  told  me  later 
that  he  ever  after  loved  me  for  my  gift. 

This  visit  to  Bya-gha,  which  lasted  about  ten  or  twelve 
days,  was  the  most  delightful  part  of  our  expedition,  as 
we  were  received  as  honoured  guests  by  Sir  Ugyen  in  his 
private  capacity ; and,  interesting  and  impressive  as  the 
ceremonial  had  been  at  Poonakha,  these  few  days  at 
Bya-gha  gave  us  a much  deeper  insight  into  the  life  and 
customs  of  the  Bhutanese,  as  our  intercourse  with  our  host 
was  quite  free  and  untrammelled.  Very  soon  after  our 
arrival  Sir  Ugyen  took  me  all  over  his  house.  In  the 
centre  of  an  oblong  courtyard  rose  a lofty  square  tower  of 
many  stories,  the  two  highest,  of  ornamental  timberwork, 
slightly  projecting  over  the  main  walls,  beautifully  painted  in 
different  colours.  On  the  south-east  and  north  sides  of  the 
courtyard  were  two-storied  buildings  of  the  usual  type. 
In  the  south-east  corner  were  the  Tongsa’s  quarters,  which 
did  not  differ  in  any  material  respect  from  the  reception 
rooms  we  had  seen  elsewhere  ; on  the  north-east  were  his 
eldest  daughter’s  apartments ; while  between  them,  on  the 
east  front,  occupying  the  whole  width  of  the  building,  was 
a long,  well-ventilated  factory,  where  many  girls  were 
busy  weaving  silk  and  cotton  fabrics,  chiefly  the  former. 
The  silk  was  in  the  main  tussar,  obtained  from  Assam 
and  the  northern  hills.  It  was  altogether  a very  charming 
and  homelike  dwelling,  and  evidently  managed  by  an 
excellent  and  capable  housewife  in  his  eldest  daughter, 
who  lives  with  him  and  superintends  his  household. 

On  one  occasion  we  breakfasted  with  him,  and  were 
offered  several  small  dishes  cooked  in  Chinese  fashion  in 
small  cups,  with  the  accompaniment  of  boiled  rice,  while  in 
the  centre  of  the  table  was  a large  dish  of  various  kinds 
of  meat.  After  breakfast  I had  to  go  and  witness  an 
archery  contest.  The  distance  between  the  butts  was  at 
164 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

least  150  yards,  and  the  shooting  was  much  better 
than  what  we  saw  at  Poonakha  and  what  Dr.  Griffiths 
writes  of.  There  were  two  teams,  captained  respectively 
by  Ugyen  Kazi  and  the  Tongsa  Donyer,  and  the  former 
won. 

Sir  Ugyen  took  a good  deal  of  trouble  to  find  some 
books  for  me,  from  which  I have  gathered  a fuller  account 
of  early  Bhutanese  history  than  we  have  had  hitherto. 
His  own  story  is  a somewhat  pathetic  one.  As  a young 
man  he  married  an  exceedingly  lovely  girl,  to  whom  he 
was  devotedly  attached,  but  after  the  birth  of  their  second 
daughter  she  died  very  suddenly  from  some  unknown 
cause.  The  shock  was  a terrible  one  to  Sir  Ugyen.  He 
became  seriously  ill,  and  on  his  recovery  withdrew  from 
all  gaiety,  and  found  solace  in  reading  and  studying  the 
history  and  legends  of  his  country.  As  some  of  his  followers 
described  him,  he  was  more  than  a lama.  Sir  Ugyen  is  the 
only  Bhutanese  I have  come  across  who  takes  a real  and 
intelligent  interest  in  general  subjects,  both  foreign  and 
domestic,  and  he  neither  drinks  nor  indulges  in  other  vices. 
He  made  a large  collection  of  books,  but  unfortunately 
many  of  them  were  destroyed  when  the  Dechen-phodang, 
near  Tashi-cho-jong,  was  burnt  down,  while  the  earthquake 
of  1897,  which  destroyed  all  the  principal  buildings  in 
Bhutan,  ruined  other  archives.  Paro  alone  escaped  serious 
injury,  but  a few  years  later  was  burnt  to  the  ground,  and 
unfortunately  the  Penlop,  who  was  a low-minded  and 
ignorant  man,  could  give  no  account  of  what  it  had  con- 
tained that  was  of  any  value.  I held  many  long  private 
conversations  with  the  Tongsa,  and  was  deeply  impressed 
by  his  sense  of  responsibility  and  genuine  desire  to 
improve  the  condition  of  his  country  and  countrymen.  I 
gave  him  what  advice  I could,  and  made  an  attempt  to 
lay  the  foundation  of  a close  friendship  between  him  and 
the  British  Government,  and  only  wish  it  had  been  possible 
to  remain  in  my  appointment  long  enough  to  see  the  results 
of  my  endeavours,  but  the  time  for  my  retirement  came 
165 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

before  any  of  the  schemes  we  discussed  had  been  even 
commenced. 

It  is  much  to  be  deplored  that  the  proposals  with 
respect  to  Bhutan  made  to  the  Government  of  India  by  Mr. 
Paul  on  the  conclusion  of  the  Sikhim  Expedition  in  1890 
were  not  approved  of.  His  suggestion  that  I should  hold 
the  appointment  of  Political  Officer  to  Bhutan  as  well  as 
Sikhim  was  a sound  one,  and  had  these  schemes  of  improve- 
ment been  discussed  then,  by  this  time  they  would  have 
been  in  working  order,  to  the  great  advantage  of  Bhutan. 
The  loss  during  the  last  twenty  years  from  the  wholesale 
cutting  of  their  forests  along  their  boundary  in  the  Duars 
alone  amounts  to  many  lacs. 

The  Tongsa’s  sister  was  very  anxious  to  entertain  us  in 
her  own  house,  so  we  moved  some  of  our  camp  near  her 
dwelling  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  where  a pretty  flat 
dotted  with  willows  had  been  enclosed  for  us.  To  orna- 
ment our  camping-ground,  they  had  temporarily  planted  it 
with  evergreen  trees  hung  with  various  blossoms — one  of 
the  little  things  which  showed  how  anxious  they  were  to 
do  all  in  their  power  to  welcome  us.  Sir  Ugyen,  his  sister, 
and  two  of  her  daughters — the  third  being  away  in  a 
neighbouring  monastery — welcomed  us  most  cordially. 

In  the  evening  we  inspected  a new  Jong  in  the  process 
of  being  rebuilt  to  take  the  place  of  one  which  was  entirely 
destroyed  in  the  earthquake.  The  new  one  is  of  the  usual 
type,  but  much  smaller,  and  Sir  Ugyen  explained  he  had 
carefully  rebuilt  the  foundations  for  the  main  tower,  which 
consequently  showed  no  cracks  or  signs  of  settlement, 
unlike  that  of  Tashi-cho-jong,  which  had  been  carelessly 
rebuilt  on  the  old  foundations,  with  disastrous  results. 
We  also  rode  up  the  valley  to  inspect  the  very  old  Champa 
Lhakhang  Monastery,  which  is  being  partly  rebuilt  by  the 
Bya-gha  Jongpen.  It  is  a small  monastery,  and  only 
interesting  on  account  of  its  age. 

Further  up  the  valley,  under  a rocky  bluff,  we  came  to 
a double  gompa.  The  larger  one  was  built  by  Sir  Ugyen 
166 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 


some  years  ago,  and  contains  a very  large  image  of  Guru 
Rimpochi,  and  is  called  Guru  Lhakhang.  Close  alongside 
is  the  smaller  one,  called  Kuj  e Lhakhang,  built  on  the  rock 
itself,  which  forms  the  back  wall.  On  the  rock  inside  the 
temple  is  the  impression  of  Guru  Rimpochi’ s back  as  he 
sat  leaning  against  it,  and  also  of  his  “ bumpu,”  or  holy 
water  bottle,  which  he  happened  to  be  holding  up.  Out- 
side on  the  rock  is  a very  fine  Tsenden,  or  weeping  cypress, 
which  the  legend  relates  was  the  Guru’s  staff,  which  he  had 
stuck  in  the  earth,  when  it  immediately  took  root  and 
grows  to  this  day. 

On  the  way  back  we  were  shown  the  site  of  the  Sindhu 
Raja’s  house,  now  in  ruins,  situated  on  the  edge  of  a high 
bluff  overhanging  the  river.  It  appears  to  have  been  a 
square  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet,  and  the  wall  apartments 
could  not  have  been  very  wide,  as  there  seems  to  have 
been  an  open  space  in  the  centre,  unless  this  again  was 
covered  in  by  a floor  above,  in  which  case  the  building 
would  have  been  an  exact  counterpart  of  the  central  towers 
we  now  find  in  every  Jong.  Surrounding  the  sides,  on 
the  level,  was  a well-defined  ditch,  with  a continuation  on 
the  outer  side  leading  to  the  river,  and  also  a well-defined 
path.  Tradition  states  there  was  also  a gate  at  the  opposite 
comer  to  the  south.  The  Penlop  has  lent  me  a book  of  old 
stories  in  which  there  is  a glowing  description  of  the  old 
house.  On  a low  hill  across  the  plain  the  spot  was  pointed 
out  where  the  Raja’s  son  was  killed  fighting  against  the 
Naguchi  Raja,  who  lived  in  the  Duars,  below  Wandipore, 
and  also  seems  to  have  reigned  in  or  near  the  plains.  The 
Guru  Rimpochi  had  heard  of  the  constant  wars  between 
the  two  chiefs,  and  had  come  expressly  to  bring  about 
peace.  On  his  arrival  he  found  the  Sindhu  Raja  prostrate 
with  grief  at  the  loss  of  his  son,  and  comforting  him,  and 
nursing  him  back  to  health,  he  persuaded  him  to  come  to 
terms  with  his  rival.  Before  his  departure,  however,  he 
prophesied  that  in  the  near  future  his  kingdom  would 
vanish,  and  not  a stone  of  his  palace  would  remain  standing, 
167 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

a prophecy  which  has  been  fulfilled.  The  Guru  is  said  to 
have  married,  before  his  departure,  a daughter  of  the  Raja 
named  Memo-Tashi  Kyeden. 

When  we  got  back  to  the  new  house  the  Tongsa’s 
sister  gave  us  an  excellent  lunch,  but  she  would  not  sit 
down  with  us,  contenting  herself  with  a pretty  speech,  in 
which  she  said  that,  according  to  Bhutanese  custom,  some 
great  personage  would  have  been  invited  to  the  house- 
warming, but  she  was  exceptionally  fortunate  and  considered 
it  a most  auspicious  omen  that  her  brother’s  two  oldest 
friends,  Mr.  Paul  and  myself,  should  have  accompanied 
him  when  he  paid  his  first  visit  to  her  new  house.  Later 
on  she,  with  her  daughters  and  servants,  dressed  in  old- 
fashioned  Bhutanese  dress,  in  order  to  let  me  take  a few 
photographs,  and  in  the  evening,  after  dining  with  us,  the 
Jongpen  and  the  eldest  daughter  gave  us  some  Bhutanese 
music,  the  former  on  the  damnyan  and  the  latter  on  the 
pyang.  The  younger  son  and  the  youngest  daughter  live 
at  the  new  Chumik  Gompa,  where  I rode  to  pay  them  a visit. 
The  boy  was  the  Avatar  of  the  Thaling  Monastery,  and 
they  were  bright,  pleasant  young  folk.  The  boy’s  teacher 
and  guardian,  a Lopen  of  Mindoling,  near  Samye,  was  one  of 
the  most  refined-looking  lamas  from  Tibet  that  I have  met. 
Next  day  I rode  again  to  the  Champa  Lhakhang  Monastery, 
to  see  the  carpenters  and  carvers  at  work.  The  former 
use  a square  and  a double-manned  plane.  Most  of  the 
carving  tools  are  without  handles.  No  iron  is  used,  but  all 
the  pieces  of  timber  are  fitted  together  in  the  yard,  and  the 
necessary  dowels  made  before  they  are  carried  away  to  the 
building. 

Before  leaving  I gave  a magic-lantern  entertainment, 
which  was  highly  appreciated,  and  later,  at  the  sister’s 
special  request,  my  escort  came  from  Bya-gha  and  gave 
a military  display,  to  their  great  enjoyment.  We  then 
wished  our  kind  hosts  good-bye  with  sincere  regret,  for  we 
had  thoroughly  enjoyed  the  natural,  open-hearted  hospi- 
tality with  which  all  at  Wong-du-choling  had  entertained 
1 68 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

us,  and  in  sultry  weather  we  rode  back  to  Bya-gha,  where 
we  again  encamped  preparatory  to  turning  our  faces  home- 
wards. 

The  Tongsa  was  to  see  me  in  the  morning  to  arrange 
about  sending  off  presents  to  His  Excellency  the  Viceroy  and 
other  high  officials,  but  sent  word  that  he  was  not  very  well. 
He  came  later  on  in  the  day,  looking  a little  out  of  sorts, 
and  laughed  the  matter  off  by  saying  he  had  eaten  too 
many  green  chillies,  the  first  of  the  season. 

With  the  approach  of  our  departure  Sir  Ugyen,  his 
sister,  daughters,  and  two  of  his  nieces,  came  to  take  a 
formal  farewell,  and  brought  with  them  many  little  parting 
gifts,  and  in  the  afternoon,  at  their  special  request,  my 
escort  gave  another  military  display,  ending  with  an  attack 
and  capture  of  an  outlying  village,  which  greatly  amused 
the  large  crowd  assembled  to  look  on.  After  it  was  over 
the  Tongsa’ s sister  and  daughters  insisted  on  my  going  to 
the  fort  to  tea  with  them  before  they  returned  to  Andu- 
choling  that  evening.  As  my  stock  of  presents  was  running 
short,  I asked  them  to  accept  some  notes,  which,  being  in 
halves,  like  so  many  Indian  ones,  I had  neatly  rolled  up  in 
a leather  bag.  These  I heard  later  the  ladies  had  dis- 
tributed promiscuously  among  themselves,  when  luckily 
Ugyen  Kazi  came  on  the  scene  and  tried  to  explain  that 
half-notes  were  worthless.  It  was  difficult  to  make  them 
understand,  and  the  knotty  point  was  solved  by  the  ladies 
saying  to  the  Kazi,  “ Oh,  brother  ! take  them  yourself  and 
bring  us  silks  from  Calcutta.”  I found  Sir  Ugyen’s  sight 
was  beginning  to  fail  a little,  and  as  my  spectacles  exactly 
suited  him  I was  able  to  give  him  a spare  pair. 

With  the  morning  the  actual  hour  of  our  departure 
arrived,  and  we  struck  camp  and  commenced  our  real 
journey  back.  Sir  Ugyen  and  his  son-in-law  left  very 
early,  intending  to  make  one  march  to  Tongsa,  but  we 
were  accompanied  by  the  other  members  of  his  family  as 
far  as  the  main  ridge,  where  they  all  presented  us  with 
scarves  and  wished  us  good  luck,  saying  how  really  sorry 
169 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

they  were  to  bid  us  good-bye.  I replied  in  similar  terms, 
and  could  honestly  say  that  all  my  party  fully  reciprocated 
their  feelings  of  regret,  for  one  and  all  had  done  their  best, 
and  had  succeeded,  in  making  our  stay  at  Bya-gha  and 
Andu-choling  a very  pleasant  one. 

We  had  a delightful  ride  and  walk  to  our  old  camp 
at  Gya-tsa,  which  is  evidently  a much  colder  place  than 
Bya-gha;  there  the  wheat  was  in  full  ear,  here  it  was  only  a 
foot  high.  There  was  much  more  cultivation  on  the  slopes 
with  a north-eastern  aspect  than  on  those  with  a southern 
one.  This  is  probably  due  to  the  former  getting  the 
morning  sun,  and  also  to  being  sheltered  from  the  southerly 
winds  that  rage  up  the  valleys.  Quail  abound  in  all  the 
cornfields,  and  apparently  breed  in  these  valleys. 

A fine  morning  turned  into  heavy  mist  as  we  reached 
the  top  of  the  Yo-to-la,  and  utterly  spoilt  our  view  of  the 
Gya-tsa  Valley  and  the  hills  opposite  Tongsa.  The  yellow 
giant  Sikhim  primula  was  in  magnificent  bloom,  some 
specimens  having  as  many  as  six  tiers  of  flowers. 

On  nearing  the  castle  we  were  met  by  a bevy  of  song- 
stresses, a custom  peculiar  to  the  place,  as  this  is  the  only 
province  of  Bhutan  in  which  women  take  part  in  cere- 
monial processions,  though,  according  to  Pemberton,  the 
custom  was  much  more  widespread  in  his  time.  Sir 
Ugyen  met  us  in  camp  with  the  information  that  the 
castle  lamas  were  all  ready  and  eager  to  finish  the  dances 
that  on  our  previous  visit  had  been  stopped  by  rain,  so 
after  a hasty  lunch  I went  on  to  the  castle.  The  dance 
went  off  very  well,  with  the  dancers  in  gorgeous  dresses  of 
every  imaginable  colour,  to  the  accompaniment  of  weird 
tomtoms  and  huge  trumpets,  flutes,  and  cymbals,  which 
produce  a strange  and  unusual  but  rather  fascinating 
music  of  their  own.  But  the  most  interesting  objects  to 
me  were  the  masks,  which,  instead  of  being  carved  out  of 
wood,  as  in  Sikhim,  were  moulded  from  a papier -machd  of 
cloth  and  clay ; and  very  well  moulded  they  were,  the 
heads  of  the  various  animals  quite  recognisable,  and  many 
170 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 


with  great  character.  The  Tongsa  was  good  enough, 
about  this  time,  on  learning  I had  become  a grandfather, 
to  make  me  a pretty  speech,  in  which  he  hoped  that  as  I 
had  been  a true  and  good  friend  to  him  and  to  Bhutan,  my 
grandson  would  in  his  turn  follow  in  my  footsteps  and  be 
as  good  a friend  to  his  grandson  and  to  Bhutan,  and  there- 
upon the  little  chap  was  brought  by  his  mother  to  offer  his 
best  wishes  to  his  contemporary. 

We  now  came  in  for  a spell  of  terribly  wet  weather, 
which  lasted  for  the  next  few  days.  I fancy  Tongsa  is  a 
very  wet  place,  and  naturally  Sir  Ugyen’s  family  forsake 
it  after  the  cold  weather.  In  pouring  rain  we  marched  on 
to  Tshang-kha,  and  a terrible  march  it  was ; the  stone  steps 
seemed  interminable,  and  to  lead  in  every  direction  but  that 
which  took  us  to  our  camp.  Sir  Ugyen  had  started  before 
us,  and  was  ready  waiting  when  we  eventually  arrived  with 
welcome  refreshment.  He  had  determined  to  see  us  as  far 
as  the  boundary  of  his  province  at  Pele-la,  and  agreed  to  be 
our  guest  on  the  way.  He  is  always  very  keen  to  find  outlets 
for  his  ryots’  superfluous  food-stuffs,  and  on  finding  such 
things  as  Paysandu  tongues  and  chutneys  amongst  our  stores 
made  many  inquiries  as  to  the  best  methods  of  preserving 
provisions.  We  had  many  long  talks  on  Bhutanese  affairs 
and  new  methods  of  government,  about  which  he  was  always 
glad  to  converse  and  ready  to  ask  for  suggestions  and  im- 
provements. After  very  heavy  rain  all  night,  it  cleared 
about  the  time  we  started,  so  we  had  a very  interesting f 
though  rather  slippery,  ride  toChendenbi  (7380  feet),  about 
four  miles  nearer  than  Rokuhi,  where  we  halted  before,  and 
a better  distribution,  as  the  former  march  from  Tshang-kha 
to  Rokuhi  was  too  long.  We  rode  through  typical  sub- 
tropical forests,  until,  suddenly  rounding  a spur,  we  emerged 
into  open  country  and  fir-trees.  Opposite  our  camp  at 
Chendenbi,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  there  were  cliffs 
of  pure  white  crystalline  limestone,  which  I should  think 
was  equal  to  the  finest  marble. 

After  dinner  that  evening  Sir  Ugyen  made  a speech,  in 
171 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

which  he  expressed  his  deep  regret  that  on  the  morrow  we 
should  have  to  part.  He  hoped  sincerely  he  should  meet 
Major  Rennick  and  myself  again,  but  feared  that  Mr.  Paul 
would  not  be  tempted  out  from  England  any  more.  In 
wishing  him  good-bye  he  trusted  that  in  his  far-distant 
home  he  would  not  forget  him  or  Bhutan  or  the  good  seed 
he  had  planted  and  nourished  for  the  last  twenty  years. 

We  reached  the  top  of  the  Pele-la  along  a very  pretty 
road,  where  a small  yellow  rose,  clematis,  wild  pear,  and 
rhododendrons  of  many  colours  were  in  wild  profusion, 
while  the  meadows  were  clothed  with  blue  and  white 
anemones,  yellow  pansies,  and  countless  primulas. 

At  the  top  of  the  pass  we  had  lunch  and  were  photo- 
graphed, and  then  had  reluctantly  to  part  with  our  friend 
and  kind  host  and  his  son-in-law.  My  escort,  who  had  a 
genuine  respect  for  Sir  Ugyen,  presented  arms  and  gave  him 
three  cheers  before  turning  dowrn  the  hill.  We  exchanged 
scarves  and  good  wishes,  and  then  also  followed  the  path 
down  the  hill.  Sir  Ugyen  waved  us  a last  salute  as  we 
turned  the  corner  and  wrent  out  of  sight.  I think  he  really 
felt  our  departure  as  much  as  I can  honestly  say  I did,  and 
I cannot  help  repeating  myself  and  saying  again  that  no 
host  could  have  been  more  courteous,  more  hospitable,  and 
more  thoughtful  of  his  guests  than  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk, 
the  Tongsa  Penlop  of  Bhutan,  was  to  us,  the  Mission  sent 
by  the  Government  of  India  to  present  him  with  the  Insignia 
of  a Knight  Commander  of  the  Indian  Empire. 

The  rest  of  the  march  to  our  camping-place,  Ridha,  was 
very  slippery,  but  the  rain  kept  off  till  most  of  our  tents 
were  pitched,  and  next  day  we  had  a fair  morning  and 
lovely  day,  with  only  one  heavy  shower.  It  was  a long 
march  to  Samtengang,  but  very  beautiful,  and  each  day 
brought  its  new  flowers,  a large  white  rose,  a white  and  a 
mauve  iris,  both  new  to  me ; and  the  giant  lily  ( Lilium 
gigantium)  appeared  for  the  first  time.  It  was  a tiresome 
march  on  to  Angdu-phodang,  over  a road  too  narrow  to 
ride,  so  walking  was  compulsory,  and  in  the  afternoon  a 
172 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 


hurricane  arose  and  raged  till  nearly  ten  at  night,  when 
it  began  to  drizzle. 

I now  determined  to  try  a new  route  up  the  right  bank  of 
the  Tsang-chhu  or  Mo-chhu-Pochu,  andTeo-pa-raong-chhu. 
The  river  was  in  full  flood,  and,  filling  its  bed  from  bank  to 
bank,  looked  very  fine.  I did  well  in  choosing  this  route, 
as  the  road  was  an  excellent  one,  with  a steady  ascent  from 
start  to  finish,  and  we  rode  the  whole  way  to  Lung-me-tsawe. 
There  were  lovely  flowers  in  bloom  everywhere,  and  on  the 
way  we  passed  the  sites  where  formerly  two  iron  suspension 
bridges  had  been  ; the  remains  of  the  chains  were  lying 
below  the  Jong.  Two  fords  were  also  pointed  out.  I 
found  the  ascent  of  the  Dokyong-la  much  less  difficult  than 
it  appeared  on  our  descent  earlier  in  the  journey,  and 
I had  some  lovely  views  until  we  ran  into  mist  on  the  top. 
Luckily  I had  one  glimpse  of  Kulu-Kangri,  a very  fine 
peak  of  24,740  feet.  On  the  top  of  the  pass  I saw  the  first 
yew-trees  I had  come  across  in  Bhutan.  We  found  a 
deputation  from  the  Thimbu  Jongpen  waiting  for  us,  with 
mules  to  ride,  and  chang,  tea,  and  murwa  as  refreshments, 
not  only  for  ourselves,  but  for  all  our  following.  The 
descent  to  Simtoka  was  very  easy,  and  the  mist  soon 
cleared  off. 

Just  across  the  bridge  below  Simtoka  the  band  and 
dancers  belonging  to  the  Thimbu  received  us,  and  played 
us  into  our  camp,  nearly  three  miles  off,  at  Tashi-cho-jong, 
on  the  wide  maidan  about  a mile  from  the  palace.  With 
our  ridden  mules  and  led  mules  in  their  gay  trappings, 
monks  on  ponies,  orderlies  in  bright  uniforms,  bands  of 
musicians  and  dancers,  and  all  the  rest  of  our  varied  and 
motley  following,  we  made  a goodly  procession.  It  was 
hot,  and  I wished  I could  have  headed  the  procession  after 
the  regal  manner  of  King  David,  with  an  umbrella  to  shelter 
me ; and,  to  my  great  relief,  when  we  reached  the  chorten 
above  the  aqueduct  we  found  a large  umbrella  had  been 
unfurled,  and  we 'rested  awhile  under  it  before  making 
our  final  entry.  The  Thimbu  offered  us  refreshments,  and 
i73 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

made  the  most  polite  inquiries  after  our  healths,  and  hoped 
we  had  not  had  an  excessively  tiresome  journey.  I assured 
him  that  his  arrangements  had  been  so  excellent  we  had 
not  known  what  difficulties  were,  and  to  this  he  replied 
the  Bhutanese  did  not  easily  make  friends,  but  when  they 
did  no  trouble  was  too  great  to  make  their  guests  feel 
comfortable  and  thoroughly  at  home. 

We  found  our  camp  pitched  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Thim-chhu,  where  a new  wooden  house  had  been  erected, 
with  a large  room  with  windows  away  from  the  prevailing 
winds.  Here  the  Thimbu  was  joined  by  the  Zung  Donyer 
and  the  Deb  Zimpon.  The  table  was  decorated  with  fruit 
and  some  of  the  finest  peonies  I have  ever  seen,  a cauldron 
of  murwa  was  in  the  centre,  and  as  soon  as  we  were  all 
seated  the  Thimbu’s  chaplain  intoned  grace,  in  which  the 
others  joined;  the  murwa  was  then  solemnly  blessed,  a 
little  in  a ladle  was  poured  over  my  hands,  and  the  sacred 
flag  brought  in  for  me  to  touch.  Next  a number  of  tea- 
pots were  brought  in,  three  at  a time,  each  of  the  trio 
containing  a different  tea.  These  were  sent  by  the  various 
officials  as  their  greeting,  and  when  the  donor’s  name  had 
been  announced  the  tea  was  taken  away  to  regale  our 
followers.  We  spent  some  little  time  in  conversation  with 
our  hosts  before  going  to  our  tents  at  the  conclusion  of  this 
quaint  ceremony  of  welcome. 

The  following  day  we  went  early  to  the  palace  to  bid 
the  Deb  Raja  good-bye.  His  reception  room  was  very 
large  and  airy,  and  the  Deb  himself  was  most  cordial,  and 
came  forward  to  receive  us,  and  stood  talking  till  our  own 
chairs  were  brought  in.  In  the  course  of  conversation  the 
Deb  again  expressed  his  sincere  gratitude  to  the  Viceroy  for 
having  sent  such  friends  to  see  him,  and  to  us  for  coming} 
and  trusted  that  relations  between  his  little  country  and 
the  Sirkar  would  always  be  intimate  and  friendly,  as  pure 
as  a white  scarf  with  no  blot  to  mar  its  whiteness,  as  in- 
dissoluble as  water  and  milk  when  intermixed,  and  that  on 
his  part  no  effort  should  be  wanting  to  secure  so  happy  a 
i74 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
result,  and  should  any  one  of  us  at  any  time  return  he 
could  assure  him  of  a hearty  welcome.  He  asked  me  to  send 
him  a set  of  photographs  of  Lhasa  and  of  Bhutan,  and 
inquired  if  I had  any  of  Buddh-Gaya,  as  he  was  anxious  to 
possess  some.  He  sat  for  his  own  photograph,  and  when 
refreshments  had  been  served  we  were  dismissed  with  the 
scarf  of  blessing,  which  he  placed  on  our  arms. 

From  there  we  adjourned  to  the  Thimbu’s  room,  where 
he  had  a Bhutanese  breakfast  waiting  for  us,  consisting 
principally  of  bowls  of  rice,  omelettes,  dishes  of  sausages, 
and  pork  in  various  forms.  He  too  expressed  his  pleasure 
at  our  visit  to  his  country,  and  wished  our  stay  could  be 
prolonged,  and  the  least  he  could  do  was  to  accompany  us  as 
far  as  Hram,  and  in  the  meantime  he  asked  us  to  gratify 
him  by  selecting  anything  in  his  hall  that  took  our  fancy. 

At  the  conclusion  of  this  civil  speech  we  went  to  the 
separate  court  of  the  Ta-tshang  lamas,  where  the  Dorji- 
Lopon,  or  abbot,  received  us  very  cordially,  and  took  us 
into  the  big  hall  I described  on  my  journey  up.  Here  we 
found  a kind  of  pandemonium  going  on,  but  on  closer 
examination  discovered  there  were  a number  of  dancing 
classes  in  progress,  from  the  smallest  acolytes  shouting  out 
the  numbers  of  the  little  steps  and  arm-wavings  they  were 
being  taught,  to  a grave  collection  of  learned  monks  per- 
forming unmasked  the  gyrations  that  we  had  witnessed  at 
Tongsa.  When  we  came  out  we  learnt  that  it  was  entirely 
against  rules  for  any  layman  to  intrude  upon  the  monks 
when  thus  practising,  and  I apologised  to  the  abbot  for 
breaking  rules  through  my  ignorance,  but  he  smilingly 
replied  that  “no  rules  applied  to  us,  as  he  hoped  we  would 
consider  ourselves  as  one  with  them.”  When  giving  us 
scarves  before  leaving  the  gompa,  the  abbot,  who  was 
joined  by  the  Lopens,  trusted  that  now  that  we  had  found 
our  way  to  their  abode  and  become  their  friends  we  would 
make  a point  of  some  day  returning,  but  that  whatever 
fate  might  be  in  store  for  us  and  them,  at  least  our  pre- 
sent firm  friendship  might  remain  for  ever  unbroken  and 
175 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

enduring.  It  was  very  pleasant  to  find  the  same  cordial 
wishes  and  expressions  of  goodwill  repeated  by  every  one 
in  turn,  and  to  be  made  to  feel  so  thoroughly  that  our 
visit  was  looked  on  in  the  light  of  a compliment  to  their 
country,  and  that  everything  was  thrown  open  to  us,  instead 
of  finding  obstacles  and  difficulties  in  our  way. 

The  history  of  the  building  of  Poonakha  I heard  from 
the  Thimbu  Jongpen,  who,  when  a boy,  heard  it  from  a very 
old  woman.  According  to  him,  the  old  palace  and  fort 
stood  on  the  ridge  where  the  Dechen-phodang  stands.  The 
greater  part  of  it  having  been  burnt  down,  the  Deb  Zimpon, 
who  had  usurped  all  the  power,  determined  to  rebuild  it 
on  its  present  site,  which  was  much  more  convenient  for 
the  supply  of  water.  The  valleys  were  thickly  populated 
in  those  days,  and  the  Deb  collected  so  many  people  that 
the  materials  were  passed  from  hand  to  hand  the  whole 
way  from  Dechen-phodang  to  Tashi-cho-jong,  a distance  of 
quite  a mile.  It  is  needless  to  say  the  labour  was  forced, 
and  although  the  palace  was  said  to  have  been  completed 
in  one  year  the  Deb  became  very  unpopular. 

The  Tibetans  seem  to  have  been  very  fond  of  raiding 
Bhutan,  as  the  fort  of  Simtoka,  close  by,  built  by  the  first 
Shabdung,  was  soon  after  captured  and  burnt  by  them. 
In  rebuilding  it  the  architect  utilised  one  of  the  original 
wood  pillars  which  had  only  been  singed  as  a memorial  of 
the  saint.  It  stands  there  to  this  day,  its  damaged  surface 
covered  with  elaborate  carving. 

We  broke  up  camp  early  in  the  morning,  and  for  three 
or  four  miles  our  path  lay  through  open  ground  similar  in 
character  to  that  below  Tashi-cho-jong.  We  saw  several 
monasteries,  but  only  entered  one,  Pangri-sampi-gnatsa, 
which  was  beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  valley, 
but  contained  nothing  of  much  interest.  Turning  due 
north  over  a cliff,  we  came  to  an  entirely  different  scene, 
the  valley  narrowing  considerably,  and  being  beautifully 
wooded  and  picturesque  to  a degree.  Throughout  the 
march  ruined  houses  were  in  a majority,  most  evidently 
176 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

deserted  years  ago,  as  big  trees  had  grown  up  in  and  around 
them,  and  this  state  of  things  was  accounted  for  by  the 
following  story.  The  monastery  of  Dechenphuk,  founded 
by  one  of  the  pioneers  of  Buddhism,  lies  in  a beautiful 
side  valley  about  three  miles  from  Tashi-cho-jong.  The 
monks  belonging  to  the  monastery  refused  to  recognise  the 
first  Shabdung  when  he  came  to  the  valley,  and  con- 
sequently there  was  strife  between  them.  The  ryots 
naturally  sided  with  their  old  masters,  the  monks  of  Dechen- 
phuk, but  in  the  end  the  Shabdung  won  the  day,  and  by 
his  magic  art  summoned  a terrible  demon  to  his  aid,  and 
the  ryots  died  off,  and  no  one  dared  to  take  their  place. 
Such  was  the  local  legend,  and  whatever  the  truth  of 
the  story  may  be,  disease  or  oppression  or  other  calamity 
has  played  havoc  with  the  valley.  Just  before  arriving 
at  our  destination  we  saw  the  monastery  of  Tango  perched 
up  a side  valley  to  our  right,  the  home  of  the  Tango 
Lama,  who  received  us  so  hospitably  on  our  journey  in. 
The  camp  was  on  a small  flat,  close  to  the  river  and 
beneath  a cliff,  on  which  is  perched  the  Cheri  Monastery, 
dating  back  to  the  first  Dharma  Raja.  After  lunch,  in 
time  for  which  the  Thimbu  arrived,  Paul  and  myself 
went  up  to  the  gompa ; but  it  is  terribly  difficult  of  access. 
To  get  from  the  lower  to  the  higher  temple  it  is  necessary 
to  climb  very  narrow  rough  stone  steps  overhanging  a sheer 
precipice,  over  a projecting  crag,  and  down  other  steps  to 
the  platform  of  the  temple,  which  is  literally  clinging  to 
the  cliff.  It  is  in  bad  repair,  and  did  not  repay  me  for  the 
trouble  of  getting  there,  as  it  contained  nothing  of  interest. 

It  rained  most  of  the  afternoon,  and  to  the  damp  and 
unhealthiness  of  this  camping-ground  and  the  very  long 
and  wet  march  through  drizzling  rain  the  following  day  I 
attributed  the  fever  with  which  most  of  my  followers  went 
down.  An  hour  and  a half’s  climbing  up  a steep  and  bad 
path  brought  us  to  a little  glade  called  Aitok-keng,  and 
we  continued  to  climb  till  we  came  to  an  open  side  valley 
in  which  was  situated  the  small  fort  of  Barshong,  close  to 

177  M 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

which  was  our  camping-ground.  I had  an  attack  of  fever 
also  by  this  time,  and  was  glad  to  go  dinnerless  to  bed  as 
soon  as  the  baggage  came  up.  On  the  march  that  day 
both  sides  of  the  valley  were  thickly  wooded,  only  the 
more  precipitous  rocks  being  bare.  Geographically  we 
had  now  left  the  middle  third  of  Bhutan,  and  had  entered 
the  narrow  gorge  which  leads  upwards  to  the  plains  of 
Tibet.  From  the  fort  our  path,  which  throughout  proved 
to  be  quite  good,  led  gently  down  to  the  bed  of  the  stream, 
the  Tchin-chhu,  which,  with  a few  occasional  ups  and  downs, 
we  hardly  left.  The  thick  vegetation  of  the  previous  day 
soon  ceased,  and  we  entered  a gorge  almost  filled  by  the 
Tchin-chhu,  and  bordered  by  stupendous  cliffs  of  most 
weird  shapes,  amongst  which  El  Capitano  of  the  Yosemite 
Valley  would  be  dwarfed  by  the  lowest  of  these  monsters. 
These  cliffs  appeared  to  be  formed  by  horizontal  strata  of 
sedimentary  rocks,  consisting  of  layers  of  limestone,  sand- 
stone, slate  or  shale  of  a dark  blue  colour,  and  quartzites. 
The  towering  rocks  were  cleft  in  numberless  places  from 
top  to  bottom,  leaving  narrow  slits  or  fissures  which  I was 
told  were  often  more  than  a mile  long.  One  which  I 
photographed  extends  for  more  than  two  miles  before  it 
opens  out  in  a beautiful  basin  and  forms  one  of  the 
Thimbu’s  best  grazing-stations. 

Through  scenery  like  this  we  rode  for  ten  miles,  crossing 
the  Tchin-chhu  no  less  than  six  times.  At  length  we  left 
the  main  stream,  turned  to  the  right  into  an  open  valley 
devoid  of  trees  but  of  great  width,  and,  ascending  gently  for 
another  two  miles,  reached  our  camp  at  Byaradingka,  a 
wide  maidan  of  the  highland  character  so  often  met 
with.  On  the  slopes  to  the  west  we  saw  several  flocks  of 
burhel,  but  failed  to  bag  any.  The  hills  here  consist  of 
dark  shales,  which  run  right  up  to  the  east  foot  of  Chomo- 
lhari,  and  are  very  similar  to  those  met  with  at  Khamba- 
jong  ; while  the  same  curious  concretions  are  also  to  be  found 
here.  The  only  gneiss  I saw  was  that  brought  down  by 
the  glaciers  running  from  Chomolhari. 

178 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

On  a misty  morning  we  rode  quietly  up  the  valley, 
and  after  an  hour’s  gradual  ascent  reached  the  Yakle-la 
(16,800  feet).  The  maps,  I found,  were  completely  wrong, 
as  the  pass  is  situated  on  the  water-parting  which  separates 
the  Thim-chhu  from  the  Mo-chhu,  the  eastern  slopes  of 
Chomolhari  thus  draining  into  the  Poonakha  river.  On 
the  left  of  our  path  there  lay  a pretty  dark  green  tarn,  fed 
from  a small  snow-slope  to  the  west  of  the  pass,  and  from 
thence  a somewhat  steep  descent  brought  us  to  the  main 
stream  of  the  Pim-nak-me-chhu,  which  joins  the  Mo-chhu 
near  Ghassa.  Following  the  valley  for  a few  miles,  we  soon 
came  in  sight  of  Lingzi-jong  on  a hill  apparently  blocking 
the  valley,  but  as  we  continued  our  march  we  discovered 
another  ridge  between  us  and  Lingzi,  round  which  we  had 
to  ride,  ascending  and  descending  for  some  way  through 
lovely  rhododendron  scrub,  of  which  at  least  eight  diffe- 
rent varieties  were  in  flower.  Crossing  the  stream,  which 
separates  the  two  ridges,  and  which  rises  in  some  glaciers 
coming  down  from  the  east  of  Chomolhari,  we  again  ascended 
the  shoulder  of  the  Lingzi  spur,  and,  leaving  the  ruins  of  the 
fort  on  the  top,  found  an  excellent  camping-ground  close  to 
a small  stream.  It  was,  on  the  whole,  an  easy  march,  as 
there  was  only  a small  quantity  of  snow  on  the  north  side 
of  the  pass.  We  saw  several  flocks  of  burhel,  but  could 
not  get  a shot,  although  my  shikari  was  more  successful  and 
bagged  two  females,  which  were  a useful  addition  to  the  sup- 
plies of  my  followers.  We  had  some  particularly  fine  views 
of  the  Chomolhari  glaciers  which  feed  the  lower  streams 
near  Lingzi.  We  halted  at  Lingzi  for  a couple  of  days,  and 
made  an  excursion  down  the  valley  to  try  and  locate 
Ghassa,  but  did  not  succeed,  as  it  was  cloudy  and  drizzly 
weather  and  we  could  see  no  distance. 

We  also  visited  the  ruins  of  Lingzi-jong,  which  must 
have  once  been  an  imposing  and  very  strong  citadel,  much 
larger  than  I should  have  thought  necessary,  but  the 
earthquake  of  1897  has  reduced  it  to  a picturesque  mass  of 
ruined  masonry.  The  Thimbu,  becoming  communicative, 
179 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

told  me  that  the  Tibetans  were  formerly  inclined  to  be 
very  aggressive,  and  as  this  was  in  reality  a very  vulnerable 
spot  the  Bhutanese  had  been  obliged  to  maintain  a large 
garrison  both  here  and  at  Ghassa.  When  we  reached 
Pheu-la  he  would,  he  said,  prove  his  words  by  pointing 
out  the  ruins  of  a strong  fort  the  Tibetans  had  built  on 
the  Bhutanese  side  of  the  pass  during  the  former  troubles 
with  Tibet.  “ But  now,"  he  added,  “ since  we  Bhutanese 
have  openly  thrown  in  our  lot  with  the  British,  who  have 
publicly  recognised  the  services  rendered  against  the 
Tibetans  by  the  honour  conferred  on  the  Tongsa  as  repre- 
sentative of  Bhutan,  I shall  rebuild  the  fort  on  a much 
smaller  scale,  just  sufficiently  strong  to  keep  out  cattle- 
lifters  and  suchlike.  We  now  rely  entirely  on  the  good 
faith  of  the  British  Government  to  protect  us  against 
Tibet,  should  that  nation  try  to  revenge  themselves  on 
us.”  This  sentiment  is  very  flattering  to  us,  and  I only 
hope  it  may  never  prove  unfounded.  He  also  made  a very 
significant  remark  about  the  Tibetan  indemnity.  It  was 
that  the  Tibetan  officials  had  not  the  least  objection  to 
promising  an  indemnity,  as  if  called  upon  to  pay  by  our 
Government  they  would  realise  more  than  was  necessary 
from  the  poor  ryots,  and  so  line  their  own  pockets  while 
quibbling  with  us  about  paying  in  full,  and  thus  perhaps 
make  a little  over  the  transaction.  In  this  camp  we  had 
some  matches  at  stone  quoit-pitching,  and  great  sport  over 
games  with  spear,  or  rather  pointed  stick  quoits,  at  both 
of  which  the  Bhutanese  proved  themselves  adepts. 

We  made  a leisurely  start  for  our  short  march  to  Gang- 
yul  (13,600  feet),  a little  village  in  a narrow,  flat  valley 
close  under  the  eastern  glaciers  of  Chomolhari.  While  our 
camp  was  being  got  ready  I rode  two  or  three  miles  up  the 
valley  in  the  hope  of  seeing  a remarkable  cave  which  we 
were  given  to  understand  was  in  the  locality.  We  found 
several  indentations,  before  two  of  which  were  a gompa  and 
a chorten,  but  nothing  remarkable.  We  soon  discovered, 
however,  that  our  guide  was  much  more  anxious  to  show 
180 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
us  a large  flat  rock  of  slate  situated  between  two  branches 
of  the  Tsango-chhu,  at  the  head  of  which  was  a wooden  axle, 
forming  a rack.  It  was  carefully  explained  to  us  that 
this  was  a holy  spot  on  which  human  corpses,  the  head 
and  shoulders  tied  to  the  axle  to  keep  the  body  in  place, 
were  exposed,  to  be  eaten  by  lammergeiers  and  other 
ravenous  birds  and  beasts  of  prey.  In  perfectly  solemn 
and  earnest  good  faith  we  were  told  that  the  birds  were 
fastidious  and  would  not  touch  low-caste  bodies,  and  that 
only  three  families  in  the  valley  were  entitled  to  be  thus 
disposed  of.  The  Thimbu  excused  himself  from  accom- 
panying me,  as  the  memories  connected  with  this  spot  were 
very  painful  to  him,  his  daughter  only  a few  years  before 
having  been  laid  on  the  slab.  One  of  our  guides  lay  down 
on  the  slab,  while  another  lit  a smoky  fire,  devices  which, 
they  said,  would  be  sure  to  attract  the  lammergeiers  from 
their  eyries  ; but  the  deception  failed,  and  no  birds  appeared. 
In  another  respect  the  little  valley  was  very  remarkable,  as 
the  glaciers  seemed  to  completely  close  in  the  head,  and  I 
saw  two  avalanches  and  heard  several  more,  caused  by  the 
increasing  power  of  the  sun’s  rays  on  the  snows. 

The  main  glacier  was  most  beautiful,  looking  like  a 
curious  broad  staircase  of  snowy  whiteness  leading  from 
where  we  stood  heavenwards.  There  were  several  fine 
waterfalls  gushing  out  from  holes  in  the  cliffs  high  above 
us,  and  disappearing  before  they  reached  the  path,  the 
rivulets  of  water  oozing  out  again  from  the  banks  of  ther 
main  stream  showing  that  the  water  had  resumed  a sub- 
terranean course.  A curious  feature  about  the  falls  wasr 
that  as  the  power  of  the  sun  increased,  so  did  the  waterfalls 
visibly  increase  in  size.  Our  camp  that  night  was  a cheery 
one,  and  we  relieved  the  time  by  learning,  to  the  great 
amusement  of  the  bystanders,  to  play  Bhutanese  back- 
gammon, our  implements  being  two  wooden  dice,  a col- 
lection of  little  wooden  sticks  of  varying  length,  and  a 
handful  of  beans. 

In  anxious  fear  of  the  unknown  pass,  the  Pheu  or 
181 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Lingshi-la,  and  its  difficulties,  we  made  a very  early  start 
along  a fair  bridle-path,  which  led  us  past  the  Tsango-chhu 
and  then  turned  to  the  left  above  a small,  flourishing  valley, 
absolutely  blocked  at  one  end  by  a cliff  extending  from  side 
to  side  in  a perfect  level,  over  which  a very  fine  waterfall 
fell.  This  little  valley  was  excellently  cultivated,  and  had 
a great  many  large,  fine  fir-trees  on  its  sides.  Our  path 
brought  us  at  an  easy  gradient  to  the  top  of  the  cliff,  which 
we  discovered  was  the  lower  edge  of  another  long  level 
valley.  In  this  way  we  progressed  by  a succession  of  steps, 
as  it  were,  until  we  came  to  the  last  tread  of  the  stairway, 
which  was  an  almost  precipitous  slope  of  stone  and  rocks, 
up  which  our  laden  yaks  and  mules  struggled  slowly  but 
surely,  the  zigzag,  so  far  as  alignment  went,  being  so  good 
that  no  one  dismounted.  Surmounting  this,  we  came  to  a 
small  roundish  flat,  in  the  centre  of  which  were  the  walls, 
still  good,  of  the  fort  built  by  the  Tibetans  and  mentioned 
by  the  Thimbu.  A short  incline  then  brought  us  to  the 
top  of  the  Lingshi  Pass  (17,100  feet),  where  we  had  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  plains  and  hills  of  Southern  Tibet. 
From  this  view  I learnt  more  of  the  real  geography  of  the 
great  Kalo  Hram-tsho  plain  than  in  my  journey  over  it  on 
the  way  to  Lhasa  the  year  before.  The  succession  of  lakes, 
amongst  them  the  Rhum-tsho,  was  most  clearly  mapped 
out  at  my  feet.  To  the  north,  in  unclouded  sunshine,  lay 
a treeless,  arid  plain ; to  the  south  damp  mists  and  clouds 
shut  out  all  view  of  the  verdant,  wooded  valleys  of  Bhutan. 

After  a short,  somewhat  abrupt  descent,  in  places  still 
covered  with  snow,  we  came  on  a rocky  decline,  which 
brought  us,  after  a weary  ride,  to  the  sand-dunes  of  Hram, 
and  finally  to  the  hamlet  of  Hram-toi.  In  the  evening  we 
all  dined  together,  with  the  Thimbu  as  our  guest  for  the 
last  time  in  the  mess-tent,  which  I had  promised  to 
give  him  as  a parting  gift.  We  toasted  the  Thimbu  and 
wished  him  the  best  of  fortune,  and  had  kindly  answers 
from  him  in  return,  and  on  the  morrow  the  Bhutan  Mission 
would  practically  be  a thing  of  the  past.  We  breakfasted 
182 


MY  FIRST  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 


in  the  open,  bid  the  Thimbu  and  his  party  a sorrowful 
good-bye  and  godspeed,  and  accepted  from  him  scarves 
of  blessing.  The  Tongsa  Donyer,  who  had  accompanied  us 
everywhere  throughout  the  whole  journey,  now  took  his 
leave.  He  was  a most  jovial  officer,  never  under  any 
circumstances  put  out,  and  ever  obliging,  an  adept  at 
archery  and  all  manly  games,  fond  of  a glass  but  never 
the  worse,  a real  Bhutanese  Friar  Tuck,  and  it  was  with 
real  regret  we  bid  him  good-bye.  I do  not  think  we  could 
possibly  have  had  a more  suitable  man  as  our  factotum,  for 
in  addition  to  physical  qualifications  he  possessed  a great 
fund  of  information. 

A long,  weary  ride  across  sandy  plains  took  us  to  the 
Tang-la,  the  monotony  only  broken  when  we  missed  the 
trail  and  got  unexpectedly  bogged.  We  saw  several  herds 
of  gazelle  and  many  kyang,  but  only  succeeded  in  bagging 
a grey  goose.  At  the  top  of  the  Tang-la  my  straggling 
caravan  got  divided,  and  the  bulk  proceeded  to  the  village 
of  Chukya,  while  I and  the  remainder  kept  to  the  main 
road  and  halted  at  the  Chukya  military  encampment,  so  it 
was  very  late  before  we  settled  down,  cold,  damp,  and 
cross.  My  next  march  brought  me  to  Phari,  ground  I 
had  already  often  been  over,  and  which  I have  already 
described,  so  with  our  arrival  there  I will  bring  the  account 
of  my  first  mission  to  Bhutan  to  a close. 


183 


CHAPTER  XVI 

\N  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN  AND  A 
PORTION  OF  TIBET  IN  1906 


From  Gangtak  via  Dewangiri  to  Tashigong  and  Tashi-yangtsi, 
and  on  to  Tsekang.  Horse-flies.  Dorunga.  Cypripediutn 
Fairianum.  Sudden  rise  of  the  river.  Tigers  near  the  camp. 
Chungkhar.  Borshang  iron-mines.  Tashigong.  Stick  lac  cul- 
. tivation.  Suspension  bridges.  Source  of  the  Dongma-chhu. 
Tashi-yangtsi.  Prayer- wheels.  Old  roads.  Chorten  Kara. 

New  flowering  trees. 

For  some  years  I had  been  extremely  anxious  to  explore 
Eastern  Bhutan  and  its  neighbouring  portion  of  Tibet,  but 
it  was  not  until  May  1906  that  circumstances  enabled 
me  to  make  arrangements  to  do  so,  and  I left  Gangtak 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Dover,  the  State  engineer.  To  reach 
Dewangiri,  the  point  from  which  I intended  to  enter  Bhutan, 
I had  to  travel  to  Siliguri,  thence  by  rail  to  Dhubri,  and  on 
by  steamer  up  the  Brahmaputra  to  Gauhati,  in  Assam,  and 
from  thence  march  to  the  hills.  I had  a good  deal  of  camp 
kit  in  addition  to  my  personal  baggage  and  riding-mules 
with  me,  and  on  reaching  Gauhati  preliminary  arrangements 
took  some  time.  Marching  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  at  this 
time  of  the  year  was  very  trying ; mosquitoes  swarmed  at 
night,  and  the  incessant  croaking  of  frogs  kept  one  awake  ; 
while  worst  of  all  was  the  plague  of  horse-flies,  which 
attacked  the  mules,  oxen,  and  elephants  unmercifully. 
They  were  literally  in  swarms,  and  the  sides  of  the  elephants 
streamed  with  blood  from  their  attacks. 

A little  place  called  Dorunga  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  hills, 
184 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 
and  is  used  as  a temporary  mart  in  the  cold  weather,  but 
at  this  time  of  the  year  it  is  merely  a collection  of  deserted 
thatched  huts  in  the  midst  of  a sea  of  grass,  and  by  no 
means  healthy,  so  instead  of  halting  there  I pushed  on  up 
the  hills,  beyond  the  fever  zone.  I had  visited  Dorunga 
a few  months  before  in  the  cold  weather,  in  the  company  of 
Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  and  it  had  then 
presented  a very  different  aspect.  The  place  was  full  of 
bustle  and  movement  and  alive  with  traders  from  the 
hills,  a striking  contrast  to  its  present  appearance.  On 
that  occasion  I entered  the  hills  a little  further  to  the  west, 
at  Subankhata,  and  accompanied  Sir  Ugyen  for  a few 
marches  till  we  came  to  the  Kuru-chhu,  on  the  direct  road 
to  Tongsa.  On  this  journey  I came  across  quantities  of 
Cypripedium  Fairianum  growing  in  masses  on  the  magnesium 
limestone  hills.  This  is  the  orchid  of  which  one  specimen 
reached  England  about  i860  in  a consignment  sent  from 
Sikhim  by  Sir  Joseph  Hooker,  but  had  since  become  extinct, 
and  for  which  £1000  was  offered  by  orchid-growers.  I 
had  been  on  the  look-out  for  it  for  several  years,  and  now 
when  I did  find  it  I was  just  too  late,  as  it  had  been  dis- 
covered during  the  survey  of  the  Am-mo-chhu  Valley  a few 
months  before. 

At  Dorunga  I had  a great  deal  of  difficulty  about 
carriage,  as  no  arrangements  had  been  made  beforehand 
and  I could  get  no  coolies  ; however,  I had  four  elephants, 
and  with  them  and  another  elephant  I found  belonging  to 
one  of  the  tea-gardens,  and  which  I impressed  into  my 
service,  I started  the  most  necessary  baggage  up  the  track 
to  Dewangiri,  leaving  the  remainder  in  charge  of  the 
Havildar  till  I could  make  arrangements  from  Dewangiri. 
Transport  difficulties  were  augmented  by  the  arrival  of 
tools  for  road-making  lent  to  the  Tongsa  by  the  Government 
of  Assam,  and  as  the  store-keeper  had  made  no  arrange- 
ments for  forwarding  them  I was  obliged  to  take  them 
with  me.  The  road  we  had  to  follow  was  nothing  but 
a track  running  up  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  quite 
185 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

impassable  during  the  rains.  Before  I had  gone  very  far — 
about  two  miles,  perhaps — I came  across  various  articles  of 
baggage  lying  in  the  road,  and  soon  found  that  one  of  the 
elephants  had  bolted  and  strewn  the  road  with  impedi- 
menta. A little  further  on  I overtook  the  other  three 
elephants,  and  the  mahouts  entered  into  a lengthy  explana- 
tion that  one  elephant  would  not  go  without  its  com- 
panions, and  that  in  order  to  reload  the  delinquent  they 
must  all  go  back,  and  then  return  in  one  party,  so  I had  to 
allow  them  to  do  as  they  liked,  and  hope  they  might  some- 
how reach  their  destination.  So  much  for  the  pleasure  of 
elephant  transport. 

I pushed  on  ahead,  and  it  was  lucky  I did  so,  as  a severe 
thunderstorm  came  on,  and  the  river  rose  to  such  an  extent 
the  coolies  were  unable  to  cross,  and  had  to  spend  the  night 
in  the  jungle  on  the  banks,  while  my  mule  was  very  nearly 
carried  off  its  feet  by  the  torrent  of  reddish-yellow  mud 
and  water.  The  river  rose  with  extraordinary  rapidity, 
coming  down  in  regular  waves  of  red  mud.  I rode  on  in 
pouring  rain  to  Dewangiri,  and  was  lucky  to  find  a good 
hut,  which  had  been  built  in  expectation  of  the  Tongsa’s 
arrival  earlier  in  the  year,  and  as  my  orderly  had  kept  up 
with  me,  carrying  a bag,  I was  able  to  change  into  dry 
clothes  in  front  of  a good  fire,  and  was  none  the  worse  for 
my  adventure.  Want  of  carriage  kept  me  at  Dewangiri 
for  a day  or  two,  and  the  first  morning,  on  getting  up,  news 
was  brought  that  one  of  the  baggage  mules  was  missing,  and 
had  been  carried  off  by  a tiger  during  the  night.  I went 
out  and  found  that  the  carcase  had  been  dragged  at  least 
600  yards  along  a path  through  the  dense  jungle  and  then 
straight  down  the  khud  to  the  spot  where  I found  it.  Later 
in  the  day  the  remains  of  a sambur  were  brought  in  by  a 
mahout,  also  killed  by  a tiger  about  half  a mile  from  the 
camp,  so  tigers  must  be  very  plentiful  just  there,  and 
sport  ought  to  be  good  ; but  the  jungle  is  very  dense  and 
game  difficult  to  get  at,  and  the  hillsides  are  very  steep, 
and  in  many  places  quite  inaccessible.  I had  a machan  put 
186 


BHUTANESE  HOUSES 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 

up,  and  waited  for  some  hours  in  hopes  that  the  tiger  might 
return,  but  he  did  not  do  so,  at  any  rate  before  dark,  and 
I was  not  inclined  to  wait  longer  for  him. 

From  Dewangiri  I moved  on  to  Rading,  and  for  a short 
distance  followed  a path  which  had  been  made  up  the  left 
bank  of  the  Tsokhi  river ; but  it  was  a hopeless  track,  with- 
out any  attempt  at  alignment,  and  with  such  steep  gradients 
over  the  rocks  no  animals  could  possibly  use  it.  At  Rading 
I was  met  by  the  Tongsa  Jongpen,  whom  I had  met  when 
in  Bhutan  with  Sir  Ugyen  in  the  spring.  In  the  morning, 
after  a very  early  start,  I passed  the  large  monastery  of 
Yong-la,  near  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  at  about  7700  feet. 
It  was  very  well  situated,  looking  out  over  the  plains,  but 
I did  not  visit  it,  as  to  do  so  would  have  taken  me  five  or 
six  miles  out  of  my  way.  The  road  here  was  good  and 
rideable,  and  brought  me  to  Chungkhar,  the  residence  of 
the  Jongpen,  at  an  elevation  of  6475  feet.  Going  down 
the  hills  from  the  pass  the  woods  were  full  of  a pretty 
ground  orchid,  and  there  was  some  very  fine  timber.  At 
Chungkhar  I found  a good  camping-ground,  with  exten- 
sive views,  and  the  snows  in  the  distance,  due  north. 
The  Jongpen  was  living  in  a temporary  hut,  as  his  house 
had  been  demolished  by  the  earthquake  of  1897,  and 
although  his  new  residence  had  been  commenced  it  was 
not  yet  finished.  He  had  prepared  some  small  huts  for  us, 
which  we  found  most  comfortable  and  cool,  and  used  in 
preference  to  our  tents. 

The  mules  sent  by  the  Tongsa  now  arrived,  the  delay 
having  been  caused  by  the  destruction  of  the  Dongma-chhu 
bridge  on  account  of  an  outbreak  of  small-pox.  That  is 
the  primitive  method  in  Bhutan  of  checking  the  disease. 
The  wrought-iron  chains  of  the  bridge  are  left,  but  the 
cane  roadway  is  cut  away  to  prevent  communication  from 
one  side  to  the  other.  I had  heard  of  the  outbreak  before 
starting,  and  had  brought  a vaccinator  with  me,  who  set  to 
work  at  once  and  vaccinated  over  a hundred  people  in  the 
camp.  All  the  villagers  seemed  glad  to  be  vaccinated,  and 
187 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

men,  women,  and  children  came  in  willingly.  I also  had 
my  mules  and  ponies  re-shod,  and  this  afforded  some 
amusement  as  well  as  instruction  to  the  villagers,  who  had 
never  seen  the  operation  before,  and  after  it  was  done  they 
crowded  round  to  examine  the  animals’  hoofs.  There 
were  a number  of  small  boys  smoking  cigarettes,  which 
shows  that  the  latest  vice  has  penetrated  even  into  these 
wilds. 

On  leaving  Chungkhar  my  road  led  straight  down  the 
hill  to  the  Chalari-chhu,  and  another  few  hundred  yards 
brought  me  to  the  Demri-chhu  (2455  feet),  where  I found 
huts  ready  prepared ; but  it  was  still  early,  and  would  be 
exceedingly  hot  in  the  valley,  so  I decided  to  go  on  to 
Denchung,  where  I heard  the  Tashigong  Jongpen  was 
waiting. 

It  was  a very  hot  ride  from  the  Demri-chhu  up  the 
south-east  face  of  the  hill  to  Sari  (4000  feet),  on  the  ridge. 
Then  the  road  fell  again  to  the  Tondong  bridge  (3000  feet), 
and  then  a very  hot  climb  up  a steep  rock-face  brought  me 
to  the  camp  at  Denchung  (4275  feet).  The  camp  was  a 
very  good  one,  situated  in  the  middle  of  woods  of  oak, 
pine,  and  rhododendron,  with  huts  built  for  my  reception 
and  the  Jongpen  in  waiting. 

The  next  day’s  march  into  Tashigong  was  much  longer 
than  Texpected,  and  I was  over  twelve  hours  on  the  road. 
From  the  first  ridge  I could  see  the  famous  iron-mines  of 
Borshang,  situated  in  a fine  valley,  fairly  well  cultivated. 
The  ore  is  reported  to  be  both  red  and  black  and  easy  of 
extraction,  and  it  is  from  this  mine  that  the  iron  comes  from 
which  chains  are  made  for  the  bridges  in  this  part  of  Bhutan. 
If  I had  only  known  of  this  a little  earlier  I should  have 
paid  the  mines  a visit,  and  have  no  doubt  I should  have  been 
well  rewarded  for  the  trouble,  but  it  was  too  late  to  do  so 
then. 

The  road  took  me.  over  the  Yuto-la  (8300  feet),  and  was 
so  narrow  in  many  places — sometimes  only  six  to  nine  inches 
wide — and  on  such  a very  steep  hillside,  that  I walked  most 
188 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 
of  the  way  in  preference  to  riding  even  my  sure-footed 
mule.  The  alignment,  however,  was  good,  and  just  below 
the  Yuto-la,  to  the  north,  there  were  some  fine  downs  and 
very  good  views  ; but  these  grassy  uplands  were  infested  by 
ticks,  and  it  was  necessary  to  stop  frequently  to  pick  them 
off  the  dogs,  for  they  absolutely  swarmed  in  hundreds,  and 
even  occasionally  attacked  us. 

A lama  who  came  to  pay  his  respects  proved  to  be 
unusually  intelligent,  and  gave  me  a good  deal  of  informa- 
tion regarding  routes,  &c.  From  the  Yuto-la  the  road  led 
for  some  way  through  oak  and  rhododendron  woods,  until 
the  village  of  Rungthung  was  passed,  when  the  last  five 
miles  wound  along  a bare,  steep  hill-slope,  and  I was  glad  to 
get  to  my  destination.  The  latter  part  of  the  march  was 
very  hot,  and  the  only  shade  to  be  found  was  behind  an 
occasional  chorten,  where  I sat  down  and  drank  quantities 
of  iriurwa  sent  by  the  Tongsa ; but  the  full  force  of  the 
afternoon  sun  was  very  trying.  At  the  Jong  I was  met  by 
the  Jongpen.  The  usual  form  of  touching  a wand  was  gone 
through,  and  I was  installed  in  his  own  room. 

The  Jong  at  Tashigong  is  particularly  well  situated  on 
a ridge  between  two  rivers,  the  Dongma-chhu  and  the 
Gamdi-chhu,  and  is  constructed  after  the  Bhutanese  fashion, 
with  courtyards  and  citadels.  It  has  a fine  temple,  with  an 
unusually  large  pair  of  tusks  supporting  the  altar,  and 
fittings  in  excellent  metalwork.  I was  lodged  in  the  Jong- 
pen’s  own  room,  facing  south.  It  was  a fine,  lofty  room, 
but  there  was  a peculiarly  pungent  and  disagreeable  smell, 
which  I discovered  came  from  stores  of  dried  mutton  and 
rancid  butter  kept  under  the  floor.  I asked  the  Jongpen 
to  remove  them,  and  when  he  had  done  so  the  surroundings 
were  quite  pleasant,  as  the  room  itself  was  perfectly  clean. 
He  had  the  skins  of  some  very  fine  tigers,  which  he  told 
me  had  been  shot  during  the  last  cold  weather,  and  that 
every  year  several  tigers  come  up  the  valley  and  work 
havoc  amongst  the  cattle,  so  large  rewards  are  given  for 
their  destruction. 

189 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

With  regard  to  the  geological  features  of  the  journey, 
as  far  as  the  Yuto-la  the  strata  were  all  quartzites,  but 
after  that  mica-schist  was  met  with  in  small  quantities. 

It  was  a dreadfully  hot  camp,  but  my  baggage  had  not 
come  up,  so  I was  obliged  to  halt.  I started  my  vaccinator 
at  work  early,  and  before  evening  he  had  vaccinated  over 
two  hundred  people,  who  all  seemed  very  pleased,  and 
flocked  in  for  the  operation.  I had  sent  the  Tongsa  a 
consignment  of  lymph  from  Gangtak,  as  he  wished  to  intro- 
duce vaccination  throughout  Bhutan,  and  his  operator  met 
us  here  to  be  instructed  what  to  do. 

From  Tashigong  a road  runs  to  the  small  Tibetan  State 
of  Tawang,  first  crossing  the  river  Gamdi-chhu,  then  passing 
over  a very  steep  spur,  and  thence  to  the  Tawang-chhu. 
The  Tawang-Bhutan  boundary  is  three  days’  march  up 
the  stream,  at  a place  called  Dong  Shima,  situated  a little 
below  the  bridge  by  which  the  road  crosses  the  river.  The 
greater  part  of  the  trade  from  Tawang,  which  is,  com- 
paratively speaking,  large,  already  comes  by  this  route  to 
the  plains,  and  as  soon  as  the  Tongsa,  as  he  hopes  to  do, 
makes  a really  good  mule-track  it  will  all  follow  this  route 
to  Dewangiri,  and  as  the  valleys  are  well  populated  and 
cultivated  it  is  likely  to  increase  rapidly. 

There  is  a great  deal  of  stick  lac  grown  in  the  valley  of 
Tashigong,  but  the  Bhutanese  do  not  carry  on  its  cultivation 
in  any  systematic  manner,  which  seems  a pity,  as  if  placed 
under  proper  supervision  the  industry  might  have  a great 
future  before  it.  Its  culture  is  unusual,  quite  an  interest- 
ing process,  and  only  occasionally  to  be  met  with.  Lac 
is  an  insect  growth,  and  is  cultivated  on  two  distinct  plants. 
Small  pieces  of  lac  containing  colonies  of  the  insect  are 
placed  on  the  stem  of  a shrub  called  Gyatso-bukshing  in  the 
autumn,  and  this  plant  is  regularly  cultivated  and  planted 
in  rows  in  fields  on  the  hillsides.  In  the  spring  these 
growths,  which  have  meanwhile  spread  a few  inches  over 
the  stem  of  the  plant,  are  cut  off  and  placed  on  the  branches 
of  a tree  called  Gyatso-shing.  On  these  trees  during  the 
190 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 
summer  it  spreads  rapidly  over  all  the  branches,  and  the 
crop  is  gathered  in  the  autumn.  With  the  present  want  of 
system  there  are  no  plantations  for  the  purpose,  and  the 
cultivator  has  to  depend  on  any  trees  he  may  find  growing 
wild  in  the  jungles,  which  is,  of  course,  a hopeless  method, 
whereas  if  proper  plantations  were  made  it  would  facilitate 
not  only  the  collection  and  save  time  and  labour,  but  also 
increase  the  output.  It  is  a paying  crop,  but  can  only  be 
grown  in  these  hot,  dry  valleys. 

It  was  my  original  intention  to  follow  the  route  via 
Tawang  and  the  Dozam-la  to  Lhakhang,  but  the  Govern- 
ment of  India  did  not  wish  me  to  enter  that  part  of  Tibet. 
I therefore  had  to  abandon  it  and  go  round  by  a longer  and 
more  difficult  route.  Another  route,  the  direct  one,  along 
a road  running  from  Tashigong  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  and  said  to  be  fit  for  mules  and  ponies,  is  a very  easy 
one,  and  by  it  I could,  I believe,  have  reached  Lhakhang 
in  five  or  six  days ; but  this  also  took  me  into  prohibited 
country,  and  had  to  be  abandoned. 

From  Tashigong  a very  steep  descent  of  about  noo  feet 
took  us  down  to  the  iron  suspension  bridge  over  the  Dongma- 
chhu.  These  suspension  bridges  in  Bhutan  are  very  in- 
teresting, and  merit  description.  They  consist  of  four  or 
five  chains  of  wrought  iron,  made  of  welded  links,  each 
fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  in  length.  The  three  lower  chains 
are  tightened  up  to  one  level,  and  on  them  a bamboo  or  plank 
roadway  is  placed.  The  remaining  chains,  hanging  higher 
up  and  further  apart,  act  as  side  supports,  and  between  them 
and  the  roadway  there  is  generally  a latticework  of  bamboo, 
or  sometimes  grass,  in  order  that  animals  crossing  may  not 
put  their  legs  over  the  side.  The  roadway  is  never  more 
than  three  or  four  feet  wide.  Many  of  the  chains  on 
these  bridges  are  extremely  old — many  hundreds  of  years — 
and  appear  to  be  of  Chinese  workmanship.  The  links 
are  in  excellent  order,  and  very  little  pitted  with  rust. 
The  other  and  newer  chain  bridges  have  been  made  in 
Bhutan. 

191 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

After  crossing  the  ridge  the  road  wound  along  the  hill- 
side some  distance  above  the  river  till  we  came  to  a place 
called  Gom  Kora.  Here  there  is  a very  curious  little 
temple,  with  a prayer -wall  completely  surrounding  a large 
stone,  which  has  a curious  water-worn  hole  through  its 
centre.  It  is  considered  extremely  holy,  and  to  crawl  into 
the  small  hole  and  out  at  the  other  side  is  an  act  of  merit. 
Needless  to  say,  that  act  of  merit  is  not  placed  to  my 
credit,  though  the  more  devout  of  my  servants  and  fol- 
lowers performed  it  before  being  regaled  by  the  Tomsha- 
Tungba. 

A little  further  on  the  Dongma-chhu  was  left  on  the 
right,  and  the  road,  crossing  the  Kholung-chhu  by 
a cantilever  bridge,  climbed  a very  steep  ridge  to  the 
camp  at  Serpang  (6450  feet).  The  Dongma-chhu  is  here 
a very  large  river,  much  bigger  than  the  Kholung-chhu, 
and  probably  as  big  if  not  bigger  than  the  Kuru-chhu, 
running  swiftly  and  carrying  much  silt.  It  takes  its  rise 
in  a range  of  snow-mountains  a long  way  to  the  east,  beyond 
Tawang.  In  this  camp  also  people  crowded  to  be  vac- 
cinated, and  to  be  treated  for  various  diseases.  I did 
what  I could,  and  Mr.  Dover  was  indefatigable  in  dis- 
pensing medicines,  but  it  would  have  made  a very  great 
difference  if  I had  had  a doctor  with  me. 

The  road  on  to  Tashi-yangtsi  wound  round  the  side 
of  the  hill,  covered  with  oak  and  rhododendron,  and  the 
march  was  very  beautiful,  though  a short  one.  The  Jong 
of  Tashi-yangtsi  (5900  feet)  is  situated  on  a sharp  spur 
between  the  Kholung  and  Dongdi  rivers,  with  a very 
pretty  view  looking  up  the  valley.  In  the  river,  with  its 
beautiful  pools  and  numbers  of  fish,  there  ought  to  be  some 
good  fishing.  It  ran,  in  places,  in  deep,  silent  reaches,  very 
rare  in  any  Himalayan  river,  with  the  trees  overhanging 
and  dipping  in  the  water,  much  more  like  a river  in-Scotland, 
with  a very  gradual  fall,  and  the  water  a beautiful  blue 
colour.  A feature  of  the  march  was  the  number  of  water- 
driven  prayer-wheels,  most  of  them  in  a state  of  picturesque 
192 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 
decay,  and  only  a few  still  in  working  order.  For  the 
benefit  of  my  readers  who  are  unacquainted  with  this 
practice,  the  following  is  a short  description.  A prayer- 
wheel  consists  of  a hollow  cylinder  filled  with  written  or 
printed  prayers,  and  fixed  to  a perpendicular  shaft  of  wood, 
to  the  lower  end  of  which  horizontal  flappers  are  attached, 
against  which  water  is  directed  from  a shoot ; the  end  is 
shod  with  iron,  and  revolves  in  an  iron  socket  driven  by 
the  force  of  the  stream.  With  each  revolution  the  prayers 
are  believed  to  be  prayed  for  the  benefit  of  the  builder  of 
that  particular  wheel,  and  count  so  much  to  his  credit. 
They  are  very  easily  kept  in  order,  but  probably  because 
only  construction,  and  not  preservation,  is  a work  of  merit 
in  the  Buddhist  religion,  no  one  seems  to  take  the  trouble 
to  clear  out  the  watercourses  or  to  mend  a broken  flapper, 
and  consequently  most  of  them  were  at  a standstill.  It 
is  a delightfully  easy  method  of  praying,  and  some  enormous 
wheels  have  been  erected.  One  at  Lamteng,  in  the  Lachen 
Valley,  in  Sikhim,  contains  no  less  than  four  tons  of  printed 
paper,  and  measures  about  9 feet  in  height  by  4%  feet  in 
diameter ; but  these  very  large  ones  are  seldom  worked  by 
water-power,  and  generally  have  a crank  on  the  lever  end  of 
the  shaft,  which  any  one  anxious  to  pray  has  only  to  turn, 
while  a bell  sounding  automatically  at  each  revolution 
records  the  number  of  prayers  repeated.  Every  monastery 
throughout  Sikhim  has  a row  of  prayer-wheels  at  the 
entrance  to  the  temple,  and  as  every  true  Buddhist  passes 
he  twirls  each  cylinder  in  turn  with  the  ejaculation,  “ Om 
mani  padmi  hum.” 

The  road  along  which  we  were  travelling  had  evidently 
at  one  time  been  well  made  and  properly  aligned,  although 
it  had  been  allowed  to  go  out  of  repair.  It  must  have 
been  cut  to  four  or  five  feet  in  width,  and  well  graded  also, 
but  though  all  agreed  that  it  had  been  made  a very  long 
time  ago,  no  one  could  tell  me  when.  My  own  opinion  is 
that  it  was  probably  built  by  one  of  the  old  Rajas  who 
once  gned  in  these  valleys,  and  of  whom  some  historical 

193  n 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

records  remain  in  the  manuscripts  I found  dealing  with 
the  reign  of  the  Sindhu  Raja  of  Pumthang,  and  have  men- 
tioned elsewhere.  This  march  throughout  was  a great 
contrast  to  the  last,  as  it  was  entirely  through  cultivated 
land,  with  small  collections  of  houses,  two  or  three  together, 
not  large  enough  to  form  villages.  All  the  crops  looked 
excellent,  especially  the  wheat  and  barley ; the  country 
was  thickly  populated,  and  the  inhabitants  flourishing  and 
well  fed.  I saw  one  iron-impregnated  stream. 

There  is  an  easy  and  good  trade  route  which  runs 
from  Tashi-yangtsi  over  the  Ging-la  to  Donkhar,  where  it 
joins  the  route  from  Tashigong  and  Tawang  and  Tshona, 
and  this  is  a good  deal  used  by  traders  in  the  cold  months. 
My  shortest  route  was  by  a road  branching  off  one  day’s 
march  up  the  valley,  and  running  over  the  hills  to  Singhi- 
jong,  but  I was  told  it  was  very  difficult  and  neither 
ponies  nor  mules  could  be  taken  over  it,  and  also  that  snow 
was  lying  on  the  pass.  In  consequence  of  this  report,  I 
decided  to  proceed  vii  the  Dongo-la,  and  to  branch  off 
near  Lhuntsi-jong  and  follow  the  valley  leading  from 
there  to  Singhi-jong,  if  I could  not  get  up  the  valley  of 
the  Kuru-chhu.  While  at  Tashi-yangtsi  I visited  Chorten 
Kara.  It  is  a fine  specimen,  and  is  built  partly  on  the 
lines  of  the  big  chorten  at  Khatmandu,  but,  like  every- 
thing else,  has  its  origin  in  an  unknown  past.  Near  the 
chorten  there  were  some  terraced  paddy-  and  rice-fields 
of  a fair  size,  on  which  ploughing  and  sowing  were  in  full 
swing,  and  some  large  villages,  and  in  spite  of  the  clouds 
snow-capped  hills  appeared  every  now  and  then  up  the 
valley  to  the  right. 

The  road  on  to  Lhuntsi  took  me  up  a side  valley  through 
jungle  the  whole  way,  and  I camped  the  first  night  at 
Wangtung  (10,000  feet),  at  the  level  of  silver  pine,  on  a 
ground  so  cramped  that  I was  obliged  to  cut  several  trees 
down  to  admit  some  light  and  air ; and  as  it  was  also 
pouring  with  rain  and  very  cold  it  was  altogether  miserable 
and  uncomfortable.  The  morning  broke  very  wet,  but  it 
194 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 

cleared  a little,  enabling  me  to  get  to  the  top  of  the  first 
pass,  the  Shalaptsa-la  (12,000  feet),  without  rain.  On 
the  west  side  of  the  pass  I crossed  the  head-waters  of  the 
Sheru-chhu,  and  going  about  half  a mile  further  on  a fairly 
level  road,  reached  the  Bogong-la,  where  I crossed  the 
watershed  of  the  Kuru-chhu.  This  double  pass  is  known 
as  the  Dong-la.  It  rained  hard  whilst  I was  crossing  the 
pass,  and  for  some  distance  down  the  other  side,  where  for 
some  miles  the  road  was  as  bad  as  it  was  possible  to  be. 
It  then  ran  over  some  good  downs,  but  ended  in  a dripping 
forest,  with  deep  mud  under  foot  the  whole  distance  down 
to  Singhi  (6225  feet). 

At  Singhi  I was  met  by  the  Jongpen,  and  stayed  in  a 
house  built  on  a steep  hillside,  with  some  fine  walnut-trees 
in  front  and  a lovely  view  down  the  valley.  I held  a con- 
ference which  lasted  over  two  hours  as  to  the  best  way 
to  get  to  Lhakhang-j  ong,  but  it  was  very  difficult  to  elicit 
any  information,  or  even  to  get  an  answer  to  a simple 
question.  I wanted  to  march  up  the  Kuru-chhu,  but 
found  that  would  be  impossible,  as  the  season  was  too  far 
advanced,  and  the  temporary  bridges,  erected  during  the 
cold  weather,  had  all  been  carried  away  by  the  early  rains. 
After  much  discussion  I learnt  that  there  were  tracks  on 
both  sides  of  the  river,  though  both  were  reported  bad  and 
quite  impassable  for  mules  or  ponies,  the  one  via  Singhi- 
jong  as  we  should  have  to  cross  a glacier,  and  the  other 
on  account  of  precipitous  rocks.  It  seemed  rather  hope- 
less, but  I finally  decided  to  try  the  Singhi-jong  route  on 
foot  and  to  send  my  mules  and  ponies,  as  well  as  Sir  Ugyen’s, 
along  a road  running  from  Singhi,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Kuru-chhu,  to  the  Kuru  Sampa,  and  round  via  Bya-gha- 
jong,  from  whence  they  would  cross  the  Monla-Kachung-la 
and  meet  me  at  the  Lhalung  Monastery. 

After  a very  wet  night  I got  away  in  fairly  fine  weather, 
and  went  down  a very  steep  descent  to  the  Kuru-chhu 
(4100  feet),  and  then  for  some  distance  along  the  road 
on  the  left  bank,  over  which  the  mules  would  go,  but,  owing 

*95 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

to  there  being  no  bridge  over  the  Khoma-chhu,  I had  to 
climb  up  and  down  an  unnecessary  1400  feet.  Leaving 
the  Kuru-chhu,  I branched  off  from  Pemberton’s  route, 
going  north,  while  his  led  across  the  river  and  down  its 
right  bank ; then,  passing  the  village  of  Khoma,  an  ex- 
ceedingly steep  ascent  brought  me  to  Pangkha,  where  I 
lodged  in  the  Angdu-phodang  Donyer’s  house. 

From  the  village  of  Nyalamdung,  on  the  way,  I had  a 
good  view  of  Lhuntsi-jong,  standing  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Kuru-chhu.  The  Jong  is,  as  usual,  built  on  a fine  spur 
between  two  rivers,  and  is  a large  fort  with  two  towers,  but 
I did  not  visit  it,  as  it  was  at  least  six  miles  out  of  my  way. 
The  Jongpen  was  much  disappointed  that  I would  not  stay 
some  days  with  him,  but  I had  news  that  the  Tongsa  had 
already  started  from  Bya-gha  to  meet  me  at  Lhakhang, 
and  I did  not  wish  to  keep  him  waiting.  All  the  same,  it 
took  me  a couple  of  days  to  get  my  coolies  together,  as 
they  had  to  carry  food  for  five  or  six  days  along  with 
them.  The  Donyer’s  house,  in  which  I lodged,  was  perched 
on  the  side  of  a steep  hill,  and  on  leaving  it  one  was  obliged 
to  go  either  straight  up  or  straight  down,  so  I remained  a 
good  deal  indoors.  Every  square  yard  of  ground  round 
the  village  had  been  made  the  most  of,  and  all  of  it  was 
terraced,  manured,  and  well  cultivated,  to  get  the  best 
possible  crop  off  it. 

From  Pangkha  I crossed  the  Ye-la,  a mere  spur,  and 
had  to  descend  again  3000  feet  to  the  Khoma-chhu,  which 
I had  left  only  a few  days  before.  While  on  the  descent 
I saw  for  the  first  time  some  very  fine  flowering  trees 
called,  in  Bhutanese,  Chape  and  Phetsi,  which  were  very 
handsome.  The  blossom  somewhat  resembles  a large  tea- 
flower,  and  they  bear  an  edible  fruit,  which  is  gathered  in 
August.  This  is  the  only  place  where  I have  come  across 
these  trees,  and  I have  no  idea  what  they  are. 


196 


CHAPTER  XVII 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN  AND  A 
PORTION  OF  TIBET  IN  1906 — continued 


From  Tsekang  to  Lhakhang-jong.  Lhalung  Monastery  and 
Pho-mo-chang-thang  Lake  to  Gyantse.  Crossing  the  Bod-la 
between  Bhutan  and  Tibet.  Riding  yaks.  Welcome  in  Tibet. 
Meeting  with  Sir  Ugyen.  Wild  gooseberries.  Old  gold-work- 
ings. Friendliness  of  Tibetans.  Lhakhang-jong.  Tuwa-jong. 
Dekila,  widow  of  Norbu  Sring.  Lhalung  Monastery.  Ovis 
ammon.  Source  of  the  Nyeru-chhu. 

I camped  at  Tsekang  in  rain,  and  next  day  marched  up 
the  valley  of  the  Khoma  through  dense  jungle.  I had 
intended  to  reach  Singhi-jong,  but  it  was  too  far,  so  I halted 
at  Tusum  Mani  (10,900  feet),  amongst  pines  and  larches, 
on  the  only  level  place  I could  find.  The  weather  cleared 
up  a little  towards  evening,  and  I was  able  to  see  that  up 
the  stream  to  the  north  the  valley  was  blocked  by  snow- 
hills,  with  glaciers  running  down  their  sides,  but  mist  pre- 
vented me  from  seeing  anything  more.  Next  day  was 
fine,  and  I had  a beautiful  ride  to  Singhi-jong,  a very 
small  fort,  hardly  worthy  of  the  name,  but  well  situated 
on  a large  flat,  with  fine  snow  views  all  round.  I did  not 
stay  there,  but  went  on  through  the  valley  to  Narim- 
thang  (13,900  feet),  about  four  miles  from  the  Kang-la 
(16,290  feet).  I would  have  liked  to  camp  at  the  foot  of 
the  pass,  but  there  was  no  firewood  so  high,  and  the  want 
of  it  would  have  entailed  much  extra  work  for  the  coolies. 
The  morning  broke  rather  threateningly,  but  by  making 
an  early  start  and  riding  as  far  as  the  lake  below  the  pass, 
197 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

beyond  which  pack-animals  cannot  go,  I succeeded  in  cross- 
ing before  the  snow  began  to  fall.  It  was  a stiff  climb  up 
the  east  side,  and  equally  difficult  going  down  for  1500  feet 
through  snow,  and  then  over  a small  glacier  on  the  west. 
The  Kang-la  is  the  watershed,  but  not  the  boundary,  between 
Bhutan  and  Tibet.  Further  on  the  road  first  led  down  to 
a stream,  then  up  again,  and  round  a spur  leading  into 
another  valley,  up  which  we  marched  for  some  miles,  and 
just  before  reaching  our  camping-ground,  at  Metsephu 
(15,300  feet),  we  passed  a fine  lake.  It  rained  heavily  part 
of  the  way,  but  cleared  up  as  we  pitched  our  tents,  and  then 
later  began  to  snow  heavily — so  heavily  the  tents  had  to 
be  beaten  and  shaken  at  intervals  to  prevent  their  collapse. 
It  was  a cold  and  cheerless  evening,  but  the  snow  ceased 
early  and  the  night  was  clear,  while  the  morning  broke 
beautifully  fine.  We  reached  the  Bod-la  (16,290  feet),  and 
crossed  the  boundary  between  Bhutan  and  Tibet  early, 
and  the  coolies  soon  made  their  appearance,  even  carry- 
ing the  heavy  frozen  tents.  A Tibetan  block-house,  with 
loopholed  walls,  was  built  on  the  top  of  the  pass.  There 
were  some  fine  views  of  the  snow-peaks  to  the  east,  and  after 
admiring  them  I started  down  the  descent  on  the  Tibetan 
side.  It  was  a very  tiresome  march,  over  huge  rocks 
covered  with  snow,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  pass  I was  de- 
lighted to  find  yaks  and  coolies  waiting  for  me,  brought  by 
the  head  of  the  nearest  Tibetan  village  and  a representative 
from  the  Lhakhang-j ong,  which  is  also  in  Tibet.  I was 
tired,  and  it  was  very  pleasant  riding  down  on  one  of  the 
yaks.  Though  slow,  they  are  very  sure-footed,  and  carried 
me  most  comfortably  over  some  very  steep  slopes,  but  in 
one  place  I came  to  a flat  rock,  sloping  at  an  angle  of 
about  45  degrees,  with  nothing  but  a two-inch  crack  in  the 
rock  for  the  animal  to  find  a foothold  on,  and  I really  could 
not  face  it,  and  dismounted  and  walked  over,  although  my 
driver  assured  me  there  was  no  danger,  and  probably  I 
should  have  been  just  as  safe  on  the  yak  as  on  my  own 
feet.  On  reaching  a flat  lower  down  I found  both  riding- 
198 


LHALUNG  MONASTERY 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 

mules  and  ponies  waiting  for  me,  sent  by  Sir  Ugyen  and 
the  Tibetans,  and  also  a message  asking  me  to  delay  my 
arrival  at  Lhakhang  until  my  camp  there  was  prepared, 
so  a few  miles  further  on  I pitched  my  tents  in  a beautiful 
glade  in  the  midst  of  pines,  larches,  and  aspens.  The 
valley  we  passed  through  was  a fine  one,  and  the  walk 
beautiful,  with  magnificent  cliffs  on  the  north  side  for  the 
whole  distance,  nearly,  if  not  quite,  as  high  as  those  on  the 
route  above  Tashi-cho-jong  which  I had  traversed  the  year 
before  on  my  way  through  Bhutan.  After  descending 
some  thousands  of  feet  we  came  into  forests  of  black 
juniper,  and  below  that  silver  pine  and  larch.  The  climate, 
too,  was  drier.  The  view  looking  down  the  valley  across 
into  Tibet  was  very  fine,  the  hills  there  showing  up  rugged 
and  bare,  without  a tree,  although  distant  only  about 
three  miles  as  the  crow  flies,  so  sharp  is  the  line  dividing 
the  wet  and  the  dry  zones. 

The  orderlies  in  charge  of  the  yaks  the  Tongsa  had 
sent  took  the  greatest  care  of  me  whilst  going  over  the 
bad  places  on  the  road,  holding  me  on  as  though  they  were 
afraid  I might  fall  off.  In  camp  I got  a letter  from  Sir 
Ugyen  to  say  he  had  arrived  in  Lhakhang  that  day,  and 
hoped  to  meet  me  in  the  morning. 

While  making  my  way  to  the  Jong  the  following  day 
the  Jongpen  met  me  with  eggs  and  milk  and  the  headman 
of  the  village  with  chang.  At  the  Jong  itself  Sir  Ugyen 
was  waiting,  and  I found  my  camp  pitched  in  a grove  of 
poplars  and  willows,  while  the  Jongpen  had  pitched  his 
own  tent  for  me  and  made  all  preparations  for  my  com- 
fort. It  was  a very  great  pleasure  to  meet  Sir  Ugyen 
again,  and  we  had  much  to  talk  over  and  discuss. 

I had  hardly  expected  to  receive  such  a hearty  reception 
in  Tibet,  but  every  one  vied  with  one  another  in  trying  to 
make  me  comfortable  and  in  doing  everything  they  could 
for  me.  It  was  most  gratifying,  and  proved  beyond 
dispute  that  the  Tibetans  bore  no  ill-will  on  account  of 
the  Lhasa  Expedition,  and  also  that  they  were  genuinely 
199 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

pleased  to  see  me  personally.  I am  quite  sure,  notwith- 
standing the  general  opinion  to  the  contrary,  that,  could 
the  physical  difficulties  be  overcome,  there  would  be  but 
little  opposition  shown  by  Tibetans  generally  to  any  one 
travelling  in  their  country,  so  long  as  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  Lhasa  was  avoided,  and  provided  the  traveller  had  some 
previous  knowledge  of  and  sympathy  with  the  Tibetan 
character  and  that  he  was  known  to  them. 

Had  the  opportunity  been  taken  advantage  of,  on  the 
conclusion  of  the  Lhasa  Treaty,  to  allow  a few  of  our  own 
picked  officers  to  travel  in  Tibet,  any  opposition  would 
have  died  a natural  death,  as  it  existed  only  amongst 
certain  members  of  the  priestly  hierarchy  and  the  higher 
officials  in  Lhasa.  The  common  people  invariably  wel- 
comed our  advent,  and  openly  expressed  the  hope  that 
they  were  to  come  under  our  jurisdiction.  Our  Govern- 
ment, instead  of  making  the  most  of  so  unique  an  opening, 
has,  by  the  most  incomprehensible  regulations  and  orders, 
emanating  from  London,  raised  an  insuperable  barrier 
against  any  fellow  countrymen  who  may  desire  to  travel 
in  Tibet,  while  foreigners,  whom  they  are  powerless  to 
keep  out,  are  given  every  possible  assistance  and  help. 
Hence,  notwithstanding  the  vast  expenditure  of  money, 
the  heavy  loss  of  life,  and  the  many  hardships  endured 
by  the  Lhasa  Mission  of  1904,  Tibet  has  again  become  an 
absolutely  closed  country  to  all  Englishmen.  In  addition, 
Government’s  unfortunate  subsequent  policy  has  been  the 
means  of  handing  over  the  Tibetans,  bound  hand  and 
foot,  to  the  Chinese,  and  all  Tibetan  officials  are  now 
obliged  by  their  virtual  masters,  the  Chinese,  to  enforce 
the  Chinese  traditional  policy  of  exclusion  of  all  Europeans. 

Up  to  now  I had  been  unaware  that  wild  gooseberries 
were  to  be  found  in  the  Himalayas,  but  on  this  march  I 
came  across  them  for  the  first  time,  higher  up  in  flower  and 
lower  down  in  fruit.  The  people  eat  the  fruit,  but  I fancy 
it  would  be  very  sour,  and  not  like  the  small  wild  yellow 
gooseberry  found  in  Scotland. 

200 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 

Accompanied  by  the  Tongsa,  I visited  the  Karchu 
Monastery,  which  is  situated  on  a very  picturesque  ridge 
overlooking  the  gorge  where  the  Kuru-chhu  commences  to 
cut  its  way  through  the  Himalayas,  but  beyond  a very  good 
view  of  Kulu-Kangri  there  was  nothing  much  to  be  seen. 

I also  visited  some  hot  springs,  and  near  them  some 
old  gold-diggings,  which  were  said  to  have  been  worked  as 
recently  as  twelve  years  before  my  visit  by  the  late  Jong- 
pen,  who  imported  workmen  from  Tod,  in  Tibet,  for  the 
purpose.  They  were  situated  in  an  old  river-bed,  and  are 
now  quite  abandoned,  and  I should  think  very  unlikely  to 
be  worth  making  any  future  attempt  to  develop.  I washed 
some  of  the  sand,  but  found  nothing. 

Lhakhang-jong  is  a very  dilapidated  building,  very 
dirty,  and  worth  nothing  either  as  a residence  or  a place 
of  defence,  and  of  no  interest.  The  Khomthing  Lhakhang, 
or  temple,  is  also  very  uninteresting,  although  it  had  one 
curious  feature.  In  one  of  the  rooms  a large  apricot-tree 
grew  through  the  roof,  and  was  called  for  some  reason, 
though  why  I could  not  make  out,  the  “ Mermaid  Tree.” 
But  in  the  monastery  itself  there  was  nothing. 

The  fields  round  the  fort  were  brilliant  with  the  delicate 
green  of  young  corn,  just  beginning  to  sprout,  and  the 
hedges  were  full  of  wild  roses  and  pink  and  white  spirea, 
while  between  the  fields  were  planted  lines  of  apricot-trees 
full  of  blossom,  making  a lovely  picture.  The  crop  of 
fruit  is  so  plentiful  that,  in  addition  to  carrying  on  a large 
trade  in  dried  fruit,  the  people  feed  their  cattle  on  apricots 
in  winter ; but  those  I tasted  were  not  very  appetising. 

With  all  this  beauty  the  climate  of  Lhakhang  is  abomin- 
able ; situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kuru  gorge,  a cold, 
damp,  violent  wind  never  ceases  blowing,  while  the  sun  at 
the  same  time  is  extremely  hot : but  even  with  this  dis- 
advantage the  two  days’  rest  was  very  welcome.  The 
export  trade  consists  chiefly,  in  addition  to  dried  apricots, 
of  dried  mutton,  sheep-skins,  wool,  and  salt,  while  rice, 
madder,  and  stick  lac  are  imported  from  Bhutan. 

201 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

A good  road  through  the  Kuru  Valley  would  be  sure 
soon  to  become  a popular  trade  route,  as  it  would  be  a 
direct  outlet  from  Tibet  to  the  plains,  with  no  snow-passes 
to  cross,  and  from  Lhakhang  onwards  to  Tibet  the  present 
road  is  reported  to  be  very  easy.  The  few  miles  I traversed 
were  broad  and  much  used.  The  section  between  Lhuntsi 
and  Lhakhang  would  be  very  difficult  to  negotitate,  as  it 
passes  through  an  immense  gorge,  which  would  require 
a great  deal  of  blasting  as  well  as  bridging ; and  as  things 
have  now  turned  out,  it  is  very  unlikely  such  a road  will 
be  made  for  many  generations,  if  ever,  though  at  the  time  of 
my  visit  it  was  still  within  the  range  of  possibility  that 
the  Governments  of  India  and  Tibet  would  co-operate  to 
improve  trade  routes  between  the  two  empires. 

Roads  already  run  from  Lhakhang  to  Nagartsi  and 
Chetang,  across  country  in  which  there  is  said  to  be  much 
good  grazing  and  many  flocks  of  sheep,  and  consequently 
there  should  be  a quantity  of  wool  to  be  bought.  The 
route  from  Tawang  also  taps  this  country. 

After  leaving  Lhakhang  I crossed  the  two  branches 
of  the  Kuru-chhu  just  before  they  enter,  as  one  stream, 
the  mouth  of  this  magnificent  gorge.  The  road  wound 
along  the  side  of  the  hills  some  thousand  feet  above  the 
river,  and  was  in  some  places  very  pretty,  with  hedges  of 
yellow  and  red  roses,  spirea,  gooseberry  and  currant- 
bushes,  apricot-trees,  and  a sort  of  blackthorn,  but  for  the 
greater  part  it  was  uninteresting.  The  villagers  en  route 
turned  out  to  meet  me,  and  burnt  incense,  and  at  Dur  they 
had  a tent  pitched  for  my  lunch,  and  presented  me  with 
chang,  the  native  liquor,  milk,  and  eggs.  I camped  at 
Mug  (11,650  feet),  in  a grove  of  poplars,  where  a second 
messenger  arrived  from  the  Tongsa’s  sister  with  another 
letter  of  welcome  and  more  rice,  eggs,  and  butter. 

From  this  village  a road  branches  off  over  the  Monla- 
Kachung-la  Pass  to  Bya-gha,  but  my  way  led  me  to  Singhi- 
jong,  still  in  Tibet.  A very  hard  march  took  me  first 
down  to  the  river,  some  thousand  feet  below  camp,  and 
202 


TU  WA-JONG 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 

then  np  again  over  a spur  to  Singhi-jong,  a climb  of  1740 
feet  in  the  full  glare  of  the  sun;  then  down  again  to 
a side  stream,  and  again  up  to  Myens-la  (14,800  feet), 
and  at  last  to  my  camp,  pitched  in  a small  side  valley  at 
Tashichukar  (14,480  feet).  I found  the  sun  very  trying 
climbing  the  southern  slopes,  but  on  reaching  camp  it 
clouded  over,  and  the  afternoon  was  wet  and  windy  and 
very  cold — the  coldest  camp  I had  yet  been  in  on  this 
expedition. 

Singhi-j  ong  is  a deserted  fort  in  ruins,  situated  on  a fine 
rock,  and  the  Jongpen  does  not  live  there,  but  prefers  a 
house  at  its  foot  less  pretentious  and  more  comfortable. 
He  was  an  old  acquaintance  of  mine,  whom  I had  met  in 
Lhasa,  where  he  was  the  official  who  issued  rations  to  the 
Mission  camp.  About  a year  before  my  visit  he  had  been 
transferred  to  Singhi,  where  I now  met  him.  We  had  to 
change  transport  here  ; but  everything  was  in  readiness,  so 
it  did  not  take  long.  I had  a fine  view  of  some  high  snows 
looking  up  the  valley  on  leaving  Singhi-jong. 

The  Tibetans  were  not  nearly  so  ready  to  be  vaccinated 
as  the  Bhutanese,  probably  because  there  had  been  no 
recent  outbreak  of  small-pox,  and  very  few  came  forward, 
while  in  Bhutan  the  numbers  already  done  had  reached  800. 
From  Tashichukar  I made  a long  march  and  pushed  right 
on  to  Lhalung,  the  Bhutan  monastery,  passing  Tuwa-jong 
on  the  way.  The  road  took  me  first  straight  down  to  the 
river,  a descent  of  2400  feet,  and  then  straight  up  the 
other  side  in  short  zigzags,  which  were  very  trying.  It 
then  wound  round  the  hillside  for  some  distance  and  again 
dropped  down  to  the  stream  at  Tuwa-jong  (13,000  feet). 
If  I had  only  been  a little  earlier  in  the  season  all  these 
ups  and  downs  might  have  been  avoided,  as  during  the 
winter  there  is  a path  along  the  bed  of  the  stream ; but  the 
glaciers  had  begun  to  melt,  and  the  rivers  were  consequently 
in  flood,  so  it  was  impracticable. 

Tuwa-jong  I found  to  be  a fine  building,  in  Tibetan 
style,  with  the  fort  on  the  top  of  a very  steep  rock,  and 
203 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

the  monastery  below,  also  a fine  building.  The  Tibetan 
and  Bhutanese  Jongs  have  a general  resemblance  in  their 
architecture,  particularly  remarkable  in  the  slope  given 
to  the  walls,  but  in  detail  are  not  very  similar.  In 
Bhutan  the  courtyards  are  much  larger,  and  the  lavish  use 
of  timber  gives  the  buildings  a different  aspect,  especially 
the  sloping  shingle  roofs  invariably  used  there,  whereas  in 
Tibet  the  roofs  are  generally  flat.  The  Tuwa  buildings 
are  all  quite  new,  as  they  were  rebuilt  after  the  earth- 
quake of  1897.  A little  before  reaching  the  Jong  we  found 
a tent  pitched,  and  the  Nerpa,  or  steward,  of  the  Jongpen 
waiting  with  refreshments.  He  was  very  anxious  that 
I should  break  my  journey  at  Tuwa,  and  the  same  request 
was  renewed  when  I reached  the  Jong  by  the  Jongpen  and 
the  lamas,  but  I told  them  that,  if  possible,  and  if  they 
could  make  the  necessary  arrangements  for  transport,  I 
was  anxious  to  reach  Lhalung  that  day.  They  had  a 
camp  pitched  ready  below  the  building,  in  a side  valley, 
out  of  the  wind,  in  a charming,  fresh  green  garden,  and  the 
invitation  was  very  tempting,  and  I should  have  been  glad 
to  give  pleasure  to  my  kindly  hosts,  but  I could  not  manage 
it.  All  I could  do  was  to  stop  and  partake  of  the  refresh- 
ments they  had  provided  while  the  transport  was  being 
changed,  and  the  arrangements  were  so  good  that  by  the 
time  we  had  finished  luncheon  all  the  loads  had  gone  on.  I 
can  only  repeat  again  that  I received  nothing  but  the  most 
unvarying  kindness  and  attention  from  every  one  through- 
out my  journey  in  this  part  of  Tibet,  and  that  every  pains 
was  taken,  by  officials  and  villagers  alike,  to  make  things 
easy  and  comfortable  for  me ; and  at  no  time,  during  the 
years  I have  served  on  the  frontier,  when  I have  been 
brought  into  contact  with  Tibetans,  have  I had  any  dis- 
courtesy shown  me. 

I was  told  that  Dekila,  the  widow  of  Norbu  Sring,  is 
still  imprisoned  at  Tuwa-jong,  but  as  I only  heard  this  at 
Lhalung  I had  no  opportunity  of  making  inquiries  or 
trying  to  see  her.  Norbu  Sring  was  brother  to  the  late 
204 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 
Tengay-Ling,  Regent  of  Tibet.  Tengay-Ling  was  accused 
of  practising  sorcery  on  the  Delai  Lama,  and  consequently 
seized,  and  later  put  to  death,  while  his  brother,  Norbu 
Sring,  a layman,  was  also  cruelly  killed.  His  widow, 
Dekila,  who  was  famous  throughout  Tibet  for  her  beauty, 
and  is  a member  of  the  highly  respectable  Doring  family 
of  Lhasa,  and  some  relation  to  the  Maharani  of  Sikhim, 
was  arrested  on  the  same  charge,  and,  after  being  cruelly 
scourged  through  Lhasa,  was  condemned  to  imprisonment 
for  life  in  Tuwa-jong.  She  is  said  to  be  even  now  in  chains 
in  a cell  on  the  outskirts  of  the  Jong,  and  had  I known 
beforehand  I should  have  made  an  effort  to  see  the  un- 
fortunate woman  and  ascertain  if  nothing  could  be  done 
for  her.  The  man  who  volunteered  this  information 
had  heard  of  the  release  of  several  State  prisoners,  and 
especially  of  the  cases  of  my  Lachung  men  and  the  friend 
of  Sarat  Chunder  Das,  during  the  Lhasa  Expedition,  and 
seemed  to  think  the  Indian  Government  might  extend  a 
helping  hand ; but  I am  afraid  the  only,  and  very  unlikely, 
chance  for  the  poor  lady  might  have  been  my  personal 
influence  with  the  J ongpen ; and  even  then  he  was  respon- 
sible to  the  authorities  at  Lhasa  for  her  safe  custody, 
and  could  not,  I fear,  on  his  own  initiative  have  done 
anything  for  her. 

About  two  miles  below  Tuwa-jong  the  valley  opens 
out ; so  far  it  is  a deep-cut  gorge,  impossible  to  traverse 
except  during  the  winter  months,  when  temporary  bridges 
are  thrown  across  the  stream  which  save  many  miles  in 
actual  distance  and  many  thousands  of  feet  in  ascent  and 
descent,  but  of  course  at  this  time  of  the  year  I had  to 
follow  the  longer  route.  On  leaving  the  Jong  the  road 
runs  along  the  bottom  of  the  valley — cultivated  wherever 
water  can  be  found  for  irrigation,  but  elsewhere  a typical 
Tibetan  valley,  an  arid  wilderness  of  stone  and  sand,  hot, 
bare,  and  dusty,  with  a howling  wind  always  blowing, 
making  it  very  unpleasant.  The  ride  up  this  unpre- 
possessing valley  in  the  face  of  the  afternoon  sun  was  a 
205 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

hot  one,  but  I was  well  repaid  by  the  reception  I received 
at  Lhalung,  where  I was  met  by  the  Tulku,  or  Avatar, 
a nephew  of  Sir  Ugyen’s,  and  the  monks  and  headmen 
of  Lhalung.  They  conducted  me  to  a charming  camp, 
pitched  in  the  monastery  gardens,  where  it  was  pleasant 
to  sit  on  the  grass  in  the  cool  shade  of  the  willows,  out  of 
the  glare,  and  sheltered  from  the  violence  of  the  wind  by 
the  high  wall  surrounding  the  garden.  It  was  a delightful 
place  in  which  to  rest  and  do  nothing,  and  at  the  urgent 
request  of  Sir  Ugyen  I remained  with  him  for  two  days, 
taking  photographs  of  the  buildings  and  of  the  Tulku  and 
others,  and  receiving  deputations  from  the  Jongpen  of 
Tuwa-jong,  the  Avatar  and  the  lamas  of  Lhalung,  as  well 
as  the  headmen  of  these  places.  One  day  the  Tulku  enter- 
tained me  at  lunch,  and  afterwards  we  witnessed  a Tibetan 
dance  which  was  quite  new  to  me.  Most  of  the:  per- 
formers wore  very  little  clothing — quite  a new  experience,  as 
in  all  the  Tibetan  dances  I have  seen  the  dancers  are  rather 
overburdened  with  heavy  garments.  I also  spent  much 
of  my  time  with  the  Tongsa,  discussing  the  affairs  of 
Bhutan  and  talking  over  his  projects  for  improvements, 
roads,  developments,  &c.,  all  very  interesting  subjects; 
and  I often  wonder  now  how  he  is  carrying  out  all  his 
schemes,  and  wish  I had  been  able  to  set  him  a little  fur- 
ther on  the  road  towards  their  accomplishment  before 
my  retirement.  At  Sir  Ugyen’s  request  I left  the  vac- 
cinator to  accompany  him  to  Bya-gha,  and  then  to  travel 
through  Bhutan  before  returning  to  Sikhim.  I also  left 
my  plant-collector,  as  it  was  still  too  early  in  the  season 
to  find  plants  or  flowers  in  the  high  plateaux  of  Tibet. 
He  made  a very  good  collection  of  plants,  both  on  this 
occasion  and  when  he  accompanied  me  on  the  first  Bhutan 
Mission,  and  they  were  duly  forwarded  to  the  Botanical 
Gardens  in  Calcutta,  but  up  to  the  present  date  I have 
had  no  news  of  any  classification  having  been  made. 
The  delay  seems  regrettable,  as  there  may  have  been  some 
new  and  interesting  plants  among  them.  I certainly  saw 
206 


INTERIOR  OF  LHALUNG  MONASTERY 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 
many  plants  which  do  not  occur  in  Sikhim,  where  every 
valley  and  hill  has  been  thoroughly  explored. 

The  following  day  I continued  my  journey  up  the 
valley,  and  camped  at  Lung,  passing  en  route  the  Guru 
Lhakhang,  a very  old  building,  surrounded  by  ancient 
poplars,  but  in  itself  uninteresting.  On  this  march  I 
discovered  that  the  main  stream  of  the  Monass  takes 
its  rise  in  the  great  amphitheatre  of  snow-mountains, 
averaging  24,000  feet  in  height,  round  Kulu-Kangri. 
It  rises  from  some  large  glaciers,  and  is  exceedingly 
muddy,  the  water  a thick  yellowish-red  colour.  At 
Lyateoh,  where  my  transport  was  changed,  the  main 
valley  turned  to  the  west,  although  the  river  containing 
by  far  the  most  water  came  in  from  the  south.  The  quan- 
tity of  silt  brought  down  is  very  great,  and  shows  what 
enormous  disintegration  is  in  progress.  I was  particularly 
struck  by  the  number  of  ruined  villages  I passed  on  this 
march. 

In  the  hills  round  Lung  there  is  some  fine  ovis  ammon 
ground,  and  I saw  several  large  flocks.  They  were  extra- 
ordinarily tame,  and  allowed  me  to  walk,  across  the  open, 
to  within  thirty  or  forty  yards,  and  then  only  moved  slowly 
away.  I first  saw  them  from  my  bed.  I awoke  early, 
and  on  looking  out  I saw  eight  grazing  on  the  hillside  not 
half  a mile  away.  They  have  never  been  shot  at,  which 
accounts  for  their  tameness. 

A path  from  Lung,  used  by  yaks  and  their  drivers, 
leads  over  the  snow  to  the  head-waters  of  the  branches  of 
the  Mo-chhu,  and  is  said  not  to  be  a very  difficult  one. 
My  route,  however,  took  me  up  the  valley  and  over  the 
Ta-la  Pass  (17,900  feet),  the  watershed  between  India 
and  the  Pho-mo-chang-thang  Lake  basin,  which  has  no 
outlet,  then  along  high,  rolling  downs,  and,  after  passing 
three  small  lakes,  came  to  the  large  plain  at  the  head  of 
the  Pho-mo-chang-thang  Lake  itself.  The  lake  appears 
to  be  receding  to  a certain  extent,  and  I think  probably 
this  is  chiefly  owing  to  the  large  quantities  of  silt  brought 
207 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

down  by  an  unnamed  river  from  the  glaciers,  and  its  con- 
sequent filling  up  on  the  west  side.  We  crossed  the  plain 
in  a violent  hailstorm,  and  camped  in  the  middle  of  it  on 
a bare  and  exposed  yak  station  called  Sagang,  in  sight  of 
the  lake.  The  Tongsa  accompanied  me  to  the  top  of 
the  pass,  where  he  took  his  leave,  presenting  me  with 
scarves  of  different  colours,  a pretty  custom  which  is  both 
picturesque  and  at  the  same  time  expressive  of  the  most 
cordial  good  feeling. 

From  the  downs  at  Sagang  I had  a clear  view  of  the 
snow-hills  which  form  the  boundary  between  Bhutan  and 
Tibet,  with  the  country  to  the  north  of  the  hills  clearly  to 
be  seen  and  the  courses  of  the  rivers  quite  plainly  visible. 
Fortunately,  some  of  the  dopkas  (yak  herdsmen)  had 
pitched  tents,  which  were  most  welcome,  as  there  was 
a very  strong,  cold  wind  blowing,  and,  the  march  having 
been  a long  one,  our  things  did  not  arrive  till  late.  En 
route  we  saw  some  ovis  ammon,  but  did  not  shoot  any. 
We  had  to  cross  the  large  river  which  takes  its  rise  on  the 
north  of  the  snows  forming  the  boundary  between  Bhutan 
and  Tibet  and  runs  into  the  west  end  of  the  lake,  and 
had  some  difficulty  in  finding  a ford,  as  the  bed  was  full 
of  quicksands,  but  eventually  a herdsman  showed  us  one, 
and  also  told  us  there  were  only  two  places  at  which  it 
could  be  crossed  in  safety.  This  man  came  from  a very 
large  encampment  of  herdsmen,  who  had  hundreds  of 
yaks  and  a few  sheep  in  their  care.  They  were  extremely 
hospitable,  spread  carpets  for  us  to  sit  on,  and  gave  us 
fresh  milk  and  Tibetan  tea,  as  well  as  parched  barley.  It 
was  a curious  sight  to  watch  the  milking  of  the  yaks,  the 
method  being,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  peculiar,  and  one  I 
had  not  seen  or  heard  of  elsewhere  in  Tibet. 

I made  a very  early  start  from  Sagang,  and  after  climbing 
600  feet  came  to  the  watershed  between  the  lake  basin  and 
the  Nyeru-chhu.  These  hills  are  nearly  all  rounded,  with 
very  few  precipices,  and  are  evidently  much  frequented  by 
both  ovis  ammon  and  burhel,  for  I saw  numerous  fine 
208 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  EASTERN  BHUTAN 
heads  lying  about.  The  natives  explained  this  by  saying 
that  in  winter  wolves  attack  and  kill  the  males,  who  in 
consequence  of  the  weight  of  their  heavy  horns  cannot  get 
quickly  over  the  ground  and  out  of  reach.  From  the  ridge 
I followed  a stream  which  took  me  the  whole  way  to  the 
Nyeru  Valley,  but  which  is  not  marked  on  the  map  Ryder 
made  at  the  time  of  the  Lhasa  Mission.  This  may  be 
accounted  for  by  the  very  narrow  gorge  through  which 
it  passes  on  entering  the  valley.  The  Bhutan  boundary 
runs  right  up  to  the  head  of  the  Nyeru  Valley,  and  from 
Nelung  the  Wagya-la,  over  which  there  is  a trade  route 
to  Bhutan,  can  be  seen.  We  had  a long,  weary  march 
across  a flat  plain  in  hail  and  rain  before  reaching  Nelung, 
where  tents  had  fortunately  been  pitched  by  the  head- 
man, and  very  welcome  they  were,  as  all  our  things  did  not 
come  up  till  past  eight  o’clock,  and  it  continued  to  rain 
and  blow  hard  nearly  all  night,  though  it  was  fairly  fine 
towards  morning. 

I discovered  that  the  Nyeru-chhu  takes  its  rise  in  the 
high  snows  not  far  from  the  source  of  the  Kuru-chhu. 
It  breaks  through  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  lake 
basin  and  the  Nyeru  Valley  under  the  snow,  and  then 
takes  a right-angle  bend  to  the  north  and  comes  down 
past  Nyeru. 

All  the  valleys  I have  seen  to  the  north  of  the  water- 
shed— viz.,  from  Eastern  Bhutan  to  some  distance  west  of 
Sikhim — appear  to  have  at  some  remote  period  been  much 
more  densely  populated  than  at  present.  At  every  turn  I 
came  on  ruins  of  habitations  and  remains  of  old  irrigation 
channels ; and  overcrowding  may  possibly  account  for  this 
migration  over  the  Himalayas  into  the  comparatively  hot 
valleys  of  Bhutan,  in  which  no  Tibetan  would  willingly 
settle,  though  he  might  be  forced  by  circumstances  to 
do  so.  This  also  raises  the  interesting  question  of  the 
former  climate  of  these  parts.  I think  there  is  no  doubt 
that  there  must  have  been  considerably  more  rain,  and 
everything  appears  to  support  this  view — the  receding 

209  o 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

glaciers  and  diminishing  streams,  also  the  fact  that  all 
the  lakes  in  this  part  of  Tibet  show  a large  amount  of  con- 
traction, and  to  all  appearances  are  still  decreasing.  On 
the  Yam-dok-tsho  several  distinct  old  shores  can  be 
traced  running  round  the  lake,  some  quite  sixty  feet  above 
the  present  lake  level.  Pho-mo-chang-thang,  Kala-tsho, 
Bam-tsho,  and  Rhum-tsho  are  all  drying  up.  What  is 
the  cause  of  this  ? Is  it  the  gradual  elevation  of  the 
Himalayas,  shutting  out  the  monsoon  current,  or  has  the 
monsoon  current  itself  diminished  ? The  migration  south- 
ward might  also  be  accounted  for  by  diminished  rainfall, 
the  people  being  no  longer  able  to  support  themselves 
and  their  cattle  on  the  produce  of  the  land,  and  being 
obliged  to  seek  new  and  more  productive  country. 

It  is  a very  interesting  subject,  but  requires  more 
time  and  research  to  be  devoted  to  it  than  I have  been 
able  to  give. 

At  Nelung  I lost  one  of  my  favourite  mules,  Kitty, 
whom  I had  had  for  many  years,  and  who  had  served 
me  well.  She  must  have  contracted  a chill  crossing  in  the 
hail,  for  soon  after  reaching  camp  she  was  taken  ill  with 
colic,  and  nothing  I could  do  was  of  any  use,  and  she  died 
during  the  night. 

From  Nelung  my  route  took  me  over  an  easy  pass  to 
the  Phari-Gyantse  road.  At  Gyantse  I spent  a few  days 
making  a visit  of  inspection  to  Bailey,  the  officiating 
British  Trade  Agent  and  my  Assistant  Political  Officer. 
The  post  is  a lonely  and  isolated  one,  and  the  work  was 
none  too  pleasant,  owing  to  the  attitude  of  the  Chinese, 
who  did  all  in  their  power  to  be  obstructive,  and  used 
every  possible  means  to  prevent  the  Tibetans  having  any 
direct  intercourse  with  us;  but  things  on  the  whole  were 
fairly  satisfactory.  From  Gyantse  I returned  by  the 
ordinary  route  to  Chumbi,  and  thence  to  Gangtak,  thus 
bringing  to  an  end  my  exploration  in  Bhutan. 


210 


CHAPTER  XVIII 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

Severe  weather.  Shau.  A frozen  torrent.  Dug-gye-jong. 

A visit  to  Paro  Ta-tshang  Monastery.  Sang-tog-peri.  Paro- 
jong  burnt  down.  Arrival  at  Poonakha.  The  Tongsa’s 
band. 

My  second  mission  to  Bhutan  was  undertaken  at  the 
invitation  of  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk  to  be  present  as  his 
guest  and  as  representative  of  the  British  Government 
at  his  installation  as  Hereditary  Maharaja  of  Bhutan. 

I left  Gangtak  on  November  25,  1907,  accompanied 
by  Major  Rennick,  of  the  Intelligence  Branch,  and  Mr. 
Wilton,  C.M.G.,  of  His  Majesty’s  Consular  Service.  Mr. 
Campbell,  my  Assistant  Political  Officer,  I had  sent  on 
ahead  to  Chumbi  to  make  arrangements  for  coolies  and 
transport,  and  Captain  Hyslop,  who  was  accompanying 
me  at  the  special  request  of  Sir  Ugyen,  had  not  yet 
arrived,  and  was  to  follow,  making  forced  marches  in 
order  to  catch  us  up. 

I travelled  over  the  usual  route  via  Karponang  and 
Chongu,  and  arrived  without  any  misadventure  the  third 
day  in  Chumbi,  where  I halted.  Several  days  were 
occupied  in  arranging  for  the  escort,  which  consisted  of 
twenty-five  men  of  the  62nd  Punjabis,  under  a native 
officer,  a hospital  assistant,  and  the  usual  following  of  dooly- 
bearers,  &c. 

Unfortunately  I contracted  a chill,  and  was  obliged  to 
remain  in  bed  for  a few  days,  so  I sent  Campbell  on  with 
211 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

the  escort  and  heavy  baggage  to  Phari,  and  Hyslop  having 
by  this  time  arrived,  we  left  Chumbi  on  December  2. 
Rennick  and  I went  straight  to  Gautsa,  while  Wilton  and 
Hyslop  camped  at  Lingmathang  in  hopes  of  getting  a 
shau  of  which  my  shikari  had  brought  us  news.  It  was  a 
very  cold  day  when  we  started,  with  the  thermometer  at 
zero  and  the  high  wind  that  always  blows  up  the  valley, 
and  this  shortly  turned  into  a veritable  hurricane,  so  the 
two  in  tents  had  a bad  night  of  it.  The  wind  was  so 
strong  they  could  hardly  keep  the  tent  standing ; they 
were  nearly  frozen ; and,  worst  of  all,  after  having 
undergone  all  these  discomforts,  they  could  see  no  sign 
of  the  shau,  although  my  orderly,  Purboo,  said  he  caught 
a glimpse  of  one  close  to  the  camp.  The  shau  which  the 
shikari  reported  having  seen  was  apparently  a magni- 
ficent specimen,  with  splendid  horns,  and  was  known  to 
many  natives  by  a small  white  patch  on  its  forehead. 
I should  very  much  have  liked  to  stay  and  stalk  him, 
but  I had  no  time  for  such  pleasures,  and  had  to  forego 
a chance  I shall  not  have  again. 

Wilton  returned  to  India  from  Lingmathang,  as  he  was 
obliged  to  meet  some  Chinamen  in  Calcutta,  and  Hyslop 
came  on  by  himself  to  rejoin  us  in  the  bungalow  at  Gautsa, 
where  we  were  waiting  for  him.  He  found  the  road  very 
bad  and  difficult,  as  the  wind  had  covered  it  with  the 
trunks  of  fallen  trees. 

We  in  the  bungalow  had  not  fared  much  better  than 
the  men  in  tents.  We  were  a good  deal  higher,  and  the 
cold — 26°  below  zero — was  so  intense  that  the  river,  usually 
a roaring  torrent,  was  frozen  absolutely  solid  during  the 
night,  and  there  was  not  a sound  of  water  to  be  heard. 
It  was  very  curious  to  listen  to  it  gradually  becoming  less 
and  less  until  it  finally  became  silent.  All  our  provisions 
in  the  bungalow,  milk,  tea,  meat  even,  were  frozen  solid, 
and  no  fire  would  thaw  them  ; no  water  was  to  be  had,  only 
chunks  of  ice ; and  it  was  almost  impossible  to  keep  warm. 
The  wind  was  still  blowing  a hurricane,  and  the  mule- 
212 


INTERIOR  OF  DUG-GYE-JONG 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
drivers  refused  to  start,  saying  that  no  animal  could 
stand  against  the  force  of  the  wind  and  the  bitter  cold, 
so  we  were  perforce  obliged  to  remain  where  we  were  and 
listen  to  the  wind  roaring  through  the  trees. 

Such  a huricane  was  unknown  so  low  in  the  valley, 
and  the  mule-men  said  they  had  never  witnessed  any- 
thing like  it.  Fortunately  the  storm  was  unaccompanied 
by  snow,  for  the  sky  was  clear  and  the  sun  shining  all 
the  time ; otherwise  I think  it  would  really  have  been 
unbearable.  To  add  to  our  misfortunes,  Rennick  had 
gout,  and  the  cold  did  him  no  good. 

The  next  morning  the  wind  had  dropped,  and  we 
marched  across  the  plain,  meeting  the  Katzog  Kazi  on  the 
way,  to  Phari,  where  the  Jongpen  received  us,  in  perfect 
weather,  in  brilliant  sunshine,  which  in  sheltered  places 
was  almost  hot. 

At  Phari,  Bailey,  my  assistant  from  Gyantse,  was 
waiting  to  see  me,  and  Morgan,  of  the  62nd,  who  had 
taken  on  the  escort,  was  also  there,  and,  with  Campbell, 
we  made  a large  gathering  in  the  Dak  bungalow.  We  left 
Phari  on  December  5,  our  party  finally  consisting  of  myself, 
Rennick,  Hyslop,  Campbell,  Rai  Lobzang  Choden  Sahib, 
my  confidential  clerk,  twenty-five  sepoys  of  the  62nd, 
with  three  pipers  and  two  drummers  under  a native  officer, 
and  264  loads  of  baggage,  in  addition  to  a string  of  our 
own  ponies  and  mules,  personal  servants  and  dooly-bearers. 
It  sounds  a large  quantity  of  baggage,  but  what  with 
presents  and  rations  for  the  escort,  it  soon  mounted  up. 

The  day  was  beautiful,  and  we  very  soon  reached  the 
Temo-la  (16,500  feet),  about  three  miles  from  Phari,  and 
the  boundary  between  Tibet  and  Bhutan.  The  view 
from  the  summit  of  the  pass  looking  into  Bhutan  was  a 
very  fine  one.  Our  road  took  us  over  a fairly  easy  gradient 
for  a few  miles,  and  then  in  a sheltered  little  valley  I was 
met  by  the  Dug-gye  Jongpen  and  a party  of  men  with 
messages  from  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk  welcoming  my 
party  to  Bhutan.  The  Jongpen  had  brought  his  band 
213 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

of  drums,  gongs,  and  cymbals  with  him,  and  they  played 
whilst  we  were  partaking  of  the  refreshments  he  had 
provided  for  us.  For  a short  distance  further  on  the  road 
was  not  so  bad,  but  we  then  entered  a very  rocky  gorge, 
down  which  the  path  led  in  a series  of  short  zigzags, 
and  was  practically  a rough  stair,  with  enormous  steps 
from  rock  to  rock.  It  was  exceedingly  bad  going  both  for 
ourselves  and  the  mules,  and  was  quite  unrideable. 

Rennick,  who  could  hardly  put  foot  to  the  ground, 
was  carried  on  the  back  of  a Bhutanese  orderly,  with  two 
or  three  men  to  help,  and  as  he  weighs  over  fifteen 
stone  he  was  no  light  load.  However,  with  occasional 
knocks  against  projecting  rocks,  which  did  not  improve 
his  temper,  he  was  safely  deposited  at  the  bottom,  where 
mules  sent  by  the  Jongpen  and  the  Paro  Penlop  were 
waiting  for  us,  as  the  road  into  camp  was  said  to  be  quite 
good. 

On  our  way  through  the  gorge  we  stopped  for  lunch, 
but  none  of  us  enjoyed  it  much,  as  the  meat  was  frozen 
so  hard  that  it  was  quite  uneatable,  and  the  thermos  flask 
had  gone  wrong  and  our  long-looked-forward-to  hot  soup 
was  very  cold.  Whilst  lunching,  too,  we  dropped  the  top 
of  one  of  the  sparklet  bottles  amongst  some  stones,  and 
it  took  us  a long  time  to  find  it,  but  as  we  had  only  two 
bottles  with  us  we  could  not  afford  to  lose  it.  At  the 
lower  end  the  trees  became  very  fine,  and  we  passed  some 
enormous  specimens  of  larch  and  different  sorts  of  pine,  as 
well  as  rhododendron,  birch,  maple,  and  holly-oak. 

The  gaily  caparisoned  mules  and  ponies  were  waiting 
for  us  at  the  bottom,  with  equally  gaily  attired  attendants. 
We  each  mounted  one,  and  were  immediately  started  off 
at  a brisk  trot  over  slippery  boulders  and  round  projecting 
rocks  and  corners,  which  threatened  to  knock  our  knees 
to  pieces,  but  as  the  reins  on  the  animals  were  only  for 
ornament,  and  not  for  use,  we  had  to  submit  to  the  syces’ 
guidance  and  allow  ourselves  to  be  dragged  over  a horrible 
road.  The  ride  was  not  an  agreeable  one ; it  was  a marvel 
214 


BRIDGE  AT  SHANA 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
how  the  animals  kept  their  feet,  and  I should  often  have 
liked  to  get  off  and  walk  j but  my  dignity  was  at  stake, 
and  for  shame’s  sake  I had  to  stick  to  my  mount ; but 
I was  glad  when  the  camp  appeared  round  a corner  and 
I could  dismount  and  stretch  my  limbs.  Just  before 
entering  camp  our  band  was  augmented  by  more  musi- 
cians carrying  “ gyeling,”  or  silver  trumpets,  on  which 
they  performed  in  the  most  approved  style,  turning  to- 
wards you  as  they  blew  with  a great  sweep  and  flourish 
towards  the  sky. 

We  reached  our  camping-ground  about  3 p.m.,  a lovely 
open  spot  in  the  midst  of  larch  and  spruce,  with  mag- 
nificent views  both  up  and  down  the  valley,  and  found  our 
heavy  baggage  waiting  for  us.  Sorting  out  the  tents  was 
rather  a difficult  task,  as  the  coolies  had  thrown  every- 
thing in  a heap,  but  we  soon  got  things  into  fair  order,  and 
had  a roaring  fire  made  in  the  middle  of  the  camp,  round 
which  we  all  sat  and  made  ourselves  comfortable,  although 
a good  deal  of  our  baggage  did  not  arrive  till  midnight. 
We  had  come  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  and  the  march 
had  been  a long  and  trying  one  for  the  coolies.  We  had 
now  to  change  our  Phari  coolies  for  Bhutanese  transport, 
and  this,  in  addition  to  the  very  large  amount  of  baggage, 
necessitated  an  early  start ; but  my  Moonshi  Lobzang, 
who  was  splendid  at  this  sort  of  arrangement,  soon  got 
things  straight,  and  before  we  had  breakfast  the  bulk  of 
the  piles  of  baggage  had  disappeared  and  was  on  its  way 
to  our  next  halting-place. 

As  this  was  our  first  morning  in  Bhutan,  the  escort 
proper  thought  they  would  play  us  out  of  camp,  and, 
according  to  custom,  the  Bhutanese  did  the  same,  and 
the  combined  noise  was  awful.  Hyslop  was  very  critical 
about  the  62nd  pipers,  which  I suppose  was  natural,  but 
as  I am  not  a Highlander  I could  not  see  very  much 
difference  between  their  performance  and  the  real  thing. 

A little  below  the  camp  we  crossed  the  Pa-chhu  by  a 
very  picturesque  covered  cantilever  bridge.  The  march 
215 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

was  an  extremely  pretty  one,  as  it  took  us  the  whole  way 
through  forests  of  Pinus  excelsa,  with  here  and  there  some 
lovely  glades,  and  occasional  farmhouses  with  patches  of 
cultivation.  After  recrossing  the  river  we  soon  came  in 
sight  of  Dug-gye-jong,  which  I have  already  said  is  the 
most  beautifully  situated  Jong  I know,  and  which  looks 
well  from  whichever  side  it  is  approached.  On  arriving  at 
the  Jong  I was  received  by  the  Jongpen,  who  took  me  to 
his  guest-room,  where  the  walls  were  hung  with  bows  and 
arrows,  shields,  quaint  old  guns,  saddle-cloths,  and  curious 
bridles.  We  were  shown  to  chairs  on  a high  dais  by  the 
window,  and  an  excellent  omelette  with  spring  onions 
was  served,  accompanied  by  milk  and  warm  chang  to 
drink  and  some  very  good  walnuts.  We  stayed  in 
the  Jong  till  our  tents  were  pitched  and  comfortably 
settled,  when  we  moved  across.  The  day  had  been  warm, 
but  as  soon  as  the  sun  went  behind  the  hills  we  were  glad 
to  put  on  great-coats  and  to  sit  round  a good  fire.  We 
halted  at  Dug-gye  for  a couple  of  days,  and  sorted  out  our 
stores,  managing  to  reduce  them  by  a few  loads.  Some  of 
the  party  went  out  after  pheasants,  but  saw  very  few, 
while  I enjoyed  having  a day  off  and  took  some  good 
photographs. 

The  second  day  we  made  an  expedition  to  the  Paro 
Ta-tshang  Monastery,  one  of  the  holiest  monasteries  in 
Bhutan,  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley,  about 
3000  feet  up.  The  road  was  reported  to  be  very  bad,  and 
it  certainly  was,  and  I was  glad  I had  not  brought  my  own 
animals,  but  had  borrowed  mules  from  the  Jongpen  for  all 
our  party.  The  road  to  the  top  of  the  spur  was  very  steep, 
with  frozen  slippery  patches  where  it  was  shady  and  very 
hot  in  the  sun.  It  ran  in  one  place  in  a narrow  path 
across  a precipice,  with  a tremendous  drop  below,  and 
in  another  became  a series  of  steep  stone  steps.  On 
reaching  the  top  of  the  ridge  we  first  came  in  sight  of  the 
monastery  buildings,  grouped  on  an  almost  perpendicular 
hillside  in  the  most  picturesque  manner.  The  main 
216 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

temple  is  erected  on  what  is  practically  a crack  in  a per- 
pendicular rock  over  2000  feet  in  height,  and  along  the 
crack  there  are  a few  more  subsidiary  buildings.  Each 
building  is  two  stories  high,  and  is  painted,  like  all  monas- 
teries, a dull  light  grey  on  the  lower  story,  with  a broad 
band  of  madder-red  above,  and  shingle  roofs,  on  the  top 
of  which  are  gilded  canopies.  It  was  unquestionably  the 
most  picturesque  group  of  buildings  I had  seen.  Every 
natural  feature  in  the  landscape  had  been  taken  advan- 
tage of,  and  beautiful  old  trees  clinging  to  the  rocks  were 
in  just  the  right  position,  and,  combined  with  the  sheer 
precipices,  made  a magnificent  picture. 

We  appeared  to  be  quite  close,  but  were  really  sepa- 
rated from  the  buildings  by  an  almost  inaccessible  gorge. 
The  only  approach  was  by  a narrow  path  or  series  of  steps, 
where  a foot  misplaced  would  precipitate  you  to  the  bot- 
tom, quite  1000  feet,  across  a plank  bridge,  and  then  up 
another  series  of  little  steps  cut  in  the  rock.  The  native 
hospital  assistant  had  accompanied  our  party  so  far,  but 
this  was  too  much  for  him.  He  said  he  had  been  in  many 
bad  places,  but  never  such  a bad  one  as  this,  and  he  turned 
back  to  where  the  mules  were  waiting.  Natives,  as  a 
rule,  have  good  heads  and  do  not  mind  bad  roads,  so 
that  speaks  for  itself. 

Across  the  gorge  a rope  of  little  coloured  prayer-flags 
was  stretched,  which  fluttered  out  prayers  for  the  benefit 
of  those  who  had  put  them  up,  and  this  added  to  the 
picturesqueness  of  the  scene. 

On  reaching  the  top  of  our  ladder-like  path  a monk 
presented  us  each  with  a draught  of  beautifully  ice-cold 
water  in  a gourd  from  a holy  spring,  and  I can  imagine  it 
being  much  appreciated  on  a hot  day. 

The  most  holy  shrine,  the  sanctuary  round  which  all 
the  other  buildings  have  sprung  up,  was  situated  in  a 
cave.  The  cave  is  not  large,  and  in  it  was  a gilded  chorten 
filled  with  small  images  of  Buddha  in  copper-gilt,  each 
seated  on  a lotus,  and  many  of  very  good  design.  The 
217 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

other  buildings  were  for  the  most  part  ordinary  temples, 
with  frescoed  walls  and  altars,  with  butter  lamps  and 
incense  burning,  and  in  the  principal  one  there  was  a very 
fine  brass  Buddha  of  more  than  life  size,  surrounded  by  his 
satellites.  There  were  also  some  unusually  good  speci- 
mens of  dorjes  (thunderbolts)  and  purpas  (daggers),  both 
of  which  are  used  in  the  temple  services.  They  were  sup- 
posed to  be  of  holy  origin,  and  to  be  found  amongst  the 
solid  rocks  near  the  shrine,  but  I could  see  none,  although 
the  Bya-gha  Jongpen’s  son,  a nephew  of  the  Tongsa,  had 
taken  one  away  a few  weeks  previously.  My  servants 
were  very  anxious  to  secure  one  of  these  treasures,  and 
climbed  to  an  almost  inaccessible  point  in  the  rocks  in 
search  of  them,  but  without  success. 

In  the  centre  of  the  gorge,  perched  upon  a tiny  ledge, 
there  was  a hermit’s  dwelling,  which  could  only  be  reached 
by  climbing  a perpendicular  notched  pole  about  forty  feet 
high.  It  looked  diminutive  against  the  enormous  preci- 
pice, and  very  dreary  and  uninviting,  with  long  icicles 
hanging  from  the  roof,  and  we  did  not  attempt  to  visit  it. 
We,  however,  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  precipice  to  visit 
the  monastery  of  Sang-tog-peri,  which  was  most  pic- 
turesquely situated  on  a projecting  spur,  with  a fine  old  oak 
overhanging  the  entrance.  It  reminded  me  of  some  of  the 
Japanese  temples  in  Kioto  in  the  way  the  natural  features 
of  the  ground  had  been  utilised  to  beautify  the  entrance. 

There  was  a lovely  view  from  this  point.  Around 
us  on  all  sides  were  spurs  with  other  monasteries  and 
nunneries,  but  they  were  all  more  or  less  difficult  of  access, 
and  our  time  would  not  admit  of  further  delay,  so  we 
were  obliged  to  return  leaving  them  un visited.  It  was  a 
place  that  would  take  days  to  explore,  and  would  well 
repay  the  trouble,  especially  to  an  artist  in  search  of  the 
beautiful  and  unusual. 

We  returned  to  Dug-gye  by  another  road,  which  led 
down  an  easy  spur,  and  were  glad  to  rest  round  our  camp- 
fire, as  it  was  late  and  cold. 


218 


PARO  TAKTSANG  MONASTERY. 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

The  next  day  we  continued  our  journey  down  the 
valley  to  Paro,  and  were  met  half-way  by  Rai  Ugyen 
Kazi  Bahadur,  the  Bhutanese  Agent  in  India,  who  had 
been  unable  to  accompany  us,  and  had  travelled  from 
Chumbi  via  Hah.  He  was  accompanied  by  representa- 
tives of  the  Paro  Penlop,  bringing  scarves  of  welcome 
and  murwa,  as  well  as  fresh  mules  and  ponies  for  all  the 
party.  At  Paro  I was  received  by  the  Penlop  and  his 
newly  married  son,  quite  a lad,  but  I did  not  see  his 
bride. 

Paro-jong,  one  of  the  finest  forts  in  Bhutan,  which 
I have  already  described,  had  been  burnt  to  the  ground 
a few  weeks  previously,  and  was  now  a heap  of  blackened 
ruins,  with  only  a few  walls  standing  up  gaunt  and 
melancholy.  Although  the  ruins  were  still  smouldering, 
preparations  for  rebuilding  had  already  commenced,  and 
the  debris  was  being  removed  and  new  timber  collected, 
an  arduous  task  in  these  hills,  especially  as  enormous 
beams  are  used  in  all  Bhutanese  construction.  They  also 
use  a quite  unnecessary  amount,  and  make  their  floors 
far  too  thick. 

The  rebuilding  of  such  a fort  is  a very  great  tax  on 
the  people,  and  is  generally  borne  by  those  close  at  hand, 
but  in  this  case,  by  an  arrangement  of  the  Tongsa’s,  the 
whole  of  Bhutan  was  contributing  either  in  money  or 
labour,  thereby  saving  much  hardship  to  the  neighbouring 
villagers  and  expediting  the  work  of  reconstruction.  It 
was  rumoured  that  the  Jong  had  been  purposely  set  on 
fire,  but  I had  no  opportunity  of  finding  out  the  truth, 
though  a suspicious  circumstance  was  that  the  Penlop 
was  believed  to  have  succeeded  in  saving  his  own  pro- 
perty— no  inconsiderable  amount — while  all  Government 
property  was  destroyed.  The  Bhutanese  estimated  their 
loss  at  about  ij  lacs  of  rupees,  or  £12,000,  and  that  it 
would  take  four  years  to  rebuild  the  fort.  There  were 
flocks  of  pigeons  flying  about  the  ruins,  and  Hyslop  and 
I did  a little  shooting. 


219 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Our  next  camp  was  in  a village  called  Pemithang, 
crossing  on  our  way  the  Be-la  Pass  (10,500  feet),  from  where 
we  had  a magnificent  view  of  Chomolhari  to  the  north. 
The  road  was  fairly  good,  except  that  in  a few  places  it 
was  covered  with  ice  for  several  hundred  yards ; but  it 
was  easy  to  have  earth  thrown  on  it,  and  the  mules  crossed 
safely.  We  were  now  using  animals  provided  by  the 
Tongsa,  and  very  good  ones  they  were,  and  as  even  our 
servants  were  mounted  it  did  not  take  long  to  move  from 
one  camp  to  another. 

At  Chalimaphe  our  camp  was  again  pitched  round 
the  magnificent  old  weeping  cypress,  measuring  over 
fifty  feet  in  circumference  at  the  base.  Unfortunately 
I had  another  attack  of  fever,  and  had  to  halt  for  a 
couple  of  days.  It  was  bitterly  cold  at  night,  unusually 
so  for  that  elevation,  and  water  standing  by  my  bed  was 
frozen  solid. 

Hyslop  and  Campbell  utilised  the  time  by  visiting 
Tashi-cho-jong,  the  summer  capital.  They  found  that 
since  my  last  visit  the  Thimbu  Jongpen  had  built  a 
magnificent  new  gompa,  on  which  he  appears  to  have 
spent  a great  deal  of  money.  The  decorations  were  good, 
and  the  central  figure  of  a seated  Buddha  was  quite  twenty 
feet  high,  and  heavily  gilt.  Above  and  around  it  was  a 
canopy  and  background  of  golden  leaves,  and  the  figure 
itself  was  richly  studded  with  turquoises  and  precious 
stones.  On  either  side  were  attendant  female  figures, 
and  in  double  rows  more  than  life-sized  images  of  Bhu- 
tanese gods,  while  the  walls  were  hung  with  brocades 
and  embroidered  banners ; and  altogether  it  must  have 
cost  the  Thimbu  a good  deal. 

Next  morning  we  left  Chalimaphe  for  the  last  camp 
before  reaching  our  destination,  Poonakha.  The  morn- 
ings here  are  always  exceedingly  cold  until  the  sun  rises, 
when  one’s  wraps  become  oppressive,  but  the  ride  up 
the  valley  was  beautiful.  This  time  we  visited  the  fort  of 
Simtoka,  which  has  some  ancient  figures  and  carvings 
220 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
in  stone,  but  is  principally  interesting  on  account  of  its 
age.  From  the  pass,  the  Dokyong-la,  we  had  a magni- 
ficent view  of  the  snow  ranges  for  the  first  time,  as  on 
my  previous  visit  the  whole  range  was  never  visible,  but 
was  enveloped  in  clouds,  which  only  occasionally  lifted 
to  allow  the  different  peaks  to  be  seen.  It  was  a fine 
sight,  as  the  range  extended  on  the  right  as  far  as  some 
peaks  to  the  east  of  Kulu-Kangri  and  on  the  left  to 
Chomolhari. 

We  passed  our  old  camp  at  Lung-me-tsawe,  and 
moved  down  to  a warmer  spot  at  the  bottom  of  the 
hill,  where  we  camped  amongst  paddy-fields ; but  even 
here  a fire  was  most  welcome  as  soon  as  the  sun  went 
behind  the  hills.  From  this  a short  march  brought  us  to 
Poonakha,  and  about  four  miles  out  we  were  met  by  a 
deputation  from  the  Tongsa  Penlop.  He  had  sent  the 
Ghassa  Jongpen,  who  brought  scarves  of  welcome  and 
baskets  of  fruit,  oranges,  plantains,  and  persimmons,  in 
addition  to  sealed  wicker-covered  bamboos  filled  with 
murwa  and  chang.  There  were  at  least  five  or  six  gaily 
caparisoned  mules  for  each  of  us  to  ride,  sent  by  the  Tongsa, 
the  Poonakha  Jongpen,  Deb  Zimpon,  and  others,  so  we 
had  an  abundance  of  choice.  The  Tongsa  had  also  sent 
his  band,  which  consisted  of  six  men,  two  in  red,  who 
were  the  trumpeters,  while  the  remainder,  dressed  in  green, 
carried  drums  and  gongs.  The  mass  of  colours  of  every 
hue  was  most  picturesque,  and  we  made  a very  gay 
procession  as  we  started  off  again  towards  Poonakha. 
At  the  point  where  the  Jong  first  comes  in  view  a salute 
of  guns  was  fired,  more  retainers  met  us,  and  our  pro- 
cession was  joined  by  the  dancers.  The  band  and  dancers 
preceded  me  down  the  hill  playing  a sort  of  double  tam- 
bourine, and  twisting  and  twirling  to  the  beat  as  they 
descended  the  path.  The  procession  must  have  extended 
for  quite  half  a mile  along  the  hillside.  First  came  the 
pipes  and  drums  and  escort  of  the  62nd  Punjabis,  followed 
by  some  twenty  led  mules,  most  of  them  with  magnificent 
221 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

saddle-cloths,  with  their  syces  and  other  retainers ; next 
the  bodyguard  of  the  Tongsa,  about  twenty  men,  dressed 
in  beautiful  silks  and  brocades,  and  each  with  a yellow 
scarf.  The  band  and  dancers  followed  immediately  in  front 
of  myself  and  my  party,  and  we  again  were  followed  by 
my  orderlies  and  servants,  who  were  all  mounted  and 
wearing  their  scarlet  uniforms.  On  account  of  the  narrow 
path,  the  procession  had  to  proceed  in  single  file,  and  as 
we  gradually  wended  our  way  across  the  bridge,  through 
a corner  of  the  Jong  to  the  ground  occupied  by  my  camp 
on  my  visit  in  1905,  we  must  have  made  a brave  show 
for  the  country  folk,  who  had  flocked  out  in  thousands  to 
watch  our  arrival. 

At  the  camp  entrance  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  with  his 
council,  was  waiting  to  receive  us  as  we  dismounted,  and 
we  were  conducted  up  a path  covered  with  red  cloth  and 
between  lines  of  flowers  and  shrubs  in  pots  to  the  mess- 
house  they  had  built  for  us,  and  which  we  entered  with 
the  council,  all  others  being  excluded.  I was  shown  to  a 
seat  at  the  end  of  the  room,  with  the  Tongsa  and  his  council 
on  my  left  and  the  other  members  of  the  Mission  on  my 
right.  The  members  of  the  council  who  were  present 
were  the  Paro  Penlop,  the  Thimbu  Jongpen,  the  Poonakha 
Jongpen,  and  the  Deb  Zimpon,  the  other  two  members 
being  prevented  by  illness  from  attending.  As  soon  as 
we  were  seated  the  Tongsa,  followed  by  his  council,  pre- 
sented each  member  of  the  Mission  with  scarves,  and 
then  murwa,  tea,  and  other  refreshments  were  brought  in. 
I talked  for  some  little  time  to  the  Tongsa,  who  then 
went  round  to  each  of  the  party  welcoming  them  to  Bhutan 
and  saying  how  pleased  he  was  to  see  them. 

We  found  a very  comfortable  camp  laid  out  for  us, 
bearing  evident  traces  of  the  impressions  they  had  brought 
back  from  their  Calcutta  visit,  for  the  paths  were  edged 
with  pot  plants  and  red  cloth  was  laid  down.  We  each 
had  our  own  little  wooden  house,  with  one  room  and  a bath- 
room, raised  about  eighteen  inches  from  the  ground,  with 

222 


GROUP  AT  POONAKHA,  1908 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

shingle  roofs,  and  surmounted  by  small  coloured  prayer- 
flags.  Inside,  the  walls  were  covered  with  thin  white 
cloth,  with  a frieze  of  draped  coloured  silk.  The  windows 
were  like  small  port-holes,  of  course  without  glass,  but  with 
a^shutter  to  pull  across  at  night.  They  had  no  furniture,  but 
the  mess-house,  which  was  a big  room  about  twenty  feet 
square,  had  an  excellent  table  in  the  centre,  and  ten  wooden 
arm-chairs  which  would  have  done  credit  to  any  carpenter 
and  were  wonderful  productions  when  you  remember  that 
these  people  have  no  saws,  no  planes,  no  nails,  and  only 
the  roughest  of  tools.  The  walls  of  the  mess-house  were 
covered  with  wonderful  pictures  in  colour,  and  a large  red 
and  yellow  curtain  to  let  down  at  night.  The  table  also 
had  a white  cloth,  which  was  carefully  gummed  or  pasted 
on.  Outside  the  houses  were  painted  white,  and  a few 
steps  led  to  the  doors.  There  were  also  mat  huts  for  the 
servants,  and  an  excellent  kitchen.  The  enclosure  was 
quite  a hundred  yards  square,  surrounded  by  a fence,  and 
with  branches  of  pine-trees  planted  every  few  yards,  while 
the  stables  were  some  little  distance  off ; so  we  could  hardly 
have  been  more  comfortable. 

The  next  day  we  spent  in  settling  down  and  preparing 
for  the  ceremony  on  the  following  day.  I took  Hyslop 
with  me  and  made  an  inspection  of  the  hall  in  the  Jong 
where  the  ceremony  was  to  be  held.  It  was  very  suitable, 
as  it  was  a large  room  on  the  ground  floor,  with  a gallery 
running  all  round,  and  capable  of  holding  many  hundreds 
of  spectators,  and  by  removing  part  of  the  roof  they  could 
let  in  both  light  and  air.  At  the  main  entrance  to  the 
Jong  quite  a little  bazaar  was  in  progress,  cloth-merchants 
selling  Bhutanese  cloths  and  cheap  down-country  cottons 
and  sweetmeats,  and  pan-sellers  doing  a roaring  trade, 
as  the  Bhutanese  are  always  chewing  pan. 


223 


CHAPTER  XIX 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN — continued 


Installation^  Sir  Ugyen  as  Maharaja  of  Bhutan.  Presen- 
tation of  gifts.  Tea  ceremony.  Oath  of  allegiance.  Seal 
of  the  Dharma  Raja.  Chinese  influence  on  the  frontier. 
Christmas  Day.  Feeding  the  poor.  Return  of  escort.  Dis- 
cussion of  State  affairs  with  Maharaja  and  council.  I leave 
forjaigaon.  A Takin.  Inspection  of  frontier.  Wild  animals. 

December  17,  the  day  of  the  installation  of  the  Maha- 
raja, dawned  brightly  on  a scene  of  great  bustle  and 
preparation.  Punctually  at  ten  o’clock  our  procession 
started  for  the  Jong,  all  the  members  in  uniform,  pre- 
ceded by  the  pipes  and  drums  playing  “ Highland  Laddie,” 
and  followed  by  my  orderlies  in  their  picturesque  Sikhimese 
dress  and  the  escort  of  the  62nd.  At  the  entrance  to 
the  main  gateway  I was  received  by  the  Tongsa  Penlop 
and  the  council,  and  conducted  to  the  hall,  which  was 
gaily  decorated  with  floating  banners  of  brocade  and  gyalt- 
sen,  and  with  precious  religious  picture-scrolls  embroidered 
in  silk.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  room  was  a dais,  with 
three  wooden  thrones  covered  with  cushions  and  silk 
cloths,  and  in  front  of  each  a small  table  with  a cere- 
monial offering  of  fruit. 

The  Tongsa  occupied  the  centre  throne,  placing  me  on 
his  right  hand,  and  the  Lama  Khenpo,  Ta-tshang  Khenpo, 
on  his  left.  The  other  members  of  the  Mission  were  seated 
on  chairs  on  the  right  of  the  aisle,  the  members  of  council, 
headed  by  the  Paro  Penlop,  just  below  them  on  the  same 
side ; opposite,  on  the  left  of  the  aisle,  was  the  Tango  Lama 
224 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

and  other  representative  lamas,  in  their  gorgeous  robes 
of  office,  and  wearing  brocade  hats.  My  orderlies  and  the 
escort  were  lined  up  behind  my  seat  and  the  chairs  occu- 
pied by  the  other  members  of  the  Mission.  Facing  the 
Tongsa,  at  the  further  end  of  the  room,  was  an  altar  covered 
with  lighted  silver  butter  lamps.  The  broad  aisle  in  the 
centre  of  the  room  was  kept  clear,  but  all  other  available 
space  was  filled  by  a dense  throng  of  spectators,  monks 
and  laymen  on  either  side,  minor  Jongpens  and  officials  at 
the  lower  end.  In  the  gallery  a band  of  lama  musicians 
was  stationed,  and  another  dense  mass  of  interested  on- 
lookers, some  of  whom  even  invaded  the  roof  to  watch 
through  the  space  removed  for  light  and  air,  although 
they  were  repeatedly  driven  off  by  the  lamas. 

The  Tongsa  wore  a robe  of  blue  brocade,  with  the 
star  and  ribbon  of  the  K.C.I.E.  and  the  scarlet  shawl, 
the  distinguishing  mark  of  the  council. 

The  proceedings  were  opened  by  the  formal  presen- 
tation of  the  Durbar  gifts  from  the  Government  of  India, 
which  were  brought  in  and  placed  in  front  of  the  Tongsa 
Penlop.  This  was  followed  by  the  presentation  of  the 
Ta-tshang  Khenpo’s  gifts,  which  were  laid  on  the  floor  by 
his  attendants.  Next  came  the  Tango  Lama,  as  head 
and  representative  of  the  monastic  body.  Leaving  his 
mitre  and  silken  cope  in  his  place,  he  advanced  in  the 
ordinary  red  monk’s  garb  and  prostrated  himself  twice, 
then  returned  to  his  seat  and  resumed  his  vestments. 
After  the  Tango  Lama  came  the  councillors,  in  order  of 
seniority,  following  them  the  Jongpens  of  the  different 
Jongs  in  a body,  and  so  on  until  all  had  made  their  several 
obeisances  and  contributed  their  offering  to  the  mighty 
pile  of  silks,  cloths,  silver  coins,  and  gold-dust  in  the  centre 
of  the  hall.  The  Maharaja-elect  and  the  council  then 
presented  the  Mission  with  scarves. 

When  this  was  concluded  a procession  of  lamas,  with 
tea-pots  and  other  vessels  of  copper,  gold,  and  silver, 
appeared,  and  the  important  ceremony  of  tea-drinking, 
225  p 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

without  which  no  function  in  this  part  of  the  world  is 
complete,  was  gone  through.  Three  kinds  of  tea,  rice,  and 
pan  were  each  offered  in  turn,  and  in  conclusion  one  of 
the  chief  lamas  intoned  a long  grace. 

The  head  clerk  to  the  council  now  rose,  and  from  the 
centre  of  the  hall  read  out  from  a parchment  scroll  the 
oath  of  allegiance  to  the  new  Maharaja,  which  the  chiefs 
and  headmen  were  about  to  sign.  The  Ta-tshang  Khenpo 
from  a casket  produced  the  great  seal  of  the  Dharma 
Raja,  which  was  solemnly  affixed  to  the  document.  This 
was  a lengthy  proceeding,  carried  out  with  great  care,  and 
eagerly  watched  by  the  company.  The  seal  measures 
about  five  inches  square.  The  paper  was  first  most  carefully 
damped  with  warm  water,  then  the  seal  was  painted  over 
with  vermilion,  and  finally  the  impression  was  taken. 
Then  in  turn  the  council,  the  lamas,  the  Jongpens,  and 
other  high  officials  each  affixed  his  seal ; but  their  impres- 
sions were  in  black,  not  vermilion;  and  the  lamas,  on 
leaving  their  seats,  whether  to  present  the  Maharaja  with 
gifts  or  to  affix  their  seals,  always  took  off  their  hats  and 
robes  of  office,  resuming  them  when  they  again  seated  them- 
selves. The  following  is  a translation  of  the  document : 

“ To 

The  foot  of  the  two-fold  Judge. 

“Most  Respectfully  Prayeth, 

“There  being  no  Hereditary  Maharaja  over  this  State 
of  Bhutan,  and  the  Deb  Rajas  being  elected  from  amongst 
the  Lamas,  Lopons,  Councillors,  and  the  Chiolahs  of  the 
different  districts,  we  the  undersigned  Abbots,  Lopons, 
and  the  whole  body  of  Lamas,  the  State  Councillors,  the 
Chiolahs  of  the  different  districts,  with  all  the  subjects, 
having  discussed  and  unanimously  agreed  to  elect  Sir 
Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  Tongsa  Penlop,  the  Prime  Minister 
of  Bhutan,  as  Hereditary  Maharaja  of  this  State,  have 
installed  him,  in  open  Durbar,  on  the  golden  throne  on  this 
226 


oKa^j 


j^gilll^ik1*?  jf^&yi  \m 

2j a1  gfeffia a ^1  ^ (Kw 


^,W 9%  <gy  ^^•^|'<r^^‘ gr^gjt^-^1 jfflkwjfljifer 

||p  *3p5vw 3f^’ || 


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OATH  OK  ALLEGIANCE  SIGNED  AT  POONAKHA  AT  THE  INSTALLATION  OF  SIR  UGYEN  WANGCHUK 
AS  MAHARAJA  OF  BHUTAN,  1907 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 

the  13th  day  of  the  nth  month  of  Sa-telyear,  corresponding 
to  the  17th  December,  1907,  at  Poonakha-phodang. 

“ We  now  declare  our  allegiance  to  him  and  his  heirs 
with  unchanging  mind,  and  undertake  to  serve  him  and 
his  heirs  loyally  and  faithfully  to  the  best  of  our  ability. 
Should  any  one  not  abide  by  this  contract  by  saying  this 
and  that,  he  shall  altogether  be  turned  out  of  our  company. 

In  witness  thereto  we  affix  our  seals.” 

Seal  of  the  whole  body  of  lamas,  headed  by  the  Khenpo 
and  Lopon.  Seal  and  sign  of  Chotsi  (Tongsa)  Chiolah. 
Seal  and  sign  of  Zung  Donyer  Tsewang  Paljor.  Seal 
and  sign  of  Thimbu  Jongpen  Kunzang  Tinley.  Seal  and 
sign  of  Poonakha  Jongpen  Palden  Wang-chuk.  Seal  and 
sign  of  Angdu-phodang  Jongpen  Kunzang  Norbu.  Seal 
and  sign  of  Rinpung  Chiolah  (Paro  Penlop)  Dow  Paljor. 
Seal  and  sign  of  Tarkar  Chiolah  Tsewang  Dorje.  Seal 
and  sign  of  Deb  Zimpon  Kunzang  Tsering. 

Second-class  Officers. — Seal  and  sign  of  Zung  Donsapa 
Shar  Sring.  Seal  and  sign  of  Zimpon  Nangma  Namgyal. 
Seal  and  sign  of  Ta-pon  Rigzin  Dorje.  Seal  and  sign  of 
Chapon  Samdub.  Seal  and  sign  of  Poonakha  Zimpon 
Sangay  Tinley.  Seal  and  sign  of  Poonakha  Nyerpa  Kunley. 
Seal  and  sign  of  Ghassa-jong  Tarpon  Goley  Ngodub.  Seal 
and  sign  of  Thimbu  Zimpon  Sithub.  Seal  and  sign  of 
Thimbu  Nyerpa  Phurpa  Tashi.  Seal  and  sign  of  Linzi 
Nyerpa  Taya  Gepo.  Seal  and  sign  of  Angdu-phodang 
Zimpon  Tsewang  Ngodub.  Seal  and  sign  of  Angdu-pho- 
dang Nyerpa  Gharpon.  Seal  and  sign  of  Rinpung  Don- 
yer Palzang.  Seal  and  sign  of  Minpung  Nyerpa  Yesha. 
Seal  and  sign  of  Rinpung  Zimpon  Sigyal.  Seal  and  sign 
of  Dug-gye  Jongpen  Samten  Wot  Zer.  Seal  and  sign  of 
Hah  Tungpa  Ugyen.  Seal  and  sign  of  Bya-gha  Jongpen 
Tsemed  Dorje.  Seal  and  sign  of  Shon-gha  Jongpen  Dorje 
Paljor.  Seal  and  sign  of  Tashigong  Jongpen  Sonam 
Sring.  Seal  and  sign  of  Lhuntse  Jongpen  Tinley  Gyatso. 
Seal  and  sign  of  Shalgang  Jongpen  Karma.  Seal  and  sign 
227 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

of  all  the  third-class  officers  of  Poonakha.  Seal  and  sign 
of  all  the  third-class  officers  of  Tashi-cho-jong.  Seal  and 
sign  of  all  the  third-class  officers  of  Angdu-phodang.  Seal 
and  sign  of  all  the  third-class  officers  of  Tongsa.  Seal 
and  sign  of  all  the  third-class  officers  of  Rinpung  (Paro). 
Seal  and  sign  of  Chotre  Zimpon  Dorje.  Seal  and  sign  of 
Tarkar  Zimpon  Dorje.  Seal  and  sign  of  Nyerchen  Wangpo. 
Seal  and  sign  of  all  the  subjects  of  Tsochen-gyed.  Seal 
and  sign  of  all  the  subjects  of  Thekar-kyon-chu-sum.  Seal 
and  sign  of  all  the  subjects  of  Shar-tar-gyed.  Seal  and 
sign  of  all  the  subjects  of  Bar-khor-tso-tug.  Seal  and  sign 
of  all  the  subjects  of  Tsen-tong-ling-tug.  Seal  and  sign  of 
all  the  Hah  subjects.  Seal  and  sign  of  all  the  subjects  of 
Shachokhorlo-tsip-gyed.  Seal  and  sign  of  all  the  subjects 
of  Bar-khor-tso-tug. 

Two  copies  of  the  document  were  prepared  and  duly 
signed  and  sealed,  and  the  Tongsa  Penlop  was  thus  formally 
elected  as  His  Highness  the  Maharaja  of  Bhutan,  Sir 
Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  K.C.I.E.  I then  rose,  and  handing 
his  Highness  his  Excellency  the  Viceroy’s  kharita,  or 
complimentary  letter,  made  a short  speech  congratulating 
the  new  Maharaja,  saying  : 

“ Maharaja  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  Lamas,  Penlops, 
Jongpens,  and  Headmen, — 

“ I have  to-day  been  present  at  the  election  of  Sir 
Ugyen  as  Hereditary  Maharaja  of  Bhutan,  and  congratu- 
late you,  Sir  Ugyen,  most  heartily  on  your  accession  to 
the  gaddi,  and  the  people  of  Bhutan  on  their  choice 
of  a ruler. 

“ I have  known  Bhutan  for  many  years,  and,  with  an 
intimate  knowledge  of  the  political  questions  relating 
thereto,  I am  convinced  that  you  have  taken  a wise  step 
in  thus  consolidating  the  administration  of  the  State. 
Sir  Ugyen  has  been  my  friend  for  many  years,  and  you 
could  not  have  made  a better  choice.  His  integrity, 
uprightness,  and  firmness  of  character  commend  him  to 
228 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
every  one,  and  his  accession  to  the  Maharajaship  is  not 
only  a gain  to  Bhutan,  but  is  of  great  advantage  to  the 
British  Government,  who  will  henceforth  have  a settled 
Government,  with  a man  of  strong  character  at  its  head, 
to  negotiate  with.  My  sincere  hope  is  that  you,  Sir  Ugyen, 
may  long  be  spared  to  carry  through  the  many  improve- 
ments and  schemes  for  the  advancement  of  Bhutan  which 
you  and  I have  so  often  discussed,  and  I again  congratulate 
you  on  your  accession,  and  feel  confident  that  the  affairs 
of  Bhutan  under  your  guidance  will  be  in  the  best  of  hands. 
I also  have  great  pleasure  in  handing  you  a kharita,  convey- 
ing to  you  the  congratulations  of  his  Excellency  the  Viceroy 
and  the  Government  of  India. 

“ In  conclusion,  I wish  you  long  life  and  prosperity, 
and  may  your  descendants  be  equally  worthy  to  succeed 
you  for  many  generations  to  come.” 

The  other  members  of  the  Mission  presented  the  Maha- 
raja with  white  scarves,  and  congratulated  him  on  his 
accession  and  on  being  the  first  King  of  Bhutan ; for 
“ Gyelpo  ” is  the  title  given  him  by  the  people  of  Bhutan, 
not  Maharaja,  and  its  literal  translation  is  “ King.” 

The  Maharaja,  in  return,  expressed  his  satisfaction  at 
the  presence  of  a Mission  from  the  Government  of  India 
on  this  eventful  occasion,  an  occasion  which  he  hoped 
would  mark  the  opening  of  a new  era  of  prosperity  for  his 
country,  and  his  great  pleasure  in  welcoming  at  the  head 
of  the  Mission,  as  the  representative  of  the  Government 
of  India,  an  old  friend  of  many  years’  standing.  This 
brought  the  ceremony  to  a close,  and  we  left  the  hall  in 
the  order  we  had  come,  to  the  accompaniment  of  solemn 
music  played  by  the  lamas’  band,  the  Maharaja  and 
myself  heading  the  procession.  We  accompanied  the 
Maharaja  to  his  private  apartments,  where  refreshments 
in  the  shape  of  omelette,  rice,  fruit,  and  lychees  were 
handed  round,  and  after  talking  over  the  events  of  the 
day  I returned  to  camp. 

This  was  a momentous  day  in  the  history  of  Bhutan. 

229 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

The  country  had  now  a recognised  head ; Sir  Ugyen  Wang- 
chuk,  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  had  been  unanimously  chosen 
by  the  lamas,  headmen,  and  people  as  their  Hereditary 
Maharaja.  Sir  Ugyen  is  a man  of  particularly  strong 
character,  who  has  during  the  last  eighteen  or  twenty 
years  piloted  Bhutan  through  a series  of  revolutions  to  a 
state  of  peace  and  prosperity,  who  has  the  welfare  of  his 
country  at  heart  and  thinks  of  it  before  all  things.  He  is 
a man  universally  liked  and  respected,  and  is  peculiarly 
fitted  to  be  the  first  Maharaja,  and  should  he  live  long 
enough  I am  certain  his  rule  will  be  entirely  for  the  benefit 
of  his  people  and  their  country.  What  he  lacks  to  strengthen 
his  hands  are  funds  with  which  to  carry  on  the  develop- 
ment and  improvements.  The  opening  up  of  the  country 
he  has  already  commenced,  and  it  is  sincerely  to  be  hoped 
that  the  Government  of  India  may  see  its  way  to  giving  him 
the  necessary  assistance  in  the  shape  of  a substantial  loan 
on  easy  terms,  or,  better  still,  an  increase  of  his  annual 
subsidy.  The  aid  is  required  now,  not  in  the  distant  future, 
and  I hope  the  fact  that  I am  no  longer  on  the  spot  or 
able  to  press  the  matter  on  Government  will  not  mean 
that  the  proposals  made  will  be  allowed  to  fall  into  abey- 
ance, but  that  the  Indian  Government  will  give,  and  give 
generously,  what  is  required.  I cannot  pass  over  the  fact 
that  the  present  time  is  a critical  one  for  relations  between 
India  and  Bhutan,  and  that  if  we  do  not  support  the 
new  Maharaja  openly  and  generously  grave  complications 
may  be  the  result.  At  the  present  moment  Bhutan  and 
its  people  are  thoroughly  and  entirely  friendly  to  the  English, 
and  wish  beyond  everything  to  enter  into  close  relationships 
with  them,  but  since  the  withdrawal  of  the  Lhasa  Mission 
Chinese  influence  is  more  active  than  ever  on  this  frontier, 
and  Bhutan,  from  lack  of  active  help  and  sympathy  on 
our  part,  may,  against  her  will,  be  thrown  into  the  hands 
of  the  Chinese  by  sheer  force  of  circumstances,  for  China, 
as  we  know,  is  not  likely  to  lose  such  an  opportunity,  when 
the  expenditure  of  a few  thousand  rupees  will  gain  her 
230 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
end,  and  such  a departure  is  to  be  most  highly  deprecated 
from  all  points  of  view. 

In  honour  of  the  Maharaja’s  accession  I gave  a dinner 
to  Sir  Ugyen  and  his  councillors,  and  invited  them  for 
seven  o’clock,  but  they  all  arrived  about  five.  It  was  a 
little  difficult  to  entertain  them  until  dinner  was  served, 
but  fortunately  I had  a number  of  mechanical  toys  and 
an  electric  battery  to  show  them,  and  with  all  of  them  they 
were  just  as  pleased  as  a crowd  of  overgrown  children. 

I had  brought  the  annual  subsidy  of  50,000  rupees 
with  me  which,  under  the  treaty  of  1866,  by  which  the 
Bhutanese  ceded  the  Duars  to  the  Government  of  India, 
is  paid  to  them,  and  presented  it  in  full  Durbar.  Our 
large  shamianah  was  prepared  for  the  ceremony,  and  the 
guard  presented  arms  as  the  Maharaja  entered  the  en- 
closure. Sir  Ugyen  and  his  council  presented  us  with 
scarves,  and  a small  offering  of  salt  and  cloths  was  laid 
in  front  of  me.  I then  formally  handed  over  the  treasure, 
which  was  packed  in  boxes,  to  the  Maharaja ; at  his 
request  one  box  was  opened  and  a thousand  rupees  were 
counted  out.  The  boxes  were  then  taken  over  by  the  Deb 
Zimpon  and  removed  to  the  Jong.  The  subsidy  is  usually 
paid  at  Buxa,  in  the  Duars,  but  it  was  more  convenient 
for  us  both  to  make  it  over  at  Poonakha  this  year. 

At  the  Maharaja’s  special  request  I was  present  un- 
officially, as  his  friend,  at  the  first  private  council  meeting 
after  his  election,  and  discussed  with  them  and  advised 
them  on  various  matters  connected  with  the  administration 
of  the  State.  I considered  his  request  a great  compliment, 
and  was  only  too  pleased  to  assist  him  in  any  way  I could. 

I prolonged  my  visit  to  Poonakha  for  some  days,  explor- 
ing and  visiting  the  Jong,  exchanging  visits  with  the  chief 
officials  and  headmen,  and  making  one  or  two  excursions 
to  neighbouring  monasteries.  I revisited  the  Talo  Monas- 
tery, the  residence  of  the  Dharma  Raja,  and  found  it  as 
beautiful  and  charming  as  on  my  first  visit,  and  the  old 
Tango  Lama,  who,  until  the  new  incarnation  is  found, 
231 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

officiates  as  head  of  the  monastery,  as  genial  and  hospit- 
able as  of  old.  We  passed  a night  there,  and  returned  to 
Poonakha  through  lovely  scenery,  along  a road  with  oak, 
walnut,  and  wild  pear-trees  on  both  sides,  and  quantities 
of  bracken  and  wild  roses. 

On  Christmas  Day  the  post  came  in  most  opportunely 
with  our  letters,  and  later  the  Maharaja  and  council 
arrived  with  their  followers  to  be  photographed.  It  is 
a great  pity  that  in  the  photographs  the  colouring  of  the 
group  does  not  come  out,  as  that  was  the  most  effective 
part  of  the  picture.  The  council  were  in  bright-coloured 
silk  robes,  each  with  his  crimson  shawl  of  office  ; standard- 
bearers  in  gaily  striped  bokus  ; fighting  men  with  swords, 
leather  shields,  and  brightly  polished  steel  helmets  orna- 
mented with  colours ; archers  with  bows  and  arrows, 
gun-carriers  with  all  kinds  of  strange  weapons,  and  many 
others,  all  quaintly  and  picturesquely  dressed. 

Later  in  the  day  we  distributed  doles  to  the  poor  in 
the  neighbourhood.  More  than  a thousand  turned  up,  a 
most  quiet  and  orderly  crowd,  who  waited  with  the  greatest 
patience  each  for  his  turn.  I had  them  marshalled  in 
double  lines,  sitting  on  the  ground,  and  Rennick  and 
Campbell  passed  down  the  lines,  giving  each  person  a four- 
anna  bit.  Even  the  babies  were  made  to  hold  out  their 
hands,  though  the  parent  speedily  seized  the  coin.  We 
brought  an  unusual  Christmas  Day  to  a close  with  a dinner- 
party, followed  by  a magic-lantern  exhibition,  at  which 
the  Maharaja  and  council  were  our  guests;  and  with  this 
entertainment  the  ceremonies  attending  the  Maharaja’s 
installation  came  to  an  end,  and  the  following  day  our 
party  was  broken  up.  I sent  Campbell  back  to  Chumbi 
with  the  escort,  while  Rennick  and  Hyslop  returned  to 
India  via  the  Buxa  route. 

I remained  behind,  at  the  urgent  request  of  the  new 
Maharaja  and  his  council,  to  discuss  with  them  many 
projects  and  schemes  for  the  welfare  and  improvement 
of  the  country.  These  covered  a large  area — schools  and 
232 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 


education,  population,  trade,  the  construction  of  roads, 
the  mineral  resources  of  the  country  and  the  best  method 
of  utilising  them,  the  desirability  of  encouraging  tea  culti- 
vation on  the  waste  lands  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  which 
are  excellent  for  the  purpose  and  equal  to  the  best  tea  land 
in  the  Duars. 

The  discussions  were  long  and  earnest,  and  the  Tongsa 
and  all  his  council  entered  most  fully  into  everything. 
The  great  stumbling-block  to  all  advancement  was  the 
lack  of  funds,  and  this  was  clearly  recognised  by  them  all, 
as  well  as  the  fact  that  money  must  be  raised ; but  the 
difficulty  was  how  to  do  it.  The  sale  of  timber,  mining 
concessions,  and  grants  of  tea  land  would  all  be  means 
of  bringing  in  a considerable  revenue,  and  they  decided  to 
move  the  Government  of  India  in  the  matter.  After 
spending  several  days  in  discussing  these  proposals  I also 
was  obliged  to  take  my  departure,  much  as  I regretted 
having  to  do  so.  Sir  Ugyen  was  much  distressed,  and  felt 
my  going  keenly,  as,  owing  to  my  approaching  retirement, 
it  was  the  last  time  we  should  meet  officially,  though  I 
hope  some  day  to  visit  him  again  on  my  own  account. 

Sir  Ugyen  accompanied  me  about  four  miles  out  of 
Poonakha,  and  under  the  shade  of  a large  pine-tree  we 
sat  for  about  two  hours  for  our  final  talk,  and  then  took 
a sad  farewell  of  each  other. 

I have  never  met  a native  I liked  and  respected  more 
than  I do  Sir  Ugyen.  He  is  upright,  honest,  open,  and 
straightforward,  and  I wish  it  had  been  possible  to  remain 
in  India  till  he  had  at  least  commenced  some  of  his  schemes 
of  reform.  He  has  a very  difficult  task  before  him,  and 
at  this  time  especially  requires  help  given  to  him  sym- 
pathetically and  directly,  without  the  trammels  of  official 
red  tape. 

My  intention  was  to  reach  the  plains  at  J aigaon,  travelling 
via  Paro  and  Dongna-jong,  and  Ugyen  Kazi  accompanied 
me.  After  staying  for  the  night  in  my  old  camping-ground 
at  Lung-me-tsawe,  I reached  Paro,  and  was  received  by  the 
233 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Paro  Penlop,  who  had  returned  immediately  after  the 
installation  in  order  to  superintend  the  rebuilding  of  the 
fort. 

While  sitting  round  the  camp-fire  that  night  the  Ghassa 
Jongpen’s  men  brought  me  a magnificent  specimen  of  a 
male  takin  ( Bndorcas  taxicolor  Whitei).  The  carcase  was 
frozen  hard,  and  it  was  only  with  great  difficulty  that  I 
succeeded  in  having  it  skinned.  It  was  a weird  sight  to 
watch  the  men  working  by  the  light  of  the  fire  and  bamboo 
torches,  but  the  operation  was  at  last  completed,  and  the 
meat  distributed.  Every  one  was  eager  to  secure  a portion, 
as  it  is  believed  to  be  a cure  for  many  diseases  and  a sure 
panacea  in  the  case  of  child-birth. 

In  my  travels  in  Bhutan  I have  several  times  heard 
of  takin  in  the  neighbourhood,  but  never  had  time  to  go 
after  them,  as  their  haunts  were  always  too  far  off  my 
route. 

On  leaving  Paro  I turned  to  the  south  and  went  down 
the  valley  over  a hitherto  unknown  route,  camping  for 
the  first  night  at  a village  called  Pomesa.  The  march 
up  the  ridge  above  the  Hah  Valley,  which  we  crossed  by 
the  Doley-la,  was  good  going,  and  we  passed  through 
some  very  fine  forests.  From  the  ridge  I descended  to 
the  Hah-chhu  by  an  easy  road,  which  led  chiefly  through 
oaks  and  Pinus  excelsa,  passing  Bite-jong  on  the  way, 
but  from  the  Hah-chhu  on  to  the  top  of  the  next  ridge, 
over  which  we  crossed  by  the  Lome-la,  the  road  was  not 
good.  For  a great  part  of  the  way  there  were  magnificent 
forests  of  Pinus  excelsa , Abies  Brunoniana,  and  silver  fir, 
many  of  the  trees  exceeding  in  size  anything  I have  ever 
seen.  If  these  forests,  with  the  water-power  at  hand  on 
all  sides,  were  properly  worked  they  ought  to  supply  all 
the  tea  districts  in  India  with  boxes,  and  would  then  soon 
bring  in  some  of  the  much-needed  revenue  to  Bhutan ; but 
European  capital  and  supervision  are  absolutely  necessary, 
or  otherwise  the  forests  will  be  destroyed. 

From  the  Lome-la  the  track  down  to  the  Dongna- 
'234 


H.H.  SIR  UGYEN  WANG-CHUK,  K,C.I.E.,  MAHARAJA  OF  BHUTAN 


MY  SECOND  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN 
jong,  and  on  to  the  plains  does  not  deserve  the  name  of 
a road.  It  is  nothing  but  a watercourse  most  of  the  way, 
with  mere  tracks  along  bad  precipices  and  almost  per- 
pendicular falls,  while  from  Dongna-jong  it  follows  the 
bed  of  the  river,  and  must  be  absolutely  impassable  in  the 
rains.  It  was  a marvel  how  my  mules  managed  to  get 
down,  but  with  the  exception  of  being  a little  footsore 
they  were  none  the  worse,  and  a few  days’  rest  put  them 
in  condition  again.  One  of  the  reasons  this  part  of  the  road 
is  so  bad  is  that  it  is  on  the  slopes  of  the  hills  immediately 
above  the  plains  which  receive  the  full  force  of  the  south- 
west monsoon,  probably  not  less  than  300  inches  of  rain  in 
the  year,  and  no  road,  unless  very  carefully  looked  after, 
can  stand  that.  It  is  quite  useless  from  any  utilitarian 
point  of  view,  but  the  scenery  throughout  is  lovely. 

I was  not  sorry  to  reach  J aigaon,  Mr.  Trood’s  comfortable 
bungalow,  where  I was  most  hospitably  entertained,  and 
where  I stayed  for  three  days  to  recruit  and  to  transact 
some  work  with  some  of  the  tea-gardens  on  the  frontier. 

From  Jaigaon  I travelled  west  along  the  boundary  to 
view  land  suitable  for  tea  on  the  Bhutan  side,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  look  at  some  copper  deposits  which  I hope 
may  eventually  prove  profitable  to  Bhutan. 

After  inspecting  them  I turned  back  and  went  to  the 
east  of  Bhutan  to  look  at  a coal-mine,  travelling  via  Dhubri 
and  Gauhati.  By  this  time  the  different  kinds  of  transport 
I had  used  during  my  tour  had  included,  I should  think, 
about  every  known  sort.  I had  made  use  of  coolies,  ele- 
phants, mules,  ponies,  donkeys,  yaks,  oxen,  carts,  pony- 
traps,  rail,  and  steamer,  and  the  only  available  animal  I 
had  not  employed  was  the  Tibetan  pack-sheep. 

The  hills  where  the  coal  is  situated  lie  on  the  northern 
slope  of  the  Himalayas,  and  are  densely  clothed  with  forests, 
but  with  practically  no  population,  as  it  is  too  fever-stricken 
to  allow  of  any  one  living  there.  They  are,  however,  the 
haunt  of  almost  every  kind  of  wild  animal — elephant, 
rhino,  tiger,  leopard,  bison,  mythun,  sambur,  cheetah, 
235 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

hog-deer,  barking  deer,  &c.  The  river-beds  are  full  of  runs 
leading  to  the  various  salt-licks  which  occur  in  the  hills. 
On  one  of  my  visits  to  the  coal  a magnificent  tusker  went 
up  the  valley  ahead  of  me,  and  Ugyen  Kazi,  who  pitched 
his  camp  higher  up  the  valley,  was  obliged  to  move  his 
tents  owing  to  the  numbers  of  wild  elephants  making  it 
too  unpleasant  for  him  to  stay  on.  While  I was  examining 
the  coal  a large  tigress  with  her  cub  walked  down  the 
valley,  and  on  my  return  I found  her  pugs,  with  the  little 
one’s  pug  inside  one  of  her  own.  It  would  be  an  ideal 
place  for  shooting,  but  not  easy  to  follow  game,  owing  to 
the  extreme  steepness  of  the  sandstone  cliffs. 

The  elephant  in  its  wild  state  can  go  over,  or  down, 
nearly  anything,  and  the  tusker  I mentioned  I found  had 
gone  up  a precipice  thirty  feet  high  at  an  angle  very  little 
short  of  perpendicular. 

I found  the  coal  very  much  crushed  and  squeezed  out 
of  its  original  bed.  The  quality  also  was  not  very  good, 
with  too  much  ash,  but  it  might  be  utilised  to  make  gas, 
which  could  be  supplied  to  the  neighbouring  tea-gardens 
at  probably  less  cost  than  the  timber  now  in  use  for  fuel. 
After  inspecting  the  coal  I left  Ugyen  Kazi  to  attend  to 
some  timber  contracts  he  had  undertaken,  and  to  the  sale 
of  the  Bhutan  lac,  and  fortunately  finding  a dog-cart 
available,  set  off  to  drive  to  the  ghat  at  Rungamatti,  a 
quicker  way  of  travelling  than  on  an  elephant.  There  had 
been  some  rain,  but  the  roads  were  in  fair  order.  At 
Rungamatti  I had  a long  wait  for  the  steamer,  which  had 
stuck  on  a sandbank  somewhere  further  up  the  river,  and 
in  consequence  we  were  nearly  twenty-four  hours  late  in 
reaching  Dhubri,  the  present  terminus  of  the  railway ; but 
from  there  there  was  no  difficulty  in  getting  back  to  my 
home  at  Gangtak.  This  ended  my  last  official  visit  to 
Bhutan ; but  I hope  it  will  not  be  my  last  visit,  as  I look 
forward  to  meeting  Sir  Ugyen  and  his  sister  again,  as  well 
as  all  the  Bhutan  officials,  and  to  revisiting  the  country 
in  which  I have  spent  so  many  pleasant  months. 

236 


CHAPTER  XX 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

Bogle,  1774.  Hamilton,  1775  and  1 777.  Turner,  1783.  Pem- 
berton, 1838.  Eden,  1864.  White,  1905.  White,  1907. 

An  account  of  the  first  Mission  to  Bhutan  is  to  be  found 
in  the  “ Narrative  of  the  Mission  of  George  Bogle  to  Tibet, 
and  of  Thomas  Manning  to  Lhasa,”  edited  by  Markham,  in 

1875. 

Prior  to  this  narrative,  no  full  account  of  Bogle’s  Mission 
had  been  published.  An  attempt  to  find  adequate  materials 
in  the  records  at  Calcutta  or  at  the  India  Office  had  failed, 
but  fortunately  Bogle’s  journals,  memoranda,  official  and 
private  correspondence  were  carefully  preserved  by  his 
family  in  Scotland,  and  it  is  on  these  materials  that  Mark- 
ham has  based  his  narrative.  It  was  the  lack  of  these 
materials  in  the  public  offices  that  led  Eden,  in  his  account 
of  the  political  missions  to  Bhutan,  to  say  that  Bogle  does 
not  appear  to  have  been  charged  with  any  political  functions 
with  regard  to  Bhutan.  Markham’s  investigations  have 
proved,  on  the  contrary,  that  Bogle  had  a mission  to 
Bhutan,  and  an  important  one.  The  Mission  originated 
in  a friendly  letter  from  the  Penchen  Rimpochi  of  Tibet, 
interceding  with  the  East  India  Company  on  behalf  of 
Bhutan  after  the  Bhutanese  invasion  of  Cooch  Behar, 
and  the  primary  cause  of  Bogle’s  Mission  was  Warren 
Hastings’  desire  to  take  advantage  of  this  opening  given 
him  by  the  Penchen  Rimpochi  to  establish  friendly 

237 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

communications  with  the  Government  at  Lhasa  and  open 
a trade  with  Tibet. 

Eden  is  so  far  right  in  saying  that  Bogle  was  charged 
with  no  political  Mission  to  Bhutan  inasmuch  as  the 
treaty  of  1774  had  already  been  concluded  in  the  April 
of  that  year,  and  Bogle’s  appointment  letter  is  dated 
May  13,  1774,  and  in  that  letter  no  specific  Mission  to 
Bhutan  is  mentioned.  Warren  Hastings,  in  his  letter  to 
the  Court  of  Directors,  informs  them  that  he  is  taking  the 
opportunity  of  the  Penchen  Rimpochi’s  letter  to  employ 
Bogle  to  visit  the  Lama  and  open  intercourse  between 
Tibet  and  Bengal,  and  does  not  mention  Bhutan. 

The  letter  of  instructions  to  Bogle  also  refers  entirely 
to  the  negotiations  with  Tibet,  though  some  confusion 
arises  from  the  employment  by  Warren  Hastings  in  this 
letter  of  the  word  “ Bhutan.”  “ Having  appointed  you 
my  Deputy  to  the  Penchen  Rimpochi,  the  Sovereign  of 
Bhutan,”  is  the  opening  sentence  of  the  letter,  but  Warren 
Hastings  has  used  the  word  “ Bhutan  ” here  and  in  other 
places  where  it  is  mentioned  in  the  letter  for  “ Bhot,”  the 
native  name  of  Tibet.  This  explanation  of  the  use  of  the 
word  “ Bhutan  ” is  to  be  found  in  Markham’s  note,  and 
the  context  of  the  letter  shows  that  it  is  evidently  the  right 
one.  But  the  subsequent  correspondence  between  Warren 
Hastings  and  Bogle  proves  that  the  latter  was  certainly 
charged  with  a friendly  message  to  the  Deb  Raja,  and 
with  the  more  important  duty  of  opening  up  trade  with 
that  country,  and,  through  it,  with  Tibet.  The  main  object 
of  his  Mission  was  to  open  communications  and  trade  with 
Tibet,  but  to  attain  this  object  he  was  to  gain  the  Deb 
Raja’s  consent  to  the  passage  of  traders  through  Bhutanese 
territory. 

Bogle  was  the  bearer  of  presents  to  the  Deb  Raja,  and 
spent  some  time  at  Tashi-cho-jong  as  the  Deb  Raja’s  guest, 
and  was  hospitably  and  civilly  treated. 

There  must  also  have  been  some  later  written  instruc- 
tions on  this  point,  for  in  writing  to  Warren  Hastings  on 
238 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

October  8,  1774,  Bogle  acknowledges  the  receipt  of  his 
commands  of  August  9 through  a merchant  of  Rangpur, 
and  proceeds  to  say  that  in  several  conversations  he  has 
made  known  Warren  Hastings’  wish  to  extend  the  inter- 
course between  Bengal  and  the  Northern  nations,  from 
which  Bhutan,  as  a channel  of  communications,  would 
naturally  benefit,  and  concludes  by  requesting,  at  the 
solicitation  of  the  Deb  Raja,  that  the  annual  caravan  from 
Bhutan  to  Rangpur  might  meet  with  assistance  and  protec- 
tion. The  result  of  his  visit  was  a very  friendly  letter  from 
Warren  Hastings,  dated  November  28,  1774,  to  the  “ Raja 
of  Bhutan,”  acknowledging  the  kindness  and  civility  shown 
to  Bogle,  and  enclosing  a perwana  for  the  encouragement 
of  any  Bhutanese  subjects  who  might  “ wish  to  travel 
with  caravans  to  Rangpur  and  other  districts  under  the 
Company’s  authority  for  the  purpose  of  trade.”  The 
perwana  states  that  strict  injunctions  have  been  given 
to  the  officers  of  Rangpur  and  Ghoraghat,  in  Dinajpur, 
not  to  obstruct  the  passage  of  these  caravans,  and  to  afford 
them  every  assistance.  This  letter  was  followed  by  another 
one  from  Warren  Hastings,  dated  January  6,  1775,  in  a 
similar  friendly  tone,  and  promising  to  take  steps  to  remove 
some  obstructions  which  had  been  made  locally  to  the  trade 
in  cotton  between  Bhutan  and  Bengal,  and  suggesting  that 
the  Deb  Raja  should  send  a vakeel  to  reside  in  Calcutta 
to  facilitate  communication  between  the  two  Governments. 
From  the  first  letter  of  November  28, 1774,  it  is  also  apparent 
that  Warren  Hastings  intended  to  have  regular  articles 
of  trade  drawn  up  between  the  two  countries.  A further 
correspondence  took  place  between  Warren  Hastings  and 
Bogle  after  the  latter’s  return  to  Tashi-cho-jong  from  his 
visit  to  the  Penchen  Rimpochi,  in  Tibet,  on  the  subject 
of  trade  negotiations.  There  is  a letter  from  Warren 
Hastings  to  Bogle,  dated  May  9,  1775,  and  one  from  Bogle 
to  Warren  Hastings,  dated  May  25,  which  evidently  crossed 
one  another.  Then  we  have  another  letter  of  Bogle’s,  of 
June  9,  and  his  general  report  of  his  Mission.  From  this 

239 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

correspondence  it  is  proved  that  Bogle  drew  up  certain 
trade  articles,  to  which  he  obtained  the  Deb  Raja’s  consent, 
and  submitted  them  to  Warren  Hastings.  There  is  no 
record  of  these  articles  having  ever  been  formally  signed 
by  the  Deb  Raja  and  Bogle,  or  having  received  Hastings’ 
approval,  but  as  Hastings  gave  Bogle  a very  free  hand  to 
make  the  best  arrangements  he  could  for  trade,  and  as  in 
the  case  of  the  Rangpur  trade  the  articles  were  acted  on, 
it  seems  most  probable  that  Warren  Hastings  did  approve 
of  them. 

It  is  curious  and  somewhat  confusing  to  find  that  in 
the  conduct  of  these  negotiations  both  Hastings  and  Bogle 
apparently  overlooked  Article  4 of  the  treaty  of  1774, 
which  lays  down  that  “ the  Bhootans  being  merchants, 
shall  have  the  same  privilege  of  trade  as  formerly  without 
the  payment  of  duties,  and  their  caravans  shall  be  allowed 
to  go  to  Rangpur  annually,”  for  in  Hastings’  letter  of 
May  9,  1775,  to  Bogle  he  ignores  this  clause  altogether, 
and  says  that,  to  establish  freedom  of  trade  between 
Bhutan  and  Bengal,  the  annual  caravans  may  continue 
their  trade  to  Rangpur  on  the  customary  terms,  and  “ you 
may  even  consent  to  relinquish  the  tribute  or  duty  which 
is  exacted  from  the  caravans.” 

The  duty  is  further  mentioned  in  the  letter  as  amounting 
to  Rs.  2000.  Neither  does  Bogle  in  his  articles  of  trade 
make  any  allusion  to  the  fourth  article  of  the  treaty,  and 
in  the  second  and  third  clauses  of  his  articles  provides  for 
the  free  trading  of  the  Bhutanese  to  Rangpur  and  other 
places  in  Bengal,  and  for  the  abolition  of  the  duties  on 
the  Rangpur  caravan,  as  if  these  privileges  had  not  been 
already  secured  to  the  Bhutanese  by  the  treaty.  A fair 
was  afterwards  established  at  Rangpur  under  conditions 
which  were  extremely  favourable  to  the  Bhutanese.  Their 
expenses  were  paid  by  Government,  stables  erected  for  their 
horses  and  houses  for  themselves.  This  fair  continued  down 
to  1832,  when  the  grant  for  its  maintenance  was  withdrawn. 

Markham  thus  sums  up  the  result  of  Bogle’s  Mission  : 

240 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

“ Besides  the  valuable  information  he  collected,  Bogle’s 
Mission  was  very  successful  in  other  respects.  It  laid 
the  foundation  of  a policy  which,  had  it  been  steadily, 
cautiously,  though  continuously,  carried  out,  would  long 
ere  this  have  secured  permanent  results.  Bogle  formed 
a close  friendship  with  the  Teshu  Lama  (Penchen  Rimpochi) 
and  all  his  kindred.  He  secured  their  hearty  co-operation 
and  support  in  the  encouragement  of  trade,  and  even 
succeeded,  after  tedious  negotiations,  in  inducing  the 
Bhutan  Government  to  allow  the  passage  of  merchandise 
through  their  territory  to  and  from  Tibet  and  Bengal.” 

I have  enlarged  at  some  length  on  the  nature  of  this 
part  of  Bogle’s  Mission  to  Tibet,  as  both  Pemberton  and 
Eden  were  in  ignorance  of  the  real  facts,  and  therefore 
failed  to  recognise  the  importance  of  his  visit  to  the  Deb 
Raja.  The  same  misapprehension  occurs  in  Aitcheson’s 
“ Treaties,”  where  it  is  stated  : “ From  that  time,  with  the 
exception  of  two  unsuccessful  commercial  missions  in  1774 
and  1783,”  &c. 

The  Mission  of  1774  noticed  must,  of  course,  have  been 
Bogle’s,  and  it  is  not  fair  to  say  that  it  was  unsuccessful. 
The  results  of  his  Mission  were,  in  fact,  most  encouraging 
at  the  time,  and  laid  the  foundations  of  what  would,  but 
for  the  subsequent  conduct  of  the  Bhutanese  and  the  course 
events  took  with  Tibet,  have  developed  into  a thriving 
trade  between  their  country  and  Bengal,  while  the  friendly 
attitude  of  Warren  Hastings  towards  the  Bhutan  Govern- 
ment serves  to  show  up  the  subsequent  misconduct  of  the 
Bhutanese  in  their  relations  with  us  in  an  even  more 
unfavourable  light  than  it  has  yet  appeared. 

Bogle  left  Calcutta  with  Mr.  Hamilton,  the  surgeon 
appointed  to  attend  him,  in  May  1774,  and  entered  Bhutan 
from  Cooch  Behar  through  the  Buxa  Duar.  His  route 
to  the  capital,  Tashi-cho-jong,  lay  up  the  Tchin-chhu,  or 
Raidak  river,  and  was  made  in  ten  stages,  with  a computed 
distance  of  152  miles.  The  route  seems  to  have  been  a 
fairly  easy  one,  and  though  the  roads  were  too  steep  and 
241  Q 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

rugged  for  the  conveyance  of  goods  except  by  coolies, 
Bogle  himself  was  able  to  ride  most  of  the  way.  It  is 
interesting  to  notice  that  on  his  way  Bogle  planted  potatoes 
at  his  halting-places,  which  he  did  at  the  desire  of  Warren 
Hastings,  in  order  to  introduce  the  plant  into  Bhutan. 
Between  Buxa  Duar  and  Chuka,  the  sixth  stage,  he  found 
but  few  villages  and  scanty  cultivation,  but  beyond  Chuka 
and  up  to  the  capital  the  country  opened  gradually,  the 
mountain-sides  were  more  sloping,  and  the  villages  became 
more  frequent.  The  country  here  is  described  as  populous 
and  well  cultivated,  the  houses  to  be  built  of  stones  and 
clay,  two  or  three  stories  high ; there  were  temples  and, 
on  the  last  two  stages,  rice-fields.  The  temperature  at 
Kyapcha  was  in  June  58°  in  the  morning  and  evening, 
and  64°  in  the  heat  of  the  day ; at  Tashi-cho-jong  it  was 
61 0 in  the  morning,  68°  to  70 0 at  midday.  The  Bhutanese 
seem  to  have  been  adepts  at  bridge-making.  The  com- 
monest kinds  were  wooden  bridges  on  the  cantilever 
principle,  but  iron  suspension  bridges  were  also  met  with. 
Bogle  was  furnished  with  a passport  from  the  Deb  Raja, 
and  seems  to  have  found  no  difficulty  in  getting  supplies 
and  coolies.  He  found  the  bigari,  or  forced  labour,  system 
prevalent,  but  says  that  it  is  so  well  established  that  the 
people  submit  to  it  without  a murmur. 

Tashi-cho-jong,  the  capital,  is  situated  in  a valley 
about  five  miles  long  and  one  broad,  and  is  entirely 
surrounded  by  high  mountains.  The  river  Tchin-chhu 
‘ ‘ gallops  through  ” the  low  grounds  near  it,  which  are  covered 
with  rice  and  well  peopled.  Bogle  gives  detailed  and 
amusing  accounts  of  his  reception  and  stay  at  the  capital, 
and  a description  of  the  palace  of  the  Deb  and  Dharma 
Rajas.  The  palace  contained  nearly  3000  men  and  no 
women,  and  a tower  five  or  six  stories  high  was  allotted 
to  the  Dharma  Raja.  The  Dharma  Raja  apparently  kept 
very  much  in  the  background,  and  Bogle’s  visits  to  him 
were  attended  with  less  ceremony  than  those  to  the  Deb 
Raja.  Bogle  appears  to  have  been  quite  satisfied  with 
242 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

his  reception,  and  mixed  freely  with  the  people,  joining 
one  day  in  a game  of  quoits  with  the  Jongpen  of  Tashi-cho- 
jong  and  his  followers.  Getting  tired  of  quoits,  at  which 
he  found  himself  less  dexterous  than  his  entertainers,  he 
went  off  and  shot  wild  pigeons,  and  after  that  had  dinner 
with  the  Jongpen.  This  freedom  of  intercourse  and  the 
friendly  and  cordial  manner  in  which  he  was  entertained 
by  the  Deb  Raja  and  members  of  his  court  is  in  strong 
contrast  to  the  treatment  met  with  by  subsequent  Missions 
after  Turner’s,  and  it  is  perhaps  not  surprising  that  Bogle, 
especially  considering  his  own  gentle  and  amiable  disposi- 
tion, should  give  us  a much  more  pleasing  impression  of 
the  Bhutanese  than  is  to  be  met  with  elsewhere. 

In  July  1774  Bogle  received  a letter  from  the  Penchen 
Rimpochi  desiring  him  to  return  to  Calcutta  instead  of 
proceeding  to  Tibet.  The  excuse  of  which  we  have  so 
often  heard  since  in  our  dealings  with  Tibet — namely,  the 
necessity  of  obtaining  the  consent  of  China  to  his  journey — 
was  put  forward.  The  Deb  Raja  followed  suit  by  endeavour- 
ing to  persuade  Bogle  to  return.  Bogle  thought  that  the 
obstacle  to  his  journey  originated  with  the  Deb  Raja,  but 
it  seems  just  as  likely  that  the  Deb  Raja  was  merely  carry- 
ing out  the  wishes  of  the  Penchen  Rimpochi.  Eventually 
these  difficulties  were  overcome,  and  he  left  Tashi-cho-jong 
on  October  13,  1774,  with  Hamilton.  The  route  taken 
was  via  Paro  to  Phari-jong,  in  the  Chumbi  Valley,  which, 
after  a visit  to  the  Paro  Penlop,  was  reached  by  the  Mission 
on  October  23.  It  would  be  outside  the  province  of  this 
note  to  follow  Bogle  in  his  journey  in  Tibet,  though  his 
account  of  it  is  full  of  interest.  It  will  be  sufficient  to 
say  that  though  he  was  forbidden  to  visit  Lhasa  he  spent 
some  time  at  Tashi  Lhunpo,  made  great  friends  with  the 
Penchen  Rimpochi,  and  fully  enlisted  his  sympathies  with 
Warren  Hastings’  plans.  Bogle  left  Tashi  Lhunpo  on 
April  7,  1775,  and  on  May  8 reached  Tashi-cho-jong,  and 
apparently  stayed  there  for  about  a month  to  carry  out  his 
trade  negotiations  with  the  Deb  Raja  before  returning  to 
243 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Bengal.  The  temper  of  the  Deb  Raja  does  not  seem  to 
have  been  so  cordial  as  at  the  time  of  Bogle’s  first  visit, 
but  “ after  many  tiresome  conferences  and  further  negotia- 
tions, in  which  the  Penchen  Rimpochi’s  people  assisted,” 
Bogle  was  able  to  obtain  the  Deb  Raja’s  consent  to  his 
articles  of  trade.  He  failed,  however,  to  obtain  permission 
for  English  or  European  traders  to  enter  the  Deb  Raja’s 
dominions,  and  it  was  evidently  on  this  point  chiefly  that 
the  conferences  were  “ tiresome  ” and  ultimately  “ fruit- 
less.” The  other  difficulty  he  had  to  face  was  that  freedom 
of  trade  in  Bhutan  would  affect  the  Deb  Raja’s  personal 
profits  from  the  monopoly  he  enjoyed. 

Bogle's  Impression  of  the  Country. — Bogle,  as  before 
noticed,  carried  away  a much  more  pleasing  impression 
of  the  country  than  any  of  his  successors  after  Turner, 
except  myself.  Indeed,  he  gives  us  a picture  of  good 
government  and  Arcadian  simplicity.  It  must  be  ad- 
mitted, however,  that  the  educated  Bhutanese  whom  one 
meets  outside  their  country,  though  rough  in  manners, 
are  pleasant  and  agreeable,  and  that  they  were,  as  a people, 
never  so  black  as  they  were  painted  by  Eden,  who  had 
very  good  reasons  for  only  seeing  the  worst  side  of  their 
character.  A brief  account  of  Bogle’s  impressions  will  be 
interesting,  as  they  coincide  very  much  with  the  opinion 
formed  by  me  during  my  Mission  of  1906,  and  serve  to 
show  that  the  very  unfavourable  judgment  passed  upon 
them  by  Eden  was  hardly  a true  one,  and  was  caused  very 
much  by  his  own  treatment.  Bogle  found  the  govern- 
ment of  Bhutan  to  be  based  on  a theocracy  which,  while 
retaining  a nominal,  and  to  some  extent  a real,  supremacy 
in  the  affairs  of  the  country,  had  entrusted  the  administra- 
tion of  all  temporal  matters  to  a body  of  laymen.  This 
body  retained  the  election  of  the  Deb  Raja,  the  head  of 
the  temporal  power,  and  his  deposition  in  its  own  hands, 
made  him  accountable  to  itself  for  the  conduct  of  affairs, 
and  without  its  consent  the  Deb  Raja  could  undertake 
no  measure  of  importance  in  the  management  of  the  State. 

244 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

As  to  the  exact  constitution  of  this  theocracy,  Bogle  is 
not  very  clear,  but  he  probably  means  that  it  was  made 
up  of  the  priests  and  heads  of  the  monasteries  under  the 
Dharma  Raja. 

He  divides  the  inhabitants  into  three  classes — the 
priests,  the  servants  or  officers  of  Government,  and  the 
landholders  and  husbandmen. 

The  priests  were  formed  from  the  body  of  the  people, 
were  received  at  an  early  age,  and  when  admitted  into 
orders  took  oaths  of  chastity.  The  second  class  compre- 
hended the  ministers  and  governors  of  provinces,  tax- 
collectors,  and  all  their  train  of  dependents.  They  were 
not  prohibited  from  marrying,  yet,  finding  it  a bar  to  their 
preferment,  seldom  entered  that  state.  Like  the  priests, 
they  were  taken  from  families  in  the  country.  They  were 
bred  up  in  the  palaces  under  the  patronage  of  some,  man 
in  office,  by  whom  they  were  fed  and  clothed,  but  received 
no  wages.  They  seldom  arrived  at  places  of  trust  or  con- 
sequence till  far  advanced  in  life,  and  passed  through  all 
the  gradations  of  service.  It  was  no  uncommon  thing 
to  see  a minister  as  expert  in  mending  a shoe  or  making 
a tunic  as  in  settling  the  business  of  the  nation.  The  land- 
holders and  husbandmen,  though  by  far  the  most  numerous 
class,  and  “ that  which  gives  birth  to  the  other  two,”  were 
entirely  excluded  from  any  share  in  the  administration. 
Bogle  evidently  means  that  the  members  of  the  agricultural 
class  have  no  chance  of  entering  public  life  unless  they  are 
caught  up  early  in  childhood  and  trained  in  the  house- 
holds of  men  in  office.  He  is  not  very  clear  in  his  definition 
of  the  position  of  the  lamas.  “ The  lamas,”  he  says, 
“ are  first  in  rank,  and  nominally  first  in  power.  They 
enjoy  a joint  authority,  and  in  all  their  deliberations  are 
assisted  by  the  clergy.  The  lamas,  though  nominally 
superior  in  government,  yet,  as  they  owe  their  appoint- 
ment to  the  priests,  are  tutored  by  them  from  their  earliest 
infancy,  and  deriving  all  their  knowledge  of  public  affairs 
from  them,  are  entirely  under  their  management.  The 
245 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 


right  of  electing  the  Deb  Raja  is  vested  in  the  superiors 
of  their  order  jointly  with  the  lamas.  . . .”  “ Their 

sacred  profession,  so  far  from  disqualifying  them  from 
the  conduct  of  civil  affairs,  is  the  means  of  advancing  them 
to  it.  They  are  often  appointed  to  the  government  of 
provinces,  employed  as  ministers,  or  entrusted  with  other 
offices  of  the  first  consideration  in  the  State.”  Turner 
found  that  the  governing  class  was  educated  in  the  monas- 
teries. The  distinction  which  Bogle  intended  to  draw 
between  the  priests  and  the  lamas  was  probably  that  the 
lamas  were  those  who,  having  received  a religious  or  semi- 
religious  training  in  the  monasteries,  elected  afterwards 
to  enter  the  secular  posts  of  Government,  retaining  at  the 
same  time  a close  connection  with  the  religious  side  of  the 
national  life,  especially  in  the  matter  of  celibacy.  They 
were  represented  by  the  Deb  Raja,  his  governors,  ministers, 
and  councillors,  in  contradistinction  to  the  priesthood, 
who,  with  the  Dharma  Raja  as  its  head,  concerned  itself 
primarily  with  the  religious  administration  of  the  country. 
The  institution  of  caste  was  unknown,  and  in  the  absence 
of  any  sort  of  hereditary  distinction  any  one  might  rise 
to  the  highest  office. 

The  appointment  to  offices,  the  collection  and  manage- 
ment of  the  revenue,  the  command  and  direction  of  the 
military  force,  and  the  power  of  fife  and  death  were  vested 
in  the  Deb  Raja. 

The  provincial  governors  were  entrusted  with  very 
ample  jurisdiction.  The  policing  of  the  country,  the  levying 
of  taxes,  and  the  administration  of  justice  were  committed 
to  them.  Complaints  against  them  were  seldom  preferred 
or  attended  to,  and  their  judgments  were  revised  by  the 
“ Chief  ” only  in  capital  cases  or  others  of  great  consequence. 
They  were  not  continued  long  in  one  station.  They  lived 
in  a large  palace  surrounded  by  priests  and  officers,  and 
their  duties  were  an  epitome  of  the  court  of  the  “ Chief.” 

Among  the  non-governing  class  of  the  population, 
nearly  every  one  was  a landholder  or  husbandman.  There 
246 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

were  few  mechanics,  and  hardly  any  distinction  of  profes- 
sion. Every  family  was  acquainted  with  the  most  useful 
arts,  and  contained  within  itself  almost  all  the  necessaries 
of  life.  Even  clothes,  a considerable  article  in  so  rude  a 
climate,  were  generally  the  produce  of  the  husbandman’s 
industry.  He  bartered  the  fruits  of  his  industry  in  Tibet 
for  wool,  which  was  spun,  dyed,  and  woven  by  the  females 
of  the  family,  and  what  remained  was  taken  to  Rangpur 
and  exchanged  for  hogs,  salt  fish,  coarse  linen,  dyes,  spices, 
and  broadcloth.  This  class  “ live  at  home,  cultivate  their 
lands,  pay  taxes,  serve  in  the  wars,  and  beget  children, 
who  succeed  to  honours  to  which  they  themselves  could 
never  aspire.” 

The  regular  army  consisted  of  six  hundred  men  in  pay, 
but  all  lands  in  Bhutan  were  held  by  military  service,  and 
every  man  in  the  country  was  a soldier  when  called  upon. 
The  taxes  were  moderate  in  themselves,  and  rendered  still 
less  oppressive  by  the  simple  manner  of  collecting  them. 
Every  family,  according  to  its  substance,  was  rated  at  a 
particular  sum,  which  was  often  received  in  produce,  and 
thus  the  country  was  unencumbered  with  any  heavy 
expense  for  tax-gatherers.  At  the  same  time  Bogle 
mentions  the  significant  fact  that  the  officers  of  Govern- 
ment received  no  salaries.  The  expenses  of  government, 
therefore,  were  small,  and  the  principal  drains  on  the  public 
treasury  were  an  annual  payment  to  the  Penchen  Rimpochi 
and  the  support  of  the  priests. 

With  regard  to  the  general  character  of  the  people, 
Bogle  writes  : 

“ The  simplicity  of  their  manners,  their  slight  inter- 
course with  strangers  and  strong  sense  of  religion  preserve 
the  Bhutanese  from  many  vices  to  which  more  polished 
nations  are  addicted.  They  are  strangers  to  falsehood 
and  ingratitude.  Theft  and  every  other  species  of  dis- 
honesty to  which  the  lust  of  money  gives  birth  are  little 
known.  Murder  is  uncommon,  and  in  general  is  the  effect 
of  anger,  and  not  covetousness.  The  celibacy  of  a large 
247 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

part  of  the  people,  however,  is  naturally  productive  of 
many  irregularities,  and  the  coldness  of  the  climate  inclines 
them  to  an  excessive  use  of  spirituous  liquor.  The  more 
I see  of  the  Bhutanese  the  more  I am  pleased  with  them. 
The  common  people  are  good-humoured,  downright,  and, 
I think,  thoroughly  trusty.  The  statesmen  have  some  of 
the  art  which  belongs  to  their  profession.  They  are  the 
best  built  race  of  men  I ever  saw,  many  of  them  very 
handsome,  with  complexions  as  fair  as  the  French.” 

In  its  relations  with  Tibet  Bogle  seems  to  have  found 
Bhutan  a dependent  Power;  but  the  Tibetan  authority 
over  the  country  could  not  have  been  very  strong  if  the 
Deb  Raja  was  able  to  exclude  Tibetan  traders  from  his 
country,  as  appears  to  have  been  the  case. 

The  trade  of  the  country  was  almost  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  the  Deb  Raja,  his  ministers  and  governors,  who 
held  the  monopoly  of  it  both  with  Bengal  and  Tibet.  The 
exports  to  Bengal  were  chiefly  ponies,  musk,  cow-tails, 
coarse  red  blankets,  and  striped  woollen  cloths  half  a yard 
wide.  The  imports  were  chiefly  broadcloth,  spices,  dyes, 
Malda  cloth,  coarse  linen,  hogs,  and  salt  fish.  The  great 
trade  with  Bengal  was  carried  on  by  means  of  the  annual 
caravans  to  Rangpur,  from  which  the  Government  of  Bengal 
received  about  Rs.  2000  by  way  of  duty,  and  there  was 
also  trade  with  Dinajpur.  The  great  obstacle  which  Bogle 
found  in  inducing  the  Deb  Raja  to  allow  open  trade  through 
Bhutan  into  Tibet  was  the  monopoly  of  it  which  the  Raja 
enjoyed  along  with  his  ministers,  and  the  profits  of  which, 
he  was  afraid,  the  admission  of  foreign  merchants  would 
lessen.  This  disinclination  to  admit  foreign  traders  was  not 
confined  to  traders  from  Bengal  only ; even  the  merchants 
of  Tibet  were  not  allowed  to  purchase  goods  in  Bhutan, 
beyond  exchanging  salt  and  wool  for  rice. 

The  following  were  the  articles  of  trade  drawn  up  by 
Bogle  with  the  Deb  Raja  : 

“ Whereas  the  trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet  was 
formerly  considerable,  and  all  Hindu  and  Mussalman 
248 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 
merchants  were  allowed  to  trade  into  Nepal,  which  was 
the  centre  of  communication  between  the  two  countries, 
and  whereas  from  the  wars  and  oppressions  in  Nepal  the 
merchants  have  of  late  years  been  unable  to  travel  in  that 
country,  the  Governor  as  well  as  the  Deb  Raja,  united  in 
friendship,  being  desirous  of  removing  these  obstacles  so 
that  merchants  may  carry  on  their  trade  free  and  secure 
as  formerly,  have  agreed  on  the  following  articles  : 

“ That  the  Bhutanese  shall  enjoy  the  privilege  of 
trading  to  Bengal  as  formerly,  and  shall  be  allowed  to 
proceed  either  themselves  or  by  their  gomasthas  to  all 
places  in  Bengal  for  the  purpose  of  trading  and  selling  their 
horses  free  from  duty  or  hindrance. 

“ That  the  duty  hitherto  exacted  at  Rangpur  from  the 
Bhutan  caravans  be  abolished. 

“ That  the  Deb  Raja  shall  allow  all  Hindu  and  Mussal- 
man  merchants  freely  to  pass  and  repass  through  his 
country  between  Bengal  and  Tibet. 

“ That  no  English  or  European  merchants  shall  enter 
the  Deb  Raja’s  dominions. 

“ That  the  exclusive  trade  in  sandal,  indigo,  skins, 
tobacco,  betel-nut,  and  pan  shall  remain  with  the  Bhutanese, 
and  that  the  merchants  be  prohibited  from  importing  the 
same  into  the  Deb  Raja’s  dominions,  and  that  the  Governor 
shall  confirm  this  in  regard  to  indigo  by  an  order  to 
Rangpur.” 

Captain  Turner,  in  the  report  of  his  Mission  in  1783, 
alludes  to  this  “ treaty  ” of  Bogle’s,  and  says  the  Deb 
Raja  acknowledged  its  validity  and  that  there  was  every 
prospect  of  its  provisions  being  kept,  and  in  February 
1786  Purangir  Gosain,  the  Company’s  agent  in  Tibet, 
reported  that  many  merchants  had  found  their  way  from 
Bengal  to  Tashi  Lhunpo  through  Bhutan. 

Soon  after  Bogle’s  return  to  Calcutta  in  June  1775, 
Warren  Hastings  determined  to  prosecute  the  intercourse 
which  had  been  so  happily  opened  with  Bhutan,  and  in 
November  1775  appointed  Hamilton,  who  had  been 
249 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Bogle’s  companion,  to  a second  Mission  to  the  Deb  Raja. 
Hamilton  reached  the  frontier  in  January  1776,  and  was 
invited  by  the  Deb  Raja  to  proceed  to  Poonakha.  He 
endeavoured  to  enter  Bhutan  by  the  Lakhi  Duar  to  Paro, 
but  obstacles  appear  to  have  been  raised  to  his  doing  this,, 
and  he  eventually  followed  Bogle’s  route  by  the  Buxa 
Duar.  He  reached  Poonakha  on  April  6,  1776,  and 
Tashi-cho-jong  in  the  May  of  that  year.  The  chief  object 
of  Hamilton’s  mission  was  to  decide  on  the  claims  of  the 
Deb  Raja  to  the  districts  of  Ambari  Falakata  and  Jul- 
paish,  and  he  came  to  the  conclusion  that  equity  demanded 
their  restoration.  He  also  reported  that  if  restitution 
were  made  the  Deb  Raja  would  probably  be  induced  to 
fulfil  his  agreement  with  Bogle  and  only  levy  moderate 
transit  duties  on  merchandise.  It  is  not  improbable  that, 
as  Eden  remarks,  this  concession  was  made  to  the  Deb 
Raja  more  in  the  interest  of  Warren  Hastings’  policy  than 
on  the  intrinsic  merits  of  the  case,  as  there  can  be  no  doubt 
that  the  claims  of  the  Bhutan  Government  to  the  Falakata 
and  Julpaish  districts  were  quite  untenable. 

In  July  1777  Hamilton  was  sent  on  a third  Mission, 
to  congratulate  the  new  Deb  Raja  on  his  accession. 

The  fourth  Mission,  under  Captain  Turner,  took  place 
in  1783.  In  1779  it  was  arranged,  on  the  invitation  of  the 
Penchen  Rimpochi,  that  Bogle  should  meet  him  in  Pekin. 
Unfortunately,  both  the  Lama  and  Bogle  died  before  this 
project  could  be  carried  into  effect.  Not  long  afterwards 
intelligence  reached  Calcutta  that  the  reincarnation  of  the 
late  Penchen  Rimpochi  had  taken  place,  and  Warren 
Hastings  proposed  to  the  Board  of  Directors  to  take  advan- 
tage of  this  auspicious  event  and  send  a second  deputation 
to  Tibet.  Turner  was  selected  for  this  service,  and  nomi- 
nated on  January  9,  1783,  and  soon  afterwards  left  Calcutta 
on  his  Mission,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Samuel  Davis 
as  draftsman  and  surveyor,  and  Mr.  Robert  Saunders  as 
surgeon.  He  entered  the  hills  by  the  Buxa  Duar,  and 
followed  almost  exactly  the  same  route  as  Bogle  to  Tashi- 
250 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

cho-jong.  During  his  stay  in  Bhutan  with  the  Deb  Raja 
Turner  was  witness  to  a small  civil  war  occasioned  by  the 
rebellion  of  Angdu-phodang,  which  was  ultimately  quelled 
by  the  Deb  Raja.  The  fighting,  he  said,  on  both  sides 
gave  him  a very  poor  idea  of  the  “ military  accomplish- 
ments ” of  the  Bhutanese,  and  though  several  engagements 
took  place  between  the  opposing  parties  very  few  on  either 
side  were  killed  or  wounded.  He  attributes  this  display 
of  martial  weakness  more  to  want  of  discipline  than  to 
actual  lack  of  courage.  The  principal  weapon  in  use  was 
the  bow  and  arrow,  and  Turner  says  the  arrows  were 
sometimes  poisoned.  A few  of  the  soldiers  were  armed 
with  very  unserviceable  matchlocks.  Turner  considers  the 
Bhutanese  to  be  expert  swordsmen,  in  which  he  differs  widely 
from  Macgregor’s  account  of  his  experience  in  the  Bhutan 
war  nearly  a hundred  years  later.  Before  leaving  Bhutan, 
Turner  visited  Wandipore,  or  Angdu-phodang,  and  Poona- 
kha,  and  ultimately  entered  Tibet  by  the  Paro  and  Phari 
routes.  Turner  does  not  add  much  to  the  knowledge  of  the 
country  acquired  by  Bogle,  and  says  little  or  nothing  about 
its  political  institutions.  He  describes  the  Deb  Raja  as  a 
popular  and  prudent  administrator,  and  seems  to  have 
experienced  great  kindness  and  hospitality  at  his  hands. 
The  Deb,  he  says,  was  an  “ intelligent  man,  possessed  with 
a versatility  of  genius  and  spirit  of  inquiry  ” and  fond  of 
mechanics,  and  derived  great  amusement  from  Turner’s 
electric  battery.  The  Raja  “ would  never  venture  to  draw 
even  a spark  himself,  but  would  occasionally  call  in  parties 
to  be  electrified,  and  much  enjoy  the  foolish  figure  they 
made  on  the  sensation  of  a shock.”  The  Raja  also  possessed 
a knowledge  of  medicine  equal  to  any  of  the  physicians 
in  his  dominions,  and  was  interested  in  experimenting 
with  English  drugs  on  himself  and  his  Court  doctor.  This 
interest,  however,  waned  after  an  overdose  of  ipecacuanha. 
At  Poonakha,  the  summer  residence  of  the  Court,  there 
was  a fruit  garden  of  oranges,  lemons,  pomegranates, 
peaches,  apples,  and  walnuts.  Very  excellent  turnips 
251 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

were  grown,  but  the  potatoes  planted  by  Bogle  had 
failed.  The  flower  garden  contained  hollyhocks,  sun- 
flowers, African  marigolds,  nasturtiums,  poppies,  larkspurs, 
and  roses.  At  one  entertainment  he  describes  Turner  had 
strawberries  for  tea,  and  a bull-fight  closed  the  day’s 
amusements.  He  found  the  monasteries  the  educational 
centres  of  the  country.  Boys  were  taken  from  the  villages 
and  educated  there,  and  in  families  containing  more  than 
four  boys  it  was  obligatory  to  dedicate  one  of  them  to  the 
order.  The  monastery  was  the  channel  to  public  office, 
and,  in  fact,  nearly  all  the  Government  officials  were  chosen 
from  men  who  had  been  trained  in  one.  Marriage  was 
an  obstacle  to  any  rise  in  rank,  and  but  few  of  the  official 
class  were  married ; and  this  practice  of  celibacy,  common 
to  the  priestly  and  governing  classes — to  the  one  from 
motives  of  religion,  and  to  the  other  from  motives  of 
self-interest — formed  a natural  bar  to  the  increase  of 
population. 

Neither  from  the  narrative  of  his  Mission  nor  from 
his  report  of  it  to  Warren  Hastings  can  it  be  gathered  that 
Turner  was  charged  with  any  particular  political  business 
in  Bhutan,  but  Eden  says  that  it  appears  from  the  proceed- 
ings of  the  Collector  of  Rangpur  of  June  n,  1789,  that 
he  was  instructed  to  cede  to  Bhutan  the  district  of  Fala- 
kata,  as  the  result,  it  may  be  presumed,  of  Hamilton’s 
report.  The  only  matter  of  any  political  interest,  so  far 
as  Bhutan  is  concerned,  to  be  found  in  his  report,  dated 
March  2,  1784,  of  the  results  of  his  Mission  is  the  following 
opinion  he  records  about  trade  relations  with  Bhutan  : 

“ The  regulations  for  carrying  on  the  commerce  of  the 
Company  through  the  dominions  of  Bhutan  by  means  of 
the  agency  of  native  merchants  were  settled  by  the  treaty 
entered  into  by  Mr.  Bogle  in  the  year  1775.  The  Deb 
Raja  having  acknowledged  to  me  the  validity  of  that 
treaty,  it  became  unnecessary  to  enter  into  another,  since 
no  new  privileges  and  immunities  appear  to  be  requisite 
until  the  commerce  can  be  established  on  a different  footing 
252 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

with  respect  to  the  views  and  interests  of  the  Raja  of 
Bhutan,  by  whose  concurrence  alone  the  proposed  com- 
mercial intercourse  with  Tibet  can  be  made  to  flourish. 
I should  be  sorry  to  suggest  a doubt  of  its  ever  receiving 
a check  from  any  conduct  in  that  Government  of  a hostile 
tendency.” 

There  can  be  no  doubt  in  the  mind  of  any  reader  of  the 
accounts  of  Bogle’s  and  Turner’s  Missions  that  both  these 
officers  were  well  received  and  treated,  and  that  the  general 
disposition  of  the  Bhutan  Government  towards  the  Com- 
pany was  cordial  and  friendly,  and  Turner’s  confidence 
that  the  Bhutan  Government  meant  to  fulfil  its  engagements 
was  not  a foolishly  misplaced  one  at  the  time,  as  Eden 
would  seem  to  imply.  Hastings  actually  succeeded  in 
establishing  Purangir  Gosain  as  a diplomatic  agent  at  the 
Tibetan  Court,  and  Indian  merchants  had  commenced 
by  the  year  1786  to  pass  freely  through  Bhutan  into  Tibet. 
Thus  so  far  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  Bogle’s  Mission 
was  successful,  and  that  the  Bhutan  Government  did  fulfil 
its  engagements.  Unfortunately  the  Nepal  war  with  Tibet, 
which  broke  out  in  1792,  destroyed  all  these  bright  pro- 
spects. The  Tibetans  and  the  Chinese  Government  suspected 
that  we  were  covertly  assisting  the  Nepalese.  We  lost 
their  confidence,  and  the  Tibetan  passes  were  closed  to 
natives  of  India,  most  probably  through  Chinese  influence. 
Thus  the  chief  object  of  Bogle’s  negotiation  was  defeated, 
while  so  far  as  the  further  development  of  trade  with 
Bhutan  itself  was  concerned,  what  had  been  gained  was 
lost  by  the  series  of  frontier  disputes  which  took  place 
between  the  Company  and  the  Bhutan  Government,  and 
the  consequent  rupture  of  the  friendly  feeling  between 
the  two  Governments  which  had  been  established  by 
Bogle’s  and  Turner’s  Missions. 

The  chief  object  of  the  fifth  Mission,  under  Pem- 
berton, was  to  enable  the  Government  to  enter  into 
direct  communication  with  the  Bhutan  Durbar,  as  it  had 
become  evident  that  the  frontier  officers  of  Bhutan  had 
253 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

repeatedly  withheld  from  the  Durbar  complaints  addressed 
to  it  by  Government  on  the  subject  of  frontier  aggressions. 
Accordingly,  after  the  Bhutanese  aggressions  of  1836  had 
been  repelled  the  Dharma  and  Deb  Rajas  were  informed 
that  it  was  the  intention  of  Government  to  despatch  an 
envoy  to  their  capital.  The  replies  to  this  communication, 
which  was  dated  April  6,  1837,  evinced  a desire  on  the 
part  of  the  Deb  to  postpone  the  Mission,  and  he  had  to  be 
informed  that  Government  was  determined  on  the  Mission 
and  intended  to  send  their  envoy  after  the  rainy  season 
was  over. 

The  conduct  of  the  Mission  was  entrusted  to  Pemberton, 
with  Ensign  Blake  as  assistant  and  in  command  of  the 
escort  and  Dr.  Griffiths  as  botanist  and  in  medical  charge. 
The  escort  was  to  consist  of  fifty  men  from  the  Assam 
Seebundy  Corps,  but  owing  to  the  difficulty  in  supplying 
rations  for  this  number  only  twenty-five  men  were  taken. 

Pemberton,  being  anxious  to  obtain  information  con- 
cerning Eastern  Bhutan,  determined  to  enter  Bhutan 
by  the  Banksa  Duar  instead  of  following  Bogle’s  and 
Turner’s  route  by  Buxa.  This  determination  produced 
a good  deal  of  obstruction  on  the  part  of  the  Bhutanese. 
Pemberton  was  detained  for  some  time  at  Dum  Duma, 
on  the  frontier,  waiting  for  letters  from  the  Dewangiri 
Raja,  and  again  at  Dewangiri  after  he  had  reached  it, 
and  every  attempt  was  made  to  induce  him  to  return  to 
the  frontier  and  proceed  by  Buxa  Duar  to  Poonakha. 
This,  however,  he  managed  to  avoid  doing,  and  was  even- 
tually conducted  through  the  Tongsa  Penlop’s  country 
to  the  confines  of  Bhutan  and  Tibet,  and  thence  by  a 
westerly  route  to  Poonakha.  He  had  intended  to  return 
to  Goalpara  by  the  Cheerung  route,  but  permission  to  do 
this  was  refused,  and  he  was  compelled  to  take  the  Buxa 
route  back  to  India.  The  number  of  days  occupied  in 
travelling  from  Dewangiri  to  Poonakha  was  twenty-six, 
but  owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of  the  country  and  the 
difficulty  of  obtaining  porters  the  actual  number  of  days 
254 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

occupied  on  the  journey  was  sixty-eight,  and  Poonakha 
was  not  reached  till  April  i.  During  his  stay  at  Poonakha 
a rebellion  broke  out,  the  object  of  which  was  to  dethrone 
the  Deb  Raja.  Both  Turner  on  the  previous  and  Eden 
on  the  subsequent  Mission  came  in  for  a civil  war.  The 
Mission  was  in  its  progress  through  the  country  received 
everywhere  with  marked  distinction,  was  waited  upon  by 
the  Subahs  of  the  districts  through  which  it  passed,  and 
was  properly  treated  at  Poonakha.  Pemberton,  however, 
did  not  succeed  in  obtaining  the  consent  of  the  Durbar 
to  the  treaty  he  was  instructed  to  proffer,  and  he  was 
refused  permission  to  proceed  to  Tibet.  The  Durbar 
even  refused  to  forward  a letter  to  Lhasa.  The  move- 
ments of  the  members  of  the  Mission  were  closely  watched, 
and  intercourse  by  the  villagers  on  the  route  with  the 
Mission  was  so  closely  prohibited  that  it  was  with  the 
utmost  difficulty  that  any  information  was  obtained  about 
the  country.  The  draft  treaty  which  Pemberton  submitted 
to  the  Bhutan  Government  was  extremely  moderate  in  its 
terms.  It  provided  for  the  same  privilege  of  freely  trading 
in  Bhutan  by  the  subjects  of  the  British-Indian  Govern- 
ment that  the  Bhutanese  already  enjoyed  in  India;  for 
the  mutual  surrender  of  criminals  and  runaway  raiyats  ; 
for  the  more  punctual  payment  of  the  Bhutan  tribute  for 
the  Duars,  and  its  payment  in  cash  instead  of  in  kind,  and 
for  power  for  the  British-Indian  Government  to  take  posses- 
sion of  any  Duar  the  tribute  of  which  should  fall  into 
arrears,  and  hold  the  same  till  the  arrears  were  paid  off ; 
for  decisive  measures  by  the  Deb  Raja  to  stop  aggressions 
by  the  Dewangiri  Raja  and  other  of  his  subjects  on  the 
frontier  ; for  the  settlement  of  boundaries  and  the  appoint- 
ment of  a Bhutanese  agent  at  Gauhati  and  Rangpur.  After 
many  protracted  discussions,  the  Deb  and  Dharma  Rajas 
and  other  members  of  the  council,  except  the  Tongsa 
Penlop,  were  ready  to  sign  the  treaty,  but  owing  to  the 
opposition  of  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  who  divided  the  supreme 
power  in  the  country  with  the  Paro  Penlop,  and  whose 
255 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

interests  were  affected  by  the  arrangements  for  the  punctual 
payment  of  the  tribute  for  the  Assam  Duars,  the  Bhutan 
Government  refused  its  consent. 

But  though  the  Mission  was  politically  a failure, 
Pemberton,  in  spite  of  the  difficulties  thrown  in  his  way, 
succeeded  in  drawing  up  an  admirable  report  on  the 
country  and  its  internal  government. 

In  1862  it  was  finally  determined  to  send  a sixth  Mission 
into  Bhutan,  by  the  most  convenient  route,  without  waiting 
any  longer  for  the  consent  of  the  Bhutan  Durbar.  Eden 
was  selected  by  the  Government  of  India,  and  received 
his  instructions  in  Colonel  Durand’s  letter,  No.  493,  dated 
August  11,  1863. 

In  these  instructions  the  Government  of  India  set 
forth  the  necessity,  which  had  arisen  from  the  repeated 
outrages  of  the  Bhutanese  within  our  territories  and  those 
of  Sikhim  and  Cooch  Behar,  of  revising  and  improving 
the  relations  between  the  British  Government  and  Bhutan, 
and  their  determination  to  send  Eden  to  the  Court  of 
Bhutan  for  the  purpose.  Eden  was  to  explain  “ clearly 
and  distinctly,  but  in  a friendly  and  conciliatory  spirit,” 
to  the  Bhutan  Government  the  reasons  which  rendered  it 
necessary  for  the  British  Government  to  occupy  Ambari 
Falakata  and  withhold  its  revenues,  and  that  the  occupation 
would  continue  only  so  long  as  the  Bhutan  Government 
refused  to  comply  with  our  just  demands  and  restore  the 
captives  and  property  which  had  been  carried  off  from 
British  territory,  Sikhim,  and  Cooch  Behar,  but  that  if 
the  Bhutan  Government  manifested  a desire  to  do  sub- 
stantial justice  the  district  would  be  held  in  pledge  for 
their  future  good  conduct,  and  a sum  equal  to  one-third 
of  its  net  revenues  would  be  paid  to  them,  in  the  same 
manner  as  is  done  with  the  Assam  Duars. 

Inquiry  was  to  be  made  into  any  acts  of  specific  aggres- 
sion complained  of  by  the  Bhutanese,  arrangements  made 
for  the  mutual  rendition  of  criminals,  for  the  reference 
to  the  British  Government  for  settlement  of  any  dispute 
256 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

between  Bhutan  and  the  States  of  Sikhim  and  Cooch 
Behar.  The  subjects  of  keeping  a British  agent  in  Bhutan 
and  of  free  commerce  between  the  two  countries  were  to 
be  approached  if  it  seemed  advisable,  but  negotiations 
on  these  points  were  to  be  entirely  subordinated  to  the 
main  political  objects  of  the  Mission.  All  available  infor- 
mation about  Bhutan  was  to  be  obtained. 

The  above  demands  were  entered  in  a draft  treaty, 
and  Eden  was  further  instructed  that  if  the  Bhutan  Govern- 
ment refused  to  do  substantial  justice  and  to  accede  to 
the  main  principles  stipulated  on  he  was  to  withdraw 
from  the  country  and  inform  the  Bhutan  Government 
that  Ambari  Falakata  would  be  permanently  annexed, 
and  in  the  event  of  further  aggressions  the  British  Govern- 
ment would  take  such  steps  as  might  be  necessary  to  secure 
the  safety  of  their  own  and  the  Sikhim  and  Cooch  Behar 
territories. 

Dr.  Simpson  was  appointed  to  the  medical  charge  of 
the  Mission.  The  Mission  was  to  proceed  by  Darjeeling, 
and  in  the  beginning  of  November  Eden  arrived  there 
to  arrange  his  preparations.  He  could  get  no  reply  from 
the  Dharma  and  Deb  Rajas  to  the  announcement  of  his 
intention  of  entering  Bhutan,  and  it  turned  out  that  the 
country  was  then  undergoing  one  of  its  periodical  rebellions. 
The  Deb  Raja  had  been  unseated  by  the  Poonakha  Jongpen 
and  Tongsa  Penlop,  and  compelled  to  take  refuge  in  the 
Jong  of  Simtoka.  The  Paro  Penlop  was  the  only  powerful 
chief  who  remained  faithful  to  his  cause.  The  insurgent 
party  set  up  a sham  Deb  Raja  to  receive  the  Mission,  but 
at  the  time  it  reached  Poonakha  there  was  in  fact  no  settled 
Government  in  the  country.  The  Government  of  India, 
however,  thought  that  as  the  rebellion  had  been  successful 
and  a substantive  Government  apparently  established  the 
Mission  should  proceed. 

This  state  of  things  accounted  for  the  constant  obstacles 
and  interruptions  which  the  Mission  met  with  on  its  journey. 
It  started  on  December  4,  and  Chebu  Lama  accompanied 
257  R 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

it  as  a sort  of  intermediary.  On  the  nth  the  Mission 
reached  Dalingkote,  and  was  detained  there  till  the  29th.  It 
had  great  difficulty  in  procuring  provisions  ; many  of  the 
coolies,  seeing  the  questionable  manner  in  which  the  Jong- 
pen  received  the  Mission,  ran  away  ; the  Deb  sent  evasive 
answers  to  Eden’s  letters  ; every  attempt  was  made  to 
detain  the  Mission  indefinitely,  and  when  Eden  finally 
moved  on  on  the  29th  he  was  compelled,  for  want  of  trans- 
port, to  leave  most  of  his  tents,  stores,  and  baggage  behind 
and  nearly  half  his  escort.  At  Sipchu  further  obstruction 
and  difficulties  in  obtaining  transport  were  experienced, 
and  he  had  to  consider  whether  to  move  on  with  a further 
diminished  escort  or  to  return.  In  view  of  the  orders  he 
had  received  from  Government  at  Darjeeling,  and  its 
evident  desire  that  the  Mission  should  push  on,  and  think- 
ing that  it  was  unlikely  that  the  Bhutan  Government 
would  dare  to  treat  a British  envoy  with  insult  or  violence, 
Eden  determined  to  proceed,  taking  with  him  only  fifteen 
Sikhs  and  ten  Seebundy  sappers,  and  leaving  the  rest  of 
his  escort,  all  his  heavy  baggage,  his  assistant,  Mr.  Power, 
and  the  commissariat  sergeant,  moonshi,  native  doctor, 
and  all  the  camp-followers  that  could  be  spared  behind. 

Sipchu  was  left  on  February  2,  the  ascent  of  the  pass 
from  Saigon  commenced  on  the  3rd,  and  the  party  halted 
for  the  night  in  the  snow  at  an  elevation  of  8798  feet.  The 
next  day  the  pass  was  crossed  at  10,000  feet,  and  the  descent 
to  Donga-chhu-chhu  (8595  feet)  made  through  snow  with 
much  difficulty.  The  party  halted  the  next  day  on  the 
banks  of  the  Am-mo-chhu,  and  Eden  draws  attention  in 
his  narrative  to  the  advantage  of  a route  into  Tibet 
through  Bhutan  up  this  valley.  The  next  halt  was  made 
at  Sangbay,  and  there  further  obstruction  was  met  with. 

The  Jongpen  refused  all  help,  as  he  had  received  no 
orders  to  allow  the  Mission  to  pass.  A good  many  of  the 
coolies  were  found  to  be  frost-bitten.  Eden  had  to  abandon 
all  idea  of  bringing  on  the  escort  he  had  left  behind,  and 
sent  orders  to  Mr.  Power  to  return  to  Darjeeling,  taking 
25S 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

back  all  the  party  and  stores  left  at  Sipchu  and  all  the 
escort  left  at  Dalingkote,  except  a guard  of  five  Seebundys 
over  the  stores,  which  were  placed  in  charge  of  the  Jongpen. 
At  Shay-bee,  the  next  halting-place,  the  Mission  was  met 
by  some  Zinkaffs  from  the  Durbar,  who  gave  out  that  they 
had  been  ordered  to  turn  the  Mission  back.  On  Eden 
sending  for  them,  it  turned  out  that  they  had  no  letters 
from  the  Durbar  for  him,  but  two  to  the  Jongpen  of  Daling- 
kote, which  they  showed.  One  letter  was  full  of  professions 
of  friendship  for  the  British  Government,  and  instructed 
the  Jongpen  to  settle  any  dispute  Eden  might  have  with 
him  about  the  frontier,  but  said  not  a word  about  the 
Mission  being  allowed  to  go  forward  or  being  turned  back. 
The  other  was  a most  violent  and  intemperate  production, 
threatening  the  Jongpen  with  loss  of  life  for  having  per- 
mitted the  Mission  to  cross  the  frontier,  and  ordering  him 
to  pay  a fine  of  Rs.  70  to  each  of  the  Zinkaffs,  and  to  entice 
Eden  to  return,  but  if  he  could  not  get  rid  of  him,  to  send 
him  on  by  the  Samchee  and  Dongna  road.  The  Zinkaffs 
tried  to  get  Eden  to  go  back  to  get  on  to  this  route,  but 
as  he  was  already  only  two  days  from  Samchee,  and  to 
retrace  his  steps  would  have  meant  a journey  of  fifteen 
days,  he  declined,  and  left  Shay -bee  on  February  10  for 
Paro.  The  Mission  had  first  to  cross  the  Saigon-la  Pass 
(12,150  feet),  and  camp  in  snow  at  11,800  feet.  Though 
the  thermometer  registered  13 0 none  of  the  natives,  Sikhs 
or  Bengalis,  suffered  from  the  cold.  After  descending  into 
the  Hah  Valley  the  Mission  was  delayed  in  crossing  the 
next  pass  on  its  route,  the  Che-la  (12,490  feet),  by  the  heavy 
snow.  On  the  19th  Eden,  hearing  that  messengers  from 
the  Durbar  were  on  their  way  to  stop  him,  determined  to 
make  the  effort,  though  the  snow  was  not  really  in  a proper 
state  for  the  attempt.  The  march  was  nearly  ending  in 
disaster.  The  snow  was  soft,  and  varying  from  three  to 
eight  feet  in  depth ; men,  horses,  and  mules  were  constantly 
sinking  in  it ; and  when  the  top  of  the  pass  was  reached  at 
six  o’clock  in  the  evening  it  was  found  that  the  descent 

259 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

was  even  more  difficult  on  account  of  the  snow.  Evening 
came  on  while  the  party  were  still  on  the  pass,  and  to  have 
halted  there  for  the  night  would  have  meant  the  death 
of  every  man  in  the  camp,  as  there  was  no  going  to  the  right 
or  the  left.  There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  drive  the  coolies 
on,  and  by  eleven  o’clock,  after  progressing  at  the  rate  of 
a quarter  of  a mile  an  hour,  the  Mission  was  fortunate 
enough  to  reach  a forest  where  the  coolies  could  bivouac. 
Eden,  however,  with  some  of  the  coolies,  pushed  on,  and 
reached  the  nearest  village  at  one  o’clock  in  the  morning, 
after  having  marched  through  deep  snow  continuously 
for  fifteen  hours  without  food.  Luckily  the  weather  had 
been  clear,  with  a bright  moon.  The  next  morning  the 
Mission  was  met  by  the  Zinkaffs  who  had  been  sent  to 
turn  it  back.  They  delivered  a most  impertinent  message, 
saying  that  they  had  been  sent  to  go  back  with  Eden  to 
the  frontier  “ to  rearrange  with  him  the  frontier  boundaries 
and  to  receive  charge  again  of  the  resumed  Assam  Duars  ” ; 
after  this  had  been  done  our  further  demands  were  to  be 
inquired  into,  and  if  these  Zinkaffs  “ considered  it  neces- 
sary ” the  Mission  was  to  be  allowed  to  go  on  to  Poonakha. 
Eden  said  he  would  do  nothing  of  the  kind,  but  would 
either  proceed  to  Poonakha  or  return  to  Darjeeling  and 
report  to  his  Government  that  the  Bhutan  Durbar  declined 
to  receive  him.  Then  the  Zinkaffs  begged  him  to  proceed. 
The  letter  they  delivered  from  the  Deb  Raja  was  of  the 
usual  evasive  character,  declaring  that  the  Deb  never 
declined  to  receive  the  Mission,  but  that  it  would  be  better 
to  investigate  complaints  on  the  frontier.  As  the  letter 
contained  no  definite  refusal  to  receive  the  Mission,  Eden 
determined  to  push  on,  and  reached  Paro  on  February  22. 
Here  again  the  Mission  was  detained,  and  its  reception  was 
at  first  unfriendly.  The  ex-Penlop,  an  old  man,  informed 
Eden  that  he  was  far  from  acknowledging  the  power  of 
the  present  Deb,  and  that  he  had  only  suspended  hostilities 
on  the  side  of  the  ex-Deb  on  account  of  the  approach  of 
the  Mission.  The  real  power,  he  said,  just  then  rested 
260 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 


with  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  and  the  Dharma  and  Deb  Rajas 
and  councillors  were  mere  puppets  in  his  hands.  Finally 
the  old  Penlop  and  his  adopted  son,  the  young  Penlop, 
became  quite  friendly,  and  after  the  Mission  had  been 
sixteen  days  at  Paro  without  any  communication  having 
been  received  from  the  Deb  Raja  the  old  Penlop  advised 
Eden  to  proceed,  gave  him  guides,  and  promised  to  arrange 
to  send  on  his  letters. 

At  the  next  stage  more  messengers  arrived  from  the 
Durbar,  and  the  same  efforts  were  made  as  before  to  induce 
the  Mission  to  return,  with  the  same  result.  At  Simtoka 
the  Mission  found  the  ex-Deb  in  retirement.  He  declined 
to  receive  a visit  from  Chebu  Lama,  on  the  grounds  that 
any  member  of  the  Mission  holding  any  communication 
with  him  might  excite  the  suspicion  of  the  Durbar  against 
it,  which  was  considerate  of  him.  After  crossing  the 
Dokyong-la  Pass  (10,019  feet)  the  Poonakha  Valley  came 
in  view,  and  on  March  15  the  Mission  reached  Poonakha. 
There  the  party  were  met  by  a messenger  to  say  that  they 
must  not  approach  by  the  road  which  passed  under  the  palace 
gates,  and  they  were  sent  to  their  camping-ground  by  a 
route  so  precipitous  that  they  had  great  difficulty  in  making 
the  descent.  The  subsequent  ill-treatment  of  the  Mission, 
and  how  Eden  was  forced  under  compulsion  to  sign  an 
agreement  to  surrender  the  Assam  Duars,  how  the  Mission 
narrowly  escaped  from  worse  treatment  by  forced  night- 
marches  from  Poonakha  to  Paro,  were  reported  con- 
fidentially to  Government,  and  the  details  are  not  supplied 
in  his  general  report.  They  are  to  be  found  in  Rennie’s 
“ History  of  the  Bhutan  War.”  The  opposition  to  the 
Mission  was  entirely  directed  by  the  then  Tongsa  Penlop, 
father  of  Sir  Ugyen,  who  was  no  doubt  actuated  by  his  desire 
to  get  back  the  Assam  Duars,  which  were  part  of  his  chief- 
ship,  and  the  annexation  of  which  had  affected  his  personal 
interests  even  more  closely  than  those  of  the  Durbar.  J udging 
by  subsequent  events,  it  would  have  been  wiser,  no  doubt, 
for  Eden  to  have  returned  to  Darjeeling  instead  of  pushing 
261 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

his  way  to  Poonakha.  He  had  received  quite  enough 
opposition  before  crossing  the  Cho-la  Pass,  certainly  by 
the  time  he  had  reached  Paro,  to  justify  his  doing  so.  The 
Government  of  India  would  have  had  sufficient  cause  to 
annex  the  Duars,  as  they  eventually  did,  and  the  indignities 
to  the  Mission  would  have  been  spared.  At  the  same 
time,  one  cannot  help  admiring  the  courage  with  which 
Eden  faced  the  difficulties  in  his  way,  his  determination 
to  leave  the  Bhutan  Government  no  loophole  by  which 
they  could  evade  the  responsibility  of  the  Mission  not 
reaching  them,  and  the  patience  with  which  he  endeavoured 
to  gain  from  the  Durbar  the  terms  he  had  been  sent  to 
obtain. 

The  Mission  left  Poonakha  on  March  29,  and  returned 
to  Darjeeling  through  Paro,  where  it  stayed  one  day  on 
April  2.  The  same  day  the  insurrection  broke  out  again. 

On  the  termination  of  the  Tibet  Mission,  and  to  mark 
the  approval  of  the  British  Government  of  the  friendly 
attitude  of  the  Bhutanese  and  the  assistance  rendered 
by  the  Tongsa  Penlop  in  bringing  about  a friendly  settle- 
ment, the  King-Emperor,  in  1905,  was  pleased  to  confer 
on  Ugyen  Wang-chuk  a Knight  Commandership  of  the 
Indian  Empire.  I was  in  consequence  deputed  by  the 
Government  of  India  to  present  the  insignia  of  the  order 
to  the  Tongsa  at  Poonakha. 

The  Mission  was  accompanied  by  Major  Rennick  and 
Mr.  Paul,  and  an  escort  of  the  40th  Pathans.  The  route 
followed  was  from  Gangtak  via  Chumbi,  Hah,  Paro,  and 
Tashi-cho-jong  to  Poonakha. 

This  Mission  was  accorded  a warm,  even  enthusiastic, 
welcome,  and  succeeded  in  establishing  relations  of  the  most 
friendly  character  with  the  Bhutanese,  who  not  many  years 
before  were  bitterly  hostile  towards  the  British  Government. 
After  the  ceremony  at  Poonakha,  the  Mission,  at  the  invita- 
tion of  Sir  Ugyen,  visited  Tongsa  and  Bya-gha,  where  they 
were  most  hospitably  entertained  by  the  Tongsa  Penlop.  The 
Mission  returned  from  Tashi-cho-jong  via  Lingshi  and  Tibet. 

262 


BRITISH  MISSIONS  TO  BHUTAN 

In  1907  I was  deputed  on  my  second  Mission  to  Poona- 
kha, to  be  present,  as  the  representative  of  the  Government 
of  India,  at  the  installation  of  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk  as 
Hereditary  Maharaja  of  Bhutan. 

I was  accompanied  by  Major  Rennick,  Captain  Hyslop, 
and  Mr.  Campbell,  the  escort  being  provided  by  the  62nd 
Punjabis. 

The  route  followed  was  from  Gangtak  via  Chumbi, 
Phari,  over  the  Temu-la  to  Paro,  and  thence  by  the  former 
route  to  Poonakha. 

Nothing  could  have  been  more  cordial  than  my  recep- 
tion. The  members  of  the  Mission  divided  at  Poonakha. 
I returned  via  Paro  to  the  Hah  Valley,  and  thence  down 
the  Dongna-chhu  to  the  Duars,  Mr.  Campbell  returning 
with  the  escort  to  Chumbi,  and  Major  Rennick  and  Captain 
Hyslop  returning  via  Buxa. 


263 


CHAPTER  XXI 

BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN  FROM  1772 


Nepalese  invasion  of  Tibet,  1792.  The  Athara  Duars.  Friction 
with  Bhutan.  Our  occupation  of  the  Bengal  Duars.  Expedi- 
tion against  Bhutan.  Loss  of  guns.  Treaty  of  Rawa  Pani. 
Whole  of  Duars  taken  by  us.  Tongsa  Penlop  accompanies  expe- 
dition to  Lhasa.  Sir  Ugyen’s  visit  to  Calcutta.  Sir  Ugyen 
elected  Maharaja. 

So  far  as  records  show,  the  earliest  relations  between  the 
Government  of  India  and  Bhutan  began  in  1772.  In  that 
year  the  Bhutanese  set  up  a claim  to  Cooch  Behar,  invaded 
the  State,  and  carried  off  the  Raja,  Durunder  Narain,  and 
his  brother  the  Dewan  Deo.  The  Cooch  Behar  family 
solicited  the  aid  of  the  Government  of  India,  which  was 
at  once  accorded,  and  a small  force,  under  Captain  Jones, 
was  sent  to  drive  the  Bhutanese  across  the  frontier. 
The  expedition  was  successful.  Captain  Jones  drove  the 
Bhutanese  out  of  Cooch  Behar,  and  captured  the  forts 
of  Daling,  Chichacotta,  and  Buxa.  The  Bhutanese  then 
appealed  for  aid  to  the  Tashi  Lama,  who  at  the  time  was 
Regent  of  Tibet  during  the  minority  of  the  Delai  Lama. 
The  Lama  addressed  a very  friendly  letter  to  the  Governor- 
General,  Warren  Hastings,  which  was  read  in  Council  on 
March  29,  1774,  in  which  he  sued  for  peace  on  behalf  of 
the  Government  of  Bhutan,  and  suggested  that  though 
they  deserved  punishment  they  had  been  sufficiently 
chastised.  In  this  letter  Bhutan  is  claimed  as  a dependency 
of  Tibet.  A treaty  of  peace  with  Bhutan  followed,  which 
was  signed  at  Fort  William  on  April  25,  1774. 

264 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

In  this  treaty  the  Company  agreed  to  deliver  up  territory 
taken  from  Bhutan  during  the  war,  exacting  from  the 
Bhutan  Government  an  annual  tribute  for  the  Chichacotta 
province  of  five  Tangan  horses,  which  was  the  acknowledg- 
ment paid  to  the  “ Bihar  Raja.”  The  Bhutan  Govern- 
ment were  to  deliver  up  the  Cooch  Behar  Raja  and  his 
brother.  The  Bhutanese  merchants  were  to  be  allowed 
the  same  privileges  of  trade  free  of  duties  as  formerly,  with 
permission  for  their  caravans  to  go  to  Rangpur  annually. 
The  Deb  Raja  was  to  abstain  from  encouraging  incursions 
into  the  Company’s  country,  from  molesting  raiyats  who 
had  come  under  the  Company’s  protection,  and  to  engage 
to  deliver  up  raiyats  who  might  desert  from  the  Company’s 
territories  ; to  submit  all  disputes  between  Bhutan  and 
the  Company’s  subjects  to  the  decision  of  the  Company’s 
magistrate  ; to  refuse  shelter  to  any  Sunniassees  hostile 
to  the  English,  and  to  allow  English  troops  to  follow  them 
into  Bhutan ; and  to  permit  the  Company  to  cut  timber 
in  the  forests  under  the  hills,  and  to  protect  the  wood- 
cutters. 

Warren  Hastings  took  advantage  of  the  Penchen 
Rimpochi’s  friendly  letter  to  send  a Mission  to  Tibet  with 
the  view  of  establishing  communication  with  the  Court 
at  Lhasa  and  opening  trade  with  that  country.  Bogle, 
who  was  sent  in  charge  of  the  Mission,  was  also  charged 
with  the  duty  of  negotiating  with  the  Bhutan  Durbar  for 
the  opening  of  a trade  route  through  their  country  to 
Tibet.  The  Mission  started  on  May  6,  1774,  and  Bogle 
was  successful  in  gaining  the  consent  of  the  Deb  Raja  to 
the  passage  of  trade  free  of  duty  through  his  country. 
Articles  of  trade  were  drawn  up  between  the  two  Govern- 
ments, and  for  a few  years  trade  from  Bengal  was  actually 
allowed  to  pass  through  Bhutan  into  Tibet.  A full  account 
of  Bogle’s  Mission,  so  far  as  it  related  to  Bhutan,  is  given 
in  another  chapter. 

Two  small  Missions  under  Hamilton  almost  imme- 
diately followed  on  this  important  Mission  of  Bogle.  In 
265 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

1775  Warren  Hastings  sent  Hamilton  into  Bhutan  to 
examine  into  the  claims  of  the  Deb  Raja  to  Falakata  and 
Julpaish,  in  the  present  Jalpaiguri  district.  Hamilton 
came  to  a conclusion  in  favour  of  the  Deb  Raja’s  rights. 
In  1777  he  was  again  sent  to  Bhutan  to  congratulate  a 
new  Deb  Raja  on  his  succession.  In  1779  Warren  Hastings, 
still  keeping  steadily  in  view  his  policy  of  maintaining 
regular  intercourse  with  Bhutan  and  Tibet,  determined 
to  send  Bogle  again  as  envoy  to  the  Penchen  Rimpochi 
in  Tibet,  but  as  news  arrived  that  the  Rimpochi  was 
about  to  take  a journey  to  Pekin  the  Mission  was  post- 
poned ; and  it  was  afterwards  arranged,  at  the  suggestion 
of  the  Lama,  with  the  consent  of  the  Emperor  of  China, 
that  Bogle  should  meet  the  Lama  at  Pekin.  This  plan 
was  most  unfortunately  frustrated  by  the  death  of  the 
Penchen  Rimpochi,  at  Pekin,  from  small-pox,  and  not 
long  afterwards  Bogle  died  in  Calcutta  of  cholera.  There 
can  be  little  doubt  that  had  this  meeting  with  the  Penchen 
Rimpochi  taken  place  under  such  auspicious  circum- 
stances the  whole  course  of  our  subsequent  relations  with 
Tibet  and  Bhutan  would  have  been  different. 

A few  years  later  the  reincarnation  of  the  Penchen 
Rimpochi  in  Tibet  was  reported  to  Warren  Hastings ; the 
Governor-General  at  once  seized  this  further  opportunity 
offered  him  of  prosecuting  his  policy  with  the  Lhasa  Govern- 
ment, despatched  Captain  Turner  in  1783  as  his  envoy 
to  the  Court  of  the  infant  Lama,  and  made  him  the  bearer 
of  the  congratulations  of  the  Indian  Government  on  the 
event.  Turner  was  also  charged  with  letters  to  the  Deb 
Raja,  and  it  would  appear  from  his  report  that  he  was  to 
stimulate  the  Bhutan  Durbar  to  keep  to  its  engagements 
under  the  articles  of  trade  concluded  by  Bogle.  Eden 
also  says  that  Turner  was  instructed  to  cede  to  the  Govern- 
ment of  Bhutan  the  district  of  Falakata,  in  Jalpaiguri. 
Turner’s  Mission  to  Tibet  was  the  last  for  many  years. 
So  far  Warren  Hastings’  policy  had  been  successful.  He 
had  succeeded  in  establishing  friendly  relations  with 
266 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 
Bhutan  and  Tibet,  in  opening  trade  through  the  one  country 
to  the  other,  and  in  having  a diplomatic  agent,  Purangir 
Gosain,  at  the  Tibetan  Court. 

In  1792  the  Nepalese  invaded  Tibet.  The  Chinese 
sent  an  expedition  to  the  assistance  of  Tibet,  the  result  of 
which  was  that  the  Gurkhas  were  driven  out  of  the  country, 
and  sustained  a crushing  defeat  from  the  Chinese  general 
in  their  own  country  only  twenty  miles  from  Katmandu. 
The  results  of  this  war  had  a most  unfortunate  effect  on 
our  relations  with  Tibet.  The  Chinese  suspected  that 
the  Indian  Government  had  supported  the  Nepalese,  and, 
in  consequence,  closed  all  the  passes  of  Tibet  to  natives 
of  India,  and  they  have  remained  closed  ever  since.  While 
this  was  the  end  of  Hastings’  policy  in  Tibet,  our  friendly 
relations  with  Bhutan  began  about  the  same  time  to  wane, 
and  after  the  year  1825,  when  the  first  Burmese  War  broke 
out,  to  seriously  suffer  from  the  constant  aggressions  com- 
mitted by  the  Bhutanese  on  our  frontier.  The  situation 
ultimately  became  impossible,  and  had  to  be  put  an  end 
to  by  the  Bhutan  War  of  1865.  A full  account  of  these 
troubles  will  be  found  in  Eden’s  report  of  his  Mission  to 
Bhutan  in  1863. 

The  earliest  claim  to  any  portion  of  British  territory 
raised  by  the  Bhutan  Government  was  to  a portion  of  the 
Zamindari  of  Baikantpore,  including  the  mahals  of  Ain 
Falakata  and  Julpaish.  From  Markham's  account,  this 
claim  appears  to  have  been  made  as  far  back  as  1775,  and 
was  one  of  the  objects  of  Hamilton’s  Mission.  Eden  dates 
the  claim  1787,  but  it  was  no  doubt  made  earlier,  though 
the  territory  was  not  ceded  till  1789.  Eden  maintains 
that  the  claim  was  untenable,  and  it  seems  probable  that 
the  Government,  anxious  to  conciliate  the  Deb  Raja  and 
to  further  their  trade  policy  with  Tibet,  were  too  ready 
to  accept  Hamilton’s  report,  which  was  favourable  to  the 
Bhutan  Durbar.  In  1787  claims  were  also  raised  to  the 
mahal  of  Holaghat  on  behalf  of  the  Bijni  Raja,  and 
to  the  mahal  of  Goomah  on  behalf  of  the  Zamindar  of 
267 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Beddragong ; but  the  respective  owners  of  these  mahals  re- 
pudiated the  claims,  and  they  were  dropped.  In  1815  some 
dispute  arose  about  frontier  boundaries,  and  Babu  Bishen 
Kant  Bose  was  deputed  to  the  Court  of  the  Dharma  and 
Deb  Rajas  to  settle  it.  He  has  left  an  interesting  report 
of  the  state  of  the  country  as  he  found  it.  From  this  year 
till  1825-26  there  is  no  account  of  any  communication 
with  the  Bhutanese. 

The  first  Burmese  War  broke  out  at  this  time.  We 
drove  the  Burmese  out  of  Assam,  assumed  the  government 
of  Lower  Assam,  and  in  becoming  possessors  of  this  province 
we  also  found  we  had  inherited  the  very  unsatisfactory 
relations  of  the  Assamese  with  the  Bhutanese.  The  nature 
of  these  relations  must  be  briefly  explained  in  order  to 
understand  what  follows.  At  the  base  of  the  lower  ranges 
of  the  Bhutan  hills  there  is  a narrow  strip  of  country,  from 
ten  to  twenty  miles  in  breadth,  and  extending  from  the 
Dhunseeree  River,  in  Assam,  on  the  east,  to  the  River 
Teesta,  or  frontier  of  the  Darjeeling  district,  on  the  west. 
This  tract,  which  is  by  nature  singularly  rich  and  fertile, 
was  known  as  the  Bhutan  Duars,  or  Passes.  Eighteen  passes 
entered  it  from  the  hills,  each  under  the  authority  of  a 
Jongpen,  and  attached  to  each  jurisdiction  was  the  portion 
of  the  tract  lying  below  the  pass,  and  bearing  its  name. 
Thus  the  whole  locality  came  to  be  known  as  the  Athara 
Duars,  or  Eighteen  Passes.  Of  these  Duars,  eleven  were 
situated  between  the  Teesta  and  the  Monass.  The  other 
seven  were  on  the  frontier  of  the  Darrang  (Goalpara)  and 
Kamrup  districts  of  Assam,  and  were  generally  called  the 
Assam  Duars,  those  bordering  on  the  Bengal  frontier  being 
called  the  Bengal  Duars.  The  Bhutanese  had  managed 
to  wrest  the  Bengal  Duars  from  the  Mohammedan  rulers 
of  the  country,  probably  soon  after  the  foundation  of  the 
present  Bhutan  State.  They  never  obtained  absolute 
possession  of  the  Assam  Duars,  but  by  their  outrages  and 
incursions  they  succeeded  in  forcing  the  Assam  princes 
to  purchase  security  by  making  over  their  Duars  to  the 
268 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

Bhutanese  in  consideration  of  an  annual  payment  of  yak- 
tails,  ponies,  musk,  gold-dust,  blankets,  and  knives  to  the 
estimated  value  of  Narrainee  Rs.  4785.4. 

The  seven  Assam  Duars  were  : 

1.  Booree  Goomah.  5.  Chappagorie. 

2.  Railing.  6.  Chappakamar. 

3.  Churkolla.  7.  Bijni. 

4.  Banksa. 


The  eleven  Bengal  Duars  were  : 


1.  Dalingkote. 

2.  Zumerkote. 

3.  Chamurchi. 

4.  Suckee. 

5.  Buxa. 

6.  Bhulka. 


7.  Bara. 

8.  Goomar. 

9.  Keepo. 

10.  Cherrung. 

11.  Bagh  or  Bijni. 


It  was  from  these  Duars  that  the  Penlops  in  whose 
jurisdiction  they  lay,  and  under  the  Penlops  the  Jongpens, 
and  under  the  Jongpens  the  inferior  frontier  officers,  who 
were  sometimes  Assamese  and  Kacharis,  derived  their 
support.  When  we  occupied  Lower  Assam  the  British 
Government  renewed  and  continued  the  engagements 
made  by  the  Assamese  with  the  Bhutan  Government. 
These  arrangements  were  complicated,  and  contained  in 
themselves  the  elements  of  constant  dispute.  The  tribute 
due  from  Bhutan  was  payable  in  kind,  and  as  an  inevit- 
able consequence  questions  constantly  arose  as  to  the  value 
of  the  articles  given  and  received.  But  this  was  not  the 
only  source  of  complication.  The  five  Kamrup  Duars 
were  held  exclusively  by  the  Bhutanese,  and  were  entirely 
under  their  management,  but  the  two  Darrang  Duars  of 
Booree  Goomah  and  Railing  were  held  under  a very  peculiar 
tenure,  the  British  Government  occupying  them  from  July 
to  November  in  each  year,  and  the  Bhutan  Government 
for  the  remainder  of  the  year. 

Owing  to  the  articles  sent  for  tribute  failing  to  realise 
269 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

the  value  at  which  they  were  appraised  by  the  Bhutanese, 
each  year’s  tribute  fell  short  of  the  fixed  amount,  and  a 
constantly  accruing  balance  was  shown  against  them. 
Our  demands  for  the  liquidation  of  these  arrears  were  met 
by  evasion,  aggression,  and  the  plunder  and  abduction  of 
our  subjects  residing  on  the  frontier.  The  long  series  of 
such  outrages  that  ensued,  commencing  from  the  attack 
on  Chetgaree,  in  Darrang,  on  October  22,  1828,  down  to 
1864,  are  given  in  some  detail  in  Eden’s  report  on  his 
Mission.  It  will  be  sufficient  to  say  that  between  1828 
and  1836  they  involved  five  serious  outrages  in  which 
British  subjects  were  carried  off  and  our  outposts  attacked, 
necessitating  as  many  military  expeditions  by  our  frontier 
forces,  the  attachment  of  the  Booree  Goomah  Duar  from 
1828  till  1834,  when  it  was  restored  to  the  Deb  Raja,  the 
raising  of  the  Assam  Seebundy  Corps  (now  the  2/8th  Gurkha 
Rifles)  in  1834  f°r  the  protection  of  the  frontier,  and  the 
temporary  attachment  of  the  Banksa  Duar  in  1836. 

The  defeat  of  the  Dewangiri  Raja  by  Lieutenant 
Mathews,  and  the  attachment  of  the  Banksa  Duar,  to  some 
extent  brought  the  Bhutan  Government  to  their  senses. 
The  Regent  and  the  Tongsa  Penlop  addressed  our  Agent, 
declaring  that  none  of  the  letters  of  remonstrance  addressed 
to  the  Bhutan  Government  had  ever  been  received,  and 
requesting  that  all  arrears  of  revenue  might  be  taken  from 
the  Banksa  Duar,  and  the  Duar  itself  restored.  Many  of 
the  offenders  who  had  been  engaged  in  outrages  on  our 
frontier  were  delivered  up.  Our  Government  promised 
to  surrender  the  Duar  on  an  engagement  being  entered 
into  for  its  better  management  and  the  extradition  of 
offenders  against  our  Government.  Unfortunately,  this 
agreement  was  made  with  subordinate  officials,  as  repre- 
sentatives of  the  Bhutan  Government,  who  had,  says 
Eden,  no  higher  rank  than  that  of  common  “ chaprasis,” 
and  was  never  ratified  by  the  Deb  Raja,  though  the  Duar 
was  surrendered  in  anticipation  of  his  doing  so.  The 
belief,  however,  that  all  communications  from  our  Govern- 
270 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

ment  were  withheld  from  their  Durbar  by  the  Bhutanese 
frontier  officials  led  to  the  despatch  of  Captain  Pemberton 
as  our  envoy  to  the  Bhutan  Court  in  1837.  This  Mission 
was  infructuous.  The  draft  treaty  which  our  envoy  sub- 
mitted to  the  Durbar  was  agreed  to  by  the  Deb  and 
Dharma  Rajas  and  the  rest  of  the  council,  except  the 
Tongsa  Penlop,  who  was  then  the  real  authority  in  the 
country,  and,  at  his  instigation,  was  finally  rejected. 

In  1839  the  Bhutanese  resumed  their  outrages  on  the 
frontier,  and  began  by  carrying  off  twelve  British  subjects, 
one  of  whom  died  of  his  wounds ; another  was  murdered 
because  he  attempted  to  escape ; and  a third  was  thrown 
down  a precipice  because  he  refused  to  work.  Bhutan 
itself  was  at  this  time  in  a state  of  anarchy  and  civil  war. 
The  Duars  were  becoming  depopulated.  The  Governor- 
General’s  Agent  proposed  to  remedy  this  state  of  things 
by  our  taking  the  Duars  into  farm  and  under  our  direct 
management.  The  proposal  was  approved  of  by  the 
Government  of  India,  and  a native  officer  was  about  to  be 
sent  into  Bhutan  to  obtain  the  Deb  Raja’s  consent,  when 
another  serious  aggression  was  committed.  Five  villages 
were  seized  ; the  Cutcherry  of  the  Zamindar  of  Khoomtoghat 
was  attacked  and  plundered,  and  one  of  his  servants  taken 
off.  The  two  eastern  Duars,  Railing  and  Booree  Goomah, 
were  then  formally  attached  and  occupied  by  our  officers. 
Not  long  afterwards  letters  came  from  the  Dharma  and 
Deb  Rajas  asking  that  the  attached  Duars  might  be  released 
and  an  envoy  be  sent  into  Bhutan.  Colonel  Jenkins  wished 
to  take  this  opportunity  to  push  the  plan  of  taking  a farm 
of  the  Duars,  but  Lord  Auckland  was  averse  to  sending 
another  Mission  into  the  country  at  a time  of  such  internal 
disorder  and  when  the  parties  contending  for  superiority 
were  almost  equally  divided  in  strength,  and  he  preferred 
sending  a letter  of  remonstrance  and  serious  warning  to 
the  Deb  Raja,  intimating  that  if  Bhutan  continued  much 
longer  in  its  present  state  of  anarchy  and  inability  to 
manage  its  frontier  it  would  become  necessary  to  annex 
271 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

the  Duars.  This  was  no  idle  threat,  and  not  long  after- 
wards, on  September  6,  1841,  on  the  recept  of  a further 
report  from  the  Agent,  Colonel  Jenkins,  depicting  the 
miserable  state  of  the  Assam  Duars,  their  state  of  increasing 
disorganisation,  and  the  almost  entire  depopulation  of  the 
tract  under  the  Bhutan  Government,  the  remaining  Assam 
Duars  were  permanently  attached,  and  a sum  of  Rs.  10,000 
paid  per  annum  to  the  Bhutan  Government  as  compensation 
for  the  loss  they  sustained  by  this  resumption.  No  written 
agreement  was  made  regarding  this  arrangement. 

In  1842,  at  the  request  of  the  Bhutan  Government, 
we  took  charge  of  the  Falakata  mahal,  as  they  found  them- 
selves unable  to  manage  the  estate  by  their  own  officers, 
and  held  ourselves  responsible  for  due  payment  to  the 
Bhutanese  of  the  net  proceeds  of  the  property.  This 
arrangement  continued  till  1859,  when  the  mahal  was 
attached. 

After  this  annexation  of  the  Assam  Duars  comparative 
tranquillity  reigned  in  this  part  of  the  frontier.  Outrages, 
however,  continued  in  the  Bengal  Duars,  and  Eden  writes 
regarding  them  : “ The  aggressions  committed  from  the 
Bengal  Duars  on  our  territory  and  on  Cooch  Behar,  and 
patiently  borne  by  us,  have  been  unparalleled  in  the 
history  of  nations.  For  thirty  years  scarcely  a year  has 
passed  without  the  occurrence  of  several  outrages,  any 
one  of  which  would  have  fully  justified  the  adoption  of 
a policy  of  reprisal  or  retaliation.”  Dr.  Campbell  says 
on  the  same  topic : “ The  whole  history  of  our  connec- 
tion with  Bhutan  is  a continuous  record  of  injuries  to  our 
subjects  all  along  the  frontier  of  250  miles,  of  denials  of 
justice,  and  of  acts  of  insult  to  our  Government.” 

Between  1837  and  1864  thirty  cases  of  plundering 
British  subjects  were  reported,  and  no  fewer  than  eighteen 
elephants  were  carried  off  from  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood of  the  Jalpaiguri  cantonment.  As  many  as  twenty- 
five  British  subjects  were  reported  by  the  police  to  have 
been  carried  off  into  slavery.  During  the  same  period 
272 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

fifty  outrages  were  committed  in  the  Cooch  Behar  territory, 
in  one  of  which  Rs.  20,936  worth  of  property  was  said  to 
have  been  plundered,  and  altogether  sixty-nine  residents 
of  that  State  were  kidnapped. 

The  Dewangiri  Raja  (Dungl’sang  Sangsub),  acting  with 
the  connivance  of  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  was  largely  concerned 
in  the  commission  of  these  outrages.  In  compliance  with 
representations  from  our  Government,  the  Deb  Raja 
ordered  the  Tongsa  Penlop  to  pay  into  the  Treasury  a sum 
of  money  equal  to  half  the  value  of  the  property  plundered 
by  his  relative  and  subordinate,  the  Dewangiri  Raja.  This 
led  the  Penlop  to  address  two  insolent  letters  to  Colonel 
Jenkins  complaining  that  the  Agent  should  not  have 
addressed  the  Deb  Raja  direct,  and  arrogating  to  himself 
equal  powers  with  the  Deb  Raja.  “ I am  a Raja  like  the 
Deb  Raja,”  he  wrote ; “ how  can  he  possibly  injure  me  ? 
There  was  probably  a good  deal  of  truth  in  this,  and  the 
inherent  weakness  of  the  central  Government  in  Bhutan, 
which  left  the  powerful  officials  like  the  Tongsa  Penlop 
free  to  do  entirely  as  they  pleased,  had  much  to  do  with 
the  constant  outrages  on  the  frontier.  Lord  Dalhousie,  in 
Orders  No.  186,  dated  January  11,  1856,  directed  Colonel 
Jenkins  to  send  strong  letters  of  warning  both  to  the  Deb 
Raja  and  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  requiring  the  latter  to  apolo- 
gise for  the  disrespect  he  had  shown  to  his  lordship’s  repre- 
sentative, and  pointing  out  to  the  Deb  Raja  that  he  must 
be  held  responsible  for  the  malpractices  of  his  subordinates, 
and  that  if  there  should  be  a recurrence  of  these  preda- 
tory incursions  into  British  territory  the  Agent  had  been 
authorised  to  take  immediate  measures  for  the  permanent 
occupation  of  the  Bengal  Duars.  The  revenue  of  the  Assam 
Duars  was  at  the  same  time  withheld.  This  produced 
an  apology,  and  the  revenue  was  paid,  after  deducting  the 
value  of  the  plundered  property,  Rs.  2868. 

Even  while  these  letters  of  apology  were  on  their  way 
another  outrage  was  committed,  and  Arun  Singh,  an 
hereditary  Zamindar  of  the  Goomar  Duar,  was  forcibly 
273  s 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

carried  off  into  Bhutan.  The  Government  of  India  advo- 
cated mild  measures  of  remonstrance,  but  the  Governor- 
General  considered  that,  in  view  of  past  offences  and  warn- 
ings, the  Bhutan  Government  should  be  told  that  if  proper 
reparation  was  not  made  annexation  of  the  Duars  would 
follow.  This  demand  was  met  by  an  impertinent  letter 
from  the  Deb  Raja,  claiming  Arun  Singh  as  a subject  of 
his  own.  Still  the  Government  of  India  did  not  proceed 
to  extremities,  though  more  outrages  were  committed, 
and  it  was  considered  necessary  to  move  a regiment  up 
to  the  frontier.  Sir  Frederick  Halliday  visited  the  frontier, 
and  on  May  5,  1857,  addressed  the  Governor-General, 
recommending  that  as  the  Bhutan  Government  showed 
indications  of  being  about  to  adopt  an  improved  foreign 
policy,  and  the  rebellion  which  had  thrown  the  country 
into  confusion  had  ceased,  an  ultimatum  should  be  ad- 
dressed to  the  Durbar  calling  on  it  “ once  more,  avowedly 
for  the  last  time,  to  deliver  up  Arun  Singh,  or  abide  the 
consequences,”  and  in  the  event  of  their  failing  to  comply 
with  this  demand  Sir  Frederick  Halliday  proposed  to 
annex  the  Ambari  Falakata  and  Julpaish  territories.  The 
supreme  Government  concurred  with  these  proposals.  A 
cantonment  was  opened  at  J alpaiguri,  and  the  73rd  Regiment 
of  Native  Infantry  and  a detachment  of  the  nth  Irregular 
Cavalry  were  posted  there. 

The  mutiny,  however,  broke  out  at  the  time,  and  pre- 
vented this  ultimatum  from  being  carried  into  effect. 
Further  outrages  took  place  ; further  remonstrances  were 
made.  The  tone  of  the  Bhutan  Government  and  its 
officials  grew  bolder  and  more  insolent.  The  Subah  of 
Bhulka  Duar  refused  to  investigate  an  outrage  which  had 
occurred  in  his  jurisdiction  until  a revision  was  made  of 
the  frontier  boundaries  laid  down  in  1851-52.  The  Deb 
Raja,  in  a flippant  and  impertinent  reply  addressed  to 
the  Agent  in  1859,  declared  that  “ Arun  Singh  had  died 
because  his  days  were  numbered.” 

Even  then  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal,  Sir 
274 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

J.  P.  Grant,  did  not  consider  that  the  Deb’s  answer  was 
such  as  to  necessitate  immediate  action,  and  thought  that 
“ the  execution  of  the  menace  of  annexation  should  be  kept 
back  till  the  occurrence  of  some  new  outrage.”  The 
Governor-General,  however,  did  not  concur  in  this  view, 
and  directed  that  the  Falakata  estate  should  be  annexed. 
This  annexation  was  made  in  1859. 

Still  further  outrages  took  place,  and  instead  of  the 
threat  of  the  annexation  of  the  rest  of  the  Duars  being 
carried  out  a period  of  hesitation  and  inactivity  followed, 
during  which  the  best  method  of  dealing  with  the  question 
was  discussed  between  the  Agent  for  the  North-Eastern 
Frontier,  the  Bengal  Government,  and  the  Government  of 
India.  Lord  Canning  inclined  to  the  view  that  a Mission 
should  be  sent  to  Bhutan,  and  in  Colonel  Durand’s  letter, 
No.  55,  dated  January  23, 1862,  the  Agent,  Captain  Hopkin- 
son,  was  desired  to  state  what  arrangements  were  necessary 
for  the  security  of  a Mission.  While  the  deputation  of  a 
Mission  was  under  consideration  more  aggressions  occurred, 
and  insolent  demands  for  the  payment  of  the  Ambari 
Falakata  revenue  were  made  by  the  Dalingkote  Jongpen. 
A considerable  force  of  Bhutanese  was  marched  to  the 
Rangpur  frontier,  and  simultaneously  arrangements  were 
made  for  crossing  the  Teesta  for  the  purpose  of  attacking 
Darjeeling.  This  was  met  by  moving  up  two  companies 
of  the  38th  Regiment  and  a wing  of  the  10th  Native  In- 
fantry to  the  frontier,  and  outposts  were  pushed  forward 
from  the  regiment  at  Jalpaiguri.  The  result  of  this  was 
that  the  Bhutanese  immediately  returned  to  their  homes. 

In  July  1862  a messenger,  Mokundo  Singh,  was  de- 
spatched from  Assam  to  the  Bhutan  Court  announcing 
the  intention  of  the  Governor-General  to  send  a Mission, 
and  asking  the  Bhutan  Government  to  name  the  route  by 
which  it  should  enter  and  to  make  arrangements  for  the 
reception  of  the  envoy.  No  reply  was  received  from 
Bhutan  till  December  of  the  same  year,  and  the  letter  that 
Mokundo  Singh  brought  from  the  Deb  Raja  was  evasive 
275 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 


and  contradictory.  The  Deb  promised  to  send  some 
Zinkaffs  in  the  following  spring  to  settle  disputes.  But 
the  Zinkaffs  never  came,  and  the  officers  sent  to  receive 
the  Assam  compensation  money  were  not  even  of  the  usual 
rank.  The  Governor-General  therefore  felt  that  the  conduct 
of  the  Bhutanese  Government  in  sending  an  evasive  answer 
and  in  not  sending  the  promised  messengers  warranted 
him  in  sending  a Mission  without  further  parley  by  the 
most  convenient  route.  Eden  was  ordered  to  hold  himself 
in  readiness  to  proceed  to  Bhutan  as  the  envoy  of  the 
Government,  and  received  his  instructions  in  Colonel 
Durand’s  letter,  No.  493,  dated  August  11,  1863.  On 
September  30  letters  were  sent  to  Bhutan  announcing  the 
despatch  of  a Mission,  and  on  December  4 Eden,  accom- 
panied by  Dr.  Simpson,  started  from  Darjeeling.  The 
demands  made  on  the  Bhutan  Government  were  mild 
in  the  extreme,  considering  the  treatment  we  had  expe- 
rienced at  their  hands.  They  embraced  the  retention 
of  the  Ambari  Falakata  estate  for  the  present,  but  held 
out  hopes  of  its  release  to  the  Bhutan  Government ; arrange- 
ments for  the  extradition  of  criminals  ; and  an  explanation 
to  the  Deb  Raja  of  the  terms  we  stood  on  with  reference 
to  the  Sikhim  and  Cooch  Behar  States,  and  that  aggression 
on  these  States  must  be  considered  as  an  unfriendly  act. 
Eden  was  also  to  endeavour  to  arrange  for  the  appointment 
of  amagent  at  the  Bhutan  Court  at  some  future  time,  and 
to  secure  free  commerce  between  the  subjects  of  the  two 
Governments.  The  progress  of  the  Mission  has  already 
been  noticed.  The  objects  were  defeated,  principally  by 
the  Tongsa  Penlop,  who  held  a preponderating  influence 
in  the  council.  Our  envoy  was  grossly  insulted  and  his 
signature  obtained  by  compulsion  to  a most  audacious 
and  impossible  treaty,  and  Eden,  with  the  members  of  his 
Mission,  had  practically  to  make  their  escape  from  Bhutan 
to  avoid  imprisonment  and  perhaps  death. 

Even  after  this  treatment  of  its  envoy  the  Government 
of  India  decided  to  give  the  Bhutan  Government  room 
276 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 
for  repentance.  Eden  made  three  alternative  suggestions 
of  the  best  measures  to  be  adopted  to  punish  the  Bhutanese 
and  secure  the  frontier  from  future  aggressions  : (i)  The 
permanent  occupation  of  the  whole  country ; (2)  the 

temporary  occupation  of  the  country,  to  be  followed  by 
withdrawal  after  destroying  all  the  forts  and  impressing 
the  people  with  our  power  ; (3)  the  permanent  annexation 
of  the  Duars,  and  the  occupation  of  the  hill  forts  commanding 
them. 

The  Government  of  India,  however,  inclined  to  milder 
measures,  and  determined  only  to  annex  permanently 
Ambari  Falakata  and  withhold  all  future  payment  of  the 
Assam  subsidy,  and  to  require  the  surrender  of  all  British 
and  Cooch  Behar  captives,  failing  which  the  whole  of  the 
Duars  should  be  annexed.  Time  was  given  to  the  Bhutan 
Government  to  comply  with  these  demands,  while  prepara- 
tions were  made  for  an  advance  on  our  side.  The  Bhutan 
Government,  instead  of  taking  advantage  of  the  oppor- 
tunity given  of  a peaceful  settlement  of  the  question,  sent 
an  impertinent  letter  to  Chebu  Lama  of  Sikhim,  who 
had  been  attached  to  the  Mission,  accusing  him  of  having 
brought  about  the  trouble,  threatening  him  with  the  con- 
sequences, and  declaring  their  intention  of  abiding  by  the 
treaty  that  Eden  had  been  forced  to  sign,  and  returned 
an  evasive  reply  to  our  Government.  Then  at  last  the 
Government  of  India,  in  its  proclamation  of  November  12, 
1864,  declared  its  intention  of  occupying  and  permanently 
annexing  the  Bengal  Duars,  and  so  much  of  the  hill  territory, 
including  the  forts  of  Dalingkote,  Passaka,  and  Dewan- 
giri,  as  might  be  necessary  to  command  the  passes,  and  the 
Bhutan  War  commenced.  The  command  of  the  forces 
was  given  to  Brigadier-General  Malcaster,  who  was  to 
operate  on  the  right,  while  the  two  columns  on  the  left 
were  under  the  immediate  command  of  Brigadier-General 
Dunsford,  C.B.  Operations  commenced  on  November  28, 
by  an  advanced  party,  under  Major  Gough,  V.C., 
crossing  the  Teesta  near  Jalpaiguri  and  taking,  without 
2 77 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

encountering  any  resistance,  a small  Bhutan  outpost  at 
Gopalganj . 

Mynaguri,  Daling,  Damsong,  Samtsi,  Dongna,  and  Buxa 
were  successively  occupied  by  the  two  left  columns,  with 
but  little  loss  on  our  side,  and  the  military  occupation  of 
the  Bengal  Duars  was  completed  by  the  end  of  the  year. 
On  the  Assam  side  the  Bhutan  hill  post  of  Dewangiri  was 
captured,  with  slight  opposition,  early  in  December.  A 
force  of  some  strength  was  then  despatched  to  capture 
the  fort  of  Bishensing,  but  on  the  arrival  in  its  vicinity 
of  an  advanced  party  the  supposed  fort  was  found  to 
consist  of  a single  stone  house,  occupied  by  a lama  or 
priest.  The  necessity  for  further  military  operations 
having  ceased  with  the  capture  of  the  hill  forts  command- 
ing the  passes,  and  its  annexation  of  the  Bengal  and  Assam 
Duars  being  thus  completed,  the  Government  of  I ndia  directed 
the  breaking  up  of  the  Duars  field  forces  early  in  February 
1865,  intending  to  leave  the  occupation  of  the  country 
chiefly  to  the  Bengal  Police  battalion  of  about  eight  hundred 
strong,  which  had  accompanied  the  expedition,  and  a few 
cavalry  posts  on  the  frontier.  But  when  the  force  was 
on  the  eve  of  breaking  up  information  was  received  that 
the  Bhutanese  were  preparing  to  attack  the  whole  line 
of  posts  from  Chamurchi  to  Dewangiri.  Dewangiri  was 
attacked  by  a force  under  the  Tongsa  Penlop.  The  first 
attack  was  repulsed.  The  Bhutanese,  however,  cut  off  the 
water  supply  of  the  fort,  and  succeeded  in  throwing  up 
a stockade  which  completely  commanded  it ; they  also 
obtained  possession  of  the  Dorunga  Pass,  thus  cutting 
off  communication  with  the  plains.  Colonel  Campbell 
was  running  short  of  ammunition,  General  Malcaster  had 
refused  to  reinforce  him,  an  attempt  to  send  in  ammuni- 
tion failed,  and  under  these  circumstances  Colonel  Campbell 
determined  to  evacuate  the  position  under  cover  of  the 
night  and  retreat  to  the  plains  by  another  pass  known  as 
the  Libra  Pass.  The  evacuation  commenced  at  one  o’clock 
on  the  morning  of  February  5.  Unfortunately,  the  main 
278 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

party  lost  its  way  in  the  darkness  ; a panic  ensued,  the 
retreat  became  a disorderly  one,  some  of  our  wounded 
were  left  behind  in  the  confusion,  and  the  guns,  abandoned, 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Tongsa  Penlop. 

The  Bhutanese  luckily  stayed  behind  to  plunder,  and 
did  not  follow  up  their  advantage,  so  that  the  force  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  Kassurekatta  with  the  loss  of  the  few 
wounded  who  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  It  is 
noteworthy  that  these  prisoners  were  well  treated  by  the 
Tongsa  Penlop.  The  Bhutanese  force  on  this  occasion 
was  estimated  at  5000  men,  but  this  number  includes 
porters,  coolies,  musicians,  and  servants.  Unsuccessful 
attempts  were  about  the  same  time  made  to  capture  the 
posts  at  Bishensing  and  Buxa,  but  though  these  failed 
another  reverse  to  our  forces  was  sustained  at  Taza-jong, 
the  stockaded  post  at  the  Bala  Pass.  As  at  Dewangiri, 
the  Bhutanese  were  not  discouraged  by  their  first  repulse, 
and  threw  up  a stockade  commanding  our  post.  Colonel 
Watson  arrived  from  the  plains  with  reinforcements  on 
February  4 to  dislodge  them,  but,  after  engaging  the 
enemy  for  two  hours,  was  compelled  to  retire  with  the  loss 
of  Lieutenant  Millett  killed,  Lieutenant  Cameron  mortally 
wounded,  and  several  of  the  men  of  the  nth  Native  In- 
fantry killed  and  wounded.  The  post  at  Chamurchi  was 
at  the  same  time  threatened  ; though  the  Bhutanese  did 
not  succeed  in  driving  our  post  out  of  the  pass,  they  con- 
tinued to  occupy  their  own  entrenchment.  This  change 
in  the  aspect  of  affairs  necessitated  the  sending  of  reinforce- 
ments to  the  frontier. 

Brigadier-General  Tombs,  C.B.,  V.C.,  was  appointed 
to  supersede  General  Malcaster,  and  Brigadier-General 
Fraser  Tytler,  C.B.,  succeeded  General  Dunsford,  who  was 
compelled  to  resign  from  ill-health.  Both  these  generals 
were  given  independent  commands,  the  former  of  the 
Right,  and  the  latter  of  the  Left  Brigade. 

Bala  was  recaptured  by  General  Tytler  on  March  15, 
and  the  Bhutanese  were  driven  out  of  the  stockades  where 
279 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

they  had  established  themselves  in  the  vicinity  of  Buxa 
and  Chamurchi  by  March  24 ; the  objects  of  General 
Tytler  with  the  Left  Brigade  were  thus  speedily  effected, 
with  but  slight  casualties.  On  the  Assam  side  the  Right 
Brigade  recaptured  Dewangiri  by  the  end  of  March.  As 
Dewangiri  was  considered  unhealthy  during  the  rains,  it 
was  evacuated  at  once  after  its  capture,  the  buildings 
destroyed,  and  the  troops  withdrawn  by  April  6.  The 
military  operations  in  both  the  Assam  and  Bengal  Duars 
being  thus  completed,  so  far  as  immediate  active  measures 
were  required,  General  Tombs  returned  to  his  command 
at  Gwalior,  and  the  two  brigades  were  placed  under  General 
Tytler,  with  his  headquarters  at  Gauhati,  to  act,  if  required, 
on  the  defensive,  and  to  be  ready  for  a further  advance 
if  circumstances  rendered  this  necessary.  The  Bhutan 
Government  now  made  overtures  for  peace,  and  asked  for 
the  restoration  of  the  Duars.  Preliminary  negotiations 
followed,  during  which  further  hostilities  were  suspended, 
and  resulted  in  a treaty  with  Bhutan,  which  was  finally 
concluded  on  November  11,  1865,  at  Sinchula.  Under 
this  treaty  the  British  Government  retained  possession 
of  the  Assam  and  Bengal  Duars.  The  Bhutan  Govern- 
ment agreed  to  surrender  all  British  subjects  of  Sikhim 
and  Cooch  Behar  detained  in  Bhutan  against  their  will ; 
to  the  mutual  extradition  of  criminals  ; to  the  maintenance 
of  free  trade  ; to  the  arbitration  of  the  British  Government 
in  all  disputes  between  the  Bhutan  Government  and  the 
Chiefs  of  Cooch  Behar  and  Sikhim.  This  treaty  is  known 
by  the  Bhutanese  as  the  Ten-Article  Treaty  of  Rawa  Pani. 

The  Bhutanese  also  agreed  to  deliver  up  the  two  guns 
which  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  Tongsa  Penlop, 
and  to  return  the  agreement  which  they  had  extorted 
from  our  envoy,  Eden,  with  an  apology  for  their  treat- 
ment of  him.  On  their  side  the  British  Government  under- 
took to  pay  the  Bhutan  Government,  from  the  revenues 
of  the  Duars,  an  annual  sum  beginning  with  Rs.  25,000,  on 
fulfilment  of  the  conditions  of  the  treaty ; on  J anuary  10 
280 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

following  the  first  payment  Rs.  35,000  ; on  January  10 
following  Rs.  45,000  ; on  every  succeeding  January  10 
Rs.  50,000.  The  arrangement  about  the  surrender  of  the 
guns  and  delivery  of  the  extorted  treaty  was  recorded 
in  a separate  agreement,  dated  November  10,  given  by  the 
two  representatives  of  the  Bhutan  Government,  and  it 
was  agreed  that  until  these  two  conditions  were  fulfilled 
no  money  payment  under  the  treaty  should  be  due  to  the 
Bhutan  Government. 

The  country  thus  ceded  to  the  British  Government 
comprised  the  Athara  Duars,  a narrow  strip  of  territory 
averaging  about  twenty-two  miles  in  width  and  250  in 
length,  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  hills.  The  eastern  Duars, 
lying  east  of  the  Sankos  River,  have  been  incorporated 
with  the  Goalpara  and  Kamrup  districts  of  Assam. 

Payment  of  the  allowance  to  the  Bhutan  Government 
was  temporarily  withheld  in  1868,  on  account  of  the  Bhutan 
Government  having  stopped  intercommunication  between 
Bhutan  and  Buxa,  and  on  account  of  their  disregard  of 
Article  4 of  the  treaty  of  1865  by  sending  an  officer  of 
inferior  rank  to  receive  the  subsidy.  In  1880  the  Bhutanese 
were  again  told  that  the  subsidy  would  be  withheld  unless 
certain  raiders  in  Chunbati,  near  Buxa,  were  handed  over 
to  us.  Eventually  our  demands  were  complied  with,  the 
raiders  delivered  up,  and  the  captives  (British  subjects 
who  had  been  carried  off)  released  in  July  1881. 

The  last  civil  war  in  Bhutan  ended  in  1885,  when 
Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  who  was  then  Tongsa  Penlop,  assisted 
by  his  relative,  the  Paro  Penlop,  defeated  Aloo  Dorji,  the 
Thimboo  Jongpen,  and  Poonakha  Jongpen  ; the  last  was 
killed.  In  1888,  on  the  outbreak  of  hostilities  between 
ourselves  and  the  Tibetans,  Shapenjoo,  father  of  Ugyen 
Kazi,  warned  the  Tibetans  of  the  consequences  of  refusing 
to  come  to  terms ; and,  on  behalf  of  Bhutan,  refused 
assistance  to  the  Tibetans.  During  the  interval  between 
then  and  the  Tibet  Mission  of  1904  the  Bhutanese,  under 
the  guidance  of  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  Ugyen  Wang-chuk, 
281 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

were  most  friendly  to  us,  and  constant  intercourse  was 
kept  up  between  the  Tongsa  Penlop  and  our  representa- 
tives, first  Mr.  Paul,  and  later  myself.  During  the  Tibet 
Mission  of  1904  the  Bhutanese  were  called  upon  for  open 
support,  and  their  Government,  under  the  guidance  of 
Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  sent  a Mission  with  General  Macdonald 
in  his  advance  on  Lhasa.  This  was  headed  by  Ugyen 
Wang-chuk  himself,  who  rendered  such  excellent  service 
that  on  the  conclusion  of  the  expedition  he  was  honoured 
with  a Knight  Commandership  of  the  Most  Excellent  Order 
of  the  Indian  Empire. 

Up  to  1904  the  political  relations  between  Bhutan  and 
the  Indian  Government  had  been  carried  on  through  the 
medium  of  the  Government  of  Bengal.  On  hostilities 
breaking  out  in  that  year  these  political  relations  were 
transferred  from  Bengal  to  Colonel  Younghusband,  who 
corresponded  direct  with  the  Government  of  India.  On 
the  termination  of  the  Mission  these  political  relations, 
were  transferred  to  myself,  the  Political  Officer  of  Sikhim, 
and  at  the  same  time  I was  entrusted  with  the  political 
relations  with  Tibet.  This  was  a change  of  great  import- 
ance, as  it  brought  Sikhim,  Bhutan,  and  Tibet  directly  under 
the  Government  of  India,  and  thus  avoided  the  unnecessary 
and  tedious  delays  formerly  caused  by  corresponding  through 
the  local  Government. 

In  1905  I was  deputed  on  my  first  Mission  to  Bhutan, 
to  present  to  Sir  Ugyen  Wang-chuk  the  insignia  of  the 
K.C.I.E.  I was  accompanied  by  Major  Rennick,  of  the 
Intelligence  Branch,  and  by  Mr.  Paul,  at  the  special  invita- 
tion of  Sir  Ugyen ; the  escort  was  taken  from  the  40th 
Pathans.  Unlike  all  former  Missions  of  recent  date,  this 
Mission  was  received  in  the  most  friendly  manner  ; every- 
thing was  done  to  ensure  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  its 
members,  and  most  friendly  relations  with  Sir  Ugyen  and 
all  Bhutanese  officials  was  the  result. 

From  now  onwards  the  Bhutanese  moved  steadily 
forward  in  the  line  of  improvement.  In  1906  Sir  Ugyen 
282 


BRITISH  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

was  invited  to  meet  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  Calcutta, 
which  invitation  he  accepted.  This  may  be  taken  as  one 
of  the  most  important  events  in  recent  Bhutan  history. 
This  visit  assured  Sir  Ugyen  of  our  friendship,  and  brought 
him  into  contact  with  the  outside  world,  of  which  he  had 
previously  only  heard  very  little ; it  broadened  his  views 
and  showed  him  that  there  were  larger  and  more  important 
centres  than  his  own  small  kingdom.  This  visit  and  the 
constant  intercourse  between  Sir  Ugyen  and  his  officials 
and  the  British  Political  Officer  had  its  effect  in  paving 
the  way  for  the  very  great  change  which  shortly  took  place. 

In  1907  Sir  Ugyen  was  chosen  unanimously  by  the 
lamas,  headmen,  and  people  of  Bhutan  as  their  Hereditary 
Maharaja. 

I was  deputed  on  my  second  Mission  to  Bhutan,  to  be 
present  at  the  installation,  to  represent  the  Government 
of  India.  I was  accompanied  by  Major  Rennick,  Mr. 
Campbell,  and  Captain  Hyslop,  and  the  escort  was  taken 
from  the  62nd  Punjabis. 

This  Mission  was  also  received  in  the  most  friendly 
manner,  and  everything  possible  was  done  to  make  its 
stay  in  Bhutan  a pleasant  one. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  for  the  last  hundred 
years  till  quite  lately  the  governing  body  in  India  has 
endeavoured  to  keep  strictly,  and  even  contemptuously, 
aloof  from  these  mountain  people,  and  that  their  policy 
of  refusing  to  sympathise  or  hold  friendly  intercourse  with 
them  has  invariably  resulted  in  trouble  and  annoyance 
to  themselves,  in  return  for  which  they  have  enforced 
full  payment  by  depriving  the  weaker  State  of  valuable 
territory. 

It  is  obvious  that  in  the  case  of  Bhutan,  Government 
should  utilise  this  unique  opportunity  of  a new  regime 
in  that  country  to  enter  into  a new  Treaty  and  to  increase 
the  inadequate  subsidy  that  we  now  dole  out  as  com- 
pensation for  the  annexation  of  the  Duars,  the  most 
valuable  tea  district  in  India.  If  this  is  not  done  soon 
283 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

China  will  acquire  complete  control  in  Bhutan,  and  demand 
from  us,  as  she  did  in  the  parallel  case  of  Sikhim,  the 
retrocession  of  the  Bhutanese  plains.  Further,  any  poli- 
tical disturbance  on  this  frontier  would  seriously  affect 
the  supply  of  labour  on  the  tea-gardens  in  the  Duars,  and 
so  cause  great  loss  to  the  tea  industry.  This  was  very 
ably  pointed  out  by  Edgar  in  1887,  when  we  were  com- 
pelled to  fight  China  under  the  guise  of  Tibet  for  supre- 
macy in  Sikhim.  The  neighbouring  State  of  Nepal  is  in 
a measure  subject  to  China  under  the  treaty  of  1780,  and 
in  all  these  years  we  have  made  but  little  progress  in 
knowledge  of  that  country,  and  have  allowed  our  Resi- 
dent to  be  a kind  of  political  ddenu  in  the  Residency  at 
Khatmandu.  It  is  earnestly  to  be  hoped  that  we  may 
not  drift  into  a similar  position  with  Bhutan,  and  in  order 
to  avoid  doing  so  constant  and  continued  intercourse  with 
our  frontier  officers  should  be  encouraged,  and  a policy 
closely  followed  by  which  no  efforts  to  further  and  advance 
friendly  and  intimate  relations  are  spared. 


284 


CHAPTER  XXII 


FOREIGN  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

China.  Tibet.  Nepal.  Sikhim.  Cooch  Behar. 

It  is  impossible  to  say  when  the  first  connection  with 
China  commenced,  but  the  right  of  granting  a patent  of 
investiture  and  seal  of  office  to  the  ruler  of  Bhutan  seems 
to  have  been  claimed  by  China  at  an  early  date.  It  was 
revived  by  the  Emperor  Chien  Lung  in  1736.  It  is  fair 
to  assume  that  it  was  not  much  after  Chinese  power  was 
finally  established  at  Lhasa,  and  Ambans  appointed  there, 
in  1720,  but  it  would  seem  to  have  afterwards  fallen  into 
abeyance,  as  Bogle  tells  us  that  one  of  the  causes  of  the 
rebellion  of  Deb  Jeedhur,  about  1774,  was  that  the  Deb 
endeavoured  to  secure  the  friendship  and  protection  of 
China  by  circulating  the  seal  of  the  Emperor  in  Bhutan. 
According  to  Pemberton,  the  power  of  China  was  regarded 
with  considerable  respect  by  the  authorities  in  Bhutan, 
and  a very  marked  deference  was  shown  to  the  supposed 
views  and  wishes  of  the  Chinese  officials  at  Lhasa.  Once 
a year  messengers  arrived  from  Lhasa  bearing  an  imperial 
mandate  from  China  addressed  to  the  Deb  and  Dharma 
Rajas,  and  the  Penlops  under  their  orders.  It  was  written 
on  fine  cambric  in  large  letters,  and  generally  contained 
instructions  to  be  careful  in  the  government  of  the  country, 
to  quell  promptly  all  internal  tumult  or  rebellion,  and  to 
report  immediately,  on  pain  of  a heavy  fine,  any  appre- 
hended invasion  from  foreign  foes ; and  on  one  occasion 
285 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

a fine  of  Deba  Rs.  10,000  was  actually  imposed  for 
neglect  of  orders,  which  was  paid  in  instalments  spread 
over  three  years. 

Twenty  gold  coins  were  always  sent  with  the  imperial 
mandate.  The  reply  returned  by  Bhutan  was  always 
accompanied  by  a present  of  twenty-three  coolie-loads 
of  fine  rice  and  goods,  consisting  mostly  of  silk  and  cotton 
cloths,  to  the  value  of  Rs.  3000.  A return  present  was 
afterwards  received  from  China  of  flowered  scarves  and 
silks,  coral,  and  moulds  of  silver  and  gold.  Though  the 
Chinese  authorities  at  Lhasa  appeared,  as  a rule,  to  exercise 
no  direct  control  in  the  government  of  the  country,  Pember- 
ton heard  of  one  instance  when  they  interfered,  in  the  year 
1830,  to  settle  one  of  the  frequent  insurrections  that  had 
taken  place  against  the  Deb  Raja  of  that  time,  by  sending 
a body  of  troops  into  Bhutan  and  deciding  between  the 
claims  of  the  rival  parties.  Pemberton  adds  that  the 
accuracy  of  his  information  of  the  action  of  the  Chinese 
on  this  occasion  has  been  questioned,  but  the  story  is 
consistent  with  what  has  happened  since.  At  his  interview 
with  the  Deb  Raja  in  1874  Rampini  was  informed  by  him 
that  though  Bhutan  was  in  no  way  tributary  to  China, 
yet  an  annual  exchange  of  presents  took  place.  Bhutan 
sent  presents  to  the  value  of  Rs.  7000  to  the  Chinese 
Ambans  at  Lhasa,  and  received  presents  in  return  to  the 
value  of  Rs.  10,000. 

Two  instances  at  least  have  occurred  in  more  recent 
years  since  the  Bhutan  War  in  which  the  Chinese  authori- 
ties at  Lhasa  have  interfered  in  Bhutanese  politics.  These 
were  in  1876-77,  when  the  Deb  Raja  reported  to  Lhasa 
the  wish  of  the  British  Government  that  he  should  make 
a good  road  through  Bhutan,  and  Chinese  and  Tibetan 
officials  were  sent  to  Bhutan  to  support  him  in  refusing 
to  do  anything  of  the  sort.  In  the  rebellion  of  1885  the 
defeated  Deb  appealed  to  Lhasa,  and  Chinese  and  Tibetan 
officials  were  deputed  to  settle  the  dispute.  They  sum- 
moned the  Maharaja  of  Sikhim  to  attend  the  conference. 

286 


Tibet 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  SEALS  GIVEN  TO  BHUTAN 
BY  CHINA,  NEPAL,  AND  TIBET 


FOREIGN  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

On  this  occasion  the  interference  of  the  Chinese  Ambans 
at  Lhasa  cannot  be  construed  as  an  act  merely  of  their 
own  initiative.  The  Indian  Government  received  informa- 
tion from  her  Britannic  Majesty’s  Charge  d’ Affaires  at 
Pekin  that  the  Chinese  were  disposed  to  take  the  cause 
of  the  ex-Deb  in  hand  and  support  him  with  Chinese 
troops,  and  in  consequence  of  the  attitude  taken  up  by 
China  the  subsidy  was  withheld  till  the  dispute  between 
the  opposing  Debs  was  finally  settled. 

In  1890  there  occurred  a further  symptom  of  the  interest 
taken  by  China  in  Bhutan  and  of  the  intention  of  the 
Chinese  Government  to  revive  their  former  suzerainty 
over  the  country.  The  Assistant  Resident  in  Tibet,  who 
was  afterwards  promoted  to  be  Principal  Resident,  in  a 
memorial  to  his  Government  at  Pekin,  suggested  that 
the  two  Penlops  of  Tongsa  and  Paro  should  be  created 
Chieftains,  and  should  at  the  same  time  be  invested  with 
a title  of  hereditary  nobility  by  the  Emperor  of  China. 
This  proposal  received  the  imperial  sanction.  Subsequently 
the  Assistant  Resident  modified  his  proposal,  and,  in  view 
of  the  fact  that  the  executive  administration  was  really 
vested  in  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  the  Paro  Penlop  being  merely 
nominally  associated  with  him  in  the  government  of  the 
country,  suggested  that  this  distinction  should  be  recog- 
nised, and  that  the  former  should  be  appointed  Chieftain 
and  the  latter  Sub-Chieftain.  This  was  sanctioned  by  the 
Emperor  in  the  Pekin  Gazette  of  August  22,  1890. 

Her  Britannic  Majesty’s  Minister  at  Pekin,  in  his  letter 
informing  the  Government  of  India  of  the  step,  adds  : 

“ The  action  taken  by  the  Resident  in  the  present 
instance  appears  to  be  merely  a continuation  of  the  policy 
adopted  by  his  predecessor  in  1866,  when,  as  reported  in  my 
Despatches  Nos.  59  and  60  of  the  9th  and  15th  November 
of  that  year,  the  Chinese  Government  asserted  the  right  of 
controlling  appointments  to  the  posts  of  Raja  or  Penlop 
in  Tibet.  As  explained  in  the  second  of  my  above-mentioned 
Despatches,  the  right  of  granting  a patent  of  investiture 
287 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

and  a seal  of  office  to  the  ruler  of  Bhutan  seems  to  have 
been  claimed  by  China  at  an  early  date.  It  was  revived 
by  the  Emperor  Chien  Lung  in  1736,  and  when  Bogle  visited 
Bhutan  forty  years  later  he  found  that  the  introduction 
of  the  imperial  seal  of  China  was  still  a vexed  question  in 
the  country.” 

In  1891  the  Paro  Penlop  wrote  to  Paul  to  inform  him 
that  officers  of  the  Chinese  Amban  had  visited  him  at  Paro 
on  November  21,  1891,  and  left  with  him  a golden  letter, 
with  the  seal  of  the  Emperor  of  China,  for  the  Tongsa 
Penlop.  It  is  not  quite  clear  whether  there  was  only  the 
one  letter,  or  whether  the  Paro  Penlop  received  another 
one  for  himself. 

The  connection  of  Bhutan  with  Tibet  has  been  much 
closer,  although  since  the  establishment  of  the  Chinese  power 
at  Lhasa  Tibetan  control  in  Bhutan  has  been  exercised  in 
concert  with  or  under  the  orders  of  the  Chinese  Ambans. 

The  Deb  Raja,  in  his  conversation  with  Rampini  in 
1874,  repudiated  the  idea  of  his  State  being  tributary  to 
Tibet  any  more  than  to  China,  but  the  whole  course  of 
Bhutan  history  shows  that  though  the  chain  which  binds 
Bhutan  to  Tibet  may  be  a loose  one,  it  is  held  nevertheless 
by  Tibet,  and  tightened  on  occasions. 

Horna  Della  Penna,  in  his  “ Brief  Account  of  the  King- 
dom of  Thibet,”  written  in  1830,  says  that  the  kingdom 
of  Dukpa  (Bhutan),  along  with  Ladakand  Nepal,  were  then 
subject  to  and  had  voluntarily  made  themselves  tributary 
to  Tibet,  after  the  Emperor  of  China  had  made  himself 
master  of  it. 

From  researches  made  in  old  Tibetan  manuscripts, 
it  is  clear  that  the  present  State  of  Bhutan  originated 
in  a colony  of  Tibetans,  and  that  the  first  Dharma 
Raja,  Shabdung  Nga-wang  Namgyal,  who  introduced 
order  and  government  into  this  colony,  was  a lama  from 
Tibet,  as  well  as  the  next  Dharma  Raja,  Gyaltsap  Tenzing. 
Robgay. 


288 


FOREIGN  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

The  earliest  connections  of  Bhutan  with  Tibet  were 
thus  evidently  very  close,  both  on  the  religious  and  secular 
side.  Pemberton’s  account  confirms  this  view.  He  men- 
tions a tradition  current  in  the  country  that  Bhutan  was 
once  ruled  by  resident  Tibetan  officers,  and  that  when 
these  officers  were  withdrawn,  and  the  Bhutanese  allowed 
to  govern  themselves,  they  still  consented  to  pay  an  annual 
tribute  to  Tibet,  and  recognised  the  supremacy  of  the 
Emperor  of  China  in  secular  and  of  the  Delai  Lama  in 
spiritual  affairs. 

Coming  down  to  a more  historical  period,  the  time  of 
Bogle’s  Mission,  we  find  that  in  the  letter  addressed  by  the 
Regent  of  Tibet,  the  Tashi  LhunpO'  Lama  (Penchen  Rim- 
pochi  ?),  to  Warren  Hastings,  which  was  received  on 
March  29,  1774,  in  which  he  mediated  for  peace  on  behalf 
of  Beb  Jeedhur,  the  Regent  claims  Bhutan  as  a dependency 
of  Tibet.  He  says  the  Deb  Raja  “ is  dependent  upon  the 
Delai  Lama,”  that  if  British  hostilities  are  continued  it 
will  irritate  both  the  Lama  and  all  his  subjects  against 
the  Indian  Government,  and  that  he  has  “ reprimanded  the 
Deb  for  his  past  conduct  and  admonished  him  to  desist 
from  his  evil  practices  in  future,  and  to  be  submissive  to 
you  in  all  matters.” 

Occasions  on  which  the  Tibetan  authorities  have  inter- 
fered with  Bhutan  politics  in  concert  with  the  Chinese 
have  been  mentioned.  It  may  fairly  be  presumed  that 
the  Lhasa  Government  would  have  exercised  this  amount 
of  control  over  Bhutan  irrespective  of  China  if  Chinese 
supremacy  had  not  become  established  at  Lhasa.  The 
Bhutanese  Government  at  first  endeavoured  to  hinder 
Bogle’s  progress  into  Tibet,  and  they  positively  refused 
to  allow  Pemberton  to  proceed  there  or  to  forward  a letter 
from  him  to  Lhasa.  In  both  cases  they  were  probably 
acting  under  instructions  from  the  Lhasa  Government. 
Bhutan  does  not  now  pay  any  tribute  to  Tibet,  and  it  does 
not  appear  when  it  ceased  to  do  so.  It  is  probable  that 
when  China  sent  its  Ambans  to  Lhasa  in  1720  the  tribute 

289  T 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

was  transferred  to  China.  On  the  other  hand,  Bhutan 
did  not  come  to  the  assistance  of  Tibet  in  the  Nepal  War 
of  1792.  Turner  even  says  that  the  Chinese  general  thought 
of  invading  Bhutan  after  defeating  the  Nepalese.  Tibet 
did  not  support  Bhutan  in  the  war  of  1864,  or  oppose  the 
annexation  of  the  Duars,  though  Rennie  does  mention  that 
a few  soldiers  who  were  thought  to  be  Tibetans  were  seen 
with  the  Bhutanese  troops  ; nor  did  Bhutan  give  any  help 
to  the  Tibetans  at  the  time  of  the  British  expedition  against 
them  in  Sikhim  in  1888-89.  The  Tibetans  asked  for 
assistance,  but  it  was  refused  by  the  Tongsa  Penlop. 

The  ordinary  government  of  the  country  goes  on  without 
interference  from  Tibet,  and  Lhasa  does  not  exercise  any 
voice  in  the  election  of  the  Deb  Raja.  In  Bogle’s  time 
Tibetans  were  excluded  from  trading  in  Bhutan  except 
for  the  exchange  of  rice  and  salt.  Disputes  between  the 
Tibetans  on  the  Chumbi  side  and  the  Bhutanese  from  time 
to  time  occurred.  In  1892  a Bhutanese  subject,  servant 
of  the  Tongsa  Penlop,  was  murdered  at  Phari ; and  later, 
as  the  Tibetans  at  first  neglected  to  make  compensation, 
the  Bhutanese  threatened  to  invade  the  Chumbi  Valley. 
The  matter  was  eventually  settled  amicably  in  1894. 
Recent  frontier  information  shows  that  the  Paro  Penlop 
has  levied  fines  from  the  Tomos  in  the  Chumbi  Valley  in 
a high-handed  manner,  and  till  quite  lately  levied  taxes 
upon  Tibetans  entering  Bhutan  on  that  side.  The  connec- 
tion between  Tibet  and  Bhutan  is  certainly  an  ill-defined 
one,  and  may  perhaps  be  best  expressed  by  saying  that 
though  Bhutan  is  not  a dependency  of  Tibet,  it  comes 
within  the  sphere  of  Tibet’s  political  influence. 

The  first  mention  of  any  political  connection  between 
Bhutan  and  Nepal  is  given  by  Bogle,  who  says  that  the 
ambitious  Deb  Raja  of  Bhutan,  Deb  Jeedhur,  about  1770, 
with  the  view  of  making  himself  independent  of  the  priestly 
power,  strengthened  his  connection  with  the  Raja  of  Nepal, 
and  obtained  his  support  so  far  that  Nepal  refused  to  acknow- 
290 


FOREIGN  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 

ledge  the  Deb  who  was  set  up  in  Deb  Jeedhur’s  place  after 
the  rebellion  against  him.  Not  long  after  this,  in  1788, 
Bhutan  sent  forces  to  aid  Sikhim  in  repelling  the  Gurkha 
invasion  from  Nepal.  They  were  themselves  in  turn 
threatened  by  a Gurkha  invasion  after  the  submission  of 
Sikhim  to  Nepal,  but  this  was  prevented  by  the  defeat 
of  the  Nepalese  troops  by  China. 

This  Deb,  otherwise  known  as  Migyur  Tempa,  was  a 
friend  of  Raja  Rama  Sahi  of  Nepal,  and  obtained  several 
grants  of  land  in  that  country.  At  one  time  Bhutan 
possessed  eighteen  monasteries  there ; these  were  lost  in 
1788,  on  account  of  the  Bhutanese  sending  help  to  Sikhim 
against  the  Nepalese.  They  now  possess  only  two. 

Bhutan  has  remained  unmolested  by  the  Nepalese, 
and  this  Pemberton  attributes,  first  to  the  fear  of  China, 
and  secondly  to  the  bold  and  determined  policy  of  Hastings, 
which  interposed  the  little  State  of  Sikhim  as  a barrier 
to  the  eastern  progress  of  the  Nepalese.  From  this  period 
down  to  Pemberton’s  time  scarcely  any  intercourse,  either 
of  a political  or  commercial  nature,  took  place  between 
Nepal  and  Bhutan.  At  his  interview  with  Rampini  in 
1874  the  Deb  Raja  declared  that  relations  with  Nepal  were 
friendly,  and  it  appears  that  there  has  always  been  some 
intercourse  of  a friendly  character  between  the  two  countries. 
In  recent  years  a large  number  of  Nepalese  have  migrated 
to  Bhutan  and  colonised  there,  along  the  foot  hills. 

Deb  Jeedhur,  of  whom  previous  mention  has  been 
made,  invaded  Sikhim  somewhere  about  1770,  and  held 
possession  of  the  country  for  six  or  seven  years.  The 
minor  Raja  of  Sikhim  fled  to  Lhasa,  and  was  educated 
there.  He  ultimately  obtained  assistance  from  Lhasa 
and  returned  to  his  country,  which  the  Bhutanese  then 
promptly  evacuated.  During  the  Bhutanese  occupation 
of  Sikhim  a Sikhimese  chief  had  been  confined  at  Poonakha. 
The  Sikhim  Raja,  on  his  return,  procured  his  release,  and 
the  Bhutanese,  on  setting  him  free,  bribed  him  to  remain 
291 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

a friend  to  their  Government.  This  man’s  son,  born  in 
captivity,  became  the  most  powerful  man  in  Sikhim,  and 
kept  up  a continued  correspondence  with  the  Bhutanese. 
Some  years  later,  when  a boundary  dispute  arose  between 
Sikhim  and  Bhutan,  he  treacherously  gave  up  to  Bhutan 
a large  tract  of  country  belonging  to  Sikhim,  including 
Dalingkote,  Jongsa,  and  Sangbay. 

Bhutan,  as  already  mentioned,  came  to  the  aid  of 
Sikhim  against  the  Gurkhas  in  1788.  Beyond  this  there 
seems  to  have  been  no  political  intercourse  between  the 
two  States,  and  Sikhim  sustained  its  share  of  the  outrages 
which  led  to  the  Bhutan  War  of  1864.  The  Sinchula 
Treaty  provided  for  the  surrender  of  Sikhimese  subjects 
carried  off  into  Bhutan,  and  for  the  reference  to  the  British 
Government  for  arbitration  of  all  disputes  that  might 
arise  between  Bhutan  and  Sikhim.  It  was  also  intended 
by  the  Government  of  India  to  separate  the  boundary  of 
Bhutan  from  Sikhim  by  including  the  tract  of  country  west 
of  the  Jaldhaka  in  the  annexation,  in  order  to  prevent 
future  inroads  into  Sikhim  by  the  Bhutanese.  This  inten- 
tion was  not  carried  out,  and  Bhutan  continues  to  border 
on  Sikhim  on  its  western  frontier.  There  have,  however, 
been  no  aggressions  on  Sikhim  by  the  Bhutanese  since  the 
Sinchula  Treaty. 

In  earlier  times  the  relations  between  Cooch  Behar 
and  Bhutan  were  extremely  intimate,  and  Bhutan  exercised 
considerable  control  over  Cooch  Behar  affairs.  About 
1695  the  Bhutanese  overran  Cooch  Behar  and  usurped 
the  government,  till  Santa  Narayan  Nazir  Deo,  with  the 
assistance  of  the  Mahomedan  Viceroy,  expelled  them 
after  a long  struggle,  and  placed  Rup  Narayan  on  the 
throne.  The  Bhutanese,  however,  continued  their  control 
over  political  affairs  in  Cooch  Behar.  In  1776,  when  the 
infant  Raja  was  murdered  at  the  instigation  of  Ramanand 
Gosain,  they,  “ exercising,  apparently,  a usual  authority,”' 
put  Ramanand  to  death,  and  Dhaijendra  was  placed  on 
292 


FOREIGN  RELATIONS  WITH  BHUTAN 
the  throne.  This  Raja  offended  the  Bhutan  Government 
by  depriving  Ram  Narayan  of  his  office  of  Dewan  Deo, 
and  afterwards  putting  him  to  death  ; and  as  a punish- 
ment for  this  affront  to  their  authority  the  Bhutanese 
carried  him  off  and  kept  him  a prisoner  in  Bhutan,  appoint- 
ing his  brother,  Rajendra,  to  rule  in  his  place.  On  the 
death  of  Rajendra,  Darendra,  son  of  Dhaijendra,  was  set 
up  as  Raja,  without  the  consent  of  Bhutan,  and  the  Bhu- 
tanese remonstrated  in  vain  against  the  election  of  the  son 
of  a person  whom  they  held  as  prisoner.  They  then  invaded 
Cooch  Behar,  and  carried  off  Darendra  and  his  brother  into 
Bhutan.  The  Government  of  India  came  to  the  aid  of  the 
dethroned  Raja,  and  the  Bhutanese  were  driven  out  of 
Cooch  Behar,  and  the  first  treaty  made  with  them  by 
Warren  Hastings  in  1774.  The  tribute  of  five  Tangan 
horses,  which  had  been  paid  by  Bhutan  to  the  Cooch  Behar 
Raja  for  the  province  of  Falakata,  was  transferred  to  the 
Company.  This  ended  any  political  relations  between 
Bhutan  and  Cooch  Behar.  As  in  the  case  of  Sikhim, 
Cooch  Behar  suffered  for  many  years  from  the  predatory 
incursions  of  the  Bhutanese,  which,  with  the  incursions 
into  British  territory,  were  made  the  casus  belli  with  Bhutan 
by  the  proclamation  of  1864 ; and  in  the  Sinchula  Treaty 
the  same  conditions  were  imposed  upon  Bhutan  in  respect 
to  Cooch  Behar  as  in  respect  to  Sikhim. 

Since  the  Sinchula  Treaty  there  has  been  very  little 
intercourse  between  Cooch  Behar  and  Bhutan.  As  in  our 
case,  Bhutanese  come  down  in  small  numbers  to  trade, 
but  Cooch  Beharis  are  not  allowed  to  enter  Bhutan  or 
to  trade  there. 


293 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

ARTS  AND  INDUSTRIES  OF  SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 


Chinese  and  Indian  influence.  Metal-work  in  Sikhim.  Method 
of  casting.  Sikhim  knives.  Aniline  dyes.  Weaving  school 
in  Lachung.  Carpet  factory  in  Gangtak.  Apple  orchards  in 
Lachung  and  Chumbi.  Cheese  and  butter  making.  Bhutan 
metal-work.  A wonderful  pan-box.  Beaten  copper  and  silver 
work.  Bells.  Swords  and  daggers.  Weaving.  Needlework 
pictures.  Basket-work.  Influence  of  the  feudal  system.  In- 
feriority of  Tibetan  work.  Wood-carving  in  Sikhim,  Bhutan, 
and  Nepal. 


The  arts  and  industries  of  Sikhim  and  Bhutan  have  an 
intimate  connection  with  those  of  China,  as  from  their 
earliest  days  these  countries  were  in  touch  with  China  and  its 
civilisation,  long  before  the  people  had  any  intercourse  with 
India.  With  the  spread  of  Buddhism  a certain  amount 
of  Indian  influence  was  brought  in,  but  it  is  not  very 
apparent.  It  has,  however,  also  crept  in  through  Nepal, 
and  wherever  the  Newar  craftsmen  have  penetrated 
Indian  designs  are  to  be  met  with  ; and  this  is  particularly 
the  case  in  the  eastern  districts,  in  Sikhim,  and  along  the 
Brahmaputra  River,  as  far  as  Shigatsi  and  Gyantse,  and 
to  some  extent  also  in  Lhasa. 

In  Bhutan  the  effect  of  Indian  influence  is  very  much 
less  marked,  and  that  of  Burmah  and  Siam,  which  has 
entered  by  way  of  Assam,  is  undoubtedly  stronger. 

In  Sikhim  the  arts  are  now  almost  entirely  carried  on 
by  Nepalese  craftsmen,  who  excel  in  gold,  silver,  and  brass 
work.  Articles  made  in  these  metals  are  generally  beaten 
294 


ART  SPECIMENS— I 

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ARTS  AND  INDUSTRIES 

into  shape,  backed  with  a lac  got  from  the  roots  of  the 
sal-tree,  and  the  pattern  hammered  out  with  blunt  tools. 
As  the  workman  draws  his  own  pattern  as  he  works,  his 
success  depends  on  his  ability,  and  he  is  able  to  express 
individuality  in  both  design  and  execution  ; and  I have 
seen,  and  have  in  my  possession,  some  very  good  specimens 
in  gold,  silver,  brass,  and  copper  work.  They  also  cast 
exceedingly  well  in  brass  and  bronze.  The  method  they 
follow  is  to  first  model  in  wax  the  object  they  wish  to  make  ; 
they  next  coat  the  model  with  successive  layers  of  cow- 
dung,  clay,  and  a little  finely  chopped  straw  ; this  is 
allowed  to  dry  very  slowly,  and  when  thoroughly  dry  the 
wax  is  melted  out,  leaving  an  excellent  mould,  into  which 
the  molten  metal  is  poured.  The  detail  obtained  in  this 
way  is  marvellous ; and  as  each  model  must  be  separately 
moulded  it  carries  with  it  the  great  charm  of  all  Oriental 
work — individuality . 

Very  good  knives  are  manufactured  in  Sikhim.  They 
used  to  be  made  from  indigenous  charcoal  iron,  but  now 
that  steel  bars  can  be  bought  so  cheaply  the  workmen — 
more  is  the  pity — have  entirely  abandoned  the  old  method 
of  extracting  the  iron  direct  from  the  ore. 

Cotton  cloth  is  also  manufactured  for  their  own  use, 
but  the  yarn  is  nearly  all  imported  now,  though  a small 
portion  is  still  made  locally.  The  women  weave  at  small 
looms  set  up  in  the  different  houses  where  the  dyeing  of 
the  thread  is  also  done  ; and  until  lately  vegetable  dyes, 
to  be  found  in  abundance  in  the  forests  and  jungles  of 
Sikhim,  were  always  used.  Unfortunately,  aniline  dyes 
were  introduced  into  the  bazaars ; the  people,  finding  they 
gave  more  brilliant  results,  were  cheaper  to  buy  and  easier 
to  use,  took  to  them,  and  nearly  spoilt  the  industry,  until 
I was  obliged  to  prohibit  the  sale  of  aniline  dyes  throughout 
Sikhim,  and  so  force  them  to  return  to  natural  vegetable 
dyes,  which  produce  such  beautiful  soft  tints  and  last  so 
much  better.  Carpets  and  woollen  cloths  are  also  made, 
and  I started  weaving  schools  in  Lachung,  and  later  on, 
295 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

under  the  control  and  supervision  of  the  Maharani,  who 
took  great  interest  in  the  work,  a carpet  factory  at  Gangtak. 
The  Lachung  schools  turned  out  most  excellent  tweeds, 
thanks  to  the  assistance  given  by  Miss  Johanson,  a Scandi- 
navian missionary,  under  whose  care  the  village  girls  came 
regularly  to  work,  collected  the  requisite  dyes  from  the 
jungle,  and  followed  the  patterns  ; but  that  supervision 
withdrawn,  the  girls  would  work  or  not  as  the  spirit  moved 
them,  the  yarn  would  be  uneven  in  quality  and  carelessly 
woven,  and  the  pattern  neglected  ; but  so  long  as  Miss 
Johanson  remains  the  output  is  excellent.  It  is  the  same 
with  the  carpet  factory.  When  I was  at  headquarters 
and  could  occasionally  look  in,  the  carpets  made  were 
excellent — could  not  have  been  better — but  if  I were  away 
for  a few  months  on  tour,  and  the  Maharani  otherwise 
occupied,  the  work  immediately  became  careless  and  in- 
ferior— mistakes  in  the  pattern,  bad  colouring,  and  inferior 
weaving.  It  shows  the  necessity  in  all  these  undertakings 
of  having  trained  supervision  at  the  head,  if  they  are  to 
be  successful. 

But  the  great  difficulty  was  to  place  the  output  on  a 
proper  commercial  footing.  It  is  easy  for  a few  years  to 
sell  cloth  or  carpets,  but  it  does  not  answer  in  the  long  run 
unless  the  goods  can  be  sold  in  the  open  market.  Before 
I left  an  attempt  to  do  this  was  being  made,  but  whether 
it  will  be  successful  or  not  I cannot  say. 

I also  tried  to  introduce  fruit-cultivation,  and  planted 
English  fruit-trees  in  both  the  Lachung  and  Chumbi  Valleys. 
In  the  former  the  apple-trees  have  done  extremely  well,  and 
a few  years  ago  one  tree  alone  bore  3200  apples,  weighing 
832  lb. ; and  I have  gathered  apples  which  weighed  over 
a pound  apiece.  But  here  again  the  distance  they  had  to 
be  carried  was  a difficulty  in  placing  them  on  the  market. 
A very  large  trade  is  done  in  oranges  during  the  winter 
months ; but  oranges  are  indigenous  to  the  country,  and 
the  natives  understand  their  cultivation;  and,  in  addition, 
they  grow  in  the  hot  valleys  near  the  plains.  The  orchards 
296 


ART  SPECIMENS— II 

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ARTS  AND  INDUSTRIES 

in  Chumbi  had  not  come  to  maturity  before  the  evacuation 
of  the  valley,  and  the  trees  will  probably  be  cut  down  for 
firewood. 

I also  tried  to  introduce  amongst  the  people  butter  and 
cheese  making,  which  should  have  been  profitable  to  the 
gwallahs,  or  cowkeepers  ; but  without  Europeans  to  place 
in  charge  it  was  difficult  to  achieve  any  success.  The 
cheese-making  was  never  taken  up,  although  for  a whole 
winter  I had  milk  brought  to  the  Residency,  the  cheese 
made  in  my  own  dairy,  and  then  sold  amongst  my  friends 
in  India,  to  demonstrate  to  them  the  practicability  of  the 
scheme.  They  thought  the  trouble  and  care  required  in 
keeping  the  utensils  clean  was  much  too  great  for  their 
easy-going  ways.  Hence  that  scheme  was  a failure,  and, 
beyond  what  I myself  attempted,  was  never  tried.  It 
seems  extraordinary  that  the  neighbouring  town  of  Dar- 
jeeling, not  to  speak  of  Calcutta  and  other  stations  in  the 
plains  of  Bengal,  should  get  their  supply  of  butter  from 
Aligarh,  in  the  United  Provinces,  while  at  Gangtak  day 
after  day  throughout  the  year  we  made  the  finest  possible 
butter,  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  the  best  English  butter, 
and  that  from  the  milk  of  cows  not  stall-fed  or  cared  for 
in  any  but  the  ordinary  way  of  the  country,  turned  out 
each  morning  to  graze  on  the  hillsides.  It  shows  what 
would  be  possible  were  the  business  taken  up  by  any 
practical  and  energetic  person. 

Into  Bhutan,  Nepalese  influence  has  hardly  penetrated 
at  all.  The  craftsmen  are  all  Bhutanese,  and  the  designs 
follow  more  closely  the  Chinese  model.  They  excel  in 
bronze  castings  and  fine  metal- work  of  all  kinds.  In  prac- 
tice they  follow  the  same  methods  as  in  Sikhim,  backing 
the  metal  on  which  they  are  employed  with  lac,  and 
hammering  out  the  patterns  with  blunt  chisels  after 
the  manner  of  old  alto-relievo  work.  One  of  the  most 
exquisite  specimens  of  workmanship  in  silver  and  silver- 
gilt  I have  ever  seen  was  produced  in  Bhutan — a pan-box 
about  8 inches  in  diameter  and  2\  inches  deep,  of  a purely 
297 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

Chinese  dragon  pattern,  in  relief  quite  a quarter  of  an  inch, 
or  more  deep. 

I have  also  seen  exceedingly  fine  specimens  of  copper 
and  brass  work,  chiefly  articles  for  the  decoration  of  their 
altars,  such  as  trumpets,  candlesticks,  rice-boxes,  tables, 
&c.,  and  they  also  cover  many  of  their  temple  pillars  with 
copper  or  silver  beaten  into  most  beautiful  patterns,  and 
the  altar  tables  are  examples  of  beaten  work  with  bold 
designs. 

The  Bhutanese  excel  in  casting  bells,  and  I have  seen 
some  excellent  specimens  with  very  fine  tones.  The  com- 
position used  for  the  best  bells  contains  a good  deal  of 
silver,  but  they  never  make  them  of  any  great  size,  the 
largest  I have  seen  being  probably  twenty-four  inches  in 
diameter  and  of  about  an  equal  height. 

In  iron-work  they  are  also  good  artificers,  and  many 
of  their  sword-blades  are  of  excellent  manufacture  and 
finish,  and  are  still  made  from  the  charcoal  iron.  The 
polish  they  put  on  them  is  wonderful,  and  the  blades  almost 
look  as  though  they  had  been  silvered. 

Their  swords  are  very  handsome  weapons,  with  finely 
finished  blades,  elaborately  wrought  silver  handles  inlaid 
with  turquoise  and  coral,  and  silver  scabbards  with  gold- 
washed  patterns,  attached  to  handsome  leather  belts  with 
brightly  coloured  silk  cords  and  tassels.  Their  daggers 
are  also  very  fine,  many  of  them  with  triangular  blades 
and  fluted  sides,  with  sheaths  of  exquisite  open  silver  and 
gold  work  set  with  turquoise. 

Every  house  of  any  importance  has  large  workrooms 
attached  in  which  weaving  is  carried  on,  and  the  stuffs 
produced,  consisting  of  silks  for  the  chiefs’  dress,  woollen 
and  cotton  goods,  are  excellent ; and  a good  deal  of 
embroidery  is  also  done. 

The  monasteries  possess  an  art  which,  as  far  as  I know, 
is  peculiar  to  Bhutan.  They  make  most  beautiful  needle- 
work pictures  of  the  saints  on  hanging  banners.  In- 
numerable pieces  of  coloured  silks  and  brocades  are  applied 
298 


ART  SPECIMENS— 111 

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ARTS  AND  INDUSTRIES 

in  a most  artistic  manner  with  elaborate  stitches  of  all 
kinds.  Many  of  them  are  veritable  works  of  art. 

Another  industry  in  which  the  Bhutanese  excel  is  basket- 
work  and  fine  matting  made  from  split  cane.  The  baskets 
are  beautifully  woven  of  very  finely  split  cane,  and  some 
of  the  lengths  are  coloured  to  form  a pattern.  They  are 
made  in  two  circular  pieces,  rounded  top  and  bottom,  and 
the  two  pieces  fit  so  closely  and  well  that  they  can  be  used  to 
carry  water.  They  are  from  six  to  fifteen  inches  in  diameter, 
and  the  Bhutanese  use  them  principally  to  carry  cooked 
rice  and  food.  They  also  make  much  larger  and  stronger 
baskets,  very  much  in  the  shape  of  a mule-pannier,  and 
these  are  used  in  a similar  way  for  pack-animals. 

The  mats  are  also  very  finely  woven  of  the  same  mate- 
rial, with  a certain  amount  of  the  split  cane  dyed  to  form 
patterns.  They  are  delightfully  fine  and  soft,  so  flexible 
that  they  can  be  rolled  up  into  quite  a small  space,  and 
very  durable,  and  can  be  got  in  almost  any  size  up  to  about 
sixteen  feet  square,  and  even  larger  if  they  are  required. 

Possibly  the  excellence  of  the  work  produced  in  Bhutan 
owes  much  to  the  feudal  system  which  still  prevails  there. 
Each  Penlop  and  Jongpen  has  his  own  workmen  amongst 
his  retainers,  men  who  are  not  paid  by  the  piece,  and  are 
not  obliged  either  to  work  up  to  time  or  to  work  if  the  spirit 
is  not  in  them,  and  consequently  they  put  their  souls  into 
what  they  do,  with  the  result  that  some  pieces  of  splendid 
individuality  and  excellent  finish  are  still  made.  No  two 
pieces  are  ever  quite  alike,  and  each  workman  leaves  his 
impress  on  his  work. 

The  same  ought  to  apply  to  Tibet,  but  I have  seen  no 
work  from  Tibet  which  can  compare  in  any  way  with  that 
from  Bhutan.  Possibly  the  environments  of  Tibet  are  not 
conducive  to  such  excellence ; the  people  are  more  servile 
and  less  independent,  a condition  always  detrimental  to 
good  work  of  any  kind.  Metal-work  in  Tibet  is  of  the  same 
description  as  that  in  Sikhim  and  Bhutan,  and  is  all  made 
in  the  same  way,  but  any  specimens  I have  seen  are  inferior 
299 


SIKHIM  AND  BHUTAN 

in  workmanship.  From  Nepal,  on  the  other  hand,  I have 
had  some  excellent  work,  with  marked  signs  of  individuality, 
especially  in  their  brass  castings.  Some  of  the  “singhis,” 
or  brass  demon  dogs,  are  very  characteristic. 

I have  omitted  to  mention  wood-carving,  in  which  Nepal, 
Sikhim,  and  Bhutan  all  excel.  In  the  former  especially 
the  wood-carving  is  of  a very  high  order,  and  the  houses 
in  Khatmandu,  and  especially  in  the  older  city  of  Pathan, 
are  exquisitely  ornamented  with  carved  doors,  windows, 
balconies,  eaves  ; and  some  of  them  even  have  carvings 
on  the  ridges  of  the  tiled  roofs. 

In  Sikhim  and  Bhutan,  in  nearly  every  monastery 
and  J ong,  and  also  in  the  better  houses,  many  good  carvings 
are  to  be  found,  and  the  work  is  bold  and  effective. 

I am  giving  some  photographs  showing  a few  specimens 
of  the  various  arts  and  crafts,  but  they  hardly  do  justice 
to  the  best  workmanship.  Unfortunately,  the  greater  part 
of  my  collection  is  still  packed  away,  and  I am  unable  to 
illustrate  all  I could  wish.  But  I think  I have  said  enough 
to  show  that  the  hill  people  on  this  frontier  possess  an 
artistic  temperament,  and  can  turn  out  most  excellent 
work  which  compares  favourably  with  that  of  other  Oriental 
craftsmen. 


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ART  SPECIMENS— IV 

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APPENDIX  I 


THE  LAWS  OF  BHUTAN 

A Brief  Outline  of  the  Laws  and  Rules  laid  down 
for  the  Government  of  Bhutan 

The  form  of  government  is  twofold,  viz.,  spiritual  and  temporal. 

1.  The  spiritual  laws  are  said  to  resemble  a silken  knot — i.e., 
easy  and  light  at  first,  but  gradually  becoming  tighter  and  tighter. 

2.  The  temporal  or  monarchical  laws  resemble  a golden  yoke — 
i.e.,  growing  heavier  and  heavier  by'degrees. 

This  twofold  law  was  composed  by  a spirit  of  perfect  disinterested- 
ness. 

This  twofold  system  of  government  established  in  Bhutan 
rendered  the  country  happy  and  prosperous,  taking  for  example 
the  system  of  the  great  Saint-King  of  Tibet,  whose  very  first  pro- 
hibition was  against  the  taking  of  life,  a crime  punished  by  the 
realisation  of  blood-money  in  case  of  homicide,  and  damages  or 
fine  in  case  of  attempted  homicide.  A penalty  of  hundredfold 
repayment  was  realisable  in  cases  of  robbery  or  theft  of  church  or 
monastic  property,  eightyfold  repayment  in  cases  of  stealing  the 
king’s  property,  eightfold  repayment  in  cases  of  theft  amongst 
subjects.  Adultery  was  punishable  by  fines.  Falsehood  was 
punishable  by  the  offender  being  put  to  oath  in  a temple,  and  the 
invocation  of  tutelar  deities  and  gods.  Over  and  above  the  pre- 
vention of  the  ten  impious  acts,  all  were  required  to  regard  parents 
with  filial  respect  and  affection,  and  elders  with  reverence,  to  receive 
with  gratitude  any  kind  action  done  by  others  to  themselves,  and, 
lastly,  to  avoid  dishonesty  and  the  use  of  false  measures,  which 
constitute  the  sixteen  acts  of  social  piety. 

Although  Bhutan  had  been  once  effectually  brought  under  the 
beneficent  influence  of  strict  law  and  justice,  it  subsequently,  on 
301 


APPENDIX  I 

account  of  general  corruption  and  laxity  on  the  part  of  those  in 
authority,  became  slack  in  all  branches. 

If  this  should  be  allowed  to  continue,  there  would  be  no  dis- 
crimination between  right  and  wrongdoing,  no  justice,  and  without 
justice  human  beings  cannot  have  happiness  and  peace.  If  there 
were  no  peace  or  happiness  for  human  beings,  the  Dukpa  Hierarchy 
would  have  failed  in  its  errand  upon  this  earth,  and  it  would  be  use- 
less for  it  to  exist  longer.  Therefore,  bearing  the  interest  of  the 
Hierarchy  at  heart,  every  one  is  exhorted  to  leave  all  partiahty 
aside  and  to  act  up  to  a true  sense  of  justice,  emulating  the  great 
Saint-King  Srongtsan  Gompo  of  Tibet. 

For  it  is  said  that  Universal  Happiness  depends  upon  the  exist- 
ence of  the  Jina’s  Hierarchy,  and  that,  in  its  turn,  depends  upon  the 
character  of  individual  Hierarchs.  But  it  is  unfortunately  the 
general  custom  now  for  those  who  are  in  authority  to  give  way 
to  their  own  selfish  and  immeasurable  greed  of  gain,  to  satisfy 
which  they  resort  to  extortion  by  oppressive  means — e.g.,  binding, 
beating,  and  imprisoning — thus  rendering  the  subjects  as  miserable 
as  tantalised  ghosts  in  this  very  lifetime.  And  the  elders  of  the 
village — i.e.,  mandals  and  pipons — in  their  turn  act  the  part  of  spies 
and  inform  those  above  them  as  to  who  amongst  the  raiyats  have 
some  articles  of  value  or  riches.  Thus  they  render  the  clear  foun- 
tain of  justice  muddy  and  foul.  Therefore  it  is  extremely  neces- 
sary that  he  who  enjoys  the  privilege  of  being  the  Dharma  Raja 
should  use  the  utmost  circumspection  in  finding  out  the  real  truth 
and  facts,  when  it  happens  that  cases  are  brought  before  him  for 
trial,  so  that  the  innocent  be  not  punished  for  nothing  and  the  wrong- 
doer escape  unpunished.  To  enforce  temporal  laws  by  punishing 
sinful  and  impious  acts  in  perfect  accordance  with  moral  and  religious 
laws  is  the  essence  of  the 

Commandments  of  the  Jinas. 

A Brief  Outline  of  the  Proper  Course  of  Action 
for  Deb  Rajas 

Buddha  says  in  the  Sutras,  “ A king,  if  he  is  fond  of  Dharma 
[Righteousness],  finds  the  path  to  happiness  both  in  this  and  in  the 
future  lives.  The  subjects  will  act  as  the  ruler  acts,  and  there- 
fore should  the  ruler  strive  to  learn  Righteousness.” 

They  should  encourage  religious  institutions  and  the  inculcation 
of  knowledge,  and  religious  sentiment  therein. 

302 


APPENDIX  I 


They  should  see  that  the  priests  are  properly  trained  in  the 
ten  pious  acts ; that  they  gain  the  necessary  accomplishments  in 
[a)  dancing,  (5)  drawing,  or  making  mandalas,  and  (c)  psalm- 
singing ; besides  acquiring  knowledge  in  the  twofold  method  of 
meditation.  The  above  should  be  for  those  who  expect  to  spend 
their  lives  as  priests.  Those  who  are  to  acquire  the  other  branches 
of  learning,  such  as  rhetoric,  poetry,  and  dialectics,  also  must  be 
■encouraged,  and  their  progress  enforced  by  periodical  examinations 
in  each  of  these  several  branches. 

An  annual  circular  perwana  should  be  issued  to  those  in  charge 
of  the  State  monasteries,  requiring  that  the  monastic  properties  of 
value,  whether  they  be  ornaments  for  the  altar,  treasures,  coins, 
plates,  utensils,  &c.,  should  not  be  disposed  of  or  misused  in  any  way. 
To  those  also  amongst  the  priesthood  who  are  engaged  in  handi- 
crafts ( e.g painting,  sewing,  embroidery,  carving,  modelling,  &c.), 
and  those  also  who  are  engaged  in  menial  service,  should  be  taught 
thoroughly  writing  and  rituals,  and  they  should  be  thoroughly 
imbued  with  the  ten  pious  sentiments.  In  short,  the  Deb  should 
consider  it  a daily  duty  to  inquire  into  the  state  of  the  raiyats’ 
condition,  whether  they  are  happy  or  unhappy,  contented  or  dis- 
contented, and  strain  his  utmost  power  to  render  them  happy. 

They  should  prohibit  indiscriminate  life-taking,  by  forbidding 
cruel  sport  on  the  hills  and  fishing  in  the  rivers.  This  effectually 
strikes  at  the  cause  of  several  ills  in  the  future. 

The  collection  of  taxes,  raising  of  labour  contributions,  and 
trial  of  cases  constitute  the  administrative  duties,  on  the  proper 
discharge  of  which  depends  the  happiness  of  a nation. 

A constant  check  and  inquiry  as  to  whether,  out  of  those  who 
are  sent  on  these  duties,  there  are  any  who  exempt  certain  persons, 
some  from  partiality,  and  tax  others  heavily  in  consequence  of 
grudges  or  prejudice,  should  be  exercised  and  kept  up. 

The  officers  posted  on  the  frontiers  should  be  constantly  reminded 
of  the  fact  that  the  peace  of  the  central  nation  depends  upon  the  con- 
duct of  the  borderers.  The  borderers,  if  they  commit  lawless  raids 
into  others’  territories  in  their  vicinity,  will  give  occasion  for  reprisals 
and  involve  the  nation  in  the  horrors  of  foreign  warfare  in  an  unjust 
cause.  Therefore  they  should  be  exhorted  to  live  peaceably. 

To  be  brief,  these  are  the  three  ends  to  be  secured  : 

1.  The  contentment  of  the  raiyats. 

2.  The  proper  influence  of  and  respect  for  officials  or  authorities. 

3.  The  support  of  the  Sangha,  or  the  body  of  the  Trinity. 

303 


APPENDIX  I 


Therefore  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  Deb  Raja,  as  the 
temporal  ruler  of  the  people,  should  be  well  versed  in  the  method 
of  securing  these  ends. 

The  most  effectual  and  shortest  method  of  securing  the  first 
end,  the  raiyats’  happiness,  is  by  administering  strict  justice.  If 
a ruler  would  devote  himself  to  administering  justice  impartially, 
he  would  make  all  his  subjects  happy  in  a single  day.  For  it  was 
by  this  means  that  the  ancient  dynasty  of  Tibetan  kings  secured 
happiness  for  their  subjects  and  popularity  for  the  rulers  them- 
selves, and  also  by  which  the  Dharma  Raja  of  Bhutan  (Shabdung 
Rimpochi)  succeeded  in  subduing  the  stiff-necked  and  lawless  people 
of  Bhutan,  and  rendering  his  reign  so  very  glorious  and  popular. 
The  main  end  of  establishing  law  and  justice  is  to  give  peace  and 
security  to  both  the  ruler  and  his  subjects,  and  in  particular  to 
promulgate  the  Dharma  and  to  perpetuate  the  Hierarchy  of  the 
Buddhist  Sangha,  which  embodies  and  represents  the  three  chief 
principles  of  the  Buddhist  Trinity. 

Of  late  a dangerous  laxity  has  crept  into  all  branches  of 
justice. 

Priests  who  break  their  vow  of  celibacy,  and  criminals  who 
are  guilty  of  homicide,  robbery,  and  otherwise  disturbing  public 
peace,  go  unpunished.  This  not  only  sets  a bad  example  for  the 
future,  but  endangers  present  tranquillity,  and  encourages  crime 
and  breach  of  faith.  Thus  the  country  becomes  filled  with  vow- 
breakers  and  knaves,  and  public  peace  is  destroyed.  It  is  said, 
“ The  violation  of  spiritual  laws  makes  the  Guardian  Deities  retreat 
to  the  Abode  of  Passivity,  and  allows  the  foul  breath  of  the  mis- 
chievous Fiends  to  pervade  everywhere.  The  breach  of  Social 
Laws  weakens  the  power  of  the  Gods,  and  the  Demons  of  Darkness 
laugh  with  joy.”  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  compel  the  priests 
who  have  violated  their  oaths  to  change  their  modes  of  dress  and 
give  up  other  priestly  habits. 

Moreover,  at  present  the  use  of  a most  filthy  and  noxious  herb, 
called  tobacco,  is  spreading  amongst  the  sepoys  and  raiyats,  who 
use  it  incessantly.  This  is  sure  to  steep  the  sacred  images  and  books 
in  pollution  and  filth.  It  has  been  prophesied  by  Ugyen  Padma 
Jungna  that  it  will  cause  wars  and  bring  epidemics.  So  unless 
every  one  of  the  provincial  Governors,  Kazis,  Subahs,  and  Head- 
men strives  to  stop  the  use  of  this  poisonous  and  evil  stuff  by  fining 
those  who  deal  in  it,  and  those  who  use  it,  they  will  be  sure  to  feel 
heavily  the  consequences  of  such  neglect  themselves. 

304 


APPENDIX  I 

If  those  who  are  rulers,  having  the  opportunity  to  render  their 
subjects  happy,  neglect  their  duties,  then  where  is  the  difference 
between  them  and  the  Prince  of  the  Devils  ? In  worldly  matters 
it  is  not  always  mild  means  which  conquer  and  subdue  rude  and 
evil  persons,  but  sometimes  stern  measures  have  to  be  adopted. 
So  when  there  are  law-breakers  or  evildoers  the  ruler’s  duty  is 
to  punish  them  sternly,  putting  aside  all  consideration  of  pity  and 
sympathy.  This  is  the  path  by  which  a king  on  his  throne  obtains 
salvation. 

Although  the  rulers  are  responsible  for  the  general  prosperity 
of  a nation,  yet  it  is  the  local  authorities  on  whom  lie  the  responsi- 
bilities of  a province  or  district.  The  deputies  (who  are  sent  to  in- 
quire into  a case),  and  the  headman  who  reports,  are  the  chief  per- 
sons on  whom  the  real  burden  of  a fair  trial  lies.  The  establishment 
of  a second-grade  Kuchap,  as  well  as  that  of  a Lama  and  Hyerpa 
combined,  should  consist  of  two  orderlies  or  sepoys  and  one  syce, 
and  ordinary  Kuchaps  should  have  only  one  orderly  and  one  syce. 
Officers’  tours  entail  too  much  expense  and  trouble  on  the  raiyats,  so 
unless  it  be  for  transfers  or  new  appointments,  officers’  tours  should 
be  restricted  as  much  as  possible,  and  they  should  not  be  allowed 
to  travel  about  on  any  trivial  pretence.  The  husking  of  paddy 
should  not  be  given  in  dribbling  quantities,  but  in  a large  quantity 
at  one  time  ; nor  should  rice  be  realised  over  the  actual  out-turn  of 
the  husking.  The  raiyats  should  not  be  dispossessed  of  any  gold, 
turquoise,  vessels,  cattle,  or  ponies  they  may  possess  on  frivolous 
pretences  of  extortionate  rates  of  interest  on  trading  capital  lent 
by  the  headmen,  nor  should  any  headmen  request  subscriptions  by 
means  of  giving  charm  threads  or  cheap  clothes.  All  barter  or 
trading  should  be  carried  on  at  fair  prevailing  rates,  and  not  at 
extortionate  and  preferential  ones.  Forced  gifts  of  salt  or  butter 
should  not  be  made.  No  wearing  wool  should  be  given,  no  sheep’s 
load  should  be  realised.  All  Jongpens  and  Head  Lamas  of  monas- 
teries shall  not  try  to  realise  any  gifts  by  going  round  visiting  raiyats. 

The  sale  and  purchase  of  slaves  (plainsmen)  must  not  be  per- 
mitted. Any  one  persisting  in  it  should  be  reported  to  the  Durbar 
authorities.  State  officers  will  not  be  entitled  to  any  coolies  or  rations 
from  the  State,  if  they  are  going  to  visit  a hot  spring  or  mineral- 
water  spring  for  their  own  health,  but  they  shall  provide  them- 
selves with  the  necessary  provisions  and  coolies  on  such  occasions. 
When  officers  are  out  on  their  own  account  they  shall  not  present 
themselves  at  the  Jongs,  and  if  they  do  the  Jongs  shall  not  provide 
305  u 


APPENDIX  I 

them  with  the  usual  rations  to  which  they  would  otherwise  be 
entitled. 

The  officers  in  charge  of  the  several  Jongs  should  report  to  the 
Durbar  what  amount  of  free  labour  has  been  enforced,  how  many 
coolies  supplied,  or  how  many  coolie-loads  have  been  conveyed, 
and  for  whom,  or  by  whose  order,  on  what  date,  and  so  on.  Should 
any  officer  at  the  different  stages  permit  any  load  to  be  conveyed 
free  of  cost  to  the  owner  without  reporting,  he  shall  be  liable  to  a 
heavy  fine. 

A Kuchap  can  keep  one  pony,  and  may  perhaps  be  entrusted 
with  the  feed  of  a pony  from  the  Superior  Jongpen.  Over  and 
above  these  he  may  not  maintain  any  ponies  at  the  cost  of  the 
State.  Should  he  do  so  he  will  forfeit  the  same  to  the  J ong.  He  may, 
however,  by  paying  a licence  fee  of  over  one  hundred  tankas  to  his 
Jong,  be  allowed  to  maintain  one  more  pony.  But  on  no  account 
is  he  to  be  allowed  to  maintain  more  than  three  ponies  at  the  cost 
of  the  State.  Should  he  desire  to  give  a pony  in  the  place  of  the 
annual  revenue,  he  may  not  send  any  raiyat  to  purchase  it  from 
any  market.  In  case  of  complaints  made  to  him,  he  may  not 
receive  anything  over  a measure  of  pachwai  murwa,  not  so  much 
as  a square  bit  of  silk  in  kind,  nor  a tanka  in  cash.  A Kuchap 
should  report  all  cases,  be  they  light  or  important,  to  the  J ong,  and 
by  no  means  decide  any  himself.  At  harvest-time  a Kuchap 
should  not  take  the  opportunity  of  visiting  his  field  border,  or 
turn  it  to  a means  of  going  on  a rambling  visit  to  his  raiyats.  Nor 
should  a Kuchap  make  slight  cattle  trespasses  upon  the  border 
of  his  fields  the  pretence  for  realising  heavy  damages  from  his 
raiyats.  The  Kuchaps  or  other  responsible  officers  must  not  be 
wine-bibbers,  fornicators,  nor  adulterers.  Should  they  be  guilty 
of  any  of  the  above  faults,  they  render  themselves  enemies  to  public 
peace,  and  thereby  liable  to  dismissal  from  their  office  in  disgrace. 

The  collection  of  the  taxes  in  kind,  such  as  meat  and  butter, 
must  be  considered  and  settled  at  the  Kuchang’s  own  place,  with 
the  assistance  of  the  elders,  and  karbaris  or  mandals  under  him, 
after  which  he  will  submit  the  proposed  demand  rent-roll  to  the 
Jongpen,  his  immediate  and  chief  superior,  for  sanction  and  order. 
Only  upon’obtaining  such  sanction  can  he  realise  the  rents  in  kind. 

Should  any  guests  have  to  be  provided  for,  it  will  not  do  for  him 
to’realise  the  provisions  or  their  equivalent  from  the  raiyats,  but  he 
should^quarter  them  on  the  houses  in  turn.  The  guests  should  on  no 
account^expect  luxuries,  but  bare  necessaries. 

306 


APPENDIX  I 


The  Kuchap  must  not  grant  any  remission  of  rents  of  either  kind, 
on  consideration  of  any  private  gift  to  himself. 

The  Kuchap  may  not  accept  the  first  portion  of  any  ceremonial 
feast,  be  it  for  the  dead  or  the  living.  He  should  not  accept  or 
demand  any  present  for  marriages  or  separations. 

When  sending  out  for  collections,  he  should  send  a pipon,  who 
will  represent  an  orderly,  a mandal,  and  a karbari  in  one.  This 
man  shall  not  realise  anything  on  his  own  account.  He  shall  not 
accept  any  present  from  cattle-keepers.  Any  mandal,  or  lamas  or 
shalugos  who  have  been  appointed  to  any  posts,  requiring  to  go 
to  the  seat  of  the  Durbar,  must  not  take  any  raiyats  to  accompany 
them,  nor  should  they  raise  any  tax  on  the  pretence  of  nazars  for 
the  Durbar.  Any  officers,  village  headmen,  who  have  obtained 
permission  to  retire  from  service  on  account  of  old  age,  infirmities, 
&c.,  must  not  finger  above  three  days  in  the  Jong.  Any  foreigners 
or  strangers  arriving  in  their  jurisdiction  must  be  reported  and 
presented  to  their  superior  at  the  Jong.  They  must  not  harbour 
or  receive  any  such.  Anybody  found  harbouring  robbers  or  thieves 
must  be  punished  as  heavily  as  the  criminals  themselves. 

Any  slaves  attempting  to  escape  in  an  unhappy  mood  must  be 
detained,  and  should  any  one  after  having  harboured  one  fail  to 
detain  him  the  same  shall  make  good  the  slave.  But,  on  the  other 
hand,  if  any  one  succeed  in  handing  back  to  the  owner  the  escaped 
slave  the  same  must  be  compensated,  due  consideration  being  taken 
regarding  the  distance,  the  time,  the  cost  and  expenses  incurred  in 
the  performance  of  the  enterprise. 

Two  different  raiyats  cannot  combine  into  one.  A holding 
may  be  enjoyed  both  by  a son  or,  if  there  is  no  son,  by  a daughter. 
A raiyat  who  is  aged,  and  has  neither  daughter  nor  son,  may  be 
asked  only  to  render  such  labour  and  service  for  revenue  as  he  is 
able  to  perform  alone  as  long  as  he  fives  ; upon  his  or  her  decease 
the  same  holding  shall  pass  to  the  nearest  kith  or  kin,  who  will 
thenceforth  be  expected  to  render  both  labour  and  cash  and  kind 
revenues.  No  marriages  or  permanent  connections  should  be 
allowed  where  the  parents  do  not  approve.  And  whereas,  where 
there  are  two  or  three  holdings  and  houses  which  used  to  pay 
taxes  separately  now  combined  in  one,  with  a view  of  lightening 
the  labour  contribution,  it  must  be  ruled  that  this  be  not  permitted 
or  tolerated,  as  it  is  a bad  precedent.  If  there  be  any,  either  a 
male  or  a female,  heir  to  the  property,  the  same  should  be  com- 
pelled to  make  good  the  State  revenue.  If  there  are  no  heirs  in  the 

307 


APPENDIX  I 

line,  then  it  should  be  made  over  to  the  nearest  kin,  or  to  such 
person  whom  the  owner  wills  as  his  assignee,  who  will  thenceforth 
make  good  the  State  revenue.  Those  who  own  properties  in  land 
and  houses,  and  yet  live  untaxed  in  towns,  should  be  made  to 
render  proportionate  labour  contribution  and  rents  in  cash  and 
kind  with  the  value  and  area  of  their  properties. 

Whereas  the  slaughter  of  many  animals  on  account  of  funeral 
ceremonies  is  bad,  both  on  account  of  the  deceased  as  well  as  the 
living,  henceforth  it  is  expedient  to  offer  simple  gifts  on  these 
occasions,  which  shall  be  regulated  as  follows  : 

1.  For  the  Durbar,  in  lieu  of  a head  and  limb  the  value  of  half  a 
tanka. 

2.  For  the  Lama,  the  price  of  a piece  of  cotton  cloth. 

But  if  the  party  be  poor  and  cannot  afford  the  gifts,  but  simply 
some  offerings  for  the  deceased,  then  he  shall  be  liable  to  the  above 
costs  only  in  case  of  Durbar  and  Lama,  and  for  the  assistant  priests 
he  can  give  rice  in  lieu  of  meat,  about  four  manas.  But  if  one 
animal  has  to  be  slaughtered,  on  no  account  shall  he  exceed  one 
life,  out  of  which  he  must  defray  the  necessary  meat  expenses. 

A monastery  Head  Lama  shall  perform  the  cremation  within 
one  day  in  summer  and  two  in  winter ; he  must  not  exceed  this 
time,  on  his  own  responsibility.  The  number  of  priests  to  attend 
a funeral,  and  the  fees  to  be  received  by  them,  are  the  same  as  at 
the  capital  or  Durbar.  But  if  the  Head  Lama  is  delayed  in  coming 
or  prevented  from  coming,  the  layman  must  have  the  obsequies 
partially  performed  at  home,  and  must  take  such  stores  with  him 
with  which  he  can  have  the  same  performed  at  a monastery.  No 
freehold  grants  to  lamas  for  their  support  shall  be  sold.  The 
laymen  shall  not  stop  supporting  the  lamas.  Should  any  wealthy 
or  propertied  lama  die,  his  chief  supporting  layman  or  disciple 
shall  utilise  his  property  in  meritorious  charity.  When  any  State- 
supported  and  retired  lamas  die,  their  effects,  if  they  are  books, 
images,  or  altar  appurtenance,  shall  be  offered  to  the  State  or  Deb 
as  obsequies  offerings,  and  the  rest  shall  be  devoted  to  funeral 
ceremonies  to  the  best  account.  When  it  becomes  necessary  to 
build  a cell  to  serve  as  a retreat  for  any  lama  of  the  monastery, 
it  shall  be  within  the  compound  or  in  the  vicinity  of  a monastery 
or  other  religious  institution,  and  not  in  the  vicinity  of  a village 
or  any  hill  spur.  Should  any  child  be  bom  to  a couple,  as  the 
result  of  a connection  within  monastery  precincts,  the  same  couple 
shall  be  considered  to  have  reverted  to  the  world,  and  their  life 
308 


APPENDIX  I 


must  be  passed  amongst  the  villages,  and  they  shall  accordingly 
be  made  to  fill  up  any  vacancy  amongst  the  raiyats,  and  shall  be 
liable  to  the  same  taxes  and  labour  contributions  as  any  other  raiyat. 

Should  any  member  or  Tape  of  the  monastery  loiter  more  than 
fifteen  days  amongst  the  villages,  otherwise  than  on  some  special 
business  of  the  Head  Lamas,  or  their  own,  and  on  the  usual  charity 
begging  purpose,  the  same  shall  be  liable  to  be  forced  to  render 
the  usual  labour  contribution  by  the  village  headmen.  The 
Head  Lamas  of  the  several  monasteries,  too,  must,  except  on  the 
occasions  of  the  annual  congregation  for  observing  the  Buddhist 
holidays,  always  pass  their  time  in  retreats.  They  shall  use  their 
utmost  efforts  to  effectually  put  an  end  to  any  sham  or  charlatanism, 
necromancy,  quackery,  and  false  witchcraft.  The  licensed  as  well 
as  private  Manewas  (those  who  go  about  singing  “ Om  mani  padmi 
hum  ”)  shall  only  enjoy  such  offerings  as  are  made  voluntarily  ; 
there  shall  be  no  tax  for  them.  No  one  shall  harbour  any  mis- 
chievous person  who  has  been  banished  from  a Jong  for  some 
roguery. 

A thief  or  robber,  killed  while  in  the  commission  of  theft  or 
robbery,  dies  without  any  hope  of  redress.  The  man  who  kills  a 
thief  in  the  above  manner  is  not  liable  to  any  punishment.  But 
otherwise  one  who  takes  out  his  sword  (for  threatening  or  for- 
striking)  is  liable  to  sword  fine. 

One  committing  homicide  must  be  bound  to  the  corpse  of  the- 
deceased  whom  he  has  killed.  If  he  escapes  after  committing 
homicide,  he  may  be  killed  wherever  and  whenever  he  is  caught  _ 
The  offspring  of  a homicide  shall  be  banished  from  their  home. 

Any  one  killing  notorious  highway  robbers,  any  wild  beastsr 
which  are  working  much  havoc  in  a country,  or  who  has  performed 
heroic  service  amongst  enemies  during  war  should  be  encouraged 
by  gifts  of  robes  or  clothes  according  to  merit. 

The  headmen  should  inspect  the  products  of  their  country 
industries,  and  see  that  they  are  honest  and  solid  in  make  and 
texture. 

The  merchants  who  have  the  responsibility  of  the  import  trade 
at  the  different  marts  also  must  satisfy  themselves  that  they  get 
good  things,  and  all  the  traders  must  obey  the  State  merchant  in 
these  particulars.  Any  one  acting  in  defiance  of  these  rules,  and 
any  one  found  forging  Government  letters,  or  altering  their  mean- 
ing, or  attempting  detention  or  miscarriage  of  such  orders  issued 
from  the  seat  of  the  Government,  shall  be  dealt  with  severely, 

309 


APPENDIX  I 

inasmuch  as  they  shall  be  deprived  of  their  sight  or  of  life  by 
decapitation. 

From  the  Dharma  Raja  at  the  head  of  all  the  ruling  officers, 
including  Lamas,  Jongpens,  Penlops,  &c.,  down  to  the  Mandals  and 
responsible  village  headmen,  if  they  do  not  act  in  accordance 
with  the  above,  if  they  do  not  regard  public  prosperity  nor  check 
their  subordinates,  if  they  suffer  Karmic  laws  to  be  subverted,  and 
tolerate  the  spread  of  evil  without  making  an  effort  to  remedy  it, 
then  how  will  the  Spiritual  Guardians  help  them ! Thus,  in  con- 
formity with  the  text  “ Those  who  offer  insults  to  those  who  live 
in  Righteousness  are  worthy  of  being  exterminated,”  they  shall 
surely  be  offered  up  as  fitting  sacrifice  on  the  altar  of  the  Great  and 
Terrible  Mahakal. 

But,  on  the  other  hand,  if  all  observe  the  above  rules,  which 
they  must  understand  are  for  their  general  as  well  as  individual 
good,  they  will  put  their  faith  in  the  threefold  Rare  One  (Tri  Ratua) 
as  their  God  and  witness,  and  regard  the  Chagdzod  (Deb  Raja)  as 
the  human  liege  lord  who  has  been  entrusted  with  the  weal  of  the 
nation  and  the  prosperity  of  the  Hierarchy  in  general,  and  serve 
him  unto  death  most  loyally  and  energetically,  just  as  the  great 
Righteous  Prime  Minister  Garwa  did  formerly. 

This  completes  the  brief  code  of  rules  and  regulations  of  the 
great  Dharma  Raja,  of  which  this  is  the  chapter  regarding  the 
officials  and  provincial  governors,  and  their  subordinate  Kazis  and 
Subahs. 


310 


APPENDIX  II 


THE  LAWS  OF  SIKHIM  AND  MARRIAGE  CUSTOMS 
SIKHIM  LAWS 

A Brief  Translation  of  the  Sikhim  Laws,  taken  from 
a Tibetan  Manuscript  given  to  me  by  the  late 
Khangsa  Dewan 

HISTORY 

The  Sikhim  laws  are  founded  on  those  spoken  by  Raja  Melong- 
dong,  who  lived  in  India  before  the  time  of  Buddha  (914  b.c.).  This 
Raja  is  mentioned  in  the  Ka-gyur,  in  the  thirty-first  chapter. 

They  were  again  written  by  Kun-ga-gyal-tsan  of  Sa-kya-pa, 
who  was  born  in  1182.  He  was  king  of  thirteen  provinces  in 
Tibet,  and  has  called  the  laws  Tim-yik-shal-che-chu-sum,  or  Chu- 
dug,  there  being  two  sets,  one  containing  thirteen  laws  and  the 
other  sixteen.  These  are  practically  the  same.  The  laws  were 
again  written  by  De-si-sangye  Gya-tsho,  who  was  bom  in  1653  and 
was  a Viceroy  of  Tibet.  They  were  called  by  him  Tang-shel-me- 
long-nyer-chik-pa. 

The  first  set  of  laws  deal  with  offences  in  general ; the  second 
set  forth  the  duties  of  kings  and  Government  servants,  and  are 
merely  an  amplification  of  some  of  the  laws  contained  in  the  former. 

SUMMARY  OF  THE  SIXTEEN  LAWS 
No.  1.  General  Rules  to  be  followed  in  Time  of  War 

(a)  It  is  written  in  the  Ka-gyur  that  before  going  to  war  the 
strength  of  the  enemy  should  be  carefully  ascertained,  and  whether 
any  profit  will  be  derived  or  not.  It  should  also  be  seen  if  the 
dispute  cannot  be  settled  by  diplomacy  before  going  to  war.  Care 

311 


APPENDIX  II 

should  also  be  taken  that  by  going  to  war  no  loss  be  sustained 
by  your  Government.  Whatever  the  cause  of  dispute,  letters  and 
messengers  between  the  contending  parties  should  on  no  account 
be  stopped,  and  messengers  should  be  properly  treated.  Any  one 
coming  with  overtures  of  peace  should  be  well  received. 

(6)  Should  two  or  more  enemies  combine  against  you,  no  means 
should  be  left  untried  to  separate  them,  and  if  possible  to  bring 
one  over  to  your  side,  but  false  oaths  should  not  be  resorted  to,  nor 
the  using  of  God’s  name. 

(c)  The  he  of  the  ground  should  be  well  examined  to  see  how 
the  roads  run,  and  whether  your  position  is  strong. 

(i)  If  it  is  necessary  to  go  to  war,  other  methods  having  failed, 
you  should  all  combine,  and,  being  of  one  mind,  should  attack.  See 
that  there  are  no  sick,  lazy,  or  timid  in  the  ranks,  but  only  those  who 
fear  not  death.  See  that  your  own  soldiers  obey  the  law,  and  all 
should  obey  the  orders  of  the  general.  Experienced  men  only 
should  be  sent,  and  not  those  who  look  after  their  own  interests. 

The  army  should  be  divided  into  three  divisions,  under  the 
command  of  different  officers.  The  general  and  his  staff  should 
be  trusted  men  who  can  guide  the  army  ; they  should  do  their 
work  thoroughly.  Your  horses,  tents,  and  arms  should  be  kept 
in  good  order.  A doctor,  a diviner,  an  astrologer,  and  a lama 
should  be  appointed. 

The  tents  should  be  properly  arranged  the  first  day,  and  this 
arrangement  adhered  to,  so  as  to  prevent  confusion.  On  moving, 
the  fires  should  first  be  put  out,  the  wounded  should  be  cared  for, 
and  in  crossing  rivers  order  should  be  kept,  and  those  behind  should 
not  push  forward.  Things  found  should  be  returned  without  asking 
for  a reward,  and  should  not  be  concealed  or  kept.  Thieves  are 
not  to  be  flogged,  but  only  to  have  their  hands  tied  behind  them, 
but  they  may  be  fined.  Should  one  man  kill  another  by  mistake, 
he  must  pay  the  funeral  expenses.  Should  several  combine  and 
kill  another,  they  must  pay  twice  the  fine  laid  down  by  law.  For 
any  disputed  loot  lots  must  be  drawn  by  the  contending  parties. 

The  general  should  appoint  sentries,  who  must  look  to  the 
water-supply  and  see  they  do  not  easily  become  alarmed.  They 
should  allow  no  armed  stranger  to  enter  the  camp,  and  should  be 
careful  not  to  kill  any  messenger.  If  a sentry  kills  a messenger 
coming  with  terms  of  peace,  he  shall  be  sent  to  his  home  in  disgrace 
on  some  old,  useless  horse  with  broken  harness. 


312 


APPENDIX  II 


No.  2.  For  those  who  are  being  defeated  and  cannot  fight 

When  a fort  is  surrounded  those  in  the  fort  should  remain  quiet 
and  should  show  no  fear.  They  should  not  fire  off  their  arms 
uselessly,  with  no  hope  of  hitting  the  enemy.  The  well  within  the 
fort  should  be  most  carefully  guarded.  Those  within  the  fort  should 
not  be  allowed  to  communicate  with  the  enemy  for  fear  of  treachery. 
They  must  not  be  lazy.  Until  peace  is  declared  the  messenger 
should  receive  no  reward. 

Should  you  be  defeated,  you  must  give  up  your  arms,  and  those 
who  give  them  up  must  not  be  killed.  Should  any  one  kill  a man  who 
has  given  up  his  arms  he  must  be  derided  and  scoffed  at  as  a coward. 

If  during  a conflict  you  capture  a general  or  officer  of  rank,  you 
should  bind  his  hands  in  front  with  a silk  scarf  j he  should  be  allowed 
to  ride  his  own  horse  or  another  good  horse,  and  should  be  treated 
well,  so  that  in  the  event  of  your  ever  falling  into  his  hands  he  may 
treat  you  well  also.  Any  other  prisoners  should  have  their  hands 
tied  behind  them,  and  they  should  be  made  to  walk.  Officers  should 
be  placed  on  old,  worn-out  horses,  with  broken  harness  and  rope 
stirrups.  Should  an  army  be  defeated  and  obliged  to  fly,  they 
should  not  be  reprimanded,  but  they  should  not  be  rewarded  or 
receive  any  presents,  even  though  the  leader  be  a great  man.  The 
prisoners  should  receive  what  is  necessary  for  subsistence,  and  also 
expenses  for  religious  ceremonies,  and  men  of  rank  should  be  treated 
well  and  with  consideration. 

A man  can  only  make  a treaty  for  himself  and  his  own  descendants. 

No.  3.  For  Officers  and  Government  Servants 

These  officers  should  abandon  their  own  work  and  apply  them- 
selves entirely  to  Government  work ; they  should  obey  the  orders 
of  the  Viceroy,  and  head  of  the  Church,  should  not  change  the  Shari 
(hat  sects)  and  Tub-tha  (religious  sects). 

In  the  fifth  month  they  should  kill  no  animals,  and  the  Raja’s 
store  should  be  well  kept,  so  that  there  be  no  deficiency.  They 
should  repair  the  images,  temples,  and  books,  and  all  passes  and 
roads.  Also  on  the  10th  of  this  month  the  “ dadok  ”*  ceremony 
must  be  performed. 

If  a man  be  sent  on  private  business,  the  name  of  Government 
should  not  be  used.  Debts  may  be  recovered  through  officers,  who 
should  patiently  hear  the  case,  and  not  give  arbitrary  orders.  They 
* This  puja  is  performed  in  order  to  remove  our  enemies. 

313 


APPENDIX  II 

should  give  just  judgments,  and  not  favour  those  who  can  reward 
them.  They  should  inquire  diligently  into  all  cases,  and  leave  no 
case  undecided,  so  that  all  men  can  say  their  work  has  been  well 
done. 

No.  4.  Law  of  Evidence 

You  should  listen  carefully  to  what  is  said  by  both  parties. 
Equals  by  birth  should  be  heard  at  the  same  time  and  place.  Those 
that  are  not  equals  should  be  heard  separately.  Should  any  one 
not  obey  your  decision,  he  can  be  fined. 

If  evidence  be  false  both  parties  are  fined,  according  to  which 
has  given  the  most  false  evidence. 

If  after  a decision  has  been  given  the  parties  wish  to  compound 
between  themselves,  one-half  of  the  fine  only  is  imposed. 

No.  5.  Grave  Offences. 

There  are  five  sins  : (1)  The  murder  of  a mother ; (2)  the 
murder  of  holy  men  ; (3)  the  murder  of  a father  ; (4)  making 
mischief  amongst  lamas ; and  (5)  causing  hurt  to  good  men. 
There  are  also  the  sins  of  taking  things  from  Rajas  and  lamas  for 
our  own  use  ; causing  a good  man  to  fall  through  no  fault  of  his 
own  ; administering  poison ; killing  any  one  for  gain  ; causing  strife 
in  a peaceful  country  ; and  making  mischief. 

For  the  above  offences  punishments  are  inflicted,  such  as  putting 
the  eyes  out,  cutting  the  throat,  having  the  tongue  cut  out,  having 
•the  hands  cut  off,  being  thrown  from  cliffs,  and  being  thrown  into 
deep  water. 

No.  6.  Fines  inflicted  for  Offences  in  order  to  make 
People  remember 

Certain  crimes  may  be  punished  by  money  fines,  varying  in 
accordance  with  the  gravity  of  the  offence. 

When  a number  of  men  have  committed  dacoity,  they  may  be 
fined  from  25  to  80  gold  srang.*  For  small  offences  smaller  fines 
are  imposed,  and  can  be  paid  either  in  money  or  in  kind,  the 
amount  to  be  settled  by  the  officer  trying  the  case. 

No.  7.  Law  of  Imprisonment 

Any  one  rioting,  using  arms,  and  disputing  near  the  court  can 
be  imprisoned.  Thieves,  and  those  who  destroy  property,  and 
* 1 srang  = 1 oz. 

314 


APPENDIX  II 

those  who  do  not  obey  the  village  headman,  those  who  give  bad 
advice,  those  who  abuse  their  betters,  can  be  bound  and  put  in  the 
stocks  and  fined  according  to  the  law,  and  only  released  if  some  one 
in  authority  makes  himself  responsible  for  the  fine  and  petitions 
for  their  release. 

No.  8.  In  the  Case  of  Offenders  who  refuse  to  appear  an 
Orderly  must  be  sent  expressly  to  inquire  into  the  Case 

A messenger  who  is  sent  off  at  a moment’s  notice  should  receive 
three  patties*  of  barley  per  diem  for  food  and  a small  sum  in  money, 
according  to  the  importance  of  the  case  in  which  he  is  employed, 
but  the  messenger’s  servants  should  not  be  fed.  The  messenger 
is  allowed  one-fourth  of  the  fine  for  his  expenses. 

Should  an  agent  not  settle  a case  properly,  he  must  return  to 
the  villagers  what  he  took,  otherwise  the  villagers  will  have  much 
trouble  given  them. 

The  agent  should  report  having  received  the  fine,  on  penalty  of 
forfeiting  one-fourth  what  he  has  taken.  When  a fine  is  imposed, 
it  should  be  at  once  collected,  no  excuse  being  taken.  If  an  agent 
is  sent  to  collect  rent  he  should  be  fed  twice  by  the  headman. 

Of  stolen  property  recovered  by  an  agent  the  Government 
receives  one-tenth  value. 


No.  9.  Murder 

For  killing  a man  the  fine  is  heavy — even  up  to  many  thousands 
of  gold  pieces.  In  the  Tsalpa  law-book  it  is  written  that  if  a child, 
a madman,  or  animal  kills  any  one  no  fine  is  taken,  but  that  money 
must  be  given  by  the  relations  of  the  first  two  for  funeral  expenses, 
and  one-fourth  of  that  amount  must  be  given  by  the  owner  of  the 
animal  towards  these  expenses. 

Should  one  man  kill  another  and  plead  for  mercy,  he  must, 
besides  the  fine,  give  compensation  and  food  to  the  relatives  of  the 
deceased. 

Should  a man  kill  his  equal  and  the  relatives  come  to  demand 
compensation,  he  must  give  them  18  oz.  of  gold  in  order  to  pacify 
them.  The  price  of  blood  should  never  be  too  much  reduced,  or 
a man  may  say,  “ If  this  is  all  I have  to  give,  I will  kill  another.” 

An  arbitrator  must  take  the  seal  of  each  party,  saying  they  will 
abide  by  his  decision,  and  they  must  each  deposit  3 oz.  of  gold  as 
security. 

* 17  patties  = 1 maund,  or  82  lb. 

315 


APPENDIX  II 

Fines  can  be  paid  in  cash,  animals,  and  articles  of  different 
kinds. 

The  price  for  killing  a gentleman  who  has  300  servants,  or  a 
superintendent  of  a district,  or  a lama  professor,  is  300  to  400 
gold  srang.  For  full  lamas,  Government  officers,  and  gentlemen 
with  100  servants  the  fine  is  200  oz.  of  gold. 

For  killing  gentlemen  who  possess  a horse  and  five  or  six  servants, 
or  working  lamas,  the  fine  is  145  to  150  oz.  of  gold. 

For  killing  men  with  no  rank,  old  lamas,  or  personal  servants 
the  fine  is  80  oz.  of  gold. 

For  killing  a man  who  has  done  good  work  for  Government  the 
fine  is  50  to  70  oz.  of  gold. 

For  killing  common  people  and  for  villagers  the  price  is  30  to 
40  oz.  of  gold. 

For  killing  unmarried  men,  servants,  and  butchers  the  price  is 
30  gold  srang ; and  for  killing  blacksmiths  and  beggars,  10  to  20  oz. 
of  gold. 

These  prices  can  also  be  paid  in  grain.  The  prices  for  funeral 
expenses  must  be  paid  within  forty-nine  days. 

On  the  fines  being  paid,  a letter  must  be  written,  and  a copy 
given  to  each  party,  saying  that  everything  has  been  settled.  If  a 
case  is  reopened  a fine  must  be  paid  by  him  who  opens  the  case. 
The  murderer  must  write  to  the  effect  he  will  not  commit  such  a 
crime  again.  Part  of  the  fines  can  be  given  towards  the  funeral 
expenses  of  the  deceased. 

No.  10.  Bloodshed 

In  the  old  law  it  is  written  that  for  any  drop  of  blood  shed  the 
price  varies  from  one  to  one-quarter  zho.*  A man  may  even  be 
beheaded  for  wounding  a superior.  For  wounding  his  own  servant 
a man  is  not  fined,  but  he  must  tend  the  wounded  man.  Should 
two  men  fight  and  one  wound  the  other,  he  who  first  drewffiis  knife 
is  fined,  and  he  who  is  wounded  must  be  tended  by  the  other  till 
his  wounds  be  well.  The  fines  are  payable  in  money  or  kind. 
Should  one  man  wound  another  without  any  fight,  he  is  fined 
according  to  the  law  of  murder. 

If  in  a fight  a limb  or  an  eye  is  injured  the  compensation  to  be 
given  is  fixed  by  Government. 


The  word  “ zho  ” means  a drachm,  or  is  a coin  two-thirds  of  a rupee. 

316 


APPENDIX  II 


No.  ii.  For  those  who  are  False  and  Avaricious  the 
following  Oaths  are  required 

If  it  is  thought  a man  is  not  telling  the  truth  an  oath  should  be 
administered.  At  the  time  of  taking  the  oath  powerful  gods  should 
be  invoked,  and  those  who  are  to  administer  the  oath  must  be 
present.  It  is  written  in  ancient  law  that  the  bird  of  Paradise 
should  not  be  killed,  the  poisonous  snake  should  not  be  thrown 
down,  the  raven  should  not  be  stoned,  and  the  small  turquoise 
should  not  be  defiled.  Thus  pure  lamas  and  monks  should  not 
be  sworn. 

Magicians,  shameless  persons,  women,  fools,  the  dumb,  and 
children  should  not  be  sworn. 

Men  should  be  employed  who  know  both  parties  and  are  intelli- 
gent and  truthful.  Those  willing  to  take  an  oath  should  be  of 
equal  rank.  When  all  are  present  the  case  should  first  be  settled, 
if  possible,  by  arbitration.  If  this  fails  the  ordeal  either  by  hot 
stone  or  boiling  oil  is  resorted  to. 

Ordeal  by  Oil. — The  oil  must  be  supplied  by  Government,  and  must 
be  pure.  It  is  boiled  in  a pan  at  least  three  inches  deep.  In  the  oil 
a black  stone  and  a white  stone  are  placed,  of  equal  size  and  weight. 
He  who  has  to  take  the  oath  must  first  wash  his  hands  in  water,  in 
milk,  and  in  widow’s  urine.  His  hand  is  then  bound  in  a cloth  and 
sealed.  This  is  done  a day  or  two  before  the  ordeal,  in  order  to  give 
him  a chance  of  confessing.  The  vessel  with  the  boiling  oil  is  then 
placed  so  that  the  stones  cannot  be  seen,  and  he  has  to  take  one 
out.  If  he  takes  out  the  white  one  without  any  bum  he  wins  his 
case.  He  who  gets  the  black  stone  is  sure  to  be  burnt,  and  loses 
his  case.  Should  he  who  gets  the  white  stone  be  slightly  burnt, 
it  means  he  has  partially  spoken  the  truth,  and  wins  half  his  case. 

Ordeal  by  Hot  Stone. — The  stone  is  made  hot  by  the  blacksmith, 
taken  out  of  the  fire  with  tongs,  and  placed  on  a brass  dish.  The 
man’s  hands  are  washed  as  before,  examined  to  see  what  marks 
there  are  produced  by  labour,  and  the  hot  stone  placed  in  the 
palm.  With  the  stone  he  must  walk  four  to  seven  paces.  His 
hand  is  then  bound  up,  and  left  for  three  to  seven  days.  On  examina- 
tion, if  there  are  no  marks,  or  if  there  is  a long  markcalled  rdo-lam, 
he  wins  his  case.  He  also  wins  his  case  if  the  stone  bursts  three 
times  in  being  heated.  It  depends  on  the  number  of  marks  how 
much  of  his  case  he  wins. 

A cloth  and  a mg  have  to  be  paid  as  expenses,  and  the  brass 
3i7 


APPENDIX  II 


vessels  go  to  the  blacksmith.  In  order  to  test  the  oil  for  boiling, 
a grain  of  barley  is  thrown  in  ; if  it  flies  into  the  air  the  oil  is  ready. 

Whilst  placing  his  hand  in  the  oil  or  holding]  the  hot  stone  a 
statement  in  writing  of  the  case  is  placed  on  the  person’s  head. 

The  ordeal  by  oil  may  be  gone  through  without  using  the  stone. 

Mud  and  water  can  be  used  in  place  of  oil.  Hot  iron  used  to  be 
employed  in  place  of  the  stone,  but  is  now  discontinued. 

No.  12.  Theft 

For  taking  a Jongpen’s  or  other  great  man’s  property  10,000 
times  their  value  has  to  be  given  in  return.  For  taking  a lama’s 
property  eighty  times  their  value  has  to  be  given,  a neighbour’s 
property  nine  times,  and  a villager’s  seven  times;  for  taking  a 
stranger’s  property  four  times. 

Beggars  who  steal  from  hunger  have  only  to  give  back  what  they 
took. 

Should  one  man  accuse  another  falsely  of  stealing,  he  must  give 
him  as  compensation  what  he  accused  him  of  stealing. 

Should  a man  find  anything  on  the  road,  and  without  telling 
take  it  for  himself,  he  must  be  fined  double  its  value  ; but  should 
he  tell,  he  receives  one-third  the  value.  Should  any  one  recover 
stolen  property,  but  not  be  able  to  catch  the  thief,  he  receives  half 
the  property  recovered. 

Should  any  one  find  a horse,  any  cattle,  yaks,  or  sheep,  and  keep 
them  for  a year  without  discovering  the  owner,  he  receives  one- 
fourth  the  value,  provided  he  has  not  in  the  meantime  used  the 
animals  for  his  own  benefit. 

Should  any  one  wound  a thief  he  is  not  fined. 

If  a thief  whilst  running  away  be  killed  by  an  arrow  or  stone, 
a small  fine  only  is  taken. 

Should  any  one,  having  caught  a thief,  kill  him,  he  is  fined  accord- 
ing to  the  law  of  murder.  The  reward  for  catching  a thief  is  from 
1 to  5 oz.  of  gold,  according  to  the  amount  of  the  property  stolen. 

No.  13.  Disputes  between  near  Relatives,  between  Man 
and  Wife,  and  between  Neighbours  who  have  Things  in 
Common 

If  a husband  wishes  to  be  separated  from  his  wife,  he  must  pay 
her' from  18  zho,  the  amount  varying  in  accordance  with  the  length 
of  time  they  have  been  married. 

318 


APPENDIX  II 


If  the  wife  wishes  to  leave  her  husband,  she  must  pay  him 
12  zho  and  one  suit  of  clothes.  The  wife,  on  separation,  also 
receives  the  clothes  given  to  her  at  her  marriage,  a list  of  which 
is  always  taken,  or  its  equivalent  in  money. 

Should  there  be  children,  the  father  takes  the  boys  and  the 
mother  the  girls,  the  father  paying  from  5 to  15  zho  for  each  son, 
called  the  price  of  milk.  If  the  woman  has  committed  no  fault 
she  receives  her  ornaments. 

Should  a family  wish  to  separate,  a list  of  the  whole  property 
should  be  taken  and  it  should  be  divided  according  to  circum- 
stances. The  father  and  mother  are  asked  with  whom  they  would 
like  to  live,  and  if  there  is  any  dispute  lots  are  drawn.  The  married 
children’s  property  is  first  separated  from  the  rest,  and  if  any 
children  are  going  to  school  their  expenses  must  be  taken  from  the 
whole  before  decision. 

No.  14.  Adultery  or  taking  another’s  Wife 

The  old  law  runs  that  if  any  one  takes  a Raja’s  or  lama’s  wife 
he  may  be  banished  or  have  his  hands  cut  off.  For  violating  a 
woman  of  different  position  3 oz.  of  gold  have  to  be  paid  to  the 
woman’s  relations,  and  4 gold  srang  to  Government,  besides  many 
things  in  kind. 

For  violation  of  a woman  of  the  same  position  2 or  3 gold  srang 
and  several  kinds  of  articles  have  to  be  paid. 

If  the  woman  goes  of  her  own  accord  to  the  man  he  has  only 
to  pay  1 gold  srang  and  three  kinds  of  articles. 

Should  one  man’s  wife  entice  another  married  man  to  go  with 
her,  she  has  to  pay  seven  things  in  kind. 

Should  a man  and  a woman  cohabit  on  a journey  there  is  no 
fine. 

No.  15.  Law  of  Contract 

Should  any  one  take  a loan  of  cattle,  yaks,  sheep,  &c.,  and 
they  die  in  his  charge,  he  must  pay  for  them.  Should  they  die 
one  night  after  being  returned,  it  is  the  owner’s  loss.  If  they  die 
before  midnight  of  the  night  they  are  returned  the  borrower  has 
to  pay. 

Should  a horse  die  from  a wound  whilst  on  loan,  one-fourth  to 
one-third  its  value  will  have  to  be  paid. 

Should  any  one,  having  made  an  agreement  to  take  anything, 
refuse  to  take  it,  the  articles  being  good,  he  must  pay  one-fourth 
3i9 


APPENDIX  II 

of  the  value.  If  there  be  any  mistake  in  an  account,  it  can  be 
rectified  up  to  one  year. 

No.  16.  For  Uncivilised  People 

These  laws  apply  only  to  such  uncivilised  people  as  Bhuteas, 
Lepchas,  Mongolians,  who  know  no  law ; therefore  what  is  written 
below  is  not  required  in  Tibet.  The  Mongolians  also  have  their 
law,  written  by  Raja  Kesar,  of  which  we  know  little. 

Any  Government  messenger  must  be  supplied  with  what  he 
wants  (such  as  horses,  food,  &c.),  and  if  not  provided  he  can  take 
them.  Also  whilst  halting  he  must  be  supplied  with  food  and  fire. 
But  the  messenger  must  not  draw  his  sword  or  use  his  bow,  or  he 
will  be  liable  to  a fine,  and  he  must  only  take  what  is  necessary 
to  the  performance  of  the  Government  work. 


MARRIAGE  CUSTOMS  AMONGST  THE  SIKHIMESE, 
TIBETANS,  AND  BHUTANESE 

These  customs  have  been  gathered  from  actual  observation, 
and  are  those  now  observed  by  the  people. 

If  the  eldest  brother  takes  a wife  she  is  common  to  all  his 
brothers. 

If  the  second  brother  takes  a wife  she  is  common  to  all  the 
brothers  younger  than  himself. 

The  eldest  brother  is  not  allowed  to  cohabit  with  the  wives  of 
the  younger  brothers. 

Should  there  be  children  in  the  first  case,  the  children  are  named 
after  the  eldest  brother,  whom  they  call  father ; in  the  second  case, 
after  the  second  brother,  and  so  on. 

Three  brothers  can  marry  three  sisters,  and  all  the  wives  be  in 
common,  but  this  is  not  very  often  met  with.  In  such  a case  the 
children  of  the  eldest  girl  belong  to  the  eldest  brother,  of  the  second 
to  the  second,  and  of  the  third  to  the  third,  if  they  each  bear  children. 
Should  one  or  more  not  bear  children,  then  the  children  are  appor- 
tioned by  arrangement.  Two  men  not  related  can  have  one  wife 
in  common,  but  this  arrangement  is  unusual. 

The  marriage  ceremony  consists  almost  entirely  in  feasting, 
which  takes  place  after  the  usual  presents  have  been  given  to  the 
girl’s  relations.  These  presents  constitute  the  woman’s  price,  and 
vary  in  accordance  with  the  circumstances  of  both  parties. 

320 


APPENDIX  II 


The  only  religious  ceremony  is  performed  by  the  village  head- 
man, who  offers  up  a bowl  of  murwa  to  the  gods,  and,  presenting  a 
cup  of  the  same  murwa  to  the  bride  and  bridegroom,  blesses  them, 
and  hopes  the  union  may  be  a fruitful  one.  Lamas  take  no  part 
in  the  ceremony. 

The  marriage  tie  is  very  light,  and  can  be  dissolved  at  any  time 
by  either  the  man  or  the  woman. 

A man  may  marry  his  mother’s  brother’s  daughter,  but  he  can 
marry  none  of  his  other  first  cousins  till  the  second  generation. 

The  law  of  succession  seems  to  be  generally,  though  not  always, 
as  follows  : 

1.  Son. 

2.  Grandson,  through  the  male  line. 

3.  Brother  by  same  mother. 

Father’s  brother’s  son  'i 
Father’s  sister’s  son  , 


by  choice. 


Mother’s  brother’s  son 
Mother’s  sister’s  son 


5.  If  a man  leaves  only  distant  relatives,  they  receive  a portion,  a 
portion  also  going  to  the  lamas,  and  the  remainder  to  Government. 

6.  If  a man  dies  without  relatives,  a sufficient  amount  for  funeral 
expenses  goes  to  the  lamas,  and  the  remainder  to  Government. 


321 


x 


APPENDIX  III 

A LIST  OF  SOME  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  ANIMALS  AND  BIRDS 
TO  BE  FOUND  IN  THESE  COUNTRIES,  AND  THEIR 
HABITAT 

Elephants. — Along  the  lower  hills  and  in  the  Duars,  penetrating 
in  the  rainy  season  into  the  hills  to  an  elevation  of  11,000  feet. 

Rhino. — In  a few  of  the  lower  valleys  of  Bhutan,  but  not  common. 
Bison. — In  the  lower  valleys  and  outer  hills  of  Bhutan. 
Mythun. — Do.  do. 

Tiger. — In  all  the  outer  hills  and  valleys,  and  occasionally  in  the 
lower  valleys  up  to  9000  feet. 

Common  Leopard. — Throughout  the  hills  up  to  an  elevation  of 
8000  feet. 

Clouded  Leopard. — At  elevations  from  4000  feet  to  6000  feet. 
Snow  Leopard. — Rare,  and  only  met  with  at  high  elevations  above 

11.000  feet. 

Black  Leopard. — Rare,  but  met  with  in  the  dense  jungles  at 
elevations  of  3000  feet  to  4000  feet. 

Lynx. — Rare ; only  at  high  elevations  bordering  on  Tibet  over 

16.000  feet. 

Wolf. — Do.  do. 

Jackal. — Has  been  imported  from  the  plains  of  India,  and  is 
occasionally  seen  as  high  as  6000  feet. 

Wild  Dog. — Not  very  common,  but  is  met  with  in  packs  between 
the  plains  and  a height  of  6000  feet.  There  is  said  to  be  a second 
species,  but  I have  never  met  with  it. 

Shau  ( Cervus  afjines). — Inhabits  a tract  to  the  north-east  of 
the  Chumbi  Valley. 

Sambur. — In  all  the  lower  hills. 

Cheetah. — Do.  do. 

Hcg-deer. — Do.  do. 


322 


APPENDIX  III 

Barking  Deer. — Throughout  the  hills  up  to  an  elevation  of  9000 
feet. 

Musk  Deer.— In  the  higher  valleys  at  an  elevation  of  11,000  feet. 

Goral. — Throughout  the  hills  at  an  elevation  of  4000  feet  to  8000 
feet. 

Serow. — Throughout  the  hills  at  elevations  from  4000  feet  to  9000 
feet. 

Thar. — Somewhat  rare ; at  elevations  from  6000  feet  to  14,000  feet. 

Takin  ( Budorcas  taxicolor  Whitei). — Very  rare;  only  occasionally 
in  Bhutan,  at  elevations  from  12,000  feet  upwards. 

Tibetan  Gazelle. — At  elevations  of  from  17,000  feet  to  19,000  feet 
in  a few  of  the  higher  valleys  opening  into  Tibet. 

Nyen  ( Ovis  ammon). — Only  found  on  very  high  ground  on  the 
borders  of  Tibet,  from  17,000  feet  upwards. 

Nao,  or  Burhel  ( Ovis  nahura). — Throughout  the  hills  at  high 
elevations  from  16,000  feet  upwards. 

Kyang. — Very  rare ; at  high  elevations  on  the  borders  of  Tibet. 

Bear. — Three  species,  one  inhabiting  high  altitudes  from  11,000 
feet  to  12,000  feet;  the  common  black  bear,  found  every  where,  from 
6000  feet  downwards  ; and  a third  species,  also  said  to  be  common, 
inhabiting  the  lower  valleys. 

Monkeys. — Three  species,  one  inhabiting  the  slopes  near  the 
plains,  one  at  an  elevation  from  3000  feet  to  6000  feet,  and  the 
langur,  found  from  7000  feet  to  12,000  feet. 

Cat-bear. — Not  uncommon  at  elevations  from  7000  feet  to  12,000 
feet. 

Cats. — Many  species,  which  inhabit  the  dense  jungle  all  along 
the  hills. 


Game-birds 

Jungle  Fowl. — Throughout  the  hills,  up  to  4000  feet. 

Kelij  Pheasant. — Throughout  the  hills  at  elevations  of  2000  feet 
to  4000  feet. 

Tragopan,  or  Argus  Pheasant. — Throughout  the  hills  at  elevations 
of  7000  feet  to  9000  feet. 

Blood  Pheasant. — In  the  Sikhim  hills  and  in  Western  Bhutan  at 
9000  feet  to  13,000  feet. 

Monal. — Throughout  the  hills  at  elevations  of  9000  feet  to 
15,000  feet. 

Wood  Partridge. — There  are  two  species,  distinguished  only  by 
a white  marking  on  the  neck  and  a slight  difference  in  size.  Found 

323 


APPENDIX  III 

throughout  the  hills  in  dense  bamboo  jungle  at  5000  feet  to  8000 
feet. 

Snow  Partridge. — Throughout  the  hills  above  15,000  feet. 

Snow  Cock. — Do.  do. 

Woodcock. — In  the  cold  season  in  the  middle  valleys  and  in 
summer  in  the  higher  valleys,  but  not  above  13,000  feet. 

Solitary  Snipe. — In  wet,  marshy  ground  above  11,000  feet. 

Ram  Chicoor. — Throughout  the  hills  at  elevations  above  14,000 
feet. 

Tibetan  Sand  Grouse. — Along  the  Tibetan  boundary  above  17,000 
feet. 

Quail. — Found  in  cornfields  in  Bhutan  at  9000  feet  in  May 
and  June. 

Partridge. — Only  a few  at  high  elevations. 

Duck. — Cold-weather  visitors.  Only  a very  few  breed  on  the 
higher  lakes. 

Geese. — Do.  do. 

Snipe. — Do.  do. 

Pigeons. — Imperial,  snow,  blue  rock,  and  many  species  of  wood 
pigeons  are  found  throughout  both  countries. 


324 


APPENDIX  IV 


DESCRIPTIONS  OF  THE  ART  SPECIMENS  ILLUSTRATED 
IN  CHAPTER  XXIII 

Plate  I 

i.  Pierced  copper-gilt  ornaments  used  with  a rice  puja  (Bhutan). 
-2.  Copper  teapot,  with  silver  mounts  (Bhutan). 

3.  Brass  purpa  or  demon  dagger  used  at  services  in  Northern 
Buddhist  monasteries  (Bhutan). 

4 and  9.  Wood,  silver,  and  silver-gilt  gyeling  (trumpets)  used  in 
temples  (Bhutan). 

5 . Dagger  with  open-work,  pierced,  and  embossed  silver  and  silver- 

gilt  sheath,  set  with  turquoise  (Bhutan). 

6.  Embossed  silver  and  silver-gilt  pan-box,  set  with  coral  and 

turquoise  (Bhutan). 

7.  Temple  bell,  cast  in  Bhutan. 

8.  Sword  with  silver  and  silver-gilt  scabbard,  and  silver-mounted 

leather  belt  with  silk  tassels  (Bhutan). 

10.  Wine-flask  made  from  a mythun  horn  mounted  in  copper 

(Bhutan). 

11.  Brass  dorji,  or  thunderbolt,  used  by  lamas  at  services  (Tibet). 

Plate  II 

1,  3,  5, 13.  Ginger-jars,  plate,  and  bottle  brought  from  Lhasa  (China). 
2 and  4.  Brass  cymbals  (Tibet). 

6.  Steel  helmet  (Bhutan). 

7 and  11.  Copper  embossed  ladles  used  to  pour  oil  on  bodies  during 
cremation  (Tibet). 

8.  Small  skull  drum  (Tibet). 

9.  Silver-gilt  hat  ornament,  set  with  turquoise  and  carbuncle 

(Shigatse,  Tibet). 


325 


APPENDIX  IV 

10.  Lacquer  cymbal-box,  with  copper  binding,  and  copper  and  iron 

fittings  (China). 

12  and  15.  Old  cloisonne  bowls  (China). 

14.  Carved  wooden  frame  for  a small  Buddha  (Tibet). 

Plate  III 

1 and  7.  Bair  of  iron  water-bottles,  inlaid  with  silver  (Tibet). 

2.  Small  brass  teapot  (Tibet). 

3.  Copper-gilt  Urn  of  Life  used  for  puja  (Tibet). 

4.  Teapot  (Sikhim). 

5 and  15.  Copper-gilt  images  of  Buddha  (Tibet). 

6.  Brass  box  for  jade  teacup  (Tibet). 

8.  Hand-bell  (Tibet). 

9.  Copper  dorji,  or  thunderbolt  (Tibet). 

10  and  21.  Bell-metal  cymbals  (Tibet). 

11.  Carved,  gilt,  and  coloured  book-back  (Tibet). 

12  and  22.  Silver  altar  butter-lamps  (Tibet). 

13.  Enamel  box  (China). 

14,  16,  18,  and  20.  Part  of  a set  of  Tashi  Tagye,  in  copper-gilt, 

used  at  puja  (Tibet). 

17.  Temple  bell  (Tibet). 

19.  Brass  spectacle-case  (Tibet). 

23.  Jade  teacup  with  silver  cover  and  stand  (Tibet). 

Plate  IV 

1.  Copper-gilt  Urn  of  Life  (Bhutan). 

2.  Long-stemed  porcelain  teacup  in  copper-gilt  stand  (Tibet). 

4.  Teapot  in  copper-gilt,  with  silver  mounts  set  with  small  turquoise 

(Tibet). 

10.  Copper-gilt  rice  offering-box  (Tibet). 

(Nos.  2,  4,  and  10  belonged  to  the  late  Regent  of  Tibet,  and  were 
sold  on  his  downfall.) 

3.  Silver  amulet-case  (Bhutan). 

5.  Silver  prayer-wheel  (Sikhim). 

6.  Silver  bowl  used  to  receive  grease  off  buttered  tea  (Tibet). 

7.  Glass  bowl  (Tibet). 

8.  Skull  rice-bowl,  with  silver  stand  and  cover  (Sikhim). 

9.  Copper-gilt  amulet-case  (Tibet). 

11.  Silver  amulet-case  (Tibet). 

12.  Carved  and  painted  wooden  table  (Sikhim). 

326 


SIKIIIM  AND  BHUTAN 


WITH  PARTS  OF  ADJACENT  COUNTRIES 


INDEX 


Achi-pipa,  152 
Aloo  Dorji,  132,  133 
Amban,  32 

Ambari  Falakata,  274,  276,  277 
Am-mo-chhu,  3,  4,  5,  115 
Andu-choling,  168,  170 
Angdu-phodang,  116, 132,  138,  151, 
152,  172 

Arun  Singh,  274 
Auckland,  271 

Ba-chhu,  153 
Bagh,  269 
Bailey,  94,  210,  213 
Bala  Pass,  279 
Bam-tsho,  90 
Banksa,  269 
Bara,  269,  279,  280 
Barshong,  177 
Be,  64 
Beila,  6 
Beila-jong,  160 
Bell,  96 
Bhulka,  269 

Bhutan,  113,  134,  138,  &c. 

Bhutanese,  133,  135 

Bhuteas,  9 

Biafu-la,  5 

Bijni,  269 

Bijni  Raja,  267 

Black  Mountain,  5 

Blake,  254 

Bod-la,  198 

Bogle,  12,  237,  238,  239,  240,  241, 
242,  243,  253,  265,  266,  267,  288, 
289 

Booree  Goomah,  269 
Buddha,  137 


Buddh  Gaya,  50,  175 
Budorcas  taxicolor  Whitei,  234 
Buxa,  139,  231,  269 

Cameron,  279 
Cam  obeli,  94,  21  r,  283 
Campbell,  Col.,  278 
Campbell,  Dr.,  272 
Canning,  275 
Canton,  137 

Chalimaphe,  131,  132,  220 
I Chalu-chhu,  113 
Chamka-chhu,  162 
Champa  Lhakhang  Monastery,  166, 
168 

Chamurchi,  269,  278,  279,  280 
| Cha-na-na,  120 
Chandenbi,  155,  171 
Chapakha,  153 
Chappagorie,  269 
Chappakumar,  269 
Chebu  Lama,  257,  261,  2 77 
Cheri  Monastery,  177 
Cherring,  269 
Chetang,  202 
Cheungtong,  80 
Chiabanjan-la,  4 
Chichacotta,  264 
Chien  Lung,  285 
China,  133,  285,  286,  287,  288 
Chinese,  133,  137 
Chiu-li-la,  5 
j Cho-la,  4 
I Cholamo  Lakes,  74 
I Choley  Tulku,  42 
Chongdu  Gompa,  153 
i Chophey  Namgyel,  17 
I Chumbi  Valley,  1,  3,  32,  296 
327 


INDEX 


Chumbo,  210 
Chumik  Gompa,  168 
Chomolhari,  90,  115,  145,  178,  179 
Chungkhar,  187,  188 
Churkolla,  269 

Dalhousie,  273 
Daling,  258,  278 
Dalingkote,  269,  292 
Damsong,  278 
Damtheng,  116 
Damthong,  116 
Dang-la,  6 
Darendra,  293 
Darjeeling,  1,  4,  257 
Darrang,  270 
Davis,  250 
Deb,  139,  240 
Deb  Jeedhur,  289,  290,  291 
Deb  Nagpo,  132 

Deb  Raja,  139,  141,  142,  151,  153, 
174,  238,  239,  240 
Deb  Sangye,-i52 
Debung,  28 

Deb  Zimpon,  141,  174,  176,  221 
Dechen-phodang,  135,  165,  176 
Dechenphuk,  177 
Dejong,  16 
Dekila,  204 
Delai  Lama,  148 
Demri-chhu,  188 
De-si-sangye  Gya-tsho,  311 
Dewangiri,  184,  186,  277,  278 
Dharma  Raja,  135,  139,  142,  177, 
226 

Dhubri,  184 
Diboo,  34,  78 

Dokyong-la,  5,  138,  173,  221 
Dong-la,  195 

Dongma-chhu,  6,  113,  187 
Dongna-jong,  233,  278 
Dongo-la,  194 
Dong  Shima,  184 
Donkhar,  194 
Donkia-la,  4,  74,  84 
Dorunga,  184 
Dover,  84,  95,  184,  192 
Dow  Penjo,  123 
Dozam-la,  191 


! Dubdi  Monastery,  53 
Dug-gye-jong,  117,  120,  129,  144, 
152,  213,  216 
Dunsford,  277,  279 
Durand,  256,  257 
Durkey  Sirdar,  85,  86 
! Durunder  Narain,  264 

j Eden,  12,  125,  241,  244,  255,  257, 
258,  259,  276,  277,  280 
Edgar,  283 
Entchi  Kazi,  26 
J Everest,  84 

Falakata,  272,  276,  293 
I Freshfield,  95 

Gang-chung-Dorona,  138 
j Gangtak,  16,  20,  28,  33,  53,  81 
Gangyul,  180 
Gauhati,  184 
Gautsa,  212 
Gau-Zangpo,  131,  132 
Ghassa,  179,  180 
Ghassa-la,  133 
I Giaogong,  75,  83,  86 
Giucha-la,  55,  69 
j Ging-la,  194 
Goalpara,  1 
I Gom  Kora,  192 
Goomar,  269 
j Gorina,  121 
Gough,  277 
Grant,  Sir  J.  P.,  275 
Griffiths,  10,  162,  163,  165,  254 
Guru  Lhakhang,  167 
Gyaltsap-Tenzing,  288 
I Gyamtso-na,  86 
Gyantse,  210 
Gya-tsa,  161 

Hah,  3 

Hah-chhu,  3,  117 

Hah  Jongpen,  117 

Hah-la,  115,  116 

Hah-pa,  113 

Hah  Zimpon,  116 

Halliday,  Sir  F.,  274 

Hamilton,  241,  243,  250,  265,  267 


INDEX 


Hastings,  Warren,  237,  238,  239, 
240,  241,  242,  265,  266,  289 
Hastings  House,  49 
Henderson,  109 
Hickley,  95 
Hodges,  95 
Hoffmann,  63,  67 
Hooker,  17 
Hopkinson,  275 
Homa  Della  Penna,  288 
Hr  am,  182 

Hyslop,  51,  211,  212,  220,  232,  263, 
283 

Iggulden,  82,  83,  84,  85,  89 

Jaigaon,  235 
Jalpaiguri,  1,  275,  277 
Jenkins,  271,  272,  273 
Jerung  Denjung,  61 
Jeylap-la,  4,  115 
Jigme  Namgyal,  132 
Jongri,  54 
Jongsa,  292 

Kabru,  56 
Kagyur,  311 
Kala-tsho,  1,  4,  210 
Railing,  269 
Kamrup,  1 
Kangchenjhau,  75 
Kangchenjunga,  3,  33,  56,  92 
Kang-la,  197,  198 
Kar-chhu  Pass,  6 
Karponang,  21 1 
Kartok  Lama,  19 
Katmandu,  267,  300 
Katzog  Kazi,  213 
Keepo,  269 

Khamba-jong,  76,  84,  87 
Kham-Mina-Andong,  16 
Khangsa  Dewan,  19,  20,  26 
Kholung-chhu,  192 
Khoma-chhu,  195 
Khomteng  Lhakhang,  201 
Khye  Bumsu,  16 
Ki-ki-la,  162 
Kulu-Kangri,  145,  173 
Kun-ga-gyal-tsan,  311 


Kun-yang  Namgyal,  124 
Kurseong,  25 

Kuru-chhu,  3,  6,  194,  195,  201 
Kuru  Sampa,  195 
Kutzab  Lobzang  Tenzing,  31 
Kya-la,  113 

Lachen,  70,  83,  193 
Lachung,  74,  79,  81,  296 
Lachung  Monastery,  195 
Lamteng,  74,  83,  193 
Langmarpu-chhu,  113 
Langpo-chhu,  92 
Lari  Pema,  26 
Lepcha,  7 

Lhakhang,  196,  198,  199,  202 

Lhasa,  285,  286 

Lhuntsi,  194 

Lingshi-la,  182 

Lingtu,  18 

Lingzi,  179 

Lloyd,  17 

Lobrak,  3 

Lome-la,  5,  234 

Lonak,  63,  70 

Lung,  207 

Lungna-la,  70 

Lungri  Sampa,  113 

I Macaulay,  18 
Macdonald,  282 
Macgregor,  251 
Madu-chhu,  46,  156 
| Maharaj  Kumar,  95 
Malcaster,  277,  278,  279 
Manning,  237 
Marco  Polo,  137 
Markham,  237,  267 
Massong-chung-dong,  5,  115 
Memo-Tashi  Kyeden,  168 
Meru-la,  115 
Metsephu,  198 
Migyur  Tempa,  291 
Millett,  297 
Minto,  96 

Mo-chhu,  45,  149,  150,  173 
Moinam,  5 

Momay  Samdung,  76 
Monass,  4,  5 


Y 


INDEX 


Morgan,  213 
Moti  Ram,  34 
Mug,  202 

Murray,  82,  85,  86 
Mynaguri,  278 

Nagartsi,  202 

Naguchi  Raja,  167 

Nangna-la,  90 

Nari,  153 

Natu-la,  4 

Nelung,  210 

Nepal,  290 

Ninser  Tulku,  149 

Norbugang,  138,  144,  146,  148 

Norbu  Sring,  204 

Nyalamdung,  196 

Nyeru-chhu,  208,  209 

O’Connor,  50,  51,  94 

Paharias,  9 
Pakhyong,  19,  22 
Pami-la,  160 
Pangkha,  196 
Pangri-sampi-gnatsa,  176 
Panhunri,  84,  89 
Par-chhu,  3 

Paro,  3,  117,  134,  144,  219 
Paro  Donyer,  123 

Paro  Penlop,  131,  133,  160,  257, 
287 

Paro  Ta-tshang  Monastery,  128,  216 
Patan,  300 

Paul,  17,  19,  140,  146,  151,  157, 
166,  172,  262,  282,  288 
Pearse,  77 
Pekin,  250,  287 
Pele-la,  155,  172 
Pema,  32 

Pemberton,  158,  170,  196,  241,  253, 
289 

Pemi-chhu,  130 
Pemiongtchi  Monastery,  53 
Penchen  Rimpochi,  237,'  243,  289 
Penchoo  Namgyel,  16 
Phaju-ding,  135 
Phallut,  4,  75 


I Phari,  116,  117,  160,  183,  212,  213 
Phodong  Lama,  20,  21,  26,  28,  40, 
79 

Pho-mo-chang-thang,  207,  210 
Poonakha,  132,  134,  144,  146,  150, 
164,  165,  176 
Poonakha  Jongpen,  133 
j Poorbu  Dewan,  20,  21,  26 
I Potala,  124 
Power,  258 
Pumthang,  34 
Purangir  Gosain,  253,  267 
Purboo,  61 

| Radong-la,  6,  146 
, Rai  Lobzang  Choden  Sahib,  105, 

14L  213 

| Rai  Ugyen  Dorji  Bahadur,  113, 
120,  165,  219,  281 
! Rajendra  Narayan,  23 
Ram  Narayan,  293 
I Rampini,  291 
Rangpur,  239 
Ratsowok,  154 
Raydak,  3 

Rennick,  51,  140,  141,  172,  210, 
212,  213,  232,  262,  263,  282,  283 
Rham-tsho,  210 
Rhenok,  19 
Rhenok  Kazi,  26 
Ridha,  154,  172 
Rimpi-chhu,  65 
Rinchen  Dolma,  122 
Rinchengong,  116 
Ringen,  3,  63 
Rokubi,  155,  171 
! Rubdentze,  17 
t Rungeet,  3 
Rungnu-chhu,  3,  57 
Ryder,  209 

j Sagang,  208 
Sakya,  16 
! Samtengang,  172 
Samtsi,  278 
Sandukphu, 4 
! Sangbay,  292 
; Sang-chu-cho-khor,  129 
330 


INDEX 


Sanklan  Sampo,  64 
Sankos,  4 

Santa  Narayan  Nazir  Deo,  292 
Sarat  Chunder  Das,  205 
Saunders,  256 
Senchu-la,  113 
Sera,  28 

Shabdung  Rimpochi,  124,  147, 152, 
153.  158 

Shalaptsa-la,  195 
Shoe  Dewan,  20,  21,  26 
Sibu-la,  75 

Sikhim,  16,  45,  67,  95,  292,  293, 
294,  295,  297,  3 11 
Siliguri,  28 
Siniolchu,  59,  67 
Simpson,  257,  276 
Simtoka,  131,  132,  137,  173,  176 
Simvoo,  59 

Singhi-jong,  194,  195,  197 
Singli-la,  4 
Sipchu,  113,  258 
So-na-ga-sa,  150 
Srongtsan  Gompo,  302 
Subadar  Jehandad  Khan,  140 
Suckee,  269 
Swayambunath,  156 

Taga-la,  5 

Taka  Penlop,  141,  148 
Takphu-chhu,  113 
Tak-kyun  Gompa,  118 
Ta-la,  207 

Ta-lo,  138,  144,  146,  147 
Talung,  65 
Tang-chhu,  153,  154 
Tango,  150 

Tango  Lama,  149,  150,  225 
Tashi-cho-jong,  3,  134,  137,  165, 
166,  167,  199 
Tashigong,  189,  190,  194 
Tashi  Lama,  50 
Tashi  Lhunpo,  88 
Tashiling,  156 
Tashi-yangtsi,  194 
Tassi thing,  20,  26 
Tassisudon,  125 
Ta-tshang,  132,  139 
Ta-tshang  Khenpo,  224 


Ta-tshang  Nunnery,  87 
Tawang,  1,  4,  202 
Taylor,  31,  32 
Tayo-jong,  127,  160 
Tchin-chhu,  130,  131,  134 
Teble,  91 
Teesta,  1,  3,  4,  64 
Temba-chhu,  77 
Temo-la,  5,  213 
Tenzing  Namgyel,  17 
Teo-pe-rong-chhu,  113,  138 
Thaling  Monastery,  168 
Thangu,  73,  74,  83 
Thanka-la,  4 

Thimbu  Jongpen,  132,  135,  148, 
149,  151,  163,  173,  176,  179,  181 
Thotab  Namgyel,  22 
Tibet,  113,  208,  238,  243,  288 
Tibetans,  133,  134 
Tod,  101 
Tombs,  280 

Tongsa,  144,  156,  161,  162,  171 
Tongsa  Donyer,  152,  165 
Tongsa  Penlop,  50,  130,  132,  139, 
141,  220,  278,  280,  287 
Tongsa’s  sister,  166,  168 
Tongsa  Zimpon,  159 
Torsa,  3 
Trood,  235 
Tsang-chhu,  173 
Tsedun  Tenzing  Wangpo,  31 
Tshang-kha,  156 
Tsha-za-la,  154 
Tshona,  194 
Tumlong,  82 

Turner,  12,  125,  128,  150,  153,  249, 
250,  251,  253,  255 
Tusum  Mani,  197 
Tuwa-jong,  203 
Tytler,  279,  280 
Tzenguikang,  69 

U Depon,  31 

Ugyen  Wang-chuk,  Sir,  13,  15,  131, 
132,  134,  142,  157,  158,  160,  162, 
163,  164,  166,  168,  170,  172,  173, 
176,  185,  199,  206,  228,  281,  283 
Ugyen  Zangmo,  122 


331 


INDEX 


Viceroy,  15  i 

Waddell,  14 
Wagya-la,  209 
Wandipore,  151,  152,  167 
Wang-chhu,  35 
Wong-du-choling,  168 
Wang-tung,  194 
Watson,  279 
Wilton,  21 1 

Yac-cha,  79 
Yak-la,  4 
Yamdok-tsho,  210 
Yatung,  8,  31 


Yee-Shan,  31 

Ye-la,  196 

Yeum-tsho,  87 

Yeum-tsho-la,  68 

Yo-to-la,  6,  161,  170,  188,  189 

Younghusband,  282 


Zadu-la,  5 
Zamtu-chhu,  67 
Zemri-gatchie,  150 
Zemu  Glacier,  68 
Zemu  River,  68 
Zemu  Valley,  68 
Zumerkote,  269 


THE  END 


Printed  by  Ballantyne  &■*  Co.  Limited 
Tavistock  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London 


✓ 


DATE  DUE 


